baselworld enters a brand new dimension - MCH Group

EDITORIAL

25. THURSDAY, APRIL

HIGHLIGHTS

06 PURE SWISS WATCHMAKING On behalf of all the exhibitors at BASELWORLD, I would like to cordially welcome you to the world’s most important watch and jewellery show – an event which brings us all together from year to year. I can assure you that we are especially proud to welcome you to this particular edition of BASELWORLD, which is bound to remain in our memories for a long time to come. Over the next eight days, on elegant new stands in the Halls of BASELWORLD, all the world’s eminent and leading watch and jewellery brands will be showcasing their exceptional products and unveiling future trends in both sectors. Together with the Show Management team, we have done everything possible to ensure that the new building meets the requirements of the exhibitors, offering them an ideal setting to present their products. We are convinced that BASELWORLD 2013 will meet your highest expectations and will generate a positive economic impact. It is a great honour for me to invite you to make the most of the unique opportunities offered by BASELWORLD.

08 A GRAND ENTRANCE BASELWORLD’s festive opening act drew the attention of the international media.

BASELWORLD ENTERS A BRAND NEW DIMENSION THE OPENING OF THE NEW HALLS MARKS A MILESTONE IN THE SHOW’S HISTORY by Axel Henselder

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he completely redesigned world show for watches and jewellery, BASELWORLD, opens its doors today. “The new Hall is a truly impressive calling card,” said René Kamm, MCH Group’s CEO, at the opening press conference yesterday, adding: “And the exhibitors are filling this magnificent framework with life. With their new stands, the majority of which are also larger, they are presenting their brands and products

Jacques J. Duchêne President of the Exhibitors’ Committee

Sascha Moeri, CEO Carl F. Bucherer

even more impressively than before, lending the show an unprecedented radiance.” Over 1,000 stands were redesigned especially for the premiere in the spectacular structure, which was designed by the Basel architects Herzog & de Meuron. Sylvie Ritter, Managing Director of BASELWORLD, said: “This year’s edition of the world show for watches and jewellery represents a further milestone in the history of BASELWORLD. Thanks to the investments of our exhibitors, BASELWORLD is

set to be even more of a globally unique show experience.” Jacques J. Duchêne, President of the Exhibitors’ Committee, said: “With the new buildings and infrastructure we are orientating ourselves to the future. In this way we are safeguarding the significance of BASELWORLD as the leading show in the sector.” This year sees 1,460 companies exhibiting. More than 100,000 trade visitors from all around the world are expected to attend the key trade event of the year.

The Movado Group presents a striking new exhibition space. CEO Efraim Grinberg has details.

22 EXCELLENT OPPORTUNITIES

Rado’s Matthias Breschan talks about the brand’s innovations and new markets.

26 FASHION-FORWARD TIMEKEEPING

Sequel’s Cindy Livingston introduces the new Guess and Gc collections.

49 INSPIRED BY TRADITION

New Carrera y Carrera CEO Svetlana Kuprinova discusses the brand’s eastern focus.

78 THE NEW HALL 3 IS GEMTASTIC! Visitors can see really big

and beautiful gems in the new hall 3.

THE KEY TO SUCCESS PATEK PHILIPPE IS PRESENTING ABOUT 40 NEW MODELS FOR MEN AND WOMEN

HEARD IN BASEL “BASELWORLD brings together watchmaking professionals from every corner of the globe, a place where business relationships begin and lifelong connections are forged.”

Bucherer celebrates its 125th anniversary in 2013. CEO Sascha Moeri talks about value and heritage.

Interview by Iris Wimmer-Olbort

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he traditional manufacturer from Geneva demonstrates, once again, understatement and elegance at BASELWORLD. New models expand the great classical collections of the brand. Patek Philippe is also preparing for its 175th anniversary next year.

Thierry Stern, Patek Philippe President.

BWDN: The new watches prove that you carefully expand the collection. Which one is the most important to you? Thierry Stern: As every year it is important for me to make all our

collections evolve; the key to our success is in meeting the taste of all our clients, collectors, newcomers, and so on. In 2013 we are presenting about 40 new models, including a new complicated movement with an eight-day power reserve in the men’s Art Deco-inspired Gondolo line. I am also very proud about a new Calatrava case model that took about two years to create. The ultrathin dust-cover case has a totally concealed hinge, a real case “complication.”

How about ladies? What can they expect in 2013? We are presenting new models in our classic lines and our elegant sports lines, as well as in the complications lines. We know ladies love to have a wide choice. Patek Philippe will celebrate its 175th anniversary in 2014. What are the plans for next year? We will celebrate our anniversary at BASELWORLD 2014 with a new stand. In terms of new products it remains a secret. 1.0, D11

CONSTANT ESCAPEMENT ThE high-TECh rEvOluTiON iN MOTiON White gold case, screw-down case back, girard-Perregaux manual mechanical movement, hour, minute, central second, linear power reserve.

A rEvOluTiONAry CONCEPT AddrESSiNg A hOly grAil Of WATChMAkiNg, CONSTANT fOrCE. A brEAkThrOugh iN ThE fiEld Of ChrONOMETry WiTh A COMPlETEly NEW ArChiTECTurE ANd dESigN Of ThE ESCAPEMENT

www.girard-perregaux.com

06 WATCHES THURSDAY, APRIL 25.2013

CONTENTS

CARL F. BUCHERER REVELS IN HISTORY NEW TIMEPIECES COMMEMORATE BUCHERER’S 125 YEARS OF BUSINESS AND GROWTH

01 WATCHES

Interview by Elizabeth Doerr

06 Carl F. Bucherer / Chopard / TAG Heuer 08 Movado / Girard-Perregaux 10 Large Date / Hermès 17 Maurice Lacroix / Chronoswiss / Jeanrichard 20 Jacob & Co. / Oris 22 Rado / L.Leroy 26 Guess / Citizen 28 Versace / Aerowatch 30 High-end Designers / Sinn 34 Cover / Nixon 37 Escada / Festina 38 Police / Swatch 43 MB&F / Ressence

Sascha Moeri, CEO Carl F. Bucherer.

How do these products compare with those 125 years ago? Our products today still draw on the components, philosophy and engineering created by our predecessors. This foundation is the essence of pure Swiss watchmaking and will remain so as we move into the future and merge modern technologies, design and expertise. With this rich tradition behind it and the jewellery-making expertise of 125 years, the brand will always retain the integrity, value and heritage the market demands of an authentic Swiss luxury watch brand.

02 MARKETS 44 Hong Kong 46 Swiss Watch Industry / Swatch Group

03 JEWELLERY 49 Carrera y Carrera / Meissen 50 Roberto Coin / Enchanting jewellery 52 Mikimoto / Mattioli 55 Choices by DL / Gucci 56 Tournaire / Scandinavian jewellery 58 Brumani / Schreiner 62 Leading Italian Jewels / Floral-inspired jewels 64 Ponte Vecchio Gioielli / Aaron Basha 67 Ti Sento / Exceptional jewellery 71 Colour Explosion

04 INNOVATIONS 72 Olympus / Edenta 75 Exhibitor statements

05 GEMSTONES 76 Falling for colour 78 The large and extraordinary / The new Hall 3 – “gemtastic” 81 The unveiling from Bayco

06 WORLD OF BASEL 82 Hall opening show 84 BASELWORLD App / Guided Tours

07 SERVICE 86 Floor plan / General information / Imprint An ePaper edition of the BASELWORLD Daily News is also available for download from www.baselworld.com

STAY UPDATED www.facebook.com/ baselworld www.twitter.com/ #baselworld www.weibo.com/ baselworld

occasion, we’ve created a set of limited editions: an exclusive Manero Tourbillon and a dazzling, jewelled Alacria piece, both strictly limited to 125 pieces. The Patravi TravelTec FourX is coming out in a rose gold version limited to 125 pieces, too. Over the course of the year, we’re planning a number of surprise launches in commemoration of our 125-year history.

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he history of Bucherer dates back to 1888, when Carl F. Bucherer opened his first watch retail business in Lucerne, Switzerland. The company has remained in the family to this day and is now owned by the third-generation, sole shareholder Jörg G. Bucherer, the founder’s grandson. Carl F. Bucherer CEO

Sascha Moeri reveals what’s coming to the party. BWDN: How is Carl F. Bucherer celebrating Bucherer’s 125th anniversary? Sascha Moeri: At BASELWORLD 2013 we celebrate the 125th anniversary of the year Carl F. Bucherer opened his first retail store in the very heart of Lucerne. To mark the

Carl F. Bucherer Technologies developed a unique calibre from the ground up, the CFB A1000 with a peripheral rotor. Are you planning any further developments in this direction? Since the launch of the CFB A1000, we’ve combined and further developed it with several modules that have practical functions, such as the unmistakable big date on the CFB A1001. The big date function is part of our brand’s genetic code as Carl F. Bucherer focused on big date dis-

plays as long ago as the late 1940s. I’m proud to say that further development at Carl F. Bucherer Technologies has ensured that it remains one-of-a-kind. Part of my strategy for the brand is to remain true to its purist essence. In keeping with that vision, we first unveil the Manero with our own CFB A1011 calibre: this has a fantastic power reserve function and fits in perfectly with our brand’s identity. We’re also fully committed to developing the CFB A2000 calibre and are looking into cooperation with other Swiss watch manufacturers. What emotions does BASELWORLD bring forth in you? The show is the original home of all true watch manufacturers. It’s the place where most of the industry’s vital decisions are made and is an opportunity for everyone involved in watchmaking to demonstrate the progress and advances they have made in the course of the year. It is also an event that brings together watchmaking professionals from every corner of the globe, a place where business relationships begin and lifelong connections – often friendships – are forged. BASELWORLD is a place we love to be: it provides us with an environment in which we feel comfortable and a platform upon which to present our products and ourselves as we really are. Carl F. Bucherer is proud to have a stunning new stand on the ground floor of the completely remodelled Hall 1.0. 1.0, C33

IN THE FAST LANE

ICONIC CARRERA

CHOPARD GETS INSPIRATION FROM THE WORLD OF AUTOMOBILE RACING

TAG HEUER INTRODUCES NEW VERSIONS TO CELEBRATE ITS ANNIVERSARY

by Sabine Zwettler

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ith the L.U.C Engine One H, Chopard again launches a timepiece that feels at home in the world of automobiles. Unlike its predecessors, the case of the Engine One H is rotated ninety degrees and measures 44.5 by 35 millimetres. Crafted from uncommonly lightweight titanium, the polished and brushed case surrounds the dial in the instrumental look of a Formula One racecar. The hours and minutes are displayed at the dial’s centre, a bowl-shaped power-reserve display is positioned at the “9” and a tourbillon with small seconds occupies the “3”. The “whirlwind” enhances the precision of chronometer-certified handwound calibre L.U.C 04.02-L, which has a frequency of 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour and

by Iris Wimmer-Olbort

L Chopard L.U.C Engine One H.

amasses a 60-hour power reserve. The alligator-leather wristband with five rows of decorative stitching is reminiscent of the upholstered seats in automobiles from the 1960s and 1970s. Only 100 specimens of this racer for the wrist will be built. 1.0, D15

egends live longer. The Carrera, a watch for professional race-car drivers, was created 50 years ago under Jack Heuer’ aegis. TAG Heuer commemorates the classic Carrera with the release of an anniversary model: the Carrera Calibre 1887 Jack Heuer Edition. It’s the highlight in a whole series of re-releases that wrote the history of the Carrera during the past five decades. Alongside the anniversary model in its titanium and stainless steel case with titanium carbide bezel, other new models are also joining the Carrera collection. Each is equipped with TAG Heuer’s own manufacture calibre 1887, a chronograph movement with built-in column-wheel, a balance paced at a frequency of 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour. 1.0, D01

TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 1887 Jack Heuer.

80 hours on your side

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NEWS

TRIPLY COMPLEX GIRARD-PERREGAUX DEMONSTRATES PROFOUND HOROLOGICAL EXPERTISE

ULYSSE NARDIN – The Carnival of Venice Minute Repeater depicts a rendition of the famous masked street carnival for which the city is famous. The actions of jaquemarts contribute to the narrative of the piece and in this case, the two masked figures depicted on the dial raise their masks in sync with chimes of the minute repeater. The dial is rendered in champlevé enamel over hand-engraved gold, creating an architectural scene. It will be made in a limited edition of 18 pieces in platinum and in 18K rose gold. It chimes hours, quarters and minutes on two chimes. (cb) 1.0, A39

HUBLOT spoils the ladies: the new Big Bang Caviar has a red gold or steel case with or without diamonds on its bezel. It appeals to aficionadas of mechanical watchmaking who don’t want to make do without a bit of glamour. Inspired by the Big Bang Black Caviar, which is made of black ceramic, these watches have an expressive look thanks to their textured design and the alternation between brushed and polished surfaces. Watertight to ten atmospheres, each of these Big Bang models has a 41 mm case and an automatic movement from Hublot. (sz) 1.0, A05

BLANCPAIN – The Chronograph Large Date features a two-tiered mother-of-pearl dial, inset with two lines of diamonds that separate the time display. The addition of a large, double-digit date display balances the dial composition. The bezel is also set for a total of 40 diamonds totalling 2.24 carats. It contains the Blancpain automatic calibre 26F8G, with a spectacular, petal-shaped, gold oscillating weight. (cb) 1.0, D19


Girard-Perregaux 1966.

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Efraim Grinberg, CEO of the Movado Group.

MOVADO GROUP STAYS TRUE TO ITS ROOTS EFRAIM GRINBERG SHARES INSIGHTS ON MOVADO AND EBEL Interview by Roberta Naas

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nspired by the new BASELWORLD build-up, the Movado Group has built a threestorey exhibition space to house all three of its luxury Swiss watch brands (Movado, Ebel, Concord). Additionally, the Movado Group is moving fully forward with exciting new product directions. BWDN: How has Movado Group as a whole fared this past year? Efraim Grinberg: Coming out of the recession in 2008, we took a deep look at the Movado brand and its strengths and opportunities. We made changes based on that. We limited our distribution, raised the level of innovation from within the brand and more, and it has been so successful for us that we are now

Movado Cerena.

“We are very excited about our brand new stand. It is three floors and lets us bring together all three of our Swiss-made brands, Movado, Ebel and Concord.” beginning to expand internationally. The plan was really about developing new products for the Movado loyalist – customers who are predisposed to us but want something new, and also to bring younger customers in. We did this via Bold and received an unexpected level of positive consumer response. The sales of Bold are not instead of our core business, but are in addition to it, and that extra incremental business has brought a halo to the brand and inspired us to do more. What do you think of this year’s exhibition space? We are very excited about this year’s show and about our brand new stand. It is three floors this year and lets us bring together all three of our Swiss-made brands, Movado, Ebel and Concord, in one world but still each with its own individual per-

sonality. We looked at the fact that we could build a new truly state-ofthe-art stand as an opportunity. What are the important Movado product highlights this year? In addition to Bold, women’s watches are also a huge success for us, and we are expanding on the ceramic and steel Cerena we unveiled last year, adding new versions, including one with a diamond bezel. We are also putting a focus on the SE line, which we have had since 1979. Now we are unveiling a new SE Pilot watch. We are very excited about this technical interpretation of a museum watch and think it will be well received. Also, as more retailers are trying to bring the younger millenials into the store, we are unveiling a new ESQ 1 watch that will retail for about $150 and that we think will have the power-house effect to bring these young customers into stores. Is there a new Ebel product? The women’s market is especially important for Ebel as this is a brand that is predominantly geared to women; although we do make men’s watches too. This year we are focusing strongly at Ebel on two major families – Onde and X-1. We don’t need to be the biggest women’s watch brand, we just need to do the best we can and offer a nice solid product. That is what Ebel is about. 1.0, D31

his traditional Swiss brand adores complications. As a member of the Sowind Group, Girard-Perregaux returns to BASELWORLD alongside its sister brands Jeanrichard and Gucci. With superlative manufacture movements, Girard-Perregaux positions itself as the top brand in the trio. The foreground is devoted to a technical innovation: a newly developed escapement. Another highlight is the GirardPerregaux 1966 model with minute repeater, annual calendar and equation of time. While the minute repeater audibly announces the time, the annual calendar’s displays automatically take into account the unequal lengths of the months. Finally, the display for the equation of time shows the difference between mean solar time and apparent solar time. The pacemaker inside the rose gold case is a handwound movement that concatenates over 400 components. 1.0, D49

STRONGLY RESISTANT

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his Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra encases the prototype of a new movement that was recently developed by Omega and that remains unaffected by magnetic fields up to 1.5 Tesla, i.e. 15,000 Gauss. 1.0, C25

HALL 1.1 B83


NEWS

Edox Grand Ocean Extreme Sailing Series Special Edition.

“ones” column printed with the digits from zero to nine. These discs are coplanar and concentric, so no middle bar is needed to conceal the difference in their elevations.

A HOST OF DEBUTANTS

HAMILTON – The unique rotating case of the Hamilton Jazzmaster Face2face houses two dials, one presenting a chronograph and the other a three-hand timekeeper. The common denominator of the two contrasting faces is the decorated, skeletonized rotor of each automatic movement, which is fully visible in the oval-shaped case. The two sides can be used for two different time zones or to project different styles. It will be made in a limited edition of 888 pieces. (cb) 1.0, A25

Glashütte Original Senator Panorama Date.

BIG IS BEAUTIFUL THE LARGE DATE REMAINS A POPULAR COMPLICATION IN 2013

GUCCI – The Gucci Coupé Diamonds is a ladies’ version of the popular collection. The TV-screen shaped is gray mother-of-pearl, decorated with Gucci’s iconic GG pattern. The Gucci logo also appears at 12 o’clock, and the flange is set with 60 diamonds totaling 0.42 ct. The watch houses a Swiss quartz movement, which drives hours minutes and small seconds at 6 o’clock. The case is steel and the strap is grey crocodile. The watch is waterresistant to 50 metres. (cb) 1.0, D49

by Sabine Zwettler

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n accord with motto “carpe diem”, the date display is probably a watch’s most important and most useful additional function. The date is so important that it inspired Rolex in the 1940s to create an iconic model that prioritises the date: the Datejust. This classic watch, which remains a fixed feature in Rolex’s collection, perfectly and stylishly embodies the archetypal formula of “time plus date”. The specialists at the brand with the crown for its logo gave even greater importance to the date by augmenting the sapphire crystal with a magnifying lens that effectively enlarges the date display beneath it. Magnification is useful

3 QUESTIONS, 3 ANSWERS “I’m looking forward to interesting encounters.” What role does BASELWORLD play for you?

“It is one of the year’s highlights in our trade. For me personally, my visit focuses on the watches. Unfortunately, there’s never enough time to also visit the jewellery brands.” What are you most eagerly looking forward to?

“I’m particularly eager to see new products and to experience interesting encounters.” Are you looking for something in particular? Kim-Eva Wempe, CEO of Wempe Jewellers, Germany.

“Our gem buyers are always on the lookout for unusual diamonds and coloured gemstones.”

because the single-disc date displays used in most wristwatches result in a rather modestly dimensioned indicator which is elegantly understated, but not optimally legible.

STYLE UPGRADE Watches with outsize date displays are another story. Approximately three times bigger than their ordinary counterparts, these indicators upgraded the date display to the status of a formative stylistic element on the dial. Watchmakers first tried their hands at the handsome and highly legible outsize date display many decades ago. As early as the 1930s, the Sovil, Helvetia and Mimo watch brands presented an XXL

date indicator. This was followed in the 1940s by two Venus calibres with outsize date displays made by the Venus ébauche factory. But this special variety of date display didn’t really assert itself in those years. Half a century came and went before outsize date displays celebrated a triumphant comeback on wristwatches’ dials. Glashütte Original deserves much praise for its development of this popular complication, which the Saxon manufacture calls the “panorama date”. The patented mechanism relies on two discs: a small disc for the “tens” column printed with the integers from zero to three, and a larger disc for the

In 2013, Glashütte Original presents the panoramic date display in a model from the Senator collection. The revised collection appears at BASELWORLD with a slimmer bezel and a 40-mm case made of stainless steel or red gold. The larger dimensions provide more space for the lacquered and finely silvergrained dial with Roman numerals and classical railroad-style minutecircle. The panoramic date is black on an ivory-coloured background so its colour scheme harmonises with the dial. A connoisseur who peers through the sapphire crystal in the back of the case will discover selfwinding calibre 100-03, a manufacture movement with a 55-hour power reserve. This finely finished highquality calibre has a screw balance with 18 gold-plated weight screws, a swan’s neck fine adjustment mechanism, and a skeletonised rotor with a golden oscillating weight. The Swiss watch brand Carl F. Bucherer likewise has a penchant for outsize date displays. This is evident, for example, in the current Manero PowerReserve with integrated power-reserve display. Calibre CFB A1011 ticks inside this Manero’s refined stainless steel case, which measures 42.5 mm in diameter and has a height of 12.5 mm. Edox in Switzerland’s Jura region is official timekeeper of the Extreme Sailing Series, a sailing contest which will take place in 2013 at eight locations off the shores of three continents. Edox celebrates its role as timekeeper by presenting the Grand Ocean Extreme Sailing Series Special Edition. With a stately diameter of 48 mm, the stainless steel case is watertight to 300 metres and coated with black PVD. Inside it ticks a self-winding calibre with big date and chronograph function. The subdial at the “9” is a nautical aid: this indicator counts down the final four minutes prior to the start of a regatta. Luminous hands and indices ensure problem-free legibility for important information.

A PIECE OF ARTWORK HERMÈS COMBINES CRAFTSMANSHIP AND HOROLOGICAL TRADITION by Sabine Zwettler

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raced with a cover that requires almost 150 hours of work for its surface alone and taking inspiration from an Henri d’Origny design for a Hermès silk carré in 1972, the new pocket watch from the French brand continues a long-established tradition of artistic craftsmanship by combining gold marquetry and hand engraving. On the dial side, the Arceau Pocket Volutes highlights another emblematic skill: grand feu enamel-

ling. This patient work has been done on a cambered plate, creating subtly graded shades of colours in warm chestnut brown hues, with lighter nuances in the dial centre due to a thinner enamel coating. To give life to this unique work of art, a manufacture mechanical self-winding H1928 movement beats at the heart of the Arceau Pocket Volutes, which debuts in a 48 mm white gold case. It sits on a cord strap and pouch in matte leather. 1.1, B55

Hermès Arceau Pocket Volutes.

Visit us in Hall 1.1 Stand D71

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WATCHES 15 THURSDAY, APRIL 25.2013

钟表界的奥运会 BASELWORLD全新演绎会展传奇文：常伟David Chang

2013年4月25日-5月2日，为期八天的巴塞尔世界钟表珠宝博览会（BASELWORLD）向全世界敞开大门。早在两个月前，经过近两年建设的新馆已经交付瑞士巴塞尔展览公司使用，这个成功完成的项目总投资到达4.3亿瑞士法郎，是瑞士展览业有史以来最大的投资。本届博览会的总展览面积为141,000平方米，其中长220 米、宽90米、高32米的新建大厅包括了会展广场两边的一楼和上部楼层的展览空间，展出面积为38,000平方米。它由巴塞尔建筑师事务所Herzog & de Meuron设计，其特点是，一号馆延伸至原来的会展广场，建筑物的前部由三层的展览楼所取代，第一层设有多功能的活动大厅，上部由一个两层的展馆连接起来, 这个两层的新建筑跨越会展广场。下面是一个被称之为“城市休息室”的开放的大庭院空间。这种前所未有的新面貌吸引着每一位参观者以及参展商。事实上，在巴塞尔举办的BASELWORLD博览会经过了从瑞士到欧洲，最终走向世界的一个过程，1917 年，当第一次“瑞士巴塞尔样品博览会”(Schweizer Mustermesse Basel，简称MUBA）举办的时候，其中已经包含了钟表和珠宝这一特殊领域。之后它逐渐脱离成为一个钟表珠宝展览会。40年前，参展商的范围

由瑞士变为整个欧洲，而到了1986 年，来自亚洲的同业也参与其中。仅仅10年前，博览会被赋予了新的名称：BASELWORLD，The Watch and Jewellery Show，那时的博览会已经变为世界钟表珠宝奢侈品产业的顶级盛会。有人将BASELWORLD形容为瑞士钟表的“超级市场”，然而这个主要针对于贸易商和媒体的“超级市场”却将完美的品牌形象、完善的订货系统体现的淋漓尽致。瑞士以外的各国参展商也充分利用了这一国际化贸易平台，来展现各自的品牌与产品。与去年的六个馆相比，今年融合为四个馆：一号馆汇聚了具有全球性意义和影响力的钟表和珠宝品牌，飞亚达位于此馆的二层。二号馆展出了国际上积极活跃的钟表和珠宝品牌，廊桥表位于此馆的一层，ＴＴＦ在二层。钻石、宝石及珍珠的参展商在三号馆亮相。机械及其供应商的展台位于四号馆底层，其一层和二层是国家展团的位置，来自亚洲的许多参展商都集中在这里，中国展团在二层。本届博览会中，在一号馆一层依然汇聚了斯沃琪集团（宝玑、宝珀、格拉苏蒂、雅克德罗、欧米茄、浪琴、雷达、天梭、雪铁纳、美度、汉米尔顿等品牌）、LVMH集团（豪雅、真力时、宇舶、宝格丽等品牌）以及劳力

士集团（劳力士、帝舵）旗下的各大品牌，这些品牌占据了展馆一层的巨大空间，还有芝柏和尚维沙也加入进来，而百达翡丽、萧邦作为独立的钟表厂家的重要代表，也位于一层的醒目位置。今年，参观者面对全新设计的展馆，将从何看起、怎样才能够在较短时间内找到兴趣所在?如果是往年，拿着纸质的地图参照，去一一对应品牌的展位，既费时又费力。但是，新科技的手段却从2011年开始使博览会的参观变得容易，这要归功于BASELWORLD APP，不仅提供了有关展会的各种信息，而且具有展位分布图的显示，同时能够搜索出参观者想要了解的品牌，从而找到它的位置，这种操作既简单又便捷，省却了纸质地图的查询繁琐，手拿轻便的手机便可立刻定位，不费吹灰之力就能到达所往之处。而且今年还首次隆重推出了 BASELWORLD的品牌宝典。这本附有照片的图书独一无二地拓展了人们观看世界钟表珠宝的眼界，详细描绘了这个多元化产业中的各个品牌的情况。如何形容BASELWORLD 2013的整体观感，或许以下的六个“新”可以说明其中的内涵——全新的展馆、全新的布展理念、全新的展台、全新的宣传思想、全新的产品和技术，以及给您全新的感受！

全是新时代的艺术品，自发布便引来无数喝彩。谁能想到，品牌其实是步步为营，早早就在准备着更加重要的作品。2013巴塞尔正式发布的机械人偶雀鸟三问表，就是品牌耗费多年努力、能够体现出对雅克德罗精神与技艺传承的最好证明。

院，除了雅克德罗和播威的古老钟表精品，还有被故宫纳入的一个唯一的当代钟表作品，就是宝珀的卡罗素手表。处在重要年份的宝珀在2013年必定新品不断，巴展前抢先预报的“ 大日历窗计时码表”就很让人眼睛一亮：首先，顺应女表的发展势头，此块表特别为女性制作，38.6mm的表径尺寸即考虑了当代女性不一样的审美姿态，又不至于太过突兀。时针和分针放在十二点位偏心，一根大

秒针独立计时，亮眼而张扬。计时的分钟和小时小表盘非常特别，椭圆有分离大窗口显示的日历可爱而清晰易读。15分和45分点位之上的镶钻弧线像两瓣盛开的花瓣。表圈镶钻、计时按钮的亮闪镀金、表冠上精致镶嵌的钻石、表背摆陀上的金雕花瓣，更是让这款专为女性制作的码表充满了女性华贵气息和柔美姿态。又有五十噚、又有月相，又有华丽大日历计时码女表为巴塞尔打头阵，2013的宝珀，将要如何精彩？

宝珀大日历窗计时码表

宝珀著名的“五十噚”系列六十周岁

雅克德罗和宝珀和中国渊源最早和最新的品牌文：白映泽Bai Yingze

雅克德罗（Jaquet Droz）今年是雅克德罗品牌的275周年，距离雅克德罗进入中国市场正好230 周年。 1 7 8 3 年，随着有历史记录的第一批钟表产品进入到中国的清朝皇宫，雅克德罗已作为瑞士最早的高级钟表制造售卖先行者打开了中国巨大市场。接下来超过600件以上带有活动人偶、珐琅、金雕、珠宝镶饰、各种造型的精彩绝伦的座钟、挂钟、鸟笼钟、鸟音表、香水瓶表、怀表对表，甚至一些并不是钟表、但为中国皇帝

雅克德罗机械人偶雀鸟三问表

和高官喜欢的高级饰物（如鼻烟壶和瓶子）源源不断进入中国市场。至今，在中国故宫博物院的钟表馆中还藏有雅克德罗十几件钟表精品，而散藏在世界各地博物馆和私人藏家手中的雅克德罗精品也多在近一百多年中从中国市场所得。 275周年是个大日子，雅克德罗借助这一机会，为钟表界带来了一件完全出人意料的作品：带活动机械人偶的雀鸟三问表。这件复古传今的作品让我们看到：品牌正在或已经把创始人雅克德罗的精神和技艺精华全部继承下来！作为当今世界的制表中心，在谈论瑞士制表史时不能逾越两位重要人物：一位是宝玑大师－－他带来许多发明并开创许多制表技术；一位是雅克德罗，他为瑞士制表业开创国际化的生产模式，打开对外市场，使日内瓦的珐琅技艺迅速发展且得为所用，留下无数绝世精品，他还是机械人偶技艺历史上的开创者和最著名的大师。雅克德罗品牌自2000年由斯沃琪接手、集团第三代重要成员马克海耶克掌管后发展迅速，品牌出产的“日内瓦”、“拉绍德封”、“北京” 、“巴黎”系列各有千秋，特色与儒雅兼备，各个表款均能感受到时尚和年轻的气息，同时又可深深体会到历史的积淀。珐琅、微绘、金雕、特别材质的特别作品更是迷倒全球无数爱表人。2012年中国龙年时雅克德罗在巴塞尔发布的金龙和报时鸟金雕表完

宝珀（Blancpain）在一年之后的2013，温故2012年的巴塞尔，我们始终认为当之无愧的明星仍然是宝珀的中华年历表。一百多年前瑞士人已针对中国市场，做出了带有中国“子、丑、寅、卯....”时辰的表款，但仅止步于此。而宝珀的中华年历表除具备这最基本的中国古十二时辰（二十四小时）计时外，中国十二属相、农历月份、天干地支、五行、六十甲子等等都蕴含其间，同时包括公历日期和月相显示，宝珀为钟表界尤其是中国用户拿出一块真正意义上的中国年历手表。这样的表，中国自己的表厂和技师也未曾动过脑筋，而宝珀花费几年的时间做到了。2013年，对于宝珀是个重要年份：宝珀著名的“五十噚”系列六十周岁，宝珀月相表也三十周年了。 2013年年初，宝珀在上海进行了一场非常成功的慈善拍卖晚宴，晚宴和拍卖主角是一块珐琅表，珐琅表的表盘画面，正是中国人比较熟悉的“ 蝶恋花”场景。原标价30多万的表最终110万人民币落锤，可见宝珀艺术表的吸引力。这一切，都是品牌非常针对中国市场的做为。在中国故宫博物


NEW AND UNPRECEDENTED

NEWS

MARC GLÄSER, CEO OF MAURICE LACROIX, TALKS ABOUT HIS AMBITIOUS PLANS FOR THE BRAND Interview by Iris Wimmer-Olbort

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rom discriminating complications, through feminine watches for ladies to the first genuine divers’ watch: Maurice Lacroix presents an attractive spectrum of new items at BASELWORLD.

BWDN: As in previous years, Maurice Lacroix is again presenting some surprisingly unconventional dials. What’s your highlight at this year’s show? Marc Gläser: After we were able to launch an attention-getting world

premiere with the Masterpiece Roue Carrée Seconde in 2011, now we’re proud to achieve this again in 2013 with the Masterpiece Seconde Mystérieuse. This watch has a remarkable seconds display at the “6”, but viewers wonder how this display is possible because the second hand moves in a totally new and unprecedented way. You’ve enlivened the Masterpiece collection with numerous new additions. Which elements of design and which movements are you relying on here? Our twelfth manufacture movement ticks inside the Masterpiece Seconde Mystérieuse. The Masterpiece Tradition collection reinterprets and freshens up the traditional approach to design that we used in our successful Masterpiece in the 1990s.

Marc Gläser, CEO of Maurice Lacroix.

Do you have a specific market in mind, e.g. Asia, where you were very active and enjoyed big successes in previous years? That’s correct for the Masterpiece Tradition. Those watches were also warmly received in the more traditional markets such as Russia, Turkey and Germany. On the other

Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Extreme.

hand, we developed our entry-level collection with quartz movements for the European market. The Pontos collection is likewise very strong in Europe. Maurice Lacroix conquers water sports now with its professional divers’ watch. How does this timepiece fit into your collection, which has been rather classical thus far? Our Pontos collection already had a sporty side with chronographs. Now we’re expanding that sportiness with the Pontos S Diver and Pontos S Extreme. A strong, unique design is the most important aspect in this collection for us. What can we expect from the manufacture? What are your future plans? Maurice Lacroix will continue to grow strongly in the coming years: we have some ambitious plans for the brand. We will continue to strengthen our core collections (Pontos and Masterpiece) and, of course, we’ll also capitalize on the great skills of our designers and our Research & Development team to create unique and surprising watches. 1.1, E63

A LEAGUE OF ITS OWN

THE SKY’S THE LIMIT

JEANRICHARD DEMONSTRATES HIGH WATCHMAKING EXPERTISE

CHRONOSWISS PRESENTS NEW TIMEMASTER



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Jeanrichard Terrascope.

n eye-catching pillow-shaped case, a sleekly simple dial boldly bearing the brand’s logo and with an arrow as an hourhand: this new look now distinguishes Jeanrichard. This brand of the Sowind Group has a new orientation that integrates Jeanrichard into the corporation’s portfolio as a label covering the entry-level and medium-priced segments. The premiere coincides with the debut of the Terrascope, a sporty three-hand wristwatch with a stainless steel case and a self-winding movement. The brand’s new style is expressed by the pillow-shaped case: multipart construction with a separate middle piece and add-on bezel makes it uncomplicated to combine various materials. 1.0, D49

RAYMOND WEIL unveils the Freelancer Visible Balance Wheel. As this watch’s name promises, the balance of its mechanical movement is in plain sight at 12 o’clock. The tirelessly swinging wheel isn’t the only the technical and aesthetic highlight of this bicolour watch’s elegant black dial because the face is further embellished with fine Clous-de-Paris guilloche. The 42 mm case of the Freelancer Visible Balance Wheel is watertight to ten atmospheres. (sz) 1.0, C35

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Chronoswiss Timemaster Chronograph GMT S-Ray 007.

he watch brand affirms its independence with the new Timemaster Chronograph GMT S-Ray 007. Typical stylistic details are the big onion-shaped crown and the knurling on the bezel and back, but Chronoswiss modernizes the styling by coating the stainless steel case with a layer of black DLC. The typical dial recalls the display of an artificial horizon in an aircraft’s cockpit because this special model in the Timemaster line was created together with the pilot, aircraft manufacturer and adventurer Iren Dornier, whose S-Ray 007 flying boat is embarking on a world tour for charity. Affixed to a rubber wristband, the new chronograph contains a self-winding movement that indicates the time in a second time zone and also supports a date display. 1.1, B63


Jacob & Co. Grand watch.

B.Fendi Glossy.

SHINE BRIGHT WITH FENDI A DISTINCTIVE WATCH IN NEW COLOURS – THE B.FENDI GLOSSY by Nina Hald

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Jacob & Co. Brilliant Diamond Ladies Collection.

JACOB & CO. HAS A PASSION FOR LADIES THIS 25-YEAR–YOUNG BRAND BREATHES INTERESTING AND INVENTIVE LIGHT INTO ITS WATCH CREATIONS by Roberta Naas

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reation is something Jacob Arabo of Jacob & Co. is known for. It’s not that he has to shake out the old and bring in the new, it’s rather that his mind races with concepts and creations that he wants to supply to his many global followers. This year he is dazzling and delighting with stunning bejewelled masterpieces for women. Known first as a jeweller, this arena is Jacob & Co.’s playground. It works with the finest stones in the world procuring some of the rarest and most coveted gems. Therefore,

it is only natural that the company brings that expertise to the timepiece world. The newest watches being unveilled here at BASELWORLD include the delightful Brilliant Diamond Ladies Collection. Taking its inspiration from the Crystal Tourbillon, these new jewellery models are adorned from case to bezel and dial with hundreds of Top Wesselton round-cut white diamonds. The line is offered in two sizes – 32 mm and 38 mm – and features satin straps in blue, grey or taupe. The 32 mm versions are meticulously set with 678 stones,

WATCH TO WATCH

while the 38 mm models are set with a dazzling 852 diamonds. These watches demonstrate Jacob & Co.’s attention to detail and beauty.

GRAND DESIGNS Bringing gemstone setting to the wild side, Jacob & Co. is unveiling a full baguette-adorned Grand watch. The Grand is a five–time-zone pentagonal timepiece that is offered in a 47 mm 18K white gold case. The watch is bedecked with five antireflective sapphire crystals on the dial to depict the time in different zones. The dial and the case of this

extreme timepiece are set invisibly using 830 baguette-cut diamonds weighing approximately 30 carats. There is also one 1.25-carat centre round diamond. Powered by a Ronda quartz movement, this five-time-zone watch even sports an 18K white gold buckle set with 44 baguette diamonds weighing approximately 2 carats. This timepiece represents the most complicated diamond setting offered by Jacob & Co. with a total weight of approximately 33 carats. Just 18 pieces will be made. 1.1, B31

he internationally renowned luxury house of Fendi – celebrated for couture styling and superb accessories – has once again struck gold with the unique B.Fendi buckle-shaped design. This most loved element – incorporated for a decade into Fendi accessories such as handbags and shoes, eyewear and belts – made its debut in the watch world six years ago when Silvia Venturini Fendi integrated the immediately identifiable belt buckle concept into the Fendi timepiece collection, creating one of the most distinct watches on the market. Since then, the Swiss-made B.Fendi watch, with its alluring buckle-shaped case, has become a coveted fashion statement piece. It is the must-have watch for true Fendi lovers and for style-conscious watch aficionados, because it exudes its fine Italian heritage in the resolute and distinguished design. Every year, Fendi infuses the B.Fendi timepiece family with new colours and themes, and this year is no exception: BASELWORLD celebrates B.Fendi Glossy with mother-of-pearl dials, diamond indexes and straps in glossy finishes, as this season’s itpiece. 1.1, D59

CUTTING-EDGE UNDER WATER Milus Tirion TriRetrograde 42 mm Movement

Milus 3838, automatic Functions

hour, minute, retrograde seconds on three sectors Case material

stainless steel Case dimensions

42 mm

Special features

retrograde seconds function on three sectors, guilloché dial, see-through back Place to watch: 1.1, A83

ORIS PRESENTS A DIVERS’ WATCH WITH DEPTH GAUGE by Sabine Zwettler

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his Swiss brand annually debuts new models at BASELWORLD that reaffirm its fondness for professional divers’ watches. This year coincides with the presentation of a very special model that ventures into highly technological territory. The Oris Aquis Depth Gauge is one of the rare divers’ watches that can determine the exact depth based on penetration by water. To do so, it’s equipped with a special sapphire crystal that’s 50

percent thicker than a conventional watch crystal, and it also has a milled channel that runs anticlockwise around the dial and ends between the “1” and the “2”. A hole at the “12” serves as the channel’s opening. As its wearer descends on a dive, increasing water pressure compresses the air inside the channel, which allows water to penetrate through the opening at the “12”. The momentary depth, which can be read from the yellow scale, is indicated by the pale grey and dark grey marking between compressed air and water that has already penetrated. The 46 mm stainless steel case is watertight to 500 metres. 1.1, D55

Oris Aquis Depth Gauge.


L. LEROY PRESENTS EXQUISITE WATCHMAKING

Matthias Breschan, President of Rado.

ITS WATCHES ARE EXAMPLES OF HOROLOGICAL CRAFTSMANSHIP By William George Shuster

L.

Leroy is a famous French luxury watch name, originally established in 1785 in Paris and later located (1895) in Besançon, the heart of French watchmaking. At one time, it was official watchmaker to royalty, including the mother of Emperor Napoleon, and the Queens of England and of Spain. The company’s reputation for fine timepieces continued to attract distinguished clients, including, in the 20th century, Franklin D. Roosevelt, Alfred Noble, Charles Lindbergh, Frédéric Chopin, Marcel Proust, then-General Dwight Eisenhower and even Joseph Stalin. In 2004, the brand was purchased by Miguel Rodriguez, founder and owner of Festina-Lotus SA, who re-established it in Besançon, France. The luxury watch brand comes to BASELWORLD 2013 with

two exquisite examples of the fine art of horological craftsmanship.

NOBLE INSPIRATION One is the men’s classically stylish Marine Automatic Deck Chronometer, inspired by on-board chronometers used on ships for navigation and precise timekeeping. The 43 mm timepiece has a pink gold case with a screwed-in crown. Its twotone dial displays Roman numerals, a railroad watch-style minute track, seconds subdial at ‘12’, power reserve indicator at ‘6’, and blued steel or gold plated hands. It wears a glare-proof sapphire crystal in front and on its case back, and is waterresistant to 100 metres. The handwound 36-jewel movement, decorated by hand, has a gold rotor, a variable-inertia balance with gold regulating screw, a lever escapement in silicon and 42-hour power reserve.

The stand of L. Leroy and Perrelet.

L. Leroy Marine Automatic Deck Chronometer.

The other is the limited edition (7) Osimor automatic tourbillon regulator chronometer. The timepiece is part of L. Leroy’s line of elegant automatic watches with complications, exemplifying neo-classical watchmaking. Others in the collection include a single push-button column-wheel chronograph and a perpetual retrograde calendar. The 41 mm regulator chronometer commemorates the reference clocks which L. Leroy once provided to most of the world’s national observatories. Its flying tourbillon – in a hand-cut and bevelled cage, with L.Leroy double “L” logo – incorporates a full diamond lever escapement, a variable inertia balance with gold regulating screws and double balance-spring. The skeleton dial, with laser openwork, is bevelled by hand, and has blued steel hands. The movement has a gold central rotor and 52 hour power reserve. The watch is water resistant to 50 metres. Both of the new L. Leroy timepieces are numbered and delivered with their individual and official chronometer certificates by the National Observatory of Besançon. 1.1, A51

THE CRICKET GOES FOR A DIVE VULCAIN PRESENTS NEW VERSION OF NAUTICAL By Sabine Zwettler

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hen it debuted in 1961, the Cricket Nautical was the first divers’ watch with an alarm that rang loudly enough to be heard underwater. Functional to a depth of 300 metres, it could issue an audible warning to notify its wearer that the time had come to begin ascending toward the water’s surface. The watch also notified the diver about the decompression phases which mustn’t be omitted during the ascent. Behind this masterful technical and mechanical achievement stood the already legendary Cricket calibre, which the manufacture had introduced in 1947. Vulcain launched a new version

with a reworked display in 1970. That timepiece is revived in 2013 by a limited edition of 300 watches: the Nautical Seventies Limited Edition captures the charm of the original and, like its forebear, it represents the decompression tables in orange hues. The central immobile dial is surrounded by a flange that is calibrated with 60 minute markings and that can be rotated by turning a threaded crown at the “4”. The manufacture movement has two barrels: one for the time and the other for the alarm’s striking mechanism, which rings with for 20 seconds. The 42 mm case is watertight to 30 atmospheres and has a tripartite back that functions as a resonator to give optimal sonic volume to the alarm signal. A Hesalite crystal above the dial further optimizes the alarm’s loudness. 1.1, A71

MOTIVATED TO INNOVATE 2013 OFFERS “EXCELLENT OPPORTUNITIES” FOR RADO Interview by William George Shuster

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atthias Breschan, President of Rado, tells BWDN about its strongest markets, HyperChrome’s success and the new “face” of Rado. BWDN: Rado recently opened several stores across China (including Hong Kong) and is official timekeeper of the World Mind Games in Beijing. What does China mean to Rado? Matthias Breschan: China is Rado’s most important market. Our market share there has grown steadily in recent years. The World Mind Games is one of many initiatives that underline Rado’s presence there. However, I am pleased our growth also continues globally and not only in China.

The Rado HyperChrome had a good debut year in 2012, including winning the prestigious Good Design Award. What’s new in 2013 for the hightech ceramic collection? HyperChrome was a huge success in 2012 and instrumental in helping Rado achieve an all-time record year. At Basel, we have new models for it which underline our focus on innovative materials and design, and show Rado offers something for every customer across a range of price points.

“We have some great new products that we’re excited to show at BASELWORLD.”

How was business in 2012? 2012 was a record year, and we expect 2013 to be another successful one. We have some great new products that we’re excited to show at BASELWORLD. Where are Rado’s best opportunities in 2013? Rado has many excellent opportunities in 2013. As we develop the new face of the brand, we continue to gain market share and increase our sales. We expect to expand our strong bases in Asia, the Middle East, Europe and North America, aided by our marketing, our association with tennis, and the strength of our new collections.

Vulcain Nautical Seventies Limited Edition.

nology and techniques to colour and shape materials we use in different ways. So, this ‘face’ has changed considerably. We still produce the iconic watches which our core customers love, but now we can appeal to different audiences with our new families, such as the HyperChrome.

What do you mean by the “new face of the brand”? When many people think of Rado, they recall the ‘face’ of the past when the collection was generally black and square. In recent years, however, we have developed tech-

It’s the fifth time Rado has won a Good Design award. How important are such awards for a watch brand? An internationally-recognised design award reinforces the watch’s appeal when a customer is already interested in buying it. From Rado’s perspective, it’s the ultimate recognition of our design team that works so hard with the innovative materials Rado is known for. It motivates them to keep pushing boundaries for more innovations. How does BASELWORLD affect Rado’s business? For a company operating globally, it’s the one occasion annually when everyone in the watch world is together, and we can deliver a consistent message during this week to journalists and retailers from every country. 1.0, D25

Multi-Functional Like You !

Visit us at: Hall 1.2/E09

FENDI CHAMELEON COLLECTION SERIES 31700 IS A REGISTERED MODEL

FENDI.COM


NEWS

PIERRE LANNIER – The Pierre Lannier collections play on colour for this summer. The Flower range is available in several versions, notably a pretty red one enhanced by a floral motif on the dial. The model worked in white on rose gold-coloured metal is particularly elegant, becoming a veritable piece of jewellery. As women’s watches are evolving towards greater technicality, so Pierre Lannier reveals the mechanism on another model, thereby allowing us to better appreciate the French watchmaker’s know-how. (kb) 1.2, A27

TIME VIA SATELLITE

Cindy Livingston, President and CEO of Sequel.

Gc Mini Chic.

GUESS GOES DENIM; Gc FOCUSES ON MEN

CITIZEN IMPROVES SATELLITE TECHNOLOGY

THE TWO SEQUEL BRANDS REMAIN TRUE TO THEIR ROOTS IN 2013

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indy Livingston, President and CEO of Sequel, whose brands, Guess and Gc, are distributed in over 70 countries around the world, shares company, product and show news.

by William George Shuster

itizen Watch’s new 49.5 mm Eco-Drive Satellite Wave-Air uses an advanced system to receive time signals from satellites. It has improved reception sensitivity and the fastest time adjustment of all satellite-synchronized watches and GPS watches. The analogue quartz, light-powered watch debuts in a titanium case, inspired by wings’ streamlined structures. Its dial suggests the rotating fan blades of an aircraft engine, and the multilayered transparent face gives the impression of floating indexes and hands. 1.1, E91

Citizen Watch Eco-Drive Satellite Wave-Air.

Interview by Carol Besler

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BWDN: What do you think of the new layout of BASELWORLD and can you tell us something about the design of your stand? Cindy Livingston: Our space at BASELWORLD this year is 40 percent larger than previously, and has been divided to accommodate stands for each of our brands, Guess and Gc. The stands were designed by a team of European designers, and overseen by my top two creative people at Sequel, Rob Pomponio and Irene Tullo. Each of our new homes exemplifies the design elements that are associated with our two different brands. Our Guess stand has lots of imagery and a red design accent that has always been associated with the brand. Our Gc stand has been designed to incorporate our Gc boutique store concept, mirroring our latest Geneva boutique, which opened this past January. We are very excited to have a prominent position in the show’s new layout, and it seems that the creation of the new halls is appropriate

for segregating what our industry stands for – quality and innovation at all levels. And how about the watches? What are the highlights of Guess and Gc this year? For Guess, we’re launching an entire statement supporting the brand’s background in denim blues. Highlights from Guess Watches’ Spring 2013 collection include a new tri-tone statement, as well as his and hers pieces that exemplify the fashionable and functional side of rose gold. For the Swiss-made brand Gc one of our ladies’ highlights is the Gc Mini Chic inspired by the fashion trend of warm natural tones interpreted in soft croco-embossed leather bracelets. A timeless essen-

For men, Gc presents a new contemporary take on the iconic Gc-1 Sport: a sophisticated watch with a dynamic multi-link bracelet, striking silhouette and highly detailed dial design, the leading style particularly highlighting the rose gold and black colour combination which is a signature of Gc. A Swiss-made chronograph made to become the iconic face of Gc for tomorrow. What plans are in the works for the coming year in terms of marketing, sponsorships and promotions for the two brands? Our company continues to support our “Time To Give” effort with the creation of a single watch where all the profit is gifted to a specific children’s charity around the world.

“Our space at BASELWORLD this year is 40 percent larger than previously, and has been divided to accommodate stands for each of our brands, Guess and Gc.” tial watch that exudes easy elegance in a feminine mini size based on one of our best selling ladies timepieces.

That watch and our new charity will be launched at BASELWORLD on Friday evening at the Open House that we hold at the Guess

stand to celebrate our new home. We will also continue to support the fight for breast cancer with proceeds from our annual “Sparkling Pink” watch, and we are continuing our collaboration with Tiesto, the world’s number-one DJ, with a second signature watch that will launch this summer. How about Gc? For Gc, we are excited about concluding our two-year “Moments of Smart Luxury” photographic concept with a gala on BASELWORLD’s first Thursday evening, complete with appearances from some of our “Smart Luxury” creative rising stars personalities, along with Paul Marciano. It is topped off with the launch of our “Moments of Smart Luxury” book, which is a fabulous photographic journey shot by photographer Pino Gomes, depicting all of our 100 personalities – authentic ambassadors of the brand – in the midst of their very own “Moments of Smart Luxury”. It’s a beautiful art book shot in black and white, that combines time and photography. 2012 was another record year for Swiss watch exports. What do you attribute this boom in watches to? What are the important drivers? The growing segment of consumers in emerging markets who appreciate and can afford luxury purchases – no matter how we might define “luxury” – is the main reason for the boom. In addition to personal consumption, the watch as a gift in these types of markets also plays an important part in the growth of the category. 1.2, A41


NEWS FOLLI FOLLIE – At this year’s BASELWORLD, Folli Follie introduces a new addition to its Heart4Heart collection. In 2013, the special timepiece has a grand entrance thanks to its white ceramic bracelet, which is attached to a rose-gold plated stainless steel case. The typical four hearts on the dial are adorned with crystal clear stones, underscoring the unique design. (sz) 1.2, E41

VERSACE SETS NEW RECORDS THE HIGH-END WATCH EXPECTS BIG GROWTH IN THE AMERICAS Interview by William George Shuster

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aolo Marai, President and CEO of Vertime, a company of Timex Group, tells BWDN about its Versace watch plans for Asia, the Middle East and the Americas, and product debuts at BASELWORLD. BWDN: Mr. Marai, how was 2012, and what do you expect in 2013?

Paolo Marai: 2012 was our record year for Versace watches, with a very strong first half and sell-out performances for record month after month. For 2013, we initially targeted a yearly growth averaging 15%, but the first quarter started incredibly strong. We were +40% year-on-year at the end of February. We are traditionally very strong in the Middle East and Asia, but it is

Paolo Marai, President & CEO of Vertime.

the Americas (the USA, Central and South America) where we expect 2013’s biggest growth. In 2012, Versace debuted Mystique, a high-end line for women and men. What’s new in 2013? Mystique is a success and its development continues in 2013. For the lady’s 38 mm watch, we have an iconic dial inspired by a Versace foulard [scarf] pattern, and new men’s chronograph models, based on – but bigger versions of – the initial women’s model. Versace entered the Indian market in 2011. Tell us about that. India is one of our key markets for future development for various reasons, including – but not only – its size and our brand’s appeal to consumers there. 2011 and 2012 were great years, and – although the market had some financial troubles in late 2012 – we expect to double business there by the end of 2014. For products, we adapt our collections to the market’s needs. We haven’t yet had to develop a specific product for India. How is business elsewhere in Asia and the Middle East? The Middle East is our best-performing region. Each year sets a new record, and we expect this again in 2013. Overall, Asia is very promising. While China represents the future for much of the watch industry, we don’t concentrate our efforts only on it, but on every country there, such as South Korea, Vietnam, Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, Hong Kong and Japan.

Versace Vanitas.

Mexico was one of the best-growing markets in 2012, and keeps growing monthly, with very positive sell-out trends. We expect it will be one of our relevant markets in a few years. For Brazil, I’m glad to say that by the end of 2013’s second quarter, we will start our product distribution there. In 2012, Versace debuted the DV One Cruise collection, a new version of its DV One series. What’s planned for 2013? DV One is our iconic watch. The response met our expectations; DV One Cruise sold out. A new DV One limited edition – the Skeleton Chrono, driven by a special Dubois Dépraz movement – is debuting at BASELWORLD this year.

“Donatella Versace inspires any product with her name. She actively participates in creation of the watches.”

ERWIN SATTLER – In former times, not winding an on-board clock was seen as an inexcusable error, since the precise time was extremely important for navigation at sea. Even though today’s modern technical equipment has replaced mechanical clocks in shipping, the Nautis Worldtime continues to meet the demands required by a marine clock. In addition to the decorative and technically sophisticated characteristics of the popular timepiece, the new Nautis Worldtime also offers a 24-hour world time display – a useful extra for anyone voyaging on the high seas, and perfect for open-minded cosmopolitans. (sz) 2.0, G01

You have said Brazil and Mexico “deserve our attention.” What’s happening there?

BEWARE OF SPIDERS! POCKET WATCH WITH FILIGREED OPENWORK by Sabine Zwettler

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he traditional and independent Swiss brand Aerowatch demonstrates a high degree of craftsmanly expertise with the Cobweb, a hand-wound pocket watch that reinterprets one of the oldest skills in Swiss watchmaking: the art of squelette. Manual skeletonising demands virtuosity and

accuracy because meticulous work in small dimensions gradually creates the transparency of a skeletonised movement. Tiny holes are first drilled into the components. The blade of a watchmaker’s saw is inserted through one such hole and the craftsman begins to cut away the interior of the part. The dimen-

sions are so tiny that the saw must be viewed through a loupe. The squeletteur’s steady hand slowly guides the saw’s blade along the lines of the pattern until a tiny piece falls away, leaving behind the delicate silhouette of the skeletonised component. Thanks to the large diameter of its case (48 mm), this pocket-watch most impressively showcases the delicate tracery of the openwork, which resembles a spider’s web. The model is available in stainless steel and black PVD. 2.0, C37

How much input does Donatella Versace have in Versace watches? Donatella inspires any product with her name. She actively participates in the creation of the watches, from design to the final prototype approved for the market. 1.1, E67

Aerowatch Cobweb.

Celebrate a Milestone in our History. On Your Wrist.

Please visit us at Hall 1.1 · Stand D87 www.tutima.com

TUTIMA UHRENFABRIK GMBH NDL. GLASHÜTTE Altenberger Straße 6 · 01768 Glashütte/Sa. · Germany Tel. +49 35053 320 20 · [email protected]


NEWS

DIVE DOWN DEEP

Chanel this year celebrates its 10th anniversary as an exhibitor at BASELWORLD.

SINN PRESENTS NEW TIMEPIECE FOR MISSIONS by Sabine Zwettler

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RODANIA embraced ceramics as a core material for watchmaking as early as in 2004 with the launch of the Mystery collection. Its latest creation, the GNV-R1, reinterprets the concept of “full ceramic” dedicated to women. Its daring architecture and its exclusive design embody the Rodania signature style. Available in three colours, milky white, chocolate and deep black, the GNV-R1 is driven by a Ronda quartz movement. (sz) 1.2, B03

HIGH-END DESIGNERS FOCUS ON WOMEN THIS YEAR, THE LUXURY DESIGNER WATCH BRANDS UNVEIL TRUE TIMEPIECES OF DISTINCTION

JAGUAR, one of the brands in the Festina Group, presents the J-Motion, a new collection of chronographs distinguished by robustness and sporty elegance. A new multifunctional quartz movement with two retrograde displays animates the J-Motion. The Twin Motion was developed by Soprod, a subsidiary of the Festina Group. The special feature of this movement is the bidirectional (i.e. backwardly jumping) function of its hands, which are moved by independent micro-motors. The J-Motion comes in several circular versions and in one variant with a rectangular case. (sz) 1.2, D31

by Roberta Naas

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n the past few years we have witnessed a true change in the world of high-end designer watch brands, as they focused ever more strongly on technological innovations, watchmaking prowess and design distinction. This year, brands known as key fashion houses – such as Chanel, Dior and Hermès – continue to delight the senses.

TURNING TO COLOUR Dior, which has become synonymous with luxury craftsmanship, releases a host of important new quartz and mechanical timepieces. In its Dior VIII collection, the brand continues to utilize high-tech ceramic and diamond settings via a small 28 mm version and a 32 mm version, both in quartz, and in an automatic 38 mm version. It expands further its stunning Dior VIII Grand Bal Plume watch series, which is famed for its Dior Inverse calibre – with highly decorated oscillating weights in diamonds and feathers. Dior offers new versions in black or white ceramic with pink gold accents and fawncoloured feathers. It also turns to colour in its La Mini D De Dior watches – 19 mm versions with brightly coloured straps and dials that include fluorescent yellow, pink and orange. In the La D De Dior Precieuse series, new stone

Hermès Arceau Petite Lune (upper right). Dior VIII Grand Bal Plume (lower right).

dials are offered in turquoise, Australian white opal, jade and onyx. Hermès, which has been a strong contender in the watch world with the introduction of its own inhouse-made calibre and with specialty pieces such as its Time Suspended watch, offers a host of important new models this year. Among them is the Arceau Petite Lune collection to mark its 35th anniversary of the first Arceau model designed by Henri d’Origny. The new piece offers the horological complication of moonphase display interpreted in a more feminine design. The round steel 38 mm case features lugs designed to emulate stirrups – a motif long associated with Hermès. Two versions are being offered, one with a shimmering white motherof-pearl dial and one with a black mother-of-pearl dial. The watch features the arc-shaped moonphase aperture between 10:00 and 11:00

and has a sub seconds dial at 6:00 for a balanced design. It houses a mechanical self-winding movement and offers 42 hours of power reserve. Chanel, celebrating its 10th anniversary as exhibitor at BASELWORLD, is recalling its jewellery heritage and its iconic Premiere collection this year. Originally created in 1987 exclusively for women, the Premiere was inspired by the shape of the No. 5 Chanel perfume bottle stopper and by Place Vendôme. The Premiere is all about classic beauty and offers an elegant uncluttered dial design and a precious, supple open-linked bracelet that is distinctly Chanel. This year’s versions, crafted in 18-karat gold, feature black dials or shimmering white mother-of-pearl dials and are available with or without diamond cases. Additionally, in celebration of the 10th anniversary of the J12 White, Chanel releases new J12 white, black and chromatic pieces.

he Sinn watch company, based in Frankfurt, Germany, is renowned for its affinity with highly functional watches and timepieces for missions. Many innovations were developed under the aegis of the academically trained engineer Lothar Schmidt, e.g. the Ar-Dehumidifying technology and improved protection against magnetic fields. The T1 (EZM 14) is the newest mission timepiece. All parts of its case are made of bead-blasted and outstandingly robust titanium, a material characterized by its low weight, extreme sturdiness and high resistance to saltwater. Titanium is also comfortable to wear because it doesn’t cause allergic reactions. Tested and certified by Lloyd of Hamburg, Germany, this newcomer is watertight to 100 atmospheres (1,000 metres) and is equipped with a special impossibleto-lose diving ring that boasts patented protection against unintentional resetting. The Ar-Dehumidifying technology assures greater functionality and prevents the dial from fogging. An arrowhead-shaped minute-hand is used here on a Sinn divers’ watch for the first time. The hour-hand is shaped differently from the minutehand, thus improving the legibility of the preset diving time. To preserve this legibility and to assure unmistakable reading of the present diving time in the dark or under poor seeing conditions, the 45-mmdiameter T1 also has colour-coded luminous coating for its minutehand and for the main marker on its 2.2, B27 rotatable bezel.

Sinn T1.

PART OF TH E HOu SE OF

HALL OF SE NSATIONS, BO OTH 1.2 D 05 WWW.TOPBRAN DSgROu P.cOm

WE ARE An AmERicAn compAny dEdicAtEd to mAki n g th i n g s i n Am E R i cA. Along With WAtchEs built in thE motoR city, WE mAkE hAndcRAFtEd bicyclEs, lEAthER goods, And jouRnAls. ouR goAl is thE cREAtion oF A modERn And quintEssEntiAlly AmERicAn bRAnd thRough thE REintRoduction oF domEstic mAnuFActuRing At A scAlE thAt cAn shApE cultuRE, cREAtE community, And dElivER goods oF thE highEst quAlity, built to lAst.

Creator of dreams C A R RO U S E L C O L L E C T I O N For the eternally young at heart and who have learned by experience the precious nature of time, Sarcar offers splendid models reflecting this evocative theme that has become a brand signature. Each of these watches is driven by a mechanical Piguet movement, guaranteeing optimal precision and teamed with a matching crocodile leather strap with precious diamond-set gold buckle. With these stunning models, Sarcar fully lives up to

SARCAR TRAMEX SA • Geneva • Switzerland Switzerland • UK • USA • Colombia • Bahrain • Kuwait • Qatar • Saudi Arabia • UAE • Russia • China • Hong Kong • Taiwan • Japan • Singapore • Indonesia • Malaysia • Thailand • Vietnam Visit us at our booth A12 in the Hall of Dreams or www.sarcar.com

Creation by Sarcar / Photo Marian Gérard

its tagline as Creator of Dreams.


NIXON TRIO TWO WATCHES FOR WORLD TRAVELLERS AND ONE FOR SOPHISTICATED LADIES by Carol Besler

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Cover showcases a host of new styles in 2013

SWISS QUALITY COMBINED WITH STYLE COVER RELEASES 11 NEW MODELS IN 2013 by William George Shuster

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he Swiss-made Cover watch brand, an annual BASELWORLD exhibitor, this year offers 11 new and exciting models, in a total of 50 versions. From elegant to classically sporty, its watches for men and women encompass various shapes, materials, and strong designs, and include a new line of chronographs. One among them is Piedra, 42.5 mm, a striking fashion statement for women of style. The round, PVD blackplated case is elegantly complemented by eye-catching Swarovski crystals in blue or black encircling the dial. Riding a slender, black leather strap, Piedra comes with a stylish lady’s Cover handbag.

Lumina, 36 x 36 mm, also addresses women with its creative combination of case and design. Colourful, sparkling Swarovski crystals enclose the square watch face, highlighting its mother-of-pearl dial. Leather straps in various trendy colours complement the watch. Aureus chronographs are designed for men and women. This new line features timepieces with large dials, date displays, thin stainless steel cases and sapphire crystals. The sporty Aureus Gent chrono, 44 mm, features a tachymeter for speed measurement on the dial’s outer ring, counts to 1/10th of a second, and is water-resistant to 100 metres. The watch is available in seven colour combinations, with stainless

Cover Aureus Lady.

Cover Lumina.

steel bracelet or stitched leather strap. The elegant, classically-styled Aureus Lady chrono, 38 mm, is decorated with sparkling Swarovski crystals, which are hour markers on the mother-of-pearl dial and adorn the bezel. The sophisticated timepiece is water-resistant to 50 metres and is available in 10 different colour combinations, with stainless steel bracelet (with folding clasp) or leather strap.

SOPHISTICATED AND TRENDY Cover watch is the house brand of Chrono AG, an independent familyowned company, established in 1981. Cover was launched in 1999 by Chrono AG to provide sophisticated, trendy, high-quality Swissmade timepieces at affordable prices. Today, Cover is an international brand, sold in 50 countries. The Cover collection consists of three watch lines: Expressions, Impressions, and Reflections. All timepieces are hand-manufactured with “Swiss-made” precision, diligence, and horological skill and tradition, using movements from renowned Swiss manufacturers ETA and Ronda. The watches are produced at Chrono AG’s headquarters (formerly the building of one of Switzerland’s first watchmaking schools) in Solothurn. 1.2, A53

he global watch and accessories brand for the youth lifestyle market has been exhibiting at BASELWORLD for some years now. In 2013, Nixon pulls out all the stops by demonstrating a wide range of watch types. The Passport, for instance, is a highly functional world timer with a unique bezel control that quickly adjusts for a second time zone in the city of choice. It contains a Swiss quartz movement. The case features a quick-adjust DST (Daylight Savings Time) pusher. The bezel, which incorporates a knurl texture for better grip, is marked with anodized aluminum set into the stainless steel bezel. The impressive 49 mm case is stainless steel, and the watch is water resistant to 100 metres. The new Diplomat Dual Time watch contains a Swiss made Ronda GMT quartz movement, with 24-hour time and date functions. The dial is surrounded by a concave ring with 24 hour markings. The watch is also stainless steel and water resistant to 200 metres. With a unidirectional bezel and a microadjustable strap, it can easily double as a professional diver’s watch. For the ladies, Nixon introduces the stainless steel and acetate Monarch, with a geometrically faceted bezel ring. The debutante contains a Miyota Japanese quartz movement, with a date window at 4 1.2, D01 o’clock.

Nixon Passport World Timer.

Nixon Diplomat Dual Time.

Nixon Monarch.

3 QUESTIONS, 3 ANSWERS “Looking forward to learning new ideas and inspirations” What role does the show play for Bandiera Jewellers?

BASELWORLD plays an important role. It presents us with opportunities to create new friendships and often we reconnect with old friends that we have not seen recently. This goes from meetings with business partners, planning marketing strategies, reviewing the latest novelties and placing product orders. What are you most eagerly looking forward to this year?

Visiting the newly constructed halls and building addition to BASELWORLD. Also to see what each of the brands’ window presentation displays are featuring.

Marco Bandiera, Bandiera Jewellers, Toronto, Canada.

What in particular are you looking for, both on the jewellery and watch side?

Always looking forward to learning new ideas and inspirations. With jewellery we look for additional brands or products that complement our existing boutique inventory as pieces that help complete some of our collections. For watches we are on the lookout for new interpretations and presentations of watches in terms of materials, complications.

ART Art collectors, this may interest you : RJ-Romain Jerome has quite literally blended contemporary art with horology by co-designing an exclusive collection with the internationally renowned Swiss artist, John M Armleder. This exceptional encounter has given rise to ten unique pieces conceived like veritable works of art. Interested ? Sorry, all the timepieces have already found a buyer…

HALL 1.1 / BOOTH A55 www.romainjerome.ch


NEWS

WELCOME TO THE CATWALK ESCADA SHOWCASES MODERN ELEGANCE, COOL GLAMOUR AND SENSUAL FEMININITY

HUGO BOSS presents the Deep Blue, a chronograph inspired by the sport of diving. With a case that’s watertight to ten atmospheres (100 metres), this neophyte is well suited to swimming and snorkelling. Sporty elegance distinguishes the midnightblack dial, which has a fine grid-like pattern. A unidirectionally rotatable bezel with a red minute-circle can be preset to indicate the intended diving time. The silicon wristband relies on the same colour scheme and keeps the 44 mm case securely fastened to its wearer’s wrist. The Deep Blue is also available in a black-and-white version. (sz) 1.2, B45

by Sabine Zwettler

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ASELWORLD is rightly regarded as the epicentre of haute horlogerie, but this show also provides a worthy stage for international fashion houses in the world of haute couture, thus underscoring the growing importance of designer brands in the watchmaking industry. Paying homage to modern women in particular and to femininity in general, Escada’s diverse collection builds a bridge between the realms of watches and fashion. Escada presents all nine of its watch lines at BASELWORLD.

STRAP TAKES CENTRE STAGE

Escada skilfully translates fine fashion characteristics to the wrist.

The new Florence line appealingly manifests this brand’s philosophy. Whereas wristbands primarily play a functional role for most wristwatches, the strap takes centre stage in this notably feminine timepiece. Its black leather wristlet has a quilted look and winds several times around the wearer’s wrist, where it transforms this watch into a fully fledged piece of jewellery for the foreEscada Florence.

WATCH TO WATCH

Escada Ivory.

arm. The rectangular dial likewise references this pattern from the world of fashion. Glittering indexes add special accents. The Ivory reaffirms the truth of the old adage which claims that opposites attract. This watch’s round case embodies a high-contrast union of cool stainless steel and warm yellow gold. The eyecatching bezel surrounds a shimmering silvery dial with Escada’s insignia and E-shaped logo. Alongside its new timepieces, Escada also showcases trendy pieces of jewellery. New writing implements from Escada are likewise on display at BASELWORLD. 1.2, C02

FASHION-FORWARD FESTINA THREE NEW MODELS IN CERAMIC FROM FESTINA by Carol Besler

T Ritmo Mundo Quantum Movement

Swiss Ronda 8040B, quartz Functions

hour, minute, second, chronograph, date Case material

stainless steel Case dimensions

50 mm

Special features

tachymeter scale, carbon fibre dial Place to watch: 1.1, E60

hree new models join the Festina Ceramic collection, the brand’s fashion-forward ladies’ line. The watches combine sophisticated ceramic with steel. In addition to hour and minute hands, there is an independent seconds hand in a small subdial at 6 o’clock. Sparkling zircons set in the bezel add a touch of sophistication to the F16637 model, which comes in either white or black ceramic. The F16657/1 model, also made of steel and ceramic, features zircons not only set into the bezel but also set into the round dial, for a fully glamorous finish. It is available in white ceramic only. The third new model, the F16639, is a multifunction watch, with a larger, 40 mm case and a chronograph function. It is waterresistant to 50 metres. 1.2, D31

Festina F16637/2.

Festina F16639/1.

ICELINK – The Zermatt collection features a case made of brushed titanium in a large format measuring 63.32 mm x 43.13 mm. It is divided into a grid featuring six functioning zones – five displaying the hour and minutes of New York, London, Dubai, Hong Kong, home zone, and one with the typical IceLink logo with rotating seconds. The four cities have an open disc with night/day indicators. Powered by special mechanical movement, the international dials simultaneously maintain five different time zones and have a power reserve of 48 hours. (cb) 2.2, A17

38 WATCHES THURSDAY, APRIL 25.2013 Police 30-year Anniversary Limited Edition.

EXTREME WATCH DESIGN

Police Hydro.

POLICE RELEASES NEW, EYE-CATCHING STYLES by Sabine Zwettler

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his lifestyle brand, which celebrates its 30th anniversary at this year’s show, presents an appealing and fashionable collection featuring a diverse cache of designs, extraordinary palettes of colour and a blend of juxtaposed fabrics. Police enjoys a longstanding reputation for extralarge styles and the savvy use of metallic finishes. The newest collection showcases forward-looking designs. Enhanced with coloured lenses, this season’s timepieces are further enlivened by the combination of hard and soft fabrics. Wide variety and many different options appeal to the tastes of younger wearers.

sary. The angular ion-plated black case surrounds a black sunray dial with a matching black, vertically brushed bezel highlighted by luminous green indices. Two extra-large numbers take centre stage on the unusual dial. The smooth and sleek

lines of the durable black rubber strap are further enhanced by an oversized luminous applied ‘P’ logo that reasserts this timepiece’s bold styling. This limited edition set comes with a matching grey dog-tag pendant. 1.2, C01

Sharply designed details take centre stage in Police’s watch collection this season.

COLOURS RULE The Hydro ranks among the most interesting releases at the show. Doubly layered plates support its cutting-edge design. The lower layer has a sharp black stamped pattern; the upper layer is grey with cut-outs to illuminate the time in the dark. The entire ensemble is intricately covered with either T-Blue 3110 or radiating T-Orange 151C lenses. The colour scheme continues with orange and blue aluminium plates in the case. The Hydro is affixed to a black rubber and silicon strap enhanced with leather textures. The wristband is water-resistant to 30 metres. Police created a special limited edition to celebrate its 30th anniver-

NEWS

30 YEARS OF THE LEGEND

MADE FOR ADVENTURE

SWATCH CELEBRATES ANNIVERSARY AT BASELWORLD

TIMBERLAND DEBUTS NEW OUTDOOR WATCH

by Sabine Zwettler

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GLAM ROCK – As its name suggests, the new ladies’ collection Bal Harbour is inspired by the luxury lifestyle of Miami and expresses feminity. The Bal Harbour GR77018 features a silver sunray dial with a refined rose gold floral design. A Swiss-made quartz movement ticks behind it and and ensures exact timekeeping. The watch comes in a 40 mm stainless steel case coated with rose IP. (sz) 1.2, C53

irst launched 30 years ago, the Swatch revolutionised the world of watches. With its plastic case, this quartz watch debuted in 1983 and embodied a totally new concept of the Swiss watch. Swatch wristwatches have provided plenty of fun for collectors ever since. It goes without saying that this iconic model would unveil a very special version for its 30th anniversary. Instead of numerals, the dial of the Swatch Est. 1983 from the New Gent line portrays the numbers of the years since the debut of the first Swatch. The numbers are grouped around the movement, which is coated with golden-coloured PVD and visible at the centre. 1.0, A100

Swatch Est. 1983.

by Sabine Zwettler

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imberland’s Brookline combines timing performance with essential outdoor needs by indicating the time and date in a robust, yet trendy way. Its wide and clear dial offers perfect readability. Beige-coloured hands and markers stand clearly out against the gun metal background and can even be read at night, thanks to a strong luminescent coating. Measuring fully 47 mm in diameter, the watch giant comes with an ion-plated gun metal bezel with imprinted cardinal directions. The dark green leather strap with imprinted Timberland Tree logo ensures a high wearing comfort. The watch is also available with a grey leather strap and a grey dial, with a light brown leather strap and a black dial, or with a dark brown leather strap and a beige-coloured dial. 1.2, C01

Timberland Brookline.

Photo : Alexandre Issard

Rodania Swiss Chic collection · Model ‘Elios Silk’ · Ref. 25057.22 · Ronda 751 Swiss Quartz movement · Stainless steel case Ø 28 mm · Extra white mother-of-pearl dial · 1 full cut diamond 0,0049 ct · Pink silky leather strap · Sapphire crystal · WR 5 ATM www.rodania.com · [email protected] ·

facebook.com/RodaniaWatches

HAll 1.2 STAnd B03

Hall 1.2 / Booth D13 - E13


SURFACE TIME

Max Büsser is one of the most interesting contemporary watchmakers.

RESSENCE INTRODUCES HANDLESS, CROWNLESS MECHANICAL WATCH FILLED WITH LIQUID by Elizabeth Doerr

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ounder Benoît Mintiens is not a watchmaker by trade, but rather a designer. Therefore it should come as no surprise that the outside-the-box-thinker’s timepieces are anything but ordinary. And as impossible as it seems, his third creation, Type 3 (nicknamed Le Scaphandrier), which launches here at BASELWORLD, is even more extraordinary than his previous creations – which themselves caused quite a sensation in the watch world. Type 3 continues the concept of the handless time display and extends it into even newer territory: the indications are now found inside a “bubble” crafted in anti-reflective sapphire crystal. The mechanical movement comprising 28 gears and 57 jewels is contained in a compartment filled with a naphtha-type (hydrocarbon-infused) liquid, which provides it with an index of refraction similar to that of the sapphire crystal, greatly minimising reflection and “tricking” the brain into eliminating the impression of depth. A thermal valve automatically adjusts for any expansion or contraction of the fluid and micro magnetic fields transmit information from the movement to the SuperLumiNova-coated indications. These patented innovations are contained in a 44 mm case fully comprising Grade 5 titanium and sapphire crystal. The automatic movement and its unique case comprise 407 total components, 287 of which are found in Mintiens’ patented module, which integrates three off-centre biaxial satellites inclined at 3° and 4.75°. The purity of the design is accentuated by the absence of a conventional 0.F, P03 crown.

MB&F RELEASES HM3 MEGAWIND A PERFECT EXAMPLE FOR UNUSUAL HOROLOGICAL CREATIONS

by Roberta Naas

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ear after year, Max Büsser and his team and watchmaking friends, release incredible new timepieces under the MB&F (Max Büsser and Friends) brand name. This year is no exception. Stemming from the brand’s bold HM3 series (which was originally designed by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht), the new HM3 series Megawind watch, features an oversized 22K gold and titanium winding rotor, and highly legible time indication cones that display hours and minutes, with the time visible from the sides of the cones, as well as from duplicate indications on their flat caps. The Megawind watch is powered by the inverted movement of the HM3, which consists of 270 components. The watch case, which consists of more than 50 parts, features hour and minute domes machined from aluminium (for ultra-light weight). The threedimensional cones are then brazed together via a high-temperature soldering technique.

MECHANICAL BEAUTY Type 3 represents a quest for simplicity. Nicknamed Le Scaphandrier, Type 3 provides extreme legibility.

MB&F HM3 Megawind.

The larger sized rotor with two 22K gold blades in the MB&F battle-axe configuration was the concept of independent watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva (who was a co-creator of

the MB&F MoonMachine). Sarpaneva also named the larger rotor Megawind. The mysterious beauty of the rotor is achieved by machining the underside of one of the blades to a super-slim edge to reduce its mass.

TEAMWORK The new watch had several “friends” responsible for its coming to fruition. Max Büsser developed the concept; Eric Giroud was responsible for the product design; MB&F’s Serge Kriknoff handled the technical and production management, while Guillaume Thevenin was in charge of research and development. The movement, as mentioned, was developed by Wiederrecht and Nicolas Stalder of Agenhor. Others involved include Stefano Macaluso of Sowind, and at least another near two dozen people/companies. The collaborative work of art and precision is being built in 18K rose gold with a 22K rose gold rotor, and in 18K white gold with a sky blue 22K gold rotor. Also making its worldwide debut at BASELWORLD is the Horological Machine HM4 Final Edition, which takes direct inspiration from stealth aircraft. This watch marks the end of the HM4 era for the brand. When the original

HM4 Thunderbolt was launched three years ago, MB&F insisted that just 100 HM4 movements would ever be manufactured. To date, 92 have been created – translating to the final eight movements that will go into the HM4 Final Edition. Created in high-tech titanium with black PVD with both matt and shiny surfaces, the watch houses the unique 311-component HM4 engine. The sleek aerodynamic form of HM4 has its roots in Maxi-

milian Büsser’s childhood passion for assembling model plane kits, though none looked remotely as futuristic as these. The striking transparent sapphire section for the case requires over 185 hours of machining and polishing. Two mainspring barrels connected in parallel provide 72 hours of energy and they transfer their power to the dual jet-turbine-like indication pods via vertical gear trains. Just eight will be made. 0.F, P01

IN PERSON: MAX BÜSSER Max Büsser became well known in the watch world in 1998 as the 31-year-old CEO of Harry Winston Rare Timepieces; his creative brain came up with the acclaimed Opus series – which for the first time paired independent creators with a bigname brand in a transparent way. His first position in haute horlogerie after graduating with a master’s in micro-technology engineering was with Jaeger-LeCoultre, where he spent seven years in senior management under Günter Blümlein. Büsser resigned from Harry Winston in 2005 to found MB&F. (ed)

Max Büsser, CEO of MB&F.

44 MARKETS THURSDAY, APRIL 25.2013

THE ASIAN TIGER IN BASEL

HONG KONG REMAINS THE LARGEST INTERNATIONAL PRESENCE by Axel Henselder

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or many years now the far eastern metropolis Hong Kong has been the largest international presence at the BASELWORLD. This year, once again, the pavilion organised by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council is the largest among guest countries, with 184 companies and 5,500 square metres. The tiger city is also appearing in Hall 4 for the first time. The Asian metropolis on the Pearl river is bursting with energy and confidence. The year of the snake that began in February promises to be a good one. After all, Hong Kong remains the gateway to the enormous Chinese domestic market, which continues to boom unabated. Luxury goods sell particularly well in the middle kingdom. And: the Hong Kong-based companies are tenacious, combining the best characteristics of western and Asian cultures. No wonder the figures look so good. Hong Kong exports of premium jewellery increased by 14.3 percent in 2012, to reach 6.8 billion US dollars. The USA and Europe were the main sales markets for genuine jewellery, with 47 percent. Imports of premium jewellery into Hong Kong were 16.9 percent below the figures of the previous year in 2012 (12 billion US dollars).

HONG KONG REMAINS LEADING EXPORTER OF WATCHES In the export of watches Hong Kong once again saw an increase of 7.9 percent in 2012, to 9.5 billion US dollars. The most important markets were the USA, followed by Switzerland, China, Japan, Macao and Germany. Overall, one third of exports went to the USA and Europe. Whilst the USA saw growth of five percent, exports to the EU fell three percent below those of the previous year.

Hong Kong in 2012, an increase of 13.2 percent. Exports of German watches to Hong Kong rose 14.3 percent to 121 million US dollars in 2012. Hong Kong therefore remains one of the leading exporters of watches worldwide. The highest share of sales was battery-powered wristwatches, at 50 percent. Around nine percent of exports were accounted for by watch components such as straps, dials and cases.

LEADING BRANDS PRESENT AGAIN

Ornamental diamond pendant from Vista Jewelry Ltd.

Reminiscent of an opened flower: the 18 karat white and pink gold ring with brilliant-cut diamonds from Kings View Jewellery Ltd.

In 2012 Switzerland imported watches worth 1.5 billion US dollars from Hong Kong (+ 12.4 percent). In the same period the country exported watches to the value of 5.1 billion US dollars to Hong Kong (+ 6.9 percent), heading the table of importers into Hong Kong once again. Germany imported watches totalling 490 million US dollars from

As the move from Hall 6 to Hall 4 has resulted in less hall space being available, the number of exhibitors this year has fallen from 239 to 184. Of these 95 represent the jewellery industry (2012: 116), 67 the watch sector (2012: 94) and 12 (2012: 19) packaging materials. The number of suppliers of watch components remains unchanged at ten. Diamonds are becoming increasingly significant for the Hong Kong jewellery manufacturers, both as investments and as gifts for special, emotional occasions. Alongside classic and multiple-carat solitaires there are also coloured variants, worked into opulent rings, necklaces and chandeliers. Multiple smaller stones set in a way that lends them the appearance of a solitaire also make this dream jewellery affordable for the smaller pocket. Whereas white gold and platinum were previously in demand as settings, there is now an increasing move towards yellow gold and bicolour variants with pink and white gold, such as the models from BK Jewellery and Trigrand. These lend a highly youthful appearance to diamond jewellery. The highest craftsmanship can be seen, for example, in an opulent ring from King’s View Jewellery, which is

reminiscent of an opened flower. Pink and white gold are worked in a way that further enhances the brilliance of the diamonds. The precious bracelets from Wing Fung Jewellery remain classic and ever popular, featuring rows of diamonds. Contemporary and ingenious designs remain in demand for gold with coloured gemstones. For example, EJI offers a chain in 18K yellow gold with a pendant in which a large, speciallycut citrine and brilliant-cut diamonds are set in a way that recalls a perfume bottle. Goldiaq Creation also delivers a perfect colourful combination of gemstones and diamonds, embedded in 18K gold, combining three rings to make an unusual statement, for example. Pearls in various forms and colours are individual and unique. For example, Wing Hang Diamond encases a large South Seas pearl in diamond bands to form a unique ring. Wing Wo Hing Jewelry embeds pearls in hip designs, creating a youthful look. At Rio Pearl dark pearls are surrounded with a crown of coloured gemstones, giving them the appearance of an unfolding blossom.

Greenland Watch Limited focus on black and white contrasts and clear lines with this model.

VERSATILE MIX OF MATERIALS FOR WATCHES Materials such as ceramic, titanium, carbon, palladium and precious metals are mixed together for today’s timepieces or utilised in their pure form for classic to sporty models. Sun Tai Watch, for example, combines strong colour contrasts with aluminium, stainless steel and high-quality rubber to form a distinctive design. Greenland Watch employs black and white contrasts and clear forms in its models. Medix Quartz is known for its complex mechanisms. Amongst other models, the company offers wristwatches with tourbillon, 24-hour format and moon phase, water resistant up to 5 bar. For fans of classic watches the ultrathin wristwatch with leather strap (4.99 mm) from Trade Mix is an alternative. In the coming season younger consumers favour colour, such as the completely pink, lilac or mint aluminium watches from Owago.

Sporty with strong colour contrasts and material mix: the watch from Sun Tai Watch Co Ltd.

46 MARKETS THURSDAY, APRIL 25.2013

SWATCH GROUP GOES SHOPPING LARGEST WATCH MANUFACTURER ACQUIRES PRESTIGIOUS JEWELLER HARRY WINSTON by Axel Henselder

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THE HEAVENS ARE SMILING ON BASELWORLD SWISS WATCH INDUSTRY BENEFITS FROM BOOM IN FAR EAST by Axel Henselder

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he BASELWORLD 2013 marks the beginning of a new era, thanks to the spectacular new structure that has been erected. Top jewellers around the globe are currently enjoying sparkling business results – and the show promises to be a festival of the superlative. Those wanting to know how BASELWORLD 2013 is likely to progress need not turn to a crystal ball. It is enough to merely take a look at how the worldwide market for luxury goods is currently faring. According to a study conducted by the US consultants Bain & Company and the Italian organisation Altagamma, the global market for luxury goods grew by around 10 percent in the past year, to 212 billion euros. With this, sales of luxury goods have increased in double-digit terms for the third year in a row. Sectors displaying particularly strong growth include accessories and watches, with growth of 14 percent each, followed by jewellery (+13 percent).

CHINESE THE ENGINE FOR GROWTH IN LUXURY GOODS Customers from China are driving the strong growth in the market for luxury goods. According to the study by Bain and Altagamma, half

of all luxury purchases in Asia are made by the Chinese. And as tourists they are also responsible for nearly a third of sales in Europe. Re-export via the shop counter is booming. High taxes on luxury goods in the middle kingdom make souvenirs from Europe real bargains. In total, every fourth consumer of luxury goods is from China. China has consequently already overtaken the Japanese market for all that is good and expensive. It occupies second place, directly behind the USA. And the future prospects are sunny. According to the experts the luxury goods market is set to grow by an annual four to six percent from 2013 to 2015. This corresponds to a global sales volume of 240 to 250 billion euros.

SWISS IN BUBBLY MOOD The Swiss watch companies are benefiting from this development particularly strongly, with their share of the global market for timepieces around 55 percent, according to value. According to the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry FH in Biel, the Swiss sold fewer timepieces in 2012 than in the previous year – a total of 29.1 million wristwatches (-2.2 percent). However, expensive models were in particular demand. Exports increased by 2.1 billion Swiss francs

25% 20% 15% 10% 5% 0% FEB12

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12 months moving average of increases in value of Swiss watch exports.

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(1.7 billion euros) to the new record value of 21.4 billion Swiss francs. This corresponds to growth of 10.9 percent. Experts expect to see growth of “only” eight percent in 2013, corresponding to the longterm average and a return to normality. Crisis-hit Europe was the largest driver of growth in 2012 by some margin. Sales of watches grew by 17 percent, as in the luxury goods market as a whole, as a result of Chinese tourists. In China itself growth stood at just four percent. In Hong Kong, the largest sales market for Swiss watches at 4.37 billion Swiss francs, growth stood at a modest 6.8 percent. Sales to Germany grew by 33.1 percent to some 1.2 billion Swiss francs, the largest increase amongst export destinations last year. Here too, free-spending travellers from China were largely responsible for the growth in sales. China, if Hong Kong is also included, is now responsible for one third of sales of Swiss precision watches. When tourist shoppers are included the share rises to 50 percent. However, the first signs of slowing growth are already apparent. The latest figures of the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry for February indicate a decline of almost one third compared to the previous month for the Chinese business. Exports to Hong Kong fell by 24.4 percent. Noteworthy here again were the exports to Germany, which grew by 19.9 percent, and to the USA, which increased by 6.1 percent. Overall, the Swiss watch industry recorded a slight deficit of 2.5 percent, whereas the increase for January was still 10.8 percent. Bestsellers are watches priced at 3,000 Swiss francs and above, and the new, glamorous setting of the BASELWORLD as a temple of luxury is more than justified.

he Swatch Group, the world’s largest watch manufacturer, is riding an impressive wave of success. In the past business year sales rose by 14 percent, to 8.1 billion Swiss francs (6.7 billion euros). This is 1 billion francs more than in the previous fiscal year. The watch and jewellery segment made up the largest portion of total turnover, with 7.3 billion Swiss francs. This share grew by 15.6 percent compared to the preceding year. This year analysts expect to see further growth of 5 percent. Profits increased to 1.6 billion Swiss francs. In the People’s Republic of China the Swatch Group recorded turnover of 2.87 billion Swiss francs, 200 million more than in the previous year. Despite clear growth in the European area, China subsequently remains the largest single market for the group, with net sales more significant there than in the whole of Europe including Switzerland. With such a positive outlook the Swiss have little trouble in freeing up a total of 1 billion US dollars to acquire luxury jeweller Harry Winston. With this, the group has a brand with a long history in the jewellery field. The Swatch Group is therefore keeping pace with competitors LVMH, which acquired the Italian jewellery manufacturer Bul-

gari, and the Richemont Group, which swallowed up Cartier. At Richemont the jewellery sector already accounts for more than half of the total group result, with sales of 9 billion euros. In the first nine months of the business year, Harry Winston recorded sales of some 315 million US dollars. The acquisition did not include the diamond mining operations, which will operate in future as Dominion Diamond Corporation, maintaining close contact with the Swatch Group. According to Swatch boss Nick Hayek, cooperation here will include the processing of diamonds. Harry Winston operates 22 boutiques and a manufacturing facility in Geneva.

Harry Winston showroom in New York City.

HOW’S BUSINESS?

Franz Türler, Sr., Türler Uhren und Juwelen

“The Basel show is enormously important for the industry, individual businessmen and entrepreneurs: everyone can meet one another. Alongside the incomparable networking factor, a huge role is naturally also played by the new items, which are sources of great pleasure each year.”

BRand FacT 48% of Invicta customers own 10 or more Invicta timepieces.

The Invicta Bolt Zeus Reserve invictawatch.com

HALL 1.2 . BOOTHS E53 & E60

JEWELLERY THURSDAY, APRIL 25.2013

Svetlana Kuprianova, CEO of Carrera y Carrera.

tion for the year, among other new items. And it’s also when we have the opportunity to meet our most important retailers and to present the new products to representatives of the global press. What do you expect from the BASELWORLD 2013? We expect to be able to impress both customers and press with our new stand of around 250 square metres. This is a considerable investment, but we feel it is worth it because it will also help us to continue developing the brand as one of the 30 most important jewellery brands in the world.

Red and gold are the favoured colours at the booth of Carrera y Carrera.

LET´S GO EAST RENOWNED SPANISH JEWELLERY MANUFACTURE CARRERA Y CARRERA IS FOCUSING ON THE FAR EAST

Carrera y Carrera Bambú.

Interview by Axel Henselder

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ussian Svetlana Kuprianova is the new CEO of Carrera y Carrera. BWDN spoke to her about the new products that the traditional brand has on display in Basel. BWDN: How was business in the last year? Svetlana Kuprianova: 2012 was again a good year for Carrera y Carrera. Russia, the USA, Spain and the Middle East are among our main markets and all of them grew during 2012. Our collections and designs are highly appreciated in Asia and during 2013/2014 we will further develop the Asian market. We are currently in contact with local distributors in countries like Singapore, Thailand, Malaysia and China to undertake a faster development of the brand. In addition to this, our distribution in the U.S.

market and duty free has become increasingly important in recent years with regard to both the number of points of sale and volume of sales, this is set to consolidate further.

Carrera y Carrera Circulos de Fuego.

Which collections were your bestsellers? Of course our main collection for 2012, Música. The Melodía ring has become one of our bestselling pieces. However, we shouldn’t forget that we had a huge success last year with our classic collection, Círculos de Fuego. We released new pieces for this collection to coincide with the Chinese Year of the Dragon and all of them performed pretty well. This collection features all of Carrera y Carrera’s trademark characteristics: figurative style, mini sculpture on gold and matt and polish finish. How important is the BASELWORLD for you? BASELWORLD is one of the most important times of the year for Carrera y Carrera. We started exhibiting at the show back in 1977. This is where we present our main collec-

A SENSUAL ENIGMA MY LITTLE MYSTERY FROM MEISSEN, FOR THE MODERN WOMAN

What are your main new collections for Basel this year? We are presenting a new collection that is named Tesoros del Imperio. Inspiration comes this time from the Spanish Golden Age, a period of flourishing arts and literature in Spain. We’ve been inspired by the paintings from this time of Spanish painters like Velázquez, which form part of the impressive art gallery of the Prado Museum in Madrid. Inspiration has been mainly taken from the clothes people are wearing in these paintings. What else do you have in your show luggage? We have a huge surprise that we think will be much appreciated by both customers and press. Manuel Carrera, founder of the brand, has designed another very special collection for Carrera y Carrera, one which marks a return to the brand’s roots. This new collection is a true tribute to Carrera y Carrera’s origins adapted to the 21st century. Manuel Carrera will be at our stand on Saturday to join customers and press in toasting the past, present and future of his beloved baby: Carrera y Carrera. 1.1, D33

My little Mystery

by Axel Henselder

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y Little Mystery is the name of the new collection from Meissen Joaillerie. The pieces are delicate and feminine in appearance. Ornella Pasquetti designs the jewellery for the manufacture. In the process the Italian looked into the historic archives of the company, combining these elements with the style of

modern women. “The thing that impresses me most is the magical colours that the porcelain manufacture has created over the course of the centuries,” says the designer. Colour subsequently plays an important role in the new collection. The focus here is upon gentle hues. Forms, too, are discreet, with small rectangles and ovals. Porce-

lain continues to play a key role, naturally. The essential element here: small diamonds are embedded directly into the porcelain, providing for a highly attractive and decorative effect. Ornella Pasquetti says: “I have dedicated My Little Mystery to modern women on

the move, who wish to lend themselves a touch of vibrant femininity and colour. In addition, the pieces are also more reasonably priced, making them more affordable for younger people.” 1.1, E01

HIGHLIGHTS 50 ARABIAN NIGHTS

Roberto Coin pays homage to symbols of great tradition by presenting artistic treasures from his country.

52 120 YEARS OF SUCCESS

Celebrating the anniverssary of the defining moment – the foundation of Mikimoto’s masterpieces of pearl jewellery

62 ENJOY THE ATMOSPHERE

The great potential of Italian signature brands is found in the attention to detail.

67 UNIQUE PIECES

Precious gemstones and highend designs unite in the dazzling unique creations at BASELWORLD.

NEWS HARRY WINSTON has been inspired by the particular colour and clear impression of glacial ice for the Aquamarine Glacier ring. After years of compression glacial ice often appears intense blue, because tiny air pockets have been forced out between the ice crystals. The platinum ring is set with 69 diamonds, an emerald cut aquamarine of 19.28 carats, 4 sapphires and 4 Paraïba tourmalines, and it ought to grace the finger of a lady. (nh) 1.1, D51

SCHOE FFE L has expanded the immensely successful Classic Collection of the company, by the addition of several colourful and voluminous Happy Day rings. The South Sea and Tahiti cultured pearls set in either 18 karat rose gold or white gold are surrounded by gemstones such as turquoises-coloured diamonds, amethysts, fancy coloured sapphires and colourless and black diamonds. (nh) 1.1, A01

50 JEWELLERY THURSDAY, APRIL 25.2013

NEWS

CREATURES OF WHIMSY

Roberto Coin, founder.

LIGHT-HEARTED AND FUNNY, LOVEABLE SMALL FIGURINES CONTINUE TO CHARM by Nina Hald

BIZZOTTO GIOEILLI’S Forget Me Not collection of lovely flower rings – a delicate bouquet being the best way to deliver a message of sincere love – has been enriched with additional rings set in 18 karat gold – embellished with diamond pavé, sapphires and square-cut centre stones, such as aquamarine, amethyst, opal or topaz. The beautiful colours tell the story of ancient cultures, where femininity and romance are the eternal sources of inspiration for goldsmiths. (nh) 2.1, C01

Schoeffel Best Friends ring. de Grisogono Teddy Bear ring.

A JEWELLER BY VOCATION SUMPTUOUS NEW CREATIONS FROM THE GREAT ITALIAN JEWELLER ROBERTO COIN Interview by Roberto Chilleri

VIVENTY – Pastel colours, romantic flair and a dash of lightness are characteristics of the new collection from Viventy. The new designs for spring/ summer 2013 are delicate, intricate and wonderfully beautiful. Particularly noteworthy are the necklace and matching earrings with the new floral cut-out design: the combination of 925 sterling silver and pink gold deliver a charmingly feminine contrast. (ah) 2.1, K19

ESCADA is presenting romantic messages of love. The shiny silver ensemble of a necklace and earrings in rhodium-plated brass appears graceful and playful while the heart pendant is seductive with its filigree design. One half of the heart is dedicated to the characteristic Escada design while the other half features only the contours of the heart. Zirconia stones bring sparkle to the necklace. The earrings also incorporate the design of the heart pendant. The small hearts are suspended on a filigree chain while the clasp is set with a zirconia stone. (cete) 1.2, C02

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hanks to its production capacity that encompasses both exclusive handcrafted production and the most advanced technology, this Vicenzabased jewellery brand is presenting lots of new creations and some real masterpieces at BASELWORLD. Roberto Coin also emphasises the importance of ethics in the world of jewellery and precious stones. BWDN: This year your jewellery is being exhibited in a stand straight out of the Arabian Nights. Can you tell us details? Roberto Coin: We wanted to do something that would live up to the prestige of our brand, which has headed the field in Italian jewellery production for many years.

Yes. We opened our most recent shop in the Mall of Emirates in Dubai, and we will soon be opening franchises in Kuwait and probably in the Ukraine. The international market is going through a bit of a difficult time and this is precisely why we need to be so proactive. You haven’t held back in your new collections either. I think you’re referring to our beautiful limited edition collection, which features a spectacularly realistic-looking elephant… However, this is just the tip of the iceberg. We

In 2012 you made unique pieces dedicated to the Dragon, while this year you have created a wonderful set to celebrate the year of the Snake. Are these strategic or stylistic decisions? We are paying homage to symbols of a great tradition, but we are targeting a universal clientele. Moreover, animal subjects and fine jewellery are a perfect combination. We interpret these symbols through our own Italian culture, which deserves to be promoted in every field. In addition to jewellery, our boutiques will soon also be presenting other artistic treasures from our country, such as paintings, sculptures and fabrics. Are you going to carry on opening new shops?

Elephant Limited Edition Collection.

have created more than five hundred new models. We are also presenting the new versions of the Primavera stretch bracelets: this is our bestseller, in fact we sold almost 18,000 in 2012. And then we have our Moi Pois and Florentine lines, which pay homage to the history of our company that initially specialised in working gold only, with no precious stones. I believe this market segment is truly lacking in top quality products. You were one of the first to launch charity initiatives and you are also a member of the World Diamond Council, which promoted the Kimberly Process… Social responsibility is absolutely essential. A cultural evolution is needed in our sector, bringing transparency to the precious stones and metals industry. Respect for people and their work is fundamental. You worked in another sector in the past, before becoming a jeweller. Is this something you would do again? When I was young I had a hotel on the island of Guernsey in the United Kingdom. I changed profession because I love art in all its forms and I love my country. This is why I will always be a jeweller and why I do not just ensure that our headquarters stay in Italy, but also our two manufacturing plants in Vicenza and Valenza Po. 1.1, D09

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n the shape of tempting fruits or playful animals, like small characters of a cartoon or a fairytale, these enchanting jewellery creations steal hearts and smiles around the halls of BASELWORLD. The company with the perhaps largest collection of beguiling characters is American Aaron Basha. From cheerful critters in rainbow coloured enamel tones, to superheroes, treat yourself to some of the most delightful creations to date. Aliens with lovable expressions, adventurous, seafaring pirates, and eye-popping monsters all captivate us with their innocence and charm. The chic factor is only matched by the cuteness of the pieces. Fearless and fruity, Chopard dazzles with a pineapple ring with yellow sphenes; enough to make everyone crave a trip to the beach, enjoying some fun in the summer sun. De Grisogono goes for the huggable Teddy Bear ring, that hangs on to his South Sea cultured pearl for dear life, proving once again that there is something singularly suited about pearls for this most humoristic category of jewellery. Pearls seem destined to play a whimsical part of figurative jewellery. Schoeffel continues to explore inspirations of the sea in the collection entitled Best Friends, this time around with a dolphin to follow up on the whale from last year. Whether a pineapple or a football player, the whimsical continues to inspire some of the cutest creations.

Chopard pineapple ring.


NEWS

MIKIMOTO’S METHOD THE RICH HISTORY AND ABOUNDING LEGACY OF MIKIMOTO IS CELEBRATED AT BASELWORLD

DE GRISOGONO’S signature Allegra collection from 2008 gets a playful whip of leather with two new bracelet additions with small charms. With that, the abstract and powerful collection of rings, bangles, earrings and pendants are completed with a new category. This orange leather cord features a pink gold element set with brown diamonds, orange and rose sapphires – just like we know and love the Allegra collection. (nh) 1.1, D39

by Nina Hald

Piece from the Wedding collection.

Mikimoto showcases one-of-a-kind pieces and most exquisite pearls in Hall 1.

CHETÉ – inspires us all to ”hear, feel and enjoy” with their collections. By being aware of our senses, we get to express ourselves and connect with our inner joy. The Click Clack collection is all about natural simplicity and the wonders of childhood, combining beautiful gemstones with sterling silver in playful jewellery. The necklaces are trendy and mischievous – and the wearer can feel and hear the playful interaction of the gems with every move – hence the “click” and “clack”. (nh) 2.1 J90

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t was in 1893, after years of setbacks, that Kokichi Mikimoto with the support of his family and wife Ume succeeded in culturing a semispherical pearl. He had pledged himself to protect and raise stocks of Akoya pearl oysters, depleted at the time by over-fishing, and to grow pearls with these oysters. Many long years were spent in trialand-error experiments that were viewed with intense public scepticism. But even though plagued by financial difficulties and repeated damage from red algae blooms, Mikimoto overcame the odds and at last succeeded in culturing pearls on Ojima Island (now known as

Mikimoto Pearl Island) at Toba. This was a defining moment; an achievement that also formed the foundation of today’s Mikimoto.

A PERFECT PEARL After culturing the semi-spherical pearl, it took Kokichi Mikimoto more than a decade of hard work until he succeeded in producing a perfectly spherical pearl. In his endeavours to make the beauty of cultured pearls more widely appreciated, Kokichi Mikimoto exhibited masterpieces of pearl jewellery and Akoya shell specimens at international expositions throughout the world, attaining worldwide recognition for his pearls – and became known as the “King of

BRAND INVESTMENT

Kokichi Mikimoto (1858 - 1954).

Pearls” during the process. One of Today, Mikimoto celebrates 120 the showpieces was the strikingly years of rich heritage and a longoriginal Yaguruma sash clip, and in standing tradition of producing the 1939 Mikimoto created the pearlworld’s most exquisite pearls by studded Liberty Bell, shown at the unveiling new collections at BASELNew York World’s WORLD. Rare Fair – activities that stones and prewere very well cious metals are received both at combined in innohome and abroad. vative ways to creKokichi Mikimoto ate one-of-a-kind singlehandedly crepieces that showated an industry case the natural around his wish to and alluring splen“adorn the necks of dour of the pearl. all women of the Make sure to pass This was Kokichi Mikimoto’s dream world with pearls” by Mikimoto’s celfor decades, and he devoted his as he famously proebration of style in entire life to pearls, in the quest claimed. style. 1.1, C09 for beauty.

“I would like to adorn the necks of all the women of the world with pearls.”

Luce ring, in rose gold and smoky quartz.

MATTIOLI FOCUSES ON THE FLAGSHIP LABEL Interview by Roberto Chilleri

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real source of pride and joy for this family from Turin, which owns one of Italy’s most important jewellery industries and has continued working with some of the biggest names in the sector despite selling off a branch of the company. Headed by Licia Mattioli, chairwoman of the Federazioni Industriali Orafi Italiani and the Unione Industriale di Torino. BWDN: Mattioli Spa owns the 1 TO hallmark, the first issued in Turin by the Italian state… Licia Mattioli: Our production capacity has enabled us to win the trust of extremely prestigious clients. We have also taken advantage of our private label activity with a view to ongoing improvement. Our new

plant in Turin now boasts a design department that is a real hotbed of ideas, a laboratory with a great capacity for handcrafted production, the most advanced industrial technology and the requisite quality standards for operating at the very top. The design of your new stand at BASELWORLD matches that of your Rome boutique. Are you continuing to invest in your brand? Yes, the style is inspired by Art Déco, as are the colours and materials: we opted for black and white, parchment and lacquer. The shop is just outside Piazza di Spagna, a place I have always loved. As well as being a question of love, it’s also a matter of prestige: we take the prestige of our brand very seriously,

Licia Mattioli

even when it comes to choosing our retailers.

pleasure-seeking lifestyle that epitomises the city of Turin.

Can you give me some names? Neiman Marcus, Tsum, Les Ambassadeurs and Hollfelder, as well as Slaets in Antwerp and Rabat in Barcelona. We took part in the Italian Jewellery Festival in Tokyo, which was a great success, and we have a number of shop-in-shops in the prestigious Ginza district.

Do you have anything to say about the latest collections? Yes, they are our top priority… We are presenting a new line of one-of-akind jewellery, continuing along a path we embarked upon less than two years ago. We are also continuing our more typically Mattioli-style jewellery lines, which are sophisticated and elegant, for day and night. Although the styles are still those of the 1970s, they have been revisited in a contemporary key, with a touch of minimalism that ranges from the almost architectural forms of the Luce collection to the more intimate dimension of the other big new line for this year, Circle of Life. 2.2, H81

Mattioli belongs to the Exclusive Brands Torino association, which promotes companies from your city. Yes, together with other top-of-therange brands, from sailing to fashion, wines and chocolates, all with one thing in common: the elegant,

JEWELLERY 55 THURSDAY, APRIL 25.2013

Gucci’s luxurious stand in the Hall of Global Brands.

Iconic and legendary Bamboo collection.

THE ICONIC BAMBOO GUCCI COMBINES MODERNISM AND HERITAGE, FASHION AND ELEGANCE by Nina Hald

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o matter the occasion or the outfit, Gucci Jewelry’s Bamboo line for women remains a favourite, sure to complement the ladies looking for a fashionable jewellery expression.

The Bamboo is one of the most iconic of the motifs from the Florentine house of Gucci, with a history dating back to the Second World War. More than seventy years ago, innovative in-house artisans turned to bamboo during times of material

shortages, thus creating the striking, and now legendary Bamboo that is still going strong. Creative Director Frida Giannini later translated this motif into a jewellery line, which today comprises bracelets, necklaces, rings and earrings, all

handcrafted by highly skilled Italian goldsmiths. Some of these are made in the image of bamboo – pieces worked in 18 karat yellow, white or pink gold, engraved with the Gucci signature; other jewellery creations are actually made with bamboo. A common denominator for the jewellery collection is the possibility for individual styling choice. The bracelets are available in three widths (wide, medium or thin), and they can be paired with a choice of large or small Bamboo hoop earrings. In addition, a selection of white gold items has been worked into precious varieties, adorned with colourless brilliant cut diamonds. These include the wide and medium-sized Bamboo bracelets,

embellished with 220 (4.65 carats) or 180 (2.34 carats) diamonds, respectively. The Bamboo pendant dazzles with several diamond segments, whilst the precious ring displays 27 diamonds. Finally, the small hoop earrings also feature a pavé of 30 brilliant cut diamonds. As one of the most reliable and consistent fashion jewellery and watch brands, with a distinct focus on design inspired by bamboo, Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry has chosen to collaborate on a large-scale replanting scheme to help restore the ecosystem in Ningxia, in the northwestern part of China, in partnership with Chinese actress and supporter of environmental causes, Li Bingbing, ambassadress of the brand. 1.0, D49

NEWS Monique Jongmans, General Manager, Choices by DL Raw Elegance Collection, in brushed yellow gold.

MIX & MATCH NEW BRAND CHOICES BY DL SHOWS AT BASELWORLD FOR FIRST TIME

Interview by David Brough

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rand manager Debora Leeser says to BWDN “mix and match” jewels make Choices by DL unique. BWDN: Which new collections does Choices by DL present at BASELWORLD? Debora Leeser: We have beautiful new items in different colours of gold, with many semi precious stones. The colours are coral, green, turquoise, yellow – and many others. The latest line is the Raw Elegance collection from Choices by DL, only available in 18 karat brushed yellow gold. This is less shiny than polished gold and gives it a very nice hippie chic look. All items from the Choices by DL

collection are interchangeable. That means you can change the colour of the golden frames and the semi-precious stones. So you can “mix and match” any way you like. This is a worldwide patented system. For Choices by DL, this year is the first time to exhibit at BASELWORLD. What are your expectations? We are very curious about what the results will be. In our opinion BASELWORLD is the most important jewellery fair to showcase an international jewellery brand. The atmosphere is very impressive, very commercial. We are very proud to be part of it.

What is special about the design of the Choices by DL stand? The look of the stand is very clean and white – it really fits the Choices by DL concept. We have developed a special stone bar for BASELWORLD, in which you can find all the colours that go with Choices by DL jewellery. It all looks very nice and summery.

What are your expectations for business in 2013? Choices by DL had very good results over the last five years and is growing every year. We expect 2013 to be a good year as well. Choices by DL is a new brand and is very different to other jewellery brands, so we think that 2013 can be a great year. 2.1, B51

SIEGELSON has brought iconic examples of 20th century design to BASELWORLD; here a pair of vintage Boucheron earrings (circa 1925), made of platinum, lapis lazuli, singlecut diamonds and black enamel. Inspired by the elongated clothing silhouettes of the 1920s, these long dangling earrings are all about movement; matching bobbed hairstyles with an Art Deco feel – just as remarkable and wearable today as when they were made. (nh) 2.2, C27


NEWS

THERE IS LOVE IN THE AIR

Lock & Love collection, Tree of Life pendant with padlocks in white gold set with a diamond.

MATHIEU TOURNAIRE PRESENTS HIS FIRST COLLECTION LOCK & LOVE Interview by Kyra Brenzinger

DOMINO – The British jewellery manufacture Domino can look back on 60 years of experience and is one of the best-established brands in the UK. Domino displays the extensive breadth of its collection on its show stand. On display, amongst other pieces, are the Domino Ring Mount (DRM) collection, available in gold and platinum, and a large selection of solitaire rings as well as rings with three, five or seven stones. Wedding rings and fashionable bracelets and necklaces are also on display. (cete) 2.1, N34

CARRERA Y CARRERA – The Spanish label Carrera y Carrera is presenting a collection of silver cufflinks for the first time. With their distinctive surfaces and detailed sterling silver workmanship the lines Córdoba, La Viña, Alegrías, Y and Círculos de Fuego are an authentic expression of elegance and masculinity. Architecture, geometry and mysterious figures from Asian culture provided the inspiration for this high-quality and imaginative collection. (cete) 1.1, D33

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he jewellery artist Mathieu Tournaire, son of Philippe Tournaire, grew up in the family workshop and for his first collection, which will be presented in the Joaillerie de France area at BASELWORLD, he is offering a preview of his new concept which celebrates love at a planetary level. BWDN: Can you tell us your professional background to date? Mathieu Tournaire: Yes, I started out my professional career in teaching. But since I was small, I have visited my father’s workshop where he gave me free rein to make things and explore the different techniques in jewellery making. As they say, “What is bred in the bone will come out in the flesh” and so I asked my father if I could work with him but he advised me to start out at an external workshop to properly learn the basics of the profession. I rejoined my father four years ago and started to produce some unique items. Today I am launching my first collection concept. How did you come to create your first Lock & Love collection? When I come to Paris, I love walking along the Seine. In 2010, I discovered hundreds of padlocks on the Pont des Arts bridge for the first time and the padlocks are now starting to spread to other bridges in Paris too. It was when I went to New York and visited the Brooklyn

Bridge that I realised that this is an international phenomenon. I conducted some research and discovered that the tradition has developed across the world – in Russia, China and in Europe. What is the concept behind this collection? Just like the lovers who come to the bridges to attach their padlocks, I have created a pendant in the form of the Pont des Arts bridge in Paris with small padlocks which are attached on top. This symbolises an eternal love – that of the bridge of lovers where the couples attach their padlock to symbolise their love and, according to tradition, throw the key into the water to seal their union. How did you stage this jewellery? I wanted to relay this romantic gesture through a genuine scenario using a box with the pendant on the one side and the padlock on the other. The man who places the pendant around the neck of his loved one will put the final touches to this small padlock. There is also a key in the form of a small key-ring which comes with the box or which may be worn by the man. The pendant is a truly animated gift and so to present it even better, I asked several Manga artists to create a little scenario which is also included with the box. This is an innovative way of communicating in the field of jewellery making.

Mathieu Tournaire.

Why have you decided only to depict the Pont des Arts in Paris? I favoured the Pont des Arts as the Tournaire company is based in Paris at the Place Vendôme and my father Philippe’s last collection ‘French Kiss’ paid homage to the Eiffel Tower. The bridge is both a homage to my father’s architectural creations and a symbol of the links between two people, two places, two banks and two histories. But I have

also depicted the Tree of Life which, in addition to its symbolism, became a place for padlocks in Moscow. In fact, Moscow town hall created a special installation of metal trees where lovers could attach their padlocks. This tree gave me the idea of suggesting that towns such as Lyon (the original region of our workshop in Montbrison) and Paris also introduce an artistic installation of a metal tree. 2.1, C45

FROM THE CHARM COUNTRY WITH LOVE

FEW NATURAL RESOURCES INSPIRES CREATIVITY IN SCANDINAVIAN COUNTRIES by Nina Hald

A CHOPARD has decided to back the famous saying that goes: ”An apple a day keeps the doctor away”. So swing by the Swiss company for an afternoon refreshment. This little whimsical creation, a fully sculpted delectable apple ring, is straight out of a glorious and precious fruit bowl, made with 773 tsavorite garnets and 238 coloured diamonds – guaranteed to bring some joy and fun to the show. Make time to admire the subtle play of nuances on the stem and the leaf. (nh) 1.0, D15

s countries of few natural resources for goldsmiths, Scandinavia has had to be innovative in other fields than high-end diamond jewellery. These years, strong design-driven jewellery concepts carry the countries to a significant and strong position in

Shamballa Jewels bracelet with turquoise.

the middle segments of the market, and especially bracelets and charms have been a major success. Marketing support and a strong network of retailers are often mentioned as two integral keys to success – along with a consistent branding effort.

Inspiration is gleaned from the entire globe, even though a certain sweet Scandinavian approach remains the point of departure when it comes to design. Scandinavian Modern is all about minimalism; no fuss or drama, just sexy, cool and streamlined jewellery that

is wearable for all occasions. Either playful with a focus on details, or a strong simplicity that is strictly Scandinavian in style; the jewellery concepts and collections are marketed as possibilities for the consumers to individualise their combinations. For the last years, there has been a general focus on exploring new materials such as silkmacramé and leather, steel and ceramics, but these seasons see a return to gold and larger-sized coloured stones in more interesting cuts, especially cabochons. Trend-wise, bangles, bracelets and all shades of the colour blue take centre stage. Bracelets are the first and foremost category because of the possibilities of charms and other add-ons; rings and pendants tie for second-place. 2.1, C73

Milano - www.utopia-jewels.com

Hall 1.1 - Booth E03


NEWS

SPIRITUAL DIAMONDS

Managing and Creative Director Eduardo Brüner.

PREMIERE FOR THE NEW BUDDHA COLLECTION AT SCHREINER FINE JEWELLERY by Christel Trimborn

A CARLA AMORIM – Michelle Obama wears her pieces, as do Hollywood stars Uma Thurman and Emma Stone: the jewellery of Carla Amorim. This year the Brazilian jewellery designer delivers an homage to the bold colours and vibrant diversity of Rio de Janeiro with her new Rio collection. Opulent Paraiba tourmalines, nephrite jade, black diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, tanzanites, rubies and many more gems lend expression to this line and tie in the casual and sophisticated feel of the city of Rio de Janeiro. (cete) 2.1, A31

t peace with itself and wise – with its aura of positive energy, the figure of Buddha stands for happiness, inner contentment and purity the world over. Cosmopolitan Gerhard Schreiner, proprietor of the German company Schreiner Fine Jewellery, encounters many people with different cultural backgrounds on his journeys. However, he is particularly inspired by those which display both inner tranquillity and a high degree of creativity, following Buddhist principles. At BASELWORLD Schreiner Fine Jewellery is presenting its new Buddha collection to the public for the first time.

CUT IS PATENTED WORLDWIDE

INSPIRED BY BRAZIL’S BEAUTY BRUMANI SEEKS OUT ROUTE TO NEW MARKETS by Christel Trimborn

TAMARA COMOLLI – German jewellery designer Tamara Comolli recently opened a boutique in Palm Beach, Florida. After the store in the Hamptons, near New York, it is her second in the USA. To mark the opening of the shop she is presenting a new variation of her Color Story, the Palm Beach model. Chalcedony in pastel shades, inspired by the coloured stucco of the art déco houses in the luxury holiday resort, set in 750 gold they represent a perfect, sophisticated appearance and a particularly feminine note. (cete) 2.1, G20

ARUNASHI – Designer Arun Bohra, an eighth generation jeweller to the royal families of India, uses vivid colours with organic forms to create jewellery pieces that are fresh classics. The artistically balanced jewellery embodies gemstones of exceptional quality, fine workmanship and a keen eye for detail, creating jewellery that transcends the boundaries of art and fantasy. (cete) 2.2, A23

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he brand is worn by tennis ace Maria Sharapova and showbiz celebrity Jennifer Lopez. Star of the “Twilight Saga” Ashley Greene, actress Emily Blunt (“The devil wears Prada”) and numerous other stars also appreciate its radiance: exquisite luminous jewellery from Brazilian jewellery manufacturer, Brumani. They all share a penchant for timeless beauty and therefore the striking items in the Brumani collections are a regular feature on red carpets around the globe. Brothers Eduardo, Emerson and Rodrigo Brüner founded the Brumani brand in 2005 and the brand quickly established itself as one of the best

Ring from the Baobab collection.

Earrings from the Baobab collection in 18K yellow gold with brown diamonds, aquamarine, ruby and pink tourmaline.

renowned jewellery brands in Brazil. The collections are inspired by the diversity of nature, the colours and treasures of the land and the lively and positive attitude of its inhabitants. Rubies, aquamarines

Jennifer Lopez is one of the celebrities who wear Brumani jewellery.

Together with his team, Gerhard Schreiner designed and developed a unique Buddha cut that artistically combines the material purity of the gemstone with the spiritual purity of Buddha. The unusual cut of the diamonds also represents perfection and eternity – attributes that are luxuriously expressed in the new Buddha collection. It comprises intricately-worked necklaces, pendants, bracelets and earrings. The globally patented Buddha diamonds are available in sizes from 0.60 carats to 3 carats, with sizes from 3 to 15 carats available on request. Schreiner Fine Jewellery is located in Munich and has made a name for itself on the international jewellery market with select gemstones and pearls coupled with the highest standards of quality workmanship. 1.1, D05

Jewellery inspired by Brazilian savoir vivre.

and tourmalines in all colour shades along with pink opal, morganite, sapphire, pearls and diamonds are tastefully and elaborately combined with white, rose and yellow gold – sometimes elegant and feminine and other times as a breath-taking explosion of colour. Having established itself on the Latin American market, Managing and Creative Director Eduardo Brüner now wants to use this year’s BASELWORLD as an opportunity to open up new markets for his high quality jewellery ranges.“ In 2013 we created a collection with a fresh design, feminine and contemporary. Jewellery is an accessory that is part of a woman´s everyday life. Considering the world today, we believe in a product that has an innovative design and shines brightly in the market. We believe in offering new services to the client, marketing plans and competitive prices”, Eduardo Brüner says. 2.1, N61

Buddha Collection by Gerhard Schreiner.

Hall 1.1/A09

H A L L 1 . 1 S TA N D C - 0 9 W W W. M I K I M O T O . C O M

V oya g e u r Two faces reVersible

any Time any where

Hall 1.1 - stand a63 www.korloffparis.com


NEWS

BRAND STRATEGIES LEADING ITALIAN JEWELS’ DEVELOPMENT PLAN Interview by Roberto Chilleri

T BOUCHERON has been inspired by the imperial beauty of the swan for the company’s new Cypris rings and pendants. Aphrodite, the Greek goddess of love and beauty, was often depicted steering a chariot drawn by swans. And it is for this reason that Boucheron decided to baptize four black and white swan designs Cypris, which is Aphrodite’s Cypriot name. The pendants and rings are sculpted with either colourless diamonds or black sapphires, and ruby eyes, set in white and blackened gold. (nh) 1.1 B59

NOMADES is the brand for the widely-travelled, cosmopolitan nomad, self-assured and with an individual feel for beauty. Each piece of jewellery from this Hamburg-based manufacture is of high quality. Nomades offers numerous individual pieces in limited editions. One example is this cocktail ring in 750 white and yellow gold with a splendid Paraiba tourmaline of 18.77 ct and yellow sapphires (0.35 ct). 2.1, M91

wo years ago the Italian group owned by the Indian colossus Gitanjali took over five prestigious brands: Stefan Hafner, Nouvelle Bague, Valente Milano, Porrati and Io Sì. Today it is launching a brand expansion and promotion plan steered by the new CEO, 34-year-old Steve Wright, with a brilliant record at Swarovski UK.

Are the new collections only accessible to the wealthy few? We have chosen to provide retailers with a complete package: each signature brand is associated with a range of pieces outside the core price, between 3,000 and 8,000 euros. We offer haute couture pieces, but customers can also buy a piece of jewellery of the finest quality, including the packaging, for between 1,500 and 2,000 euros.

BWDN: You are known as being a great strategist… Steve Wright: I am here to improve the performance of our brands around the world. I believe they have great potential. For example, a signature brand like Stefan Hafner is every bit as good as other top-end niche jewellery brands in terms of style and manufacturing quality, apart from the fact it doesn’t have over one hundred years of history behind it. Which aspect of the business do you consider to be most important in strategic terms? When talking about brands, particularly luxury brands, great attention must be paid to even the smallest details. At the present time, the creation of new collections and improvements to the distribution network are key. Do the synergies of the Gitanjali group play an important part in distribution? Belonging to the group is important, although the Italian brands use a different distribution channel. We have created separate strategic targets to boost the performances of the individual brands. Each one has its own unique concept and a different client base, meaning that it also

Is Stefan Hafner and Nouvelle Bague jewellery still made in Italy? The pieces are designed in our headquarters in Valenza and all the work is carried out in Italy. Given that our brands have strong associations with Italian craftsmanship, we decided to respect and promote this invaluable heritage. 1.1, D01 Stefan Hafner bracelet from the Angelica collection in white gold diamonds and rubies.

Steve Wright, CEO of Leading Italian Jewels.

has a different distribution strategy. In order to develop their potential to the full, we have to evolve the business from B2B to multi-channel. We are developing new shop-in-shop concepts and we will be intensifying our presence in top-end department stores, travel retail and online. You recently opened a showroom in Milan. Yes, right in the heart of the fashion district, a real shoppers’ paradise. This showroom will not just be

used as a distribution centre and for B2B assistance, but will provide a setting for events to which we will invite important clients, wealthy tourists visiting Italy and the fashion press. It will be a place where everyone, retailers and consumers alike, will be able to breathe in the atmosphere of the brand and live the brand experience.

FLORAL-INSPIRED BEAUTY SCULPTURAL, FEMININE AND DELICATE – FLOWERS EQUAL POWER by Nina Hald

FRIEDEN says it with flowers with its new set. Created with great attention to detail, these floral ornaments are accentuated via precious yellow diamonds. These new pieces radiate elegance along with playfulness and an awareness of fashion. They have been created for styleconscious aesthetes who appreciate the shimmering attributes of the diamonds. Intricate goldsmithing artistry elevates the precious yellow brilliant-cut diamonds optically from the radiant white pendants. These are the heralds of spring in three dimensional form. 2.1, C21

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ust like no beauty regime – petal-inspired lip colours, flower-infused skincare and sweet, blooming fragrances – is complete without adding flowers to the mix, so is a large selection of jewellery like fresh floral bouquets. This year at BASELWORLD, the halls are blossoming with flowers, as jewellery exhibitors champion the return of flower-power. The floral looks are teeming with feminine details: organic, sumptuous and sculptural. Whether assuming the shape of an entire bouquet, as in the cases of Mikimoto and Schreiner Fine Jewellery, or one single flower as seen at Chopard, the look is decidedly feminine.

Schreiner Fine Jewellery’s unique Copa Cabana earrings and ring.

With the upcoming release of Baz Luhrmann’s film adaptation of The Great Gatsby pearls have never looked so hot. The movie is highly glamorous, a classic American story of the extravagance, decadence and illusion of the 1920s. At Mikimoto, organic shapes of diamond flowers and leaves grow and emerge in between Akoya cultured pearls to create pretty bouquets; sparkling diamonds reflect the high lustre of the pearls set in 18 karat white gold, and the floral sets include pendant and earrings. Schoeffel makes a play on the feminine mystique, in a particular luminescent flower set of pendant

Mikimoto Floral Bouquet earrings with 5-6.75 mm Akoya cultured pearls and diamonds

and ring, with South Sea cultured pearls in superlative sizes. Almost Arctic in its cool beauty, the set aptly falls under the Couture Collection of the company. Finally, when it comes to a tropic sumptuous beauty, nothing comes close to the unique masterpieces of Schreiner Fine Jewellery that excel in both size and lush luxury – artisanship combined with volume, which will have the female audience clamouring for the creations.

www.stefanhafner.com

Eclipse Collection

Baselworld halle 1.1 - booth D01


NEWS

HE IS AT IT AGAIN! AARON BASHA HAS DONE IT AGAIN: SHOWING NEW WONDERS AND MASTERPIECES by Nina Hald

J. KÖHLE – Pforzheim clasp specialist J. Köhle offers a new range of products once again at BASELWORLD 2013. This time the forms and colours of cultured pearls are reflected in the new designs. For example, the ocean waves are depicted in the design of sophisticated clasps. Highly unusual surfaces and unprecedented colour combinations of gold and silver are sure to surprise visitors to the show stand. (ahe) 2.1, L20

C Mario Petroncelli, Marketing Director at Ponte Vecchio Gioielli.

JEWELLERY FOR ALL A YEAR PACKED WITH NEW PRODUCTS FOR PONTE VECCHIO GIOIELLI Interview by Roberto Chilleri

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he sophisticated Florentine brand presents a wide range of collections to meet the increasingly varied tastes of contemporary women. Marketing Director Mario Petroncelli fills us in on all the details.

MATHON – Mathon generally specialises in animal and floral themes but the collection it is presenting at BASELWORLD 2013 takes a trip to Manhattan and its various quarters. Tribeca, Broadway, Brooklyn – many ways of discovering New York and its range of architectures. The Empire ring pays a vibrant homage to the Empire State Building which is recreated with a multitude of baguettecut diamonds and a round diamond. The Tribeca collection draws on the colours of amethyst, rose tourmaline and peridot to evoke the facades of this former industrial quarter which has now been updated. Broadway is inspired by the pinks of fashion designer Paul Iribe who is considered to be the forerunner to Art Déco. Coloured stones (tourmaline, aquamarine, moonstone) are paired with diamonds because Broadway is the quarter of musical comedy and glamour! (kb) 2.1, C45

BWDN: Your brand is synonymous with colour and innovation, but I have also seen more traditional pieces in your new collections… Mario Petroncelli: Yes, we have always made pieces like this and we are also responding to demand from retailers. However, if you look closely at Artemide, our latest collection in white gold and precious stones, you will see our own unique style: the shape of the collets, the invisible settings that show off the stones, a certain degree of asymmetry at times. This is the touch of originality that the public always expects of us. Why are classic style and white stones so popular today? This is a trend that we have particularly observed in Europe, and I would certainly say it is due to a question of taste. However, sometimes, in Italy for example, there may also be socioeconomic reasons behind such preferences: buying diamond jewellery is very reassuring. Elsewhere, however, colour and large sizes always sell best, particularly in Russia and its neighbouring countries, America and the Far East. This is also true of Middle Eastern countries, where people love beautiful, showy stones.

Are exports becoming more and more important for Italian jewellery makers? Many of the best luxury products, not just jewellery, are made in Italy. However, more and more of them are being sold to people in other countries, where there is greater incentive to buy and where, in my opinion, luxury is encouraged and considered one of the driving forces of the economy. Do your items sell well in the United States too? We still have much to learn about the US market. We only began selling our products there a year ago and early results are very encouraging. You have brought four new collections to BASELWORLD. Isn’t this a lot for a niche brand?

Women have changed. They used to be driven by the desire to belong, thinking “that is beautiful, I want one too”. Because of this, if a collection comprised seven pieces, the retailer wanted all of them to satisfy the customer and her friends. However, these days women prefer to wear something different from the others. If two friends both love our brand, they can each choose a different collection. Is this a global trend? I would certainly say so. This is why we are presenting so many new products. In addition to Artemide, we are also launching Luci, an everyday jewellery line in rose gold and semiprecious stones, Diva, an eye-catching line with large irregularly-cut stones, and Geo, a very unusual and varied collection that cannot be described in a few words – you have to see it.

Rings from the Luci collection, in rose gold and diamonds, with London blue topaz, smoky quartz, garnets, sky topaz and amethysts.

harms are the tried and tested classics of the jewellery world; always guaranteed to make a sale and to bring joy to the women who wear them. Now, take the sure-fire sales factor and double it with whimsy and playfulness, and you have a global hit on your hands. Finally, add longevity, excellent quality and charms that keep the ladies coming back for more, and BASELWORLD will be cheering you on. American Aaron Basha has been stealing the hearts of everyone in a most alluring way for the last past few decades. The company has done it by a combination of instantly loveable miniature figures made

Aaron Basha – striking up small conversations with loveable characters.

of gold with colourful enamel and diamonds. The Sole Mates are a familiar classic and bestseller for the company; a baby shoe that has captured the hearts of grandmothers, mothers and daughters alike. Small and feminine Baby Janes for the girls and sporty sneakers for the boys are all set with gemstones, to be cherished for a lifetime. The complete collection of Aaron Basha numbers more than 2,000 varieties of fine jewellery charms; the collections encompass animals, zodiacs, automobile, and symbolical characters, that make for statements of fanciful luxury. A mythical and signature Evil Eye charm serves as a sexy, sophisticated talisman, bringing good fortune and warding off evil spirits. To top it all off, the Couture Collection is a dazzling expression of charms paved with colourless, black and yellow diamonds, sapphires and rubies, set in 18 karat white, yellow and rose gold. So that we all may add a little sparkle to our lives. 2.2, G82

Africa Collection,


NEWS

TEN FABULOUS YEARS TI SENTO MILANO CELEBRATES TENTH ANNIVERSARY Interview by Christel Trimborn

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birthday is always a good reason to celebrate – especially when it is a significant one: the label Ti Sento Milano can look to its ten-year company anniversary with pride. In 2003 the Dutch company launched its first fashion jewellery collection onto the market. Since then it has brought out two collections a year, inspired by the trends of the international catwalks. Alongside the brand stores in Amsterdam, Vienna and Skopje, the products are available in 40 countries. The affordable product range now includes 650 pieces, made from sterling silver and plated with rhodium. To mark its tenth anniversary the design team created the special 10 Fabulous Years collection, with a ring to symbolise each individual year of the company’s existence. All of the rings are based on the most popular Ti Sento designs of the past decade and are numbered with Roman numerals. In keeping with the occasion, they are presented in a stylish gift box. At BASELWORLD Ti Sento is also presenting a new Portofino collection, inspired by

the leisurely summer feeling of the eponymous Italian seaside resort. Summery colours, rhodium-plated silver with pink and gold-plated details and extravagant designs invite wearers to combine the individual pieces as the mood takes them. BWDN talked to Barry Kroes, Marketing Manager at Ti Sento: BWDN: What markets are you planning to enter next? Barry Kroes: We are currently expanding our business in the Americas (USA, Canada, Puerto Rico, etc.) where we are still looking for new dealers. After the initial launch of Ti Sento in the Americas in late 2012 we are now rapidly expanding our footprint with Ti Sento’s rhodium plated sterling silver jewellery range. We are also looking to open new territories with our brand, such as the Middle-East and Asia. Finally, we must not forget that we are not yet the biggest in Europe, therefore all stockists willing to be part of the Ti Sento family are welcome to meet us at BASELWORLD.

A ring for each year: various ringdesigns from Ti Sento’s latest collection.

Barry Kroes, Marketing Manager of the Dutch label Ti Sento.

How important is BASELWORLD to Ti Sento? BASELWORLD is the global podium for a brand like Ti Sento, without a doubt BASELWORLD is one of the most important and prestigious shows in the trade. To us it is a place to meet the right people and make the right connections for our brand to push it into becoming a worldwide-known brand. For recent campaigns Ti Sento was able to recruit the internationally known top model Michelle Buswell – what makes her the ideal representative of the brand?

Michelle Buswell is the star of our current Portofino campaign, as well as Ti Sento’s previous New York Leading Lady campaign. Our star photographer Andrea Klarin knows Michelle Buswell personally and made the connection for us. Michelle fell in love with our range and was really delighted that we were able to work together. Michelle is a woman of the world, she travels, is free-spirited, fun and sophisticated. As you will understand, we were equally excited to work with Michelle, as she is a big name in the fashion industry with campaigns to her name for Victoria’s Secret and Jean-Paul Gaultier. 1.1, A09

EXCEPTIONAL JEWELLERY WORLD THE POWERFUL COMBINATION OF ETERNAL BEAUTY AND THE MOST PRECIOUS OF GEMSTONES

ANTONINI is dedicated to the most precious and noble of metals: gold. The Italian manufacture has consequently named its new collection after the Latin name for gold, Aurea. It is a collection with a highly independent design, typical for those of Antonini. The golden loops of the pieces are set with asymmetrical diamond pavé and are designed to flatter every woman. (ahe) 2.2, D01

ICELINK has set a flurry of diamonds to grace the new Snow collection of precious jewellery. Think of it as a grown-up, luxurious and wearable version of the snow globe. Every bit as fascinating as the object that captivated us as children, IceLink’s new Snow jewellery collection offers a window onto a world where snowflakes and sunlight dazzle in a graceful, never-ending dance. The cascade of carats resides within transparent sapphire crystal “windows” framed in gold. (nh) 2.2, A17

by Nina Hald

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f bags are status symbols and shoes all about sex, then jewellery is beauty – eternal beauty. And this beauty better last for something like eternity or at least several generations to come when considering the prices that may reach in to the stratosphere of several millions of Euros. Unique showpieces of BASELWORLD are both eye-catching and colourful; their sometimes even eccentric aesthetics certainly demands a female wearer that can wear the challenges they presents. In BASELWORLD, talking about things is rare enough. Action is demanded – and if you have your heart set on a unique piece, you better be ready, willing and able to act fast. Because the most prestigious and gorgeous jewellery creations are usually one-of-a-kind, so the ability to strike at once is a requirement. Approximately 40 per cent of the

price of a unique piece is founded in the craftsmanship – the rest of the price tags in the gemstones and pearls; only fair when considering that nature seldom repeats herself. An exceptional repertoire is made up of colourful gemstones in superlative sizes and fancy shapes and cuts. Even though the aesthetic agenda is still dominated by the four classic precious stones – diamonds, rubies, emeralds and sapphires – other stones have made it on to the unique jewellery pieces as well: one only needs to think of imperial topazes, aquamarines, turquoises, red spinels and rubellite to know, that the best quality is costly no matter the gemstone. Tradition demands the exceptional from jewellery companies, and in BASELWORLD the brands certainly demonstrate both the ambition and ability to deliver some-

de Grisogono bracelet made of rose and pink gold set with diamonds.

thing that audiences have never seen before. Seduction and elegance continue to be the two most important factors in the creation of unique jewellery that serves as flagships of prestige. Large necklaces make for image statements, and inspiration from nature – such as flora and fauna – continues to dominate the looks. What it all comes down to is of course Love with a capital L. What perpetuates our fascination with jewellery? The answer is love, because jewellery is bought to match the great events of a lifetime, such as an engagement or a wedding. Jewellery is that touch of style, which cannot be achieved through clothing, make-up, shoes or bags. But jewellery is related to all of the above. So in end, the powerful combination of imaginative design and the most precious of materials is a celebration of love.

GUESS – Floral times: Guess is presenting its floral In Bloom collection which is both feminine and flirtatious. The colour tones are inspired by youthful denim: shiny indigo and violet enamel are paired with crystals in different colour tones and with accentuating woven blue satin bands. The colour and design of the rings, necklaces as well as the bracelet and earrings are the perfect complement to a casual or feminine outfit. (cete) 1.2, A41

Liveyourpassion

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Please visit us at Baselworld, Hall 1.1, Stand B79


COLOUR EXPLOSION MONOCHROME IS OUT – VIBRANT COLOUR MIX IS IN. by Christel Trimborn

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his trend quickens the appetite for summer, sun and radiant colours. A large portion of the current collections on the international catwalks resemble a leap into the paint palette. Where in past years colours were arranged in block form, the alignment of coloured surfaces this season is more reminiscent of a luxuriant colour explosion. Radiant orange, glowing red, deep violet, sunny yellow and strong blue are woven together to form an exciting symphony of colour. Orderly chaos creates bold yet elegant accents. Breezy pastel nuances ensure delicate intermediate tones. In fashion the fabrics act as a flattering canvas

for colourful designs. The variety of colours enables a sheer endless source of combinations. Jewellery, fashion, accessories complement one another, always somewhere else, always something new. Here and there bold accents are set.

COMBINATION ARTIST One person who celebrates the radiance of coloured gemstones is the Brazilian jewellery manufacturer Brumani. In the Celebration range yellow, white and pink gold combine with white and brown diamonds and yellow and orange sapphires to create a genuine wild fire. The Goldiaq brand from China also masters the field of colours with coloured gemstones and diamonds, embedded in gold: intertwined white and yellow gold rings with diamonds and variously-coloured sapphires unite to form an unusual highlight. In contrast, voluminous individual, coloured gemstones are the focus of the Monaco collection

of US designer Judith Ripka: artistically-cut coloured gemstones, set in yellow and white gold and decorated with pavé make a real statement in the form of expressive cocktail rings. Colour diversity is also in demand where wrist watches are concerned. A completely new and extremely colourful visualisation of time is possible with the analogue watches from German brand Rainbow Watch It is presented in Basel for the first time this year in cooperation with the international watch group Time2U: time changes the colours on the watch face every minute and every second! The fashionable silicone rings from the Due Punti label also deliver joyful colour. They too are available in every colour of summer, combinable with one another and represent the colourful icing on the cake of any outfit. The distinctive feature: a small diamond set in the silicone lends the rings and bracelets an air of glamour.

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1 de Grisogono | 2 Judith Ripka | 3 Goldiaq Creation | 4 Due Punti | 5 Rainbow Watch | 6 Brumani | 7 Utopia | 8 By Malene Birger | 9 Versace | 10 Talbot und Runhof

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72 INNOVATIONS THURSDAY, APRIL 25.2013

JEWELS AND PEARLS LIKE THE GENTLE TOUCH CUTTING AND POLISHING SHOULD NOT DAMAGE PRECIOUS STONES by Pia Grund-Ludwig

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The compact table-top device with an integrated display can be used to identify the karat level of an item of jewellery at the touch of a button.

KARAT STATUS AT THE TOUCH OF A BUTTON THE GOLDXPERT FROM OLYMPUS TESTS PRECIOUS METALS IN A FAST AND NON-DESTRUCTIVE MANNER by Markus Strehlitz

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he key properties of Goldxpert are described by Dieter Bullnheimer as being extremely fast, reliable and nondestructive. Bullnheimer is Managing Director of the wholesaler of the same name (4.U, B23) and he sees the Goldxpert as one of the product highlights of this year’s show presentation. “This compact table-top device with an integrated display can be used to identify the karat level of an item of jewellery at the touch of a button and analyse the composition,” Bullnheimer explains. The Olympus system

The device weighs 10 kg and therefore can be transported anywhere.

operates using an X-ray fluorescence process. The items are analysed without causing them any destruction. According to the manufacturer, this technique represents a simple and cost-effective alternative to fired samples and chemical testing processes. Goldxpert’s main advantages include: the value of old gold can be identified quickly and accurately. With the device, users can identify a wide range of gold, silver, platinum and other alloys of precious metals and their composition can be analysed. The technology can also be used to identify any harmful elements in the samples. Goldxpert similarly undertakes quality controls as part of the refinement and melting processes. The device weighs 10 kg and can therefore be transported anywhere – whether at the customer’s or supplier’s premises. The viewing window and illuminated chamber enable the customer to view the test at all times. The integrated camera means that photos can be taken of the test object and saved in the device together with the results of the analysis. X-ray collimation is used to measure small components and samples. Touching the screen in the

camera mode enables the user to activate the 3 mm collimation. The screen then shows which point the analysis is focusing on. The collimation can easily be re-set to 10 mm for normal analyses. Goldxpert works independently of a PC. If the device is connected to a computer, however, the user can export the test data into a spread sheet or compile customer-specific certificates, including a photo of the sample and the company logo with the results of the analysis. The Goldxpert is available in two different versions. The standard version is recommended for manufacturers for general karat status identification and application in the trade sector. The Goldxpert SDD version has been developed for refiners who require a high level of accuracy in the analysis as well as fast results. The device is equipped with a sophisticated silicon drift chamber detector to enable a sensitive analysis even with more complex test processes. According to the manufacturer, the precision and sensitivity of the Goldxpert SDD are twice as high as in the standard version. Show visitors can also examine the Goldxpert at the Bijoutil (4.U, C40) stand alongside Bullnheimer.

he Swiss company Edenta is a leading manufacturer of rotating quality instruments and has been present on the international jeweller and goldsmith market for decades. “Our goal is to be a top quality supplier, manufacturing instruments in accordance with ISO 9001, coupled with superb service and prompt delivery,” stresses Sales Department Manager Harald Kügerl. A decisive benefit in this is the long-lasting materials, which guarantee precision and avoid damage being caused to jewellery, stones and pearls. “Visitors to BASELWORLD can see this live on our stand,” adds Kügerl. An example: drilling pearls. The Edenta carbide instruments enable the effortless and secure drilling of pearls, without them being damaged by the rotation heat. Optimal advance with simultaneous outstanding removal of the drilled material at approximately 5,000 to 7,000 rotations mean that little heat is generated on the pearls. The special cutting geometry means that the hole in the pearl is also polished at the same time. The results are clean hole edges and retention of the pearl‘s sheen. In addition, the low rotation heat means that the drilling instruments do not blue. One particularly exciting innovation is a set of diamond polishers and fine polishers. These enable a high gloss to be restored for all used, old and defective gemstones. With the exception of diamonds, all gemstones can be restored to their former shine in various applications using water and a maximum of 5,000 rotations. In the case of steel and platinum, special techniques can be applied using the diamond polishers StarGloss and CeraGloss to polish to a

Diamond polishers guarantee good results without damaging the item.

high-gloss finish. 8,000 to a maximum of 10,000 rotations with low contact pressure guarantee perfect results. For Kügerl it is not essential that new products are displayed every year, but that customers can be won over with applications that enable improved success with the product. One example: polishing with rubber instead of silicone. The price for the tools is initially higher, but the pressure used when working is lower. This reduces the risk of damaging a gemstone or piece of jewellery. In addition, the durability of the equipment is significantly longer, emphasises Kügerl. At the show it is important to demonstrate this not only to users, but especially to buyers. Edenta products comprise the entire range of rubber, silicone and diamond-based polishing, abrasive trimmers, separator discs, sintered diamond instruments as well as milling and drilling equipment in steel and carbide. This range is complemented by a wide selection of accessories such as dressing, trimming and cleaning stones, mandrels and cleaning brushes. 4.U, D40

“Extremely fast, reliable and nondestructive”

The carbide instruments enable secure and exact drilling of pearls.

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INNOVATIONS 75 THURSDAY, APRIL 25.2013

LOTS OF MOMENTUM IN THE NEW HALL EXHIBITORS ENJOY THE NEW AMBIENCE by Pia Grund Ludwig

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he time has finally come. Manufacturers from the technology sector are presenting their products in a completely new ambience in Hall 4.U at BASELWORLD 2013, following the completion of renovation work. Many have used this as an opportunity to invest in innovative products and in modern and attractive stand structures. Dieter Bullnheimer, Managing Director of the company of the same name (4.U, B23), sums it up: “This

ket conditions are still excellent. “We are hoping for another boost after the show, depending on feedback from the brands about the show,” stresses Schürch. A new version of the Chronoscope S1 (G2) is being presented as an innovative new feature with a capacity controlled touch-screen and colour display.

IMPROVED NAVIGATION Georg Steiner, Manager of the stainless steel semi-finished products/recycling sector at German company Heimerle and Meule

accommodate everyone, both exhibitors and professional visitors,” Steiner is convinced. The new trade show concept will certainly attract even more visitors. Marek Birkenstock, Managing Director of Beco Technic (4U, C30), a specialist retailer of watch and jewellery technology, has been exhibiting here for many years and is expecting to see top customers from the fields of trade, after-sales services and industry at BASELWORLD 2013. “I think our customers will find us at the new site. There might even be some new visitors who would not otherwise have ventured into the old Hall 3.U. We are happy with our stand placement because the flow of visitors entering and leaving Hall 4.U will have to pass right by us. The focus of our trade show presentation is on ergonomic work places based on the industry certification specifications”. Andrew Smyth, CEO of Town Talk Polish (4.U, C41), has also been attending this meeting point of the industry with his company for many years: “We are glad to be at the centre of the biggest and most important show for the industry and believe the new hall will greatly benefit the technology vendors, from the improved visitor flow to the Hall of Innovations.” The company is presenting a new luxurious diamond and watch polishing cloth and its full range of cleaning and polishing products.

for retail jewellers,” adds William Dahl from Solidscape (4.U, C13). Companies not only have to react to the desire for new innovations, but also to statutory regulations. Amongst other aspects, this applies to alloys used in the manufacture of jewellery. Heinz Rasenack of United PMR (4.U, A13) has addressed this: the new nickel law in Europe means that many things are no longer possible and much of the input that was previously available cannot be provided. It appears that the safest way to fulfil the requirements of the European legislation is palladium with white gold. For competitor Umicore (4.U, C11), health and safety issues are crucial as well: With Umicore Antitarnish 616 PLUS, silver articles and other metal surfaces will remain bright even after prolonged storage and transport periods. It is biologically safe and free from chromium (VI) compounds. The antitarnish is skin friendly, hypoallergenic and dirt repellent. It can be used in rack, barrel and reel-to-reel equipment. Umicore Antitarnish 616 PLUS is an organic antitarnish process based on nanotechnology. The trade show is a display window for innovation and a key meeting place for customers, dis-

NEW LEGAL REGULATIONS

Like Bullnheimer, many companies have invested in the design of their stands in 2013, giving them a new look.

year, we have opted for a new and higher quality stand concept which is better adapted to our requirements. We feel sure that our new positioning will live up to our positive expectations.” Witschi, the Swiss expert for watch testing systems (4.U, E30), is also featuring a new stand this year: “I am convinced that visitors from abroad consider us exhibitors in Hall 4.U important to the trade show and the visitors will reflect this,” says Marketing Manager Martin Schürch. The mar-

(4.U, C34), is looking forward to the new setting: “We feel very positive about the new design and are looking forward to presenting our products in a pleasant ambience and having good conversations with the professional visitors in a stylish setting.” He is expecting to see a smaller hall structure which enables improved navigation within the broad range of offers and which promises more light and clarity from the gallery. “The spacious and comfortable design will

For Davide Bertazzo of Sisma (4.U, C54), an Italian expert in laser technology, the trade show is “a ritual date for the jewellery business, especially for certain areas of the world market. Also this year, according to the feedback from customers, Sisma is expecting many visitors from European countries in general and from the ever-growing industries like Brazil.” Innovations in 3D printing are also eagerly awaited. One of the companies active in this field is Progold from Italy (4.U, E26): “We are going to present a new prototype featuring a self-cleaning automated system which can perfectly clean the working area of the residue of powder used during production, thus avoiding any contact between the operator and the powder and making it possible for a new process to start within 5 minutes,” Paola Signoretto explains, offering initial insight into the products on offer. “New to this year’s BASELWORLD audience are two exciting 3D printers, the 3Z Pro for jewellery manufacturers and the 3Z Studio, perfect

“BASELWORLD is a ritual date for the jewellery business. We expect to see many visitors from Europe and from the fast-growing economies such as Brazil.” Davide Bertazzo

“The new nickel law in Europe means that much of the input that was previously available can’t be provided. Amongst other options, we are turning to palladium with white gold.” Heinz Rasenack

tributors and suppliers from all over the world. Eduardo Gracia, CEO of Hispana, is sure to be visited by many of its distributors and potential customers: “A good deal of them have announced their intention to visit.” The company is presenting an innovative machine to grind and polish the insides of jewellery items. Dieter Bullnheimer also sees BASELWORLD as an “excellent opportunity to maintain and intensify personal contact with our existing international customers. We also expect to make some exciting new customer contacts at the forthcoming BASELWORLD.” Customers will be shown photo studios of 360° fashion. This enables the compilation of high quality 360° presentations in just a few minutes. “We are expecting to see a high level of customers with numerous international visitors and high quality enquiries here at one of the world’s most important trade shows in the jewellery and watch industry,” adds Martin Schürch from Witschi with optimism. The expectations of Roland Wagner, Managing Director of tool expert Bijoutil, are equally high: “We are expecting an increase in visits to the stand and growth in turnover on last year.” The trade show is important as a display window for each company’s own ideas and as an opportunity to gain a broad overview of innovations and trends: “We are very excited about the new products from other exhibitors, suppliers and competitors too,” says Bullnheimer.

76 GEMSTONES THURSDAY, APRIL 25.2013

Oren Nhaissi, a principal with EMCO Gems, with Colombian emeralds.

Fine 2.5 carat Emerald Cut Colombian Emerald, EMCO Gems.

FALLING FOR COLOUR

GREENS DOMINATE THE PALETTE, BUT SPECTRUM OF OPTIONS IS WIDE by Deborah Yonick

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ule-breaking, bold and unexpected in combination, colour continues to rock fashion runways from New York to London, Paris to Milan for autumn 2013 and into the New Year. Colour, print and pattern and key details define the season. Colour blocking remains important although designers are experimenting with blocks of textures and patterns too. Green is key in the palette, with the top 10, released by the Pantone Color Institute, the global colour authority, including three shades. Hailed Pantone’s Colour of the Year

explains Oren Nhaissi, principal at EMCO Gem, New York and Bogota (3.0, D35). “With emerald the 2013 Colour of the Year, there are significant cross-promotion opportunities for emeralds and emerald green in fashion. With the varying hues of Colombian emeralds, they look great on all skin tones. And, they are available in large sizes, and a variety of qualities to create the important pieces that get noticed.” Pantone’s green movement continues with Deep Lichen Green, somewhere between army green and khaki with grey undertones (think green sapphire, tourmaline,

“In this sector, there is a creative shift towards new forms of jewels and new ways of wearing jewels.” for 2013, Emerald is a powerful, universally appealing tone. A red carpet favourite, emerald tops the list of gems that complement this trend. Other gem options in this hue include demantoid and tsavorite garnets, chrome diopside and tourmaline, and jade. “Emerald green has been a very hot colour the last few years; and emeralds have been a red carpet favourite since Angelina Jolie flashed 115 carats of vivid emerald drop earrings at the Oscars in 2009,”

agate, quartz, moonstone) and Linden Green, halfway between green and yellow (think peridot, chrysoberyl, chrysoprase, quartz, agate). The prevalence of green has been steadily rising for seasons, especially in the fashion and couture markets and on the red carpet. Also in Pantone’s pack, a bold, meditative Mykonos Blue; exotic berry Açai; a deep fuchsia pink, Vivacious; a dynamic, spirited red, Samba; and a dazzling orange Koi, like the ornamental carp. Many

gem families include these colours like diamond, sapphire, tourmaline, garnet, spinel, zircon and quartz. The palette’s anchor neutrals are Turbulence, a deeper degree of charcoal ,and Carafe, a rich, luscious brown—with complementary gems found in varieties like diamond, tourmaline, topaz, quartz, and pearls. The autumn palette creates moods from sophisticated and structured to lively and vivid, encapsulating our inherent need for wardrobe variety to reflect our everchanging emotions. Many designers are embracing unconventional colour combinations that encourage consumers to stop and think, “I never thought of doing that before”, like Mykonos Blue, Emerald and Linden Green; Emerald, Vivacious and Koi; Deep Linchen Green, Emerald and Turbulence; Acai, Samba and Linden Green; and Koi, Mykonos and Carafe. The demand for colour is strong across the board. Although many take direction from the Pantone palette, tastes vary depending on the

Bracelet created by Leading Italian Jewels set with Swarovski genuine topaz and diamonds in yellow gold, part of Swarovski Gems’ GemVisions trends forecasting project.

market, notes Alexander Wild of Wild & Petsch, Kirschweiler, Germany (3.0, B21). “What works in Hong Kong may not in Los Angeles. Customers are selective about what they want, but the constant is always good quality.” He cites, however, the strongest tendencies for greens and blues in a spectrum of shades and stones like African Paraiba tourmaline, aquamarine, and tanzanite. Swarovski Gems’ GemVisions Trends Forecasting for 2014 sees the focus on the gemstone remaining strong as a work of art, natural rarity and object of beauty, with renewed interest in traditional colour stones like emeralds, sapphires and rubies, as well as extreme rarities such as morganite, kunzite, Paraiba tourmaline, and fire opal, shares Nancy Leach, senior consultant gem creative for the Wattens, Austria based company (1.1, C21). “As we began to see last year, there is an increasing fascination with minerals,” says Leach. “These materials lend themselves well to the middle market, which holds such a huge potential and— inhabited by individual designer jewellers fuelling changes — continues to grow, evolve and flourish. In this sector, there is a creative shift towards new forms of jewels and new ways of wearing jewels, hair ornaments, body ornaments and hand jewels (rings worn on all parts of the finger).” She notes increased use of genuine gems including marcasite in products other than jewellery like eyewear, belts, handbags, and electronics — making the things we surround ourselves with more precious.

A selection of Mozambique paraiba tourmalines on display at Wild & Petsch.

78 GEMSTONES THURSDAY, APRIL 25.2013

THE LARGE AND EXTRAORDINARY IT IS TRULY AMAZING TO SEE MOTHER NATURE’S BIG AND BEAUTIFUL GEMS By Gary Roskin

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very exhibitor in Hall 3 can show you something extraordinary, bringing to the biggest trade fair in the world the largest most magnificent gems available. There are so many other surprises for visitors to Hall 3. But don’t wait too long to stop by, as these outstanding gemstone specimens are the first go. Each year, it becomes more challenging for the BASELWORLD Daily News staff to choose an exhibitor or gemstone that stands out above the rest, and for 2013 it’s especially difficult as our list is long, including Pluczenik (3.0, D11), AS Diamonds (3.1, B29), EMCO (3.0, D35), Marc Lazar (3.0, E05), Greco (3.0, E31), FEI (3.1, D33), Henn (3.1, E27), and many many others who will all have large and extraordinary gems.

THE KING OF BIG “More and more customers want to wear jewellery featuring large gemstones,” says gemstone cutter and colour connoisseur Constantin Wild (3.1, A13), known to us as the king of big. “The bigger the stone, the

less the chance of any similar items existing.” With his premium collection Great Temptations, Wild is offering an exclusive selection of exceptional large stones. Particularly eye-catching in his collection is a cognac-coloured 26 x 19.5 mm step-cut imperial topaz weighing 75 carats. There’s also a peach-red coloured oval imperial topaz, weighing “only” 45 carats, a Pakistani peridot, a real heavyweight, 25 x 22 millimetres in size, tipping the scale at almost 70 carats! Not to mention the two cushion shape aquamarines, measuring 36 x 19.5 millimetres each and weighing 144 carats together.

AND THEN THERE’S THE PARAIBA Constantin Wild has another large gem, and this time, it is truly an incomparable. It is an electric blue 60-carat Mozambique paraiba tourmaline. As Wild says, it is “unmatched. It’s the most exciting paraiba I’ve seen in my entire life – and probably for the rest of it. You can hardly find such a clear and intense neon blue in paraibas – not to talk about the enormous size!”

Big extraordinary gems like these Chinese freshwater pearls from London Pearl (3.0, D07), this fabulous 60-carat opal from Michael Youssoufian Ltd, (3.1, B19), and this amazing 60-carat Paraiba Mozambique tourmaline from Constantin Wild (3.1, A13).

THE “NEW” HALL 3 IS GEMTASTIC! A BRAND NEW HALL HIGHLIGHTS SPECTACULAR GEMS By Gary Roskin

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elcome to the new Hall 3, Hall of Elements, where you will find fantastic loose gems, alongside beautiful new and estate gem-set jewels.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR With so many different varieties and qualities of gems, one might feel a bit overwhelmed trying to choose where to start.

RARE AND BEAUTIFUL Begin with the most exquisite rare and beautiful gems. It almost goes

without saying that our gem Hall 3 exhibitors go to the ends of the earth to bring us only the best of the best, the most beautiful and rare finds to be collected and worn. But rarity alone doesn’t necessarily equate to beauty, and so it is important to note that we should focus on gems that are both rare and beautiful. Rare and beautiful rubies from A. Hakimi & Sons (3.0, C35), rare and beautiful white South Seas pearls, golden South Seas pearls, and black South Seas pearls with Alain Boite S.A.S (3.1, D25), or a

rare and beautiful – and especially large – deep-red 30-carat Burmese spinel, from ALine GmbH (3.1, A27). Whether it is for monetary investment or enjoyment, these are the gems you want to be holding.

NATURAL ORIGIN One of the recurring themes this year will be the notation of “natural – no enhancements.” This is such an important aspect of gem hunting today, and can critically affect value and saleability. Because so many gems are treated to enhance colour

and/or clarity, it is truly rare to find the untreated/unenhanced gems. This includes diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires, opals, topazes, and more. Natural pearls too are extremely rare, and even with that said, you will find them in Hall 3. However, this year, we have something even more special with Andrew Cohen and the DeYoung Collection (3.0, D01). They are bringing with them a magnificent all-natural strand of black Tahitian South Seas pearls. That’s right, they are not cultured, not bead nucleated. Have you ever seen one? Now is your chance to actually own one! Antwerp Coloured Gems (3.0, D37) specializes in natural untreated coloured gemstones. Busatti S.r.l. (3.0, D19) is bringing with them a 40-carat natural Melo pearl necklace which should be worth a visit.

TANZANITE WOULDN`T BE TANZANITE

These 16.8 to 14 mm fabulous lustre and colour golden South Seas strand are from Australia Pearls (3.1, D41).

Huge Chinese freshwater bead nucleated baroques from London Pearl (3.0, D07).

Sure, the popularity of natural gems includes many varieties that are naturally beautiful and need no additional enhancement. But these are rare gems. If most gems were not treated, we wouldn’t have much of a gem-set jewellery business.

So don’t be afraid of a little treatment. Some gems are in need of a little help, something that will enhance its natural beauty. Traditional heat and gamma irradiation are common treatments giving gems a permanent colour and/or clarity enhancement. If it weren’t for heat treatment, we would most likely have no tanzanites (almost all tanzanite is heat treated brown Zoisite to create purple-blue tanzanite) or Citrines (almost all citrines are heat treated amethysts). And we would definitely not have any blue topaz without irradiation. Emeralds are almost always enhanced to mask their inherent fissures, using a little fissure filling with oils and resins are common practice. Since this is not a permanent treatment, it is important for you to ask specifics from the emerald exhibitor so you can assess value and possible future enhancement maintenance.

FANCY COLOUR DIAMONDS Cora International LLC (3.0, E01), Eli Etani (3.1, D17), Eshed DiamGemstar (3.0, B31), Gembel European Sales NV (3.0, D15), Gemcut SA (3.0, D12), Leibish & Co. Ltd. (3.1, N21), Rachminov 1891 (3.0, B25), all are bringing natural fancy

GEMSTONES 81 THURSDAY, APRIL 25.2013

coloured diamonds – So much fun and so little time!

COLOUR – IT IS SO IMPORTANT TO GET THE RIGHT LOOK! Are you looking for vivid saturation of something more pastel, something light, something silky? Talking colour is the expertise of the gem experts of Hall 3. If you are looking for the big three, emerald, ruby, and sapphire, then you might consider shopping at Veerasak Gems (3.1, D07) for vivid red Burmese rubies, Joseph Gad (3.1, D39) for vivid green emeralds, or Sara Gems (3.1, B27) for vivid blue sapphires.

(3.0, B03), Ernst Färber (3.0, C03), or Andrew Cohen & the DeYoung Collection (3.0, D01).

SOME GEMS ARE BIGGER THAN OTHERS

BIG AND SMALL ALIKE – LOOK FOR QUALITY OF CUTTING AND DESIGN

By Christoph Hoffmann

Well-cut gems matters. If you want the best sparkle, the best colour, the best overall appearance of a gem, than cutting quality makes a huge difference. China Stone (3.1, F33) probably has the market on wellcut tiny (1 mm and smaller!) coloured gems, unless you want to include Hall 1’s Swarovski (1.1, C21) and their natural coloured gems division.

GEM CARVINGS You do not have to stick with the traditional faceting or cabochon gems here. At BASELWORLD 2013, you have a number of gem carvers who have a wide assortment of carved varieties, like Herbert Klein (3.1, B01) and Henn (3.1, E27).

ESTATE GOODS AND GEMS WITH PROVENANCE You have to love being able to own a piece of jewellery that has more than just beauty – it has history! It has a story. Stop into Horovitz and Totah (3.0, A01), Faerber Collection

Chinese freshwater coin cultured pearls measuring a whopping 30+ mm from London Pearl (3.0, D07).

Every week, BBC World News reaches more business decision makers than all other international print titles*. Advertise with us to target affluent individuals beyond the reach of the rest of the news media. It’s time to be seen where it matters. Contact Laeticia de Belloy on +33 1 44 95 84 06 or [email protected] advertising.bbcworldwide.com *EMS 2012, target group is all respondents (48,974,000 / 27,887) intl print publications are: Businessweek, Newsweek, Economist, NY Times or Time

… AND THE BIGGER THEY ARE, THE HARDER THEY ARE TO FIND

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nly a few larger top quality stones have been found across the world. And Bayco will unveil one of them. The New York-based company Bayco Jewels will be presenting something special at its stand at noon. A stone of truly huge proportions will be unveiled. A gemstone, that amazes by its enormous size and its flawless perfection. A gemstone, that displays the whole beauty oft the nature. Leading gemmological institutes have already got their hands on that particular stone. And they all agree: This gemstone is one of the most overwhelming stones ever found. The Gübelin GemLab confirms: “It displays a remarkable degree of transparency. Foreign filling substances are absolutely absent. Such a combination of outstanding attributes is very rare and establishes this gem’s position in a very elite class”. C. Dunaigre states: “By their combination of outstanding properties, some gemstones deserve more than just

words. They deserve consideration and respect for the amazing forces of nature that created them and made them so perfect. A stone such as this is truly unique and can never be replaced. This amazing gem is a priceless treasure that will last forever in the memories of the few that are given the chance to appreciate its timeless beauty”. And, of course,

the company itself is exited about the unveiling. Moris Hadjibay, one of the co-owners of Bayco, says with anticipation: “It will be unlike anything anyone has ever seen before. It is our great privilege to be the ones to unveil this gift from the earth of such magnitude for the world to see. This is truly a masterpiece of mother nature”. 1.1, E09

The Bayco booth: something huge is coming ...

82 WORLD OF BASEL THURSDAY, APRIL 25.2013

MOMENTS TO ENJOY AN IMPRESSIVE OPENING SHOW FOR THE MEDIA By Magdalena Malawska

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AS ELWORLD’s new building was officially declared open at the Grand Opening Ceremony. Media representatives were invited to an exclusive concert by American singer Lana del Rey in the new City Lounge on Tuesday evening. They also had the opportunity to jot down some statements by trade show representa-

View of the stage before the show gets underway.

“The results of our work are now here for all to see and experience” tives beforehand: “The time has finally come,” said Sylvie Ritter, Managing Director of BASELWORLD. “The results of our work, which has taken several years to complete, are now here for all to see and experience”. She hoped the evening would be “a moment we can all enjoy”. René Kamm, CEO of the MCH Group, was also looking forward to celebrating the new opening and seeing the international star guest. He said of the new features at BASELWORLD: “Everything has changed for BASELWORLD. It isn’t just the packaging - the new halls, the new stands - it is also how we promote BASELWORLD, using all means available. We want to take the show to the next levFrom left to right: René Kamm, CEO of the MCH Group, Sylvie el”. And this has Ritter, Managing Director of BASELWORLD and Ulrich Vischer, undoubtedly been Chairman of the Board of the MCH Group.

Viewers watch the BASELWORLD Grand Opening Ceremony.

Lana del Rey performs at the opening show.

achieved, not least thanks to the spectacular light show which took place shortly before Lana del Rey’s performance. The young singer performed a few of her songs and impressed the spectators with her

NEW BOOKS most virtuosic pieces. Some are as intricate as Chinese embroidery; others are as ethereal and delicate as butterflies; still others are jewelled reinterpretations of timeless works of music and art, from Beethoven’s Moonlight Sonata and Puccini’s Turandot to Monet’s Water Lilies and Van Gogh’s Irises. All in all: a Symphony of Jewels. The book also contains a dazzling introduction to the work of Anna Hu, China’s first internationally acclaimed female jewellery designer. Her clients include singer Madonna, artist Cindy Sherman, presenter Oprah and actress Gwyneth Paltrow. (mm)

The spectacular light show before Lana del Rey’s performance.

UNIQUE – THE BEST JEWELLERY DESIGNERS

ANNA HU. SYMPHONY OF JEWELS – OPUS 1 Inspired by Chinese art and folklore, Western art and music, and the natural world, Anna Hu’s exquisitely designed and executed pieces have catapulted her to the top of the jewellery firmament in a few short years. This luxurious volume celebrates the completion of Anna Hu’s first 100 works, or “Opus 1” as she calls the collection. Its texts address various aspects of Anna Hu’s work, including the relationship between her jewellery and fashion, the impact that her passionate study of the cello has had on her jewellery design, and the remarkable gemstones that inspired her to make some of her

elaborate melodies – and with her openness. She constantly walked down the steps from the stage to sign autographs for her fans in the first few rows or to pose for photos with them.

Janet Zapata, Carol Woolton, David Warren and David Behl, Anna Hu. Symphony of Jewels – Opus I, Thames & Hudson, Hardback, 160 pages, 330 x 280 mm, 130 colour illustrations, English, ISBN 978-0500-516577, 80 Swiss francs.

“We hope, with this first edition, to highlight designers and their “Unique” works allowing the public to discover their creative diversity,” says Kyra Brenzinger, journalist and author of “Unique – The Best Jewellery Designers“. This book reveals 50 jeweller storytellers, jeweller architects, jeweller designers and simply those who are lovers of beautiful stones and pearls, whether they come from France, Austria, Belgium, Luxembourg, England, Spain or even further afield: Brazil, the USA, Russia, China or Lebanon. In addition to an introduction to uniqueness in the field of art, reports by the author and specialist Odile Emanuelli, this publication also

includes photos of new creations and prominent collections as well as an address book. (mm) Kyra Brenzinger, Unique – les meilleurs Joailliers Créateurs [Unique - the best Jewellery Designers] Bleu des Airs Editions, 208 pages, 210 x 210 mm, Texts in French and English, 44 Swiss francs.

GREAT STYLE IN TIME

COVER EXPRESSIONS Co 158 Piedra

The creation of unique and captivating timepieces is the core of our family-owned enterprise. At COVER’s headquarters in the historic town of Solothurn, all COVER watches are passionately being manufactured by hand, for Swiss Made quality that can be felt and seen at first glance. COVER has successfully established itself in over 50 countries worldwide; it truly is a convincing international brand.

SWISS MADE WWW.DISCOVERCOVER.COM

HALL 1.2 STAND A53

84 WORLD OF BASEL THURSDAY, APRIL 25.2013

FREE SHOW GUIDE FOR BASELWORLD 2013

GUIDED TOURS FOR JOURNALISTS

APP FOR IPHONE, IPAD AND OTHER SMART PHONES AVAILABLE

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he new BASELWORLD App is now available free of charge in the App Store. This year, once again, it includes interactive 3D hall plans, which will make it easier for you to find your way around the new exhibition site. With the aid of the detailed information on the exhibitors and media, and an overview of the events and press conferences, you will be in a position to prepare your visit to BASELWORLD in the optimum manner. Alongside the familiar functions, you will also find a new feature in the BASELWORLD 2013 App: you can now add your own notes and photos to an exhibitor‘s entry, so that you can save important information in a simple and convenient manner and then call it up again at a later date. During the show, you will additionally find selected articles from the current issue of the BASELWORLD Daily News.

The new BASELWORLD App is free of charge and is available for the iPhone, iPad, BlackBerry, Android and other smartphones.

ournalists at BASELWORLD are invited to take part in the first guided tours of the World Watch and Jewellery Show. In the course of the one-hour tour on the topic of architecture/design and fashion, they will be taken to the hotspots in the halls and given exciting background information by specialist guides. The architecture/design tour is centred on the new hall complex by Basel architects Herzog & de Meuron and stand architectures of an unprecedented variety and quality. Particular attention will be paid to the stands of the Global Brands in Hall 1, which have been designed by eminent architects and creative stand designers. The fashion tour focuses on the close link that exists between BASELWORLD and the leading fashion houses. While many of the collections exhibited at BASELWORLD reflect the big fashion trends and currents from the international catwalks, influences in the opposite direction can also be seen.

Just brilliant. Onsite shipping services at BASELWORLD. FedEx is your Official Courier Service Provider here on site. fedex.com/ch/baselworld [email protected] 0848 1 33339 (CHF 0.08/min. from a Swiss landline; mobile charges depend on provider)

TOUR DATES Friday, April 26, 2013 Saturday, April 27, 2013 To register for a tour please call: +41 58 206 26 33 The tours are in English only, the number of spaces is limited.

86 SERVICE THURSDAY, APRIL 25.2013

HALL FLOOR PLANS 2013

IMPRINT BASELWORLD Daily News A publication by Untitled Verlag und Agentur GmbH & Co. KG Managing Director: Dr. Christian Jürgens

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PALACE

Editorial Management: Mathias Menzel, Caroline Schiedt tel. +41 61 699 80 57 [email protected] Editors: Watches: William George Shuster (wgs), Iris Wimmer-Olbort (iwi), Sabine Zwettler (sz) Jewellery: Dr. Roberto Chilleri (rc), Nina Hald (nh), Axel Henselder (ahe), Christel Trimborn (cete) Gemstones: Christoph Hoffmann (ch), Gary Roskin (gr), Deborah Yonick (dy) Markets: Axel Henselder (ahe)

1 GLOBAL BRANDS HALL 1.0 HALL 1.1 HALL 1.2

RELATED BRANCHES HALL 3.0 HALL 3.1 HALL 4.U

INTERNATIONAL BRANDS HALL 2.0 HALL 2.1 HALL 2.2 PALACE

NATIONAL PAVILIONS HALL 4.0 HALL 4.1

Innovations: Pia Grund-Ludwig (pgl), Markus Strehlitz (ms) World of Basel: Magdalena Malawska (mm) Contributors: Pooja Agarwal (pa), Gloria Belloni (gb), Carol Besler (cb), Kyra Brenzinger (kb), David Brough (db), Elizabeth Doerr (ed), Annalisa Fontana (af), Roberta Naas (rn)

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Art Direction: Janina Demiana Roll, Kerstin Vorwalter

UPCOMING DATES FOR BASELWORLD March 27 – April 3, 2014 March 19 – March 26, 2015

Layout: Sandra Fink, Martin Tubbesing, Heike Wahnbaeck, Marlene Wolf Picture editors: Tobias Indermühle, Andre Weinberg Photos: Hannes Magerstaedt, David Matthiesen, Volker Renner, Daniel Stauch, Franz Unterbirker

GENERAL INFORMATION OPENING HOURS Daily: 9 am – 6 pm Last day (Thursday, May 2): 9 am – 4 pm PRICES OF ADMISSION Day ticket Eight-day ticket

CHF 60.– CHF 150.–

CATALOGUE BASELWORLD 2013 The World Watch and Jewellery Show CHF 40.– PRESS CENTRE On the Exhibition Square MEDIA CENTRE On the Exhibition Square Providing all the international daily newspapers and economic journals and also selected fashion and lifestyle magazines, as well as the complete spectrum of publications revolving around the watch and jewellery industry. BASELWORLD SHOP On the Exhibition Square Catalogue Centre, Book Shop, SBB Swiss Federal Railways, Läckerli-Huus RAIL SBB Swiss Federal Railways BASELWORLD Shop, on the Exhibition Square Swiss railway SBB, tel. +41 900 300 300 French railway SNCF, tel. +33 892 35 35 35 German railway DB, tel. +49 1805 99 66 33 AIR TRAVEL SERVICE Swiss International Air Lines Reservation Swiss International Air Lines, tel. +41 848 700 700 Information EuroAirport Basel-MulhouseFreiburg: tel. +41 61 325 31 11 Zurich Airport: tel. +41 900 30 03 13

AIRPORT EuroAirport Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg (10 km from Basel city centre) and Zurich Airport (90 km from Basel city centre). A shuttle bus service is available which takes you directly to the Basel Exhibition Centre from EuroAirport Basel-MulhouseFreiburg (daily from 8.15 am to 7.15 pm) as well as from Zurich Airport (daily from 7.30 am to 7 pm). LOST PROPERTY Hall 2.0 tel. +41 58 206 26 12, fax +41 58 206 20 70 TRAM Tram stop “Messeplatz” Trams no. 2 and 1 to SBB and SNCF railway stations (8 min.) Trams no. 2 and 6 to German railway station “Badischer Bahnhof” (2 min.) BASEL TOURISM Tourist Information/Hotel reservation in the Stadtcasino at Barfüsserplatz, CH-4010 Basel tel. +41 61 268 68 68 fax +41 61 268 68 70 [email protected] www.basel.com EXHIBITION CUSTOMS OFFICE Hall 2, Foyer tel. +41 58 206 21 22 BANK – CHANGE – SAFE Basler Kantonalbank: Congress Center branch

FREE SHOW GUIDE FOR SMART PHONES Get the free BASELWORLD App for your iPhone, iPad, BlackBerry and other smart phones! It contains an interactive 3D map of the show, visitor information, detailed information on the exhibitors as well as a selection of articles from the current Daily News issue. Free download: baselworld.com/app

GET IN TOUCH WITH BASELWORLD Join us on Facebook or follow our latest news on Twitter or Weibo – and interact with us and other visitors! facebook.com/baselworld twitter.com/baselworld weibo.com/baselworld

BASELWORLD VILLAGE: HIGHLIGHT THE NIGHT Great atmosphere, delicious food, cocktails and live music! WHEN Thursday, April 25, 2013 to Wednesday, May 1, 2013 6 pm to 2 am WHERE Binningerstrasse 14 CH-4051 Basel

RESTAURANTS Osteria Acqua – Italian culinary elixir in a unique setting www.acquabasilea.ch Baracca Zermatt – enjoy Swiss food in a chalet style atmosphere www.baraccazermatt.ch

We will be pleased to accept your table reservations on tel. +41 61 564 66 66

Translation and Proofreading: Ad Rem Sprachdienstleistungen, Amy Brooke, Prisca DeGroat, Howard Fine, Konstanze Plötz, Kenneth Ross Advertising: MCH Swiss Exhibition (Basel) Ltd. BASELWORLD CH-4005 Basel / Switzerland tel. +41 58 206 22 22 [email protected] Printing: Vogt-Schild Druck AG CH-4552 Derendingen www.vs-druck.ch Publisher’s address: Untitled Verlag und Agentur GmbH & Co. KG Medienpark Kampnagel Jarrestr. 2 D-22303 Hamburg, Germany tel. +49 40 189 881-0 fax +49 40 189 881-111 [email protected] BASELWORLD Daily News is published by Untitled Verlag und Agentur GmbH & Co. KG. Reprints of articles are obtainable on application to the publisher. All rights reserved. BASELWORLD Daily News may not be reproduced in any manner of form without written permission.

EDITORIAL OFFICE News to share? Contact us! tel. +41 61 699 80 57 [email protected]

design ciotolaepartners.it

28 april 2013 from 18.00 baselworld hall 1.2 booth 01

alfex live experience event

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MANERO CHRONOPERPETUAL A perpetual calendar with date, day, month and moon phase display that never needs correction: the movement of the Manero ChronoPerpetual will need no manual adjustment until 2100. Its exterior of timeless classicism offers a comprehensive display with perfection of form. A watch for connoisseurs who appreciate the masterly achievements of traditional watchmaking and high functional efficiency – strictly limited and exclusive. BOUND T O T R A DI T ION – DRIV EN BY INNOVAT ION

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