BOTSWANA & ZIMBABWE Neighbourly contrasts ... - Bailey Robinson

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BOTSWANA & ZIMBABWE Neighbourly contrasts

MARRAKECH An Insider’s Guide

BOTSWANA & ZIMBABWE Neighbourly contrasts

MARRAKECH An Insider’s Guide

PERUVIAN TRAILS The Paths of the Incas

PERUVIAN TRAILS The Paths of the Incas

Welcome to 2016 New Year brings great intentions and optimism for the months ahead. With this in mind it is also the perfect time to plan a holiday whether you want to escape the cold of winter in the coming months or are considering options for the summer. Yet sometimes we cannot decide where to travel because there is simply too much choice; do we want adventure or would we prefer a beach? Is it better to stay closer to home or head off further afield? There are so many destinations and types of holiday to choose from, we are sometimes spoilt for choice. Our new magazine is a taste of different ideas to inspire your travel plans. However, more than just inspiration from the following pages, you can trust our knowledge and enthusiasm to ensure you can sit back and look forward to that dream holiday. We are here to help so please do contact us, wherever you are thinking of travelling this year.

CONTACT US:

If you would like to book your next holiday to any of the destinations featured in our magazine, or if you would like us to create a completely bespoke itinerary, please do not hesitate to contact our friendly, specialist team or, better still, drop by for a chat.

a: Bailey Robinson, The Courtyard, Hungerford, Berkshire RG17 0NF t: +44 (0)1488 689700 f: +44 (0)1488 681973 e: [email protected] www.baileyrobinson.com

Rory Pilkington MANAGING DIRECTOR FOLLOW US:

@baileyrtravel baileyrtravel bailey robinson luxury travel google.com/+BaileyRobinsonTravel baileyrobinson_luxurytravel All the flights and flight-inclusive holidays in this publication are financially protected by the ATOL scheme. When you pay you will be supplied with an ATOL Certificate. Please ask for it and check to ensure that everything you booked (flights, hotels and other services) is listed on it. Please see our booking conditions for further information or for more information about financial protection and the ATOL Certificate go to: www.atol.org.uk/ATOLCertificate.

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Design: Silverless.co.uk Cover photo: Jonathan and Angela Scott

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CONTENTS | SPRING 2016 10

04

A Journey Through Dubrovnik

08

News

Inspirational Croatian culture What’s new & what’s hot

10  Family Friendly Maldives Paradise for parents

12

12

Oman Calm

16

Peruvian Trails

19

Alternative Cambodia

22

Basilicata to Puglia

Off-the-beaten-path luxury The paths of the Incas

42

Andalucían Adventures

44

Villa Holidays – Just a Walk Away

46

Overcoming Jet Lag

47

Ecuador, Latitude 0°

Exploring Granada & The Alpujarra Villas you can walk to town from Alleviate the effects The enchanted Galapagos Islands

52 Featured Hotels Buri Rasa Village & Palais Namaskar  54

Tiger, Tiger, India

56

In the Footsteps of Ian Fleming

58

American Family Adventure

Country contrasts

30

The Cape

62  Honeymoons

32

An Interview With... Susan d’Arcy

36

Totally Tamil Nadu

Beyond Angkor Wat An Italian road trip

24  Botswana & Zimbabwe

South Africa’s culinary capital

Thoughts from a travel expert Southern India’s temple state

40 Featured Hotels Daios Cove & Garden & Villas Resort 

Tracking the legendary cat At GoldenEye Resort, Jamaica Client thoughts from abroad The long and the short (haul) of it

64

Marrakech, Morocco

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What to Pack

70

Q&A

An insider’s guide Top safari travel tips Ask our team of experts

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C RO AT I A

Whether you are a first time visitor to Dubrovnik or the lure of the city has necessitated a return visit, one thing that will continually strike gladness in your heart is the sheer beauty of the Old City. Time has not eroded the magnificence of its baroque buildings that subtly nestle by the glistening Adriatic Sea. A walk around its streets and walls imparts echoes of the past that will enchant the modern visitor.

‘Croatia claims to be the Mediterranean as it once was’ 4 | SPRING 2016

OPPOSITE: Dubrovnik evening, overlooking the Old Port. THIS PAGE: (Clockwise from left) Domes & roofs; the old fortress; Cathedral, Dubrovnik; the Old City, Dubrovnik.

H I S TO R Y

C I T Y WA L L S

While Dubrovnik’s chequered history includes a struggle for independence and much conflict, the city has always bounced back to enchant visitors again. A living museum that offers an ideal connection between its past and present, Dubrovnik is surrounded by medieval ramparts known as the city walls. Inside them, the rich story of this UNESCO World Heritage Site unfolds at every turn – whether it be on the main street, Stradun (also called Placa), or at Porporela beach.

The main attraction of the Old City in addition to its monasteries and beautiful palaces are its ancient city walls with their intricate and complex system of forts, bastions, casements and towers. Dubrovnik’s most important feature, and a world-renowned symbol of its white stone beauty, they are also the main reason for the city’s modern moniker: the Pearl of the Adriatic.

Dubrovnik became a city of distinction in the 16th century, playing host to a fleet of 200 merchant navy vessels. It quickly became world-renowned and much sought-after for the transport of cargo which included very

Various forts are dotted along the 1,940 metres of ramparts that form the city walls. They have earned their place as one of the most grandiose fortification monuments in Europe. There are just three ways in: one located on the city’s western side at the very end of Stradun, another

diverse maritime and trade affairs. This prosperity continued for many years and is still evident now.

found eastwards, close to the inner Ploce Gate, and a third, quite-hidden entrance behind St. John Fortress, which is home to a Maritime Museum.

Over the years various wars took their toll on Dubrovnik but after Croatia won its independence, over time the city has been sympathetically restored. With a Summer Festival and other cultural events there is plenty to entice visitors. 5

OPPOSITE: Old stone streets of Dubrovnik’s Old City. THIS PAGE: (clockwise from left) Cable car above Dubrovnik; street scene in Ston near Dubrovnik; Stunning cocktails at the Cave Bar More; Croation wine overlooking the port; the bay of Trstenik, outside Dubrovnik.

EXPLORING DUBROVNIK The cable car which goes from the top of Mount Srd Hill is a great place to start, offering magnificent views of the Old City, the crystal-clear Adriatic Sea and numerous islands. There is also a restaurant with panoramic views, which are breathtaking. Stradun (or Placa) street is the main open, urban area of Dubrovnik and the most favoured promenade and gathering place. It is the venue of all public feasts and processions, plus the city core’s main business street. This widest and most beautiful thoroughfare divides the city into its northern and southern halves. Venture down smaller back alleys and you’ll come across quainter restaurants and charming wine bars. Alternatively, we can recommend a very good guide who can show you all the narrow lanes that you’d probably never have stumbled upon otherwise. Don’t miss a visit to the Franciscan Monastery Museum, to see artefacts of the Friars Minor Pharmacy dating from 1317. Situated at the very beginning of Stradun to the left of the inner Pile Gate and next to the Holy Saviour Church, this was one of the earliest chemists. The monastery church’s lateral facade runs alongside Dubrovnik’s principal street, with

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the monastery itself extending north along the walls as far as Mincˇ eta Tower. The Franciscan order arrived in Dubrovnik around 1234; their first monastery was located on the site of the current Hilton Imperial Hotel. Take in the sea breeze at Buža bar. Built into the rocks, this is a great place to go for a drink and admire the fantastic views of nearby Lokrum – aka the Island of Love, where supposedly, centuries of rich history, legends, tales and the magic of the sea and nature will revive old loves, or inspire new ones. Another hotspot is Cave Bar More, again built into the rocks and stretching over three levels. This unique, natural cave setting is the perfect place to sip fabulous pre-dinner cocktails. Whether it’s marvelling at the Mediterranean lifestyle and the interplay of light and stone, tracing the rise and fall of Dubrovnik in museums replete with art and artefacts, frequenting charming restaurants and shops, or plunging into the clear Adriatic, Dubrovnik can perfectly provide both beach and cultural experiences – and suits short breaks or extended stays equally well.

W I N E TA S T I N G Wine tasting while in Croatia is a must and Saints Hills Winery is a new option in the scenic Pelješac peninsula, just north of where it joins the mainland. So peaceful is the atmosphere on this peninsula – a miraculouslypreserved wonder of Mediterranean nature and culture – that you can easily suspect that the clocks must have been stopped, somewhere in the times before smartphones and constant rush. In beautiful vineyards, you’ll slowly get the picture of what Saints Hills’ wines are all about. They are all made by hand, because nature does not allow machines in Dingacˇ , which was the first place in Croatia to be recognised, in 1961, as an appellation with ‘Protected Geographical Origin’. The wine-making revolves around sun, sea, stone and really hard graft. “Vinaria”, the local name for Saints Hills, is an old stone house in a little village of Oskorušno. This building was actually a winery long ago, before its owners left on a quest for better life over the ocean, leaving it to sleep for 80 years.

“a miraculously-preserved wonder of Mediterranean nature and culture” The wines are made from indigenous grapes, using new technologies and contemporary know-how, and are consulted upon by Michel Rolland, one of the world’s more recognised oenologists. But the peninsula’s beautiful nature is what gives the tipple its special character. And this narrative is echoed by cuisine served in the gorgeous and intimate restaurant, which can be hired for exclusive use. All the ingredients are fresh and local, with many grown in Saints Hills’ own vegetable and spice garden. Dishes tend to be Dalmatian traditional recipes given a little twist by talented Chef Špiro Pavlić – who is just 24, and backed up by a 19-year-old Sous chef. The food served brings new perspective to the wines, and together they will delight any taste-buds. Located an hour and a half from Dubrovnik itself, it is definitely worth a visit.

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NEWS

THE RIO 2016 OLYMPICS

What’s new & what’s hot

Rumour has it there are still some tickets and hotel packages to be had for the next edition of the world’s greatest sporting event and the Paralympics that follow. Rio de Janeiro is gearing up for the Games and despite some negative publicity, those who know Brazil or Carnival will be aware that noone holds a party quite like the Cariocas. Many of the events are set to take place in unforgettable iconic locations such as the opening ceremony and football in the Maracana and sailing just off Copacabana Beach. While some Olympic packages may still be available, without doubt Brazil and marvellous Rio will be cheaper and maybe simpler to visit at other times before and after the big events.

HOT PROPERTY

AMANEMU, JAPAN (Opening March 2016)

Aman are known for their exceptional service and personal experiences and their resorts are always located in wonderful, natural settings. Amanemu, Japans’ second Aman is set to open in 2016 and doesn’t disappoint in its location; perched on the rolling shores of Ago Bay (famed for its pearl cultivation) inside the Ise Shima National Park, within easy reach of ancient pilgrimage routes which wind through forests and lead to sacred Shinto shrines.

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SIX SENSES ZIL PASYON, SEYCHELLES (Opening June 2016)

Comprising just 30 villas and 17 private residences each with a private pool, Six Senses Zil Pasyon opens on the private island of Felicité this year. Encircled by clear warm Indian Ocean waters, the island’s white sandy beaches, dotted with granite boulders, can be reached in luxury by helicopter from the international airport, or via a short boat ride from neighbouring Praslin or La Digue islands.

MIAVANA, MADAGASCAR (Opening October 2016)

With the architects of North Island behind the luxury, and marine-reserve potential, Miavana, located on private Nosy Ankao island is sure to set new standards. Each of the vast one-to-three bedroom villas has steps leading straight onto the sand, and a superb reef ensures great snorkelling and diving opportunities. If that’s not enough, there is also whale and dolphin watching, fishing, jet skiing and helicopter rides to see the lemurs on mainland Madagascar.

HOT DESTINATION: SRI LANKA

A host of new hotel openings across the emerald isle of Sri Lanka are set to make 2016 a great time to visit this diverse and unique country. Chena Huts is the latest boutique hotel to join the Uga Escapes family and opened in December 2015. Nestled in 2 hectares of wilderness with Yala National park to one side and the Indian Ocean on the other and consisting of 14 wooden cabins each with private deck and plunge pool, it brings a new level of luxury to the Sri Lankan safari experience.

January 2016 also sees the opening of The Fort Bazaar, located in the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Galle Fort, on Sri Lanka’s southern coast. The hotel offers 18 stylish rooms and suites alongside a pool, spa and gourmet restaurant, with acclaimed Australian Chef Neal Giles at the helm. Meanwhile in the central Hill Country, the renowned Tea Trails is set to unveil a fifth bungalow in February 2016. Named Dunkeld, the new bungalow will afford spectacular views and be poised high above Castlereagh Lake offering panoramic vistas from its infinity pool and hot tub.

NEW FLIGHT ROUTES BA - London Heathrow (LHR) Mahon, Menorca (MAH) 4 x weekly from 29 April 2016 BA - London Heathrow (LHR) JALAKARA, ANDAMAN ISLANDS (Opened December 2015)

Boutique comfort comes to the Bay of Bengal as Jalakara opens on Havelock Island. Since the introduction of helicopter transfers, the incredibly untouched Andaman Islands are easier to get to yet their exquisite beaches, rainforests and pristine reefs retain an undiscovered feel. Perched on a hillside, Jalakara is the first luxurious (yet homely) property in the region with just 7 villa-style rooms and suites. There are plenty of water sports on offer and the island begs to be explored.

BELMOND EAGLE ISLAND, BOTSWANA (Opened December 2015)

Following an almost total rebuild, Belmond Eagle Island Lodge offers the ultimate luxurious safari in the Okavango Delta. The $7 million spend is evident everywhere in its contemporary design, while Botswana’s heritage and wildlife have been illuminated with the magnificent colours throughout the lodge. Each of the 12 huge tented rooms boast hand-stitched furniture and private plunge pools, and the lodge is one of the most perfectly positioned places for water based safaris.

Palermo, Sicily (PMO) 2 x weekly from 30 April 2016 BA - London Gatwick (LGW) – Lima, Peru (LIM) 3 x weekly from 4 May 2016 BA - London Gatwick (LGW) – San Jose, Costa Rica (SJO) 2 x weekly from 27 April 2016 SAA - Cape Town (CPT) – Maun, Botswana (MUB) 5 x weekly from 11 March 2016

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MALDIVES

No longer just a faraway paradise for romantics or honeymooners, the Maldives has become a top destination for families thanks to its warm, shallow lagoons, kids’ clubs and year-round sunshine. At 10 hours the flight there is fairly long but that’s soon forgotten amid a wonderful array of outdoor activities. These range from marine biology lessons to beach-based DJ courses – so there are no guilty feelings when leaving your little ones to explore – while there are lots of things in which the whole family can engage, such as dolphin-watching and various water sports. Add in barefoot luxury, time-out for adults and fun for children and you already have a truly magical mix. Yet properties are now adding still extra enticement with ‘kids stay and eat for free’ offers making the Maldives more affordable. Here are some of our top choices.

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LUX* SOUTH ARI ATOLL Best for: All-Inclusive Vibe: Relaxed Kids’ Club ages: 3-12yrs and babysitting available Activities: Crab racing, coconut painting, cookery classes, teddy tennis and yoga to name just a few. Children can also learn to blend juices and earn a Young Mixologist certificate, embark on a Young Environmentalist Programme to discover the island’s tropical fauna or gain a deeper understanding with the resident marine biologist. Teens aren’t left out either, thanks to a beach cinema and the Musik club. For Parents: Explore magnificent dive sites full of colourful marine life, relax in the exclusive Infinity Spa or enjoy romantic picnics on a desert island. Cost: From £9,195 (low season) & £13,295 (high season), 7 nights, all-inclusive in a 2 bedroom family beach pavilion including international flights & transfers, based on a family of 4.

SONEVA FUSHI Best for: Family villas on the beach Vibe: Rustic perfection Kids’ Club ages: 4-12yrs and babysitting available Activities: Newly-opened, The Den is as imaginative as kids’ clubs get, featuring two pools, an 8-metre-high pirate ship on the beach and a zip line through the jungle. Dedicated to different activities, its series of linked pavilions include the Lego Room, a DJ corner and a Mocktail Bar, and outdoor activities include Bear Grylls-style survival classes, sailing regattas and even a sleep-out under the stars on Pirate Island. For Parents: Breakfast on a sandbank, the Six Senses Spa, stargazing from the island’s own observatory and sunset cruises. Cost: From £9,835 (low season) & £15,595 (high season),7 nights, B&B in a 2 bedroom family villa including international flights & transfers, based on a family of 4.

PER AQUUM NIYAMA Best for: Variety Vibe: Quirky yet stylish Kids’ Club ages: 1-12yrs and babysitting available Activities: This is the only resort to offer a kids’ club for under 3s. Factor in an Annabel Karmel-devised baby menu and you know attention to detail is key. The Explorer's Club has a high ratio of carers to children, with the juniors split into age groups providing tailor-made activities. Jungle Safari, Princess and Circus-themed days are packed with entertainment, while Master Chef classes and sports activities keep the older ones amused. For Parents: Go kayaking in a clear-bottom boat, feast on your in-room deli, enrol in an adults-only activity programme or eat dinner high up in the trees at Nest. Cost: From £10,600 (low season) & £15,935 (high season), 7 nights, B&B in a Beach Pool suite including international flights & transfers, based on a family of 4. 11

OMAN The Canvas Club, Musandam Peninsula

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An ancient land with scenery of staggering proportions that surprises at every turn, Oman is definitely not your preconceived image of the Middle East. Unrest in the Arab world has left most of us nervous, but Oman remains a politically stable and peaceful country, completely immune to the turmoil of other areas in the region. Spending most of the 20th century in isolation, it has an immense sense of identity, culture and tradition. This is a place where you can truly engage with local Arab life and whose wonderful hospitality is legendary. Perched on the Arabian Peninsula’s tip, Oman has a hoard of sandy white Indian Ocean beaches along its 2,000 kilometres of quiet coastline, which is also dotted with palm trees and fishing boats. The interior consists of jagged mountains, vast deserts and towering dunes, while Omani towns’ colourful bazaars and souks brim with perfume, silverware and silk. Most of the few tourists who visit Oman only experience the capital, Muscat; outside of this city, it’s as though you have the country completely to yourself. One of the best ways to see Oman is by camping. No, we haven’t gone mad! The Canvas Club is truly unique: based on personal preferences, a bespoke, luxury camp is set up for you wherever desired. Pick a secluded cove, the magical sand dunes, dramatic mountain ranges or a lush green river valley, and the rest is done for you.

With standards to match a high-end hotel, the spacious tents filled with fine fabrics and authentic decor from local souks quickly become your retreat from the world. Arabian majilis (seating areas), scattered with Oriental cushions provide an elegant atmosphere, and are perfect for relaxing and taking in the view, while a personal chef is on hand to whip up campfire barbecues or threecourse candlelight dinners. These camps can be assembled across Oman, from the Wahiba Desert and the Hajar Mountains to Khalouf Beach or the Musandam Peninsula, meaning you can see all of Oman’s diversity in authentic Bedouin style. This is possibly one of the most personal experiences in the world. Rates vary depending on the number of people, duration and location, but budget on approximately £995 per person for 2 nights half board.

Contrasting dramatically with the neighbouring United Arab Emirates, the Sultanate of Oman’s peaceful mountains, vast deserts and numerous wadis (valleys) have a remote and undiscovered feel. 13

Hajar Mountains

Musandam Peninsula

Muscat old town

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Mountain Retreat On a vast canyon’s edge, 2,000 metres above sea level on a high plateau, sits the Alila Jabal Akhdar - just 2 hours’ drive from Muscat. Its stone-clad suites are positioned to take in the Hajar Mountain range’s stark beauty, while the pool and excellent spa are there for when you tire of all the activities – from hiking and cookery courses to visits to the ancient market city of Nizwa.

STAY :

Our favourite places to stay here are The Chedi Muscat, a relaxing chic-boutique hotel ideal for couples, Al Bustan Palace, a wonderfully over-the-top Ritz-Carlton Hotel with its own private beach and the Shangri-La Barr Al Jissah Resort & Spa, which blends three hotels and is perfect for families.

Alila Jabal Akhdar

COMBINE WITH :

Northern Delights

SixSenses Zighy Bay

Perfectly positioned on the Musandam Peninsula, Six Senses Zighy Bay is surrounded by desert fiords and is set in its own cove, lapped by warm waters. Oozing Omani romance, this is a very private beach resort with a great range of activities. While you can drive from Dubai, just 2 hours away, or stop at Dibba and transfer by speedboat, you can also make a real entrance by hitching yourself to a tandem paraglider (with a professional pilot) and soar above the mountains before touching down on the beach.

BEST TIME TO GO :

Magical Muscat Oman’s capital, Muscat, is a blend of modern and old-fashioned charm. Home to a quarter of Oman’s population, the city is blessed with desert, mountain and coastal scenery and remains understated with low-rise white-washed buildings in keeping with traditional Arab architecture. Visit the Muttrah Souk, a hub of mercantile activity, where the smell of sandalwood wafts through the confusing alleyways, the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, a huge marble

Chedi Muscat

There is plenty to explore in Oman and it makes a great destination in its own right – although it is also easily combined with the Maldives or Seychelles for the perfect mix of adventure and relaxation. For the more adventurous, it can also be added to an Indo-China itinerary giving endless possibilities.

fortress and the Bait Al Zubair Museum where rich cultural heritage is on display.

We dare say it - Oman has guaranteed winter sunshine. Northern Europe’s winter is the best time to go: from October to mid-April.

FLIGHTS :

Oman Air flies direct to Muscat and has upgraded its first and business class lounges at Muscat International Airport. It is only a 7 hour flight.

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PERU

PERUVIAN TRAILS The stunning country of Peru sparkles with highlights, from the historic capital Lima, known as ‘the City of the Kings’ and now Latin America’s food capital, to the Amazon and glorious Cusco, rich in Spanish colonial architecture. The Incan heritage of the Sacred Valley, set amid soaring Andean peaks, contrasts beautifully with the Colca Canyon and its magnificent condors flying overhead, while the colourful local dress is as magical today as that dreamt up for the mythical Land of Oz. Machu Picchu is consistently named as one of the top three adventure holidays on worldwide travel wish-lists. For good reason British Airways will start flying direct from London to Lima for the first time from May 2016 so it has never been easier to reach Peru. Every age can be catered for on the various routes to Machu Picchu. Luxury trains can take you right to the town below the site, while those with a sense of adventure can spend between 1 and 6 days walking to the citadel, crossing mountain passes and tracing ancient Inca footsteps. The classic, 4-day Inca Trail provides memorable trekking but must be booked well ahead. Leave by train from the 1,000 year old streets of Cusco and dismount at the Km 88 start point, all set for a landmark journey. Take a deep breath, prepare for altitude, forget the modern world and simply walk, experiencing a multi-sensory delight. Alternatively, there is an option for 1 and 2-day walks on the final part of the main trail, but these are subject to availability due to the strictly-limited number of passes issued each day.

THIS PAGE: Overlooking the stunning ancient city of Machu Picchu in the morning light. OPPOSITE: (From top) Trekking through the Colca Canyon; Lima Cathedral; the luxury train makes its way towards Machu Picchu.

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When visiting Machu Picchu there are three further important choices to make, according to one of our local guides Darwin Santander: 3

2

1 Climb Huayna Picchu. One of the two mountains

Follow the trail up to the Sun Gate. The main entry

If overnighting in the Machu Picchu area, choose

framing the site, this rather vertiginous trail takes

gate for those that have walked to the site, this

to see either a sunrise or sunset over the site. It

around 45 minutes to ascend. The main benefit

high vantage point offers some of the best Machu

may be worth hedging your bets, as cloud-cover

is being able to enjoy the most fantastic views

Picchu vistas.

can often scupper the best-made plans. If you have

back down onto the citadel. Tickets must be pre-

a private guide, they’ll assist with finding the most

purchased at least several months ahead, and it

photographic spots as the sun either floods or

may be best to take the later 11am slot if possible,

retreats from the ruins.

as by then there is usually far less cloud.

THE

INCA TRAIL (4-DAY)

SERVICE

~Perurail~ RAIL TIMES CUSCO ~ MACHU PICCHU ~ CUSCO

DEPARTURE STATION

DEPARTURE TIME

ARRIVAL STATION

ARRIVAL TIME

Vistadome

31 Poroy (Cusco)

06:40

Machu Picchu

09:54

Expedition

33 Poroy (Cusco)

07:42

Machu Picchu

10:52

Vistadome

203 Poroy (Cusco)

08:25

Machu Picchu

12:11 12:24

Belmond Hiram Bingham*

11

Poroy (Cusco)

09:05

Machu Picchu

Vistadome

32

Machu Picchu

15:20

Poroy (Cusco) 19:05

Expedition

34

Machu Picchu

16:43

Poroy (Cusco) 20:23

Vistadome

604

Machu Picchu

17:23

Poroy (Cusco) 20:50

12

Machu Picchu

17:50

Poroy (Cusco) 21:16

Belmond Hiram Bingham*

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TRAIN

CAMBODIA

Situated between Thailand and Vietnam, the two titans of SouthEast Asian tourism, Cambodia is sometimes overlooked by travellers as a destination in its own right. Though huge numbers of people frequent the stunning 12th century temple complex of Angkor Wat, that’s often done in conjunction with one of the neighbouring lands – despite Cambodia having more than enough on offer to sustain a fascinating and varied holiday.

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THIS PAGE: (Clockwise from top left) Boy cooling down his buffalo; Rob trying sugar cane juice; Silver Pagoda, Phnom Penh; Rice fields; Lady in rural Cambodia; Royal Palace, Phonm Penh; Fishing boats, Kep. Opposite: (From left) Floating market; Local man.

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The country’s tragic history is never far away. There is a pronounced number of young people, far more so than elsewhere in the region and

As well as cruising or kayaking on the river, there are superb hiking opportunities and the chance to spot local wildlife.

most noticeably in the fast-developing capital, Phnom Penh. There you

The seaside village of Kep makes for a really appealing stay, with its

can also visit Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, the former site of a notorious

endearing local crab market offering incredibly fresh food to several

prison, as well as the harrowing Killing Fields. Virtually all Cambodians

beachfront restaurants. Kep can also be used as a base to explore the

have stories of either persecution or starvation from the Khmer Rouge era

coastal region, with the old colonial town of Kampot close by. The area’s

and yet, despite this dark and recent past, a feeling of optimism pervades

best place to stay is Knai Bang Chatt, a 14-room boutique property built

in these positive and friendly people. The city has its share of older attractions too, including the Royal Palace and Wat Phnom temple, with their mix of pagodas and stupas among Buddhist architecture. Though small by the standards of some

A feeling of optimism pervades in these positive and friendly people.

around an old Governor’s residence. Along with some of the country’s best food, it also boasts a beautiful pool area. The sailing club next door, meanwhile, provides the chance to get out onto the water, and just a short long-tail boat-ride away is Rabbit Island – a

Asian capitals, Phnom Penh can still be hectic. So ancient Oudong, around

tropical strip of sand backed by palm trees where you can go snorkelling

an hour’s journey north, makes for a laid-back day trip away from the

from the shore, have a massage or enjoy a delicious beach barbecue.

chaos. This city was Cambodia’s capital until the 19th century, and retains

As an emerging destination, Cambodia is not as polished as some of the

an interesting complex of temples to explore, while the market affords the

region’s alternative options, but that’s a huge part of its charm. Whether you

opportunity to meet more amicable locals.

spend your whole holiday here or visit as part of a larger South-East Asia

Most people choose to spend some time relaxing after all of these

itinerary, there is certainly plenty to enjoy in Cambodia.

cultural experiences and Cambodia has several great places to that end. The Cardamom Mountains, located close to the Thai border and set among beautiful Tatai River rainforest, are an excellent choice. 21

I T A LY

The unique and contrasting regions of Basilicata and Puglia offer historic sites, rural charm and two glorious coastlines dotted with picturesque settlements to explore. Visit the beautiful, UNESCO-protected towns of Alberobello and Matera, and feast on fresh seafood and local wines while exploring the rocky shores of Basilicata and enjoying Puglia’s plentiful sandy beaches.

Adriatic Sea

SARDINIA

ROMA Day 5–7 Tyrrhenian Sea

Day 8–11

Day 1–4 Ionian Sea

Mediterranean Sea

SICIL Y

THIS PAGE: View of Ostuni OPPOSITE: (From top) Coast views from Maratea; Matera; cave room at Sextantio Le Grotte della Civita; the coned roofs of Alberobello 22 | SPRING 2016

Day 1–4 Begin your trip in Maratea, its wonderful hilltop location framed by mountains and affording views of the sparkling Mediterranean Sea below. Known as the ‘town of 44 churches’, this scenic settlement is guarded by a towering Christ the Redeemer statue. Exploring the lanes of its beautiful historic centre and watching the world go by from an outdoor café in the main piazza are quiet pleasures. Nearby seaside towns Acquafredda and Fiumicello have plenty of deliciously fresh seafood on offer, while the sleepy inland villages of Lagonegro and Rivello are also well worth a visit. Stay at the stunning La Locanda delle Donne Monache set high on the mountainside. Day 5–7 Drive inland through Pollino National Park to Matera, reckoned to be one of the world’s oldest cities. Thanks to the extensive cave-dwelling districts of Sasso Barisano and Sasso Caveoso, this ancient place is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The huge cathedral contains a stunning 13th century Byzantine fresco, and many other impressive churches and museums yield additional insight into Matera’s long history. This most epic, cinematic landscape provided a setting for Carlo Levi’s film memoir Christ Stopped at Eboli, while parts of the controversial Passion of the Christ were also filmed here. Many of the caves have now been transformed into luxury boutique hotels offering unique places to stay. Choose between a converted church at L’Hotel in Pietra, or within the cave environs of Sextantio Le Grotte della Civita.

Day 8–11 Cross over into Puglia and spend a final few days in the coastal region of Fasano, an ideal base from which to explore. The Valle d’Itria is famed for its trulli (conical stone houses), with Alberobello having the greatest concentration of these. The whitewashed medieval hilltop town of Ostuni also offers some lovely walking opportunities and superb sea views. Beautiful sandy beaches, inviting beach bars and wonderful coastal restaurants are in abundance, as are charming coastal towns such as Gallipoli and the pretty port of Trani with its exquisite cathedral. Stay among olive groves at the authentic masseria Borgo San Marco or at the luxurious, family friendly Borgo Egnazia resort. Stay 11 nights from £995 per person B&B including flights & car hire. 23

BOTSWANA & ZIMBABWE

B OT S WA N A & Z I M B A B W E TWO VERY DIFFERENT COUNTRIES WITH MUCH IN COMMON 24 | SPRING 2016

BOTSWANA Into the Okavango

Celebrating 50 years of independence this year, Botswana is a true success story. Democracy, a forward-thinking outlook and spectacular wildlife have set the country apart and seen its tourism thrive. Located in the geographical heart of Southern Africa, Botswana’s landscape is unique. Particularly the Okavango Delta, where silvery, lily-strewn waterways are created by a mass of water forced down from the Angolan highlands. Yet this water never reaches the sea; instead it forms an inland wetland wilderness and creates the 1,000th UNESCO World Heritage Site.

ZIMBABWE Land of Giants

Not so long ago, Zimbabwe was believed to be Southern Africa’s best safari destination, and the reputation was well-earned. Sadly, politics then took centre stage – but with some of the best guiding in all of Africa and safaris here costing a fraction of neighbouring Botswana (despite equally prolific wildlife), tourism has seen a recent re-growth Its national parks are famed for both their beauty and game, and you cannot fail to be struck with awe at the sight of the spellbinding Victoria Falls.

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WHY GO TO BOTSWANA? The game-rich delta contrasts and can be combined with the expansive Kalahari Desert – where original Bushmen still live – making Botswana’s safari experience simply remarkable. With exceptional wildlife and just a limited number of camps, Botswana is widely regarded as a premier safari destination. The east’s Moremi Game Reserve covers about a quarter of the entire delta, and includes Chief’s Island – thorn-scrub and mopane woodland where predators roam. The rest of the delta is split into concessions, which are each run privately with only a few camps, although the game moves unhindered thanks to an absence of WITH EXCEPTIONAL WILDLIFE AND fences. Each boasting its own JUST A LIMITED NUMBER OF CAMPS, style, the camps mostly split BOTSWANA IS WIDELY REGARDED AS between ‘wet camps’ – offering A PREMIER SAFARI DESTINATION water-based activities such as motor-boat and mokoro (traditional African dugout canoe) trips on the delta’s papyrus-lined channels – and ‘dry camps’, which provide more conventional, land-based wildlife viewing, along with a few places offering both. In contrast, the Kalahari is dry for approximately 9 months of the year, meaning animals rely on creativity and cunning to stay alive. For the Bushmen who inhabit this area, this isn’t a problem as they employ ingenious huntergather techniques mastered over millennia. Nor for the social meerkats of the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans, who rely on teamwork. Fly-in safaris are recommended, and small Cessna planes or helicopters take you from one luxurious camp to the next, flying over abundant wildlife. This mode of transport does push up the price of a safari, yet the price does not always have to be elevated, with good deals to be had and secret seasons worth considering.

BOTSWANA QUICK FACTS

FROM TOP, (clockwise): Okavango Mokoros, (Tubu Tree); Duba Plains sundowner deck; wild dog, Abu Camp; mobile camping, Selinda Explorer; leopard; wildebeest (Okavango); Kalahari meerkats.

26 | SPRING 2016

Gaberone

Capital

Gaborone, 199,000

Area

581,730 sq km (224,607 sq miles)

Major Languages

English (official), Setswana

Major Religion

Christianity, indigenous beliefs

Monetary Unit

1 Pula = 100 thebe

Main Exports

Diamonds, copper, nickel, beef

GDP per Capita

U.S. $8,500

Flight time from London 10 hours to Johannesburg, 2 hour connection to Maun Time Difference

BOTSWANA

GMT + 2

WHY GO TO ZIMBABWE? Every moment in Zimbabwe is amplified with the knowledge that you could have chosen another destination, and so your presence is hugely appreciated. You won’t find convoys searching for the Big Five here; instead, it will likely just be your vehicle alone in true wilderness, with wildlife galore and sightings all to yourself. The country’s diverse landscapes positively beg to be explored: from the rugged and mountainous Eastern Highlands following the Mozambican border to the walkingTHE COUNTRY’S DIVERSE safari mecca of Mana Pools beside LANDSCAPES POSITIVELY the Zambezi River, which separates BEG TO BE EXPLORED Zimbabwe from Zambia. And that’s not all. You can also visit Hwange National Park – which sits on an ancient migration route, home to enormous populations of elephant and wild dog and located just a few hours’ drive from the newly-built Victoria Falls Airport – or go further afield and experience the untamed wilderness of Gonarezhou National Park, part of the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park which incorporates South Africa’s Kruger, around which animals roam freely. Aside from animals, see millennia of human history unfold in the Matobo Hills, where rock-art sites date back at least NOW IS A GOOD TIME TO 13,000 years, or visit the ruined city of GO BEFORE THE HORDES Great Zimbabwe near Masvingo. RETURN ONCE MORE With such an eclectic range of things to see and do, a trip to Zimbabwe is not only extremely personally rewarding, but ensures that landscapes, wildlife and local communities are preserved. With visitor numbers on the increase, now is a good time to go before the hordes return once more.

ZIMBABWE QUICK FACTS

Harare

Capital

Harare, 1,469,000

Area

390,759 sq km (150,873 sq miles)

Major Languages

English (official), Shona, Sindebele

Major Religion

Christianity, indigenous beliefs

Monetary Unit Multi-currency system; US dollar and South African rand predominate Main Exports Tobacco, cotton, agricultural products, gold, minerals GDP per Capita

ZIMBABWE

U.S. $2,100

Flight time from London 10 hours to Johannesburg, 1.10 hour connection to Harare Time Difference

GMT+ 2

FROM TOP, (clockwise): Pool with a view at Singita Pamushana; Chilo Gorge; elephant; star beds (both Ruckomechi Camp); elephant herd; lioness, (Hwange Linkwasha Camp); lilac-breasted roller; Victoria Falls.

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AFRICA CALENDAR 2016 When it comes to Africa, what with so many incredible places to see and things to do, choosing where to go is tough. To help, here are some of our suggestions for each month. Once you decide when to go, we will help you with the rest.

J JANUARY

2016

M MAY

2016

M T W T F S S 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 RWANDA/UGANDA 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19

F

FEBRUARY viving population of The world’s only sur 2016 s est for nse 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 abit the de mountain gorilla inh da, and the short dry 28 29 30 31 of Rwanda and Ugan e to trek to see these season is the best tim incredible primates.

M T W T F S S 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22

MOZAMBIQUE

Home to some of Africa’s most unspoilt

J JUNE

2016

beaches, the archipelagos of Mozambique 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 have an undiscovered feel and combine very 30 31 easily with safaris in Southern or East Africa.

S SEPTEMBER

2016

M T W T F S S 1 2 3 4 5

6 7

8

9 10 11

12 13 14 15 16 17 18 ZIMBABWE 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 There is barely a cloud in the sky, and gameviewing is excellent. Sightings are continuous 26 27 28 29 30 and large herds of elephant, along with much other wildlife, congregate around waterholes.

28 | SPRING 2016

M T W T F S S 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14

TANZANIA

15 16 17 18 19 20 21

To witness the Serengeti plains as millions of animals are grazing, giving birth and losing their lives to masses of predators is a memory that will stay with you forever.

22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29

M T W T F S S 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

O OCTOBER

2016

ZAMBIA

Not only is this the start of the dry season with game-viewing at its best, but with the Zambezi’s levels dropping, it’s also a good time to enjoy water activities and see Victoria Falls minus the spray.

M T W T F S S 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 MAURITIUS 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 It is springtime in Mauritius and the weather 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 is warm, but not yet humid. Tropical flowers 31

are also bursting into bloom during what is typically the country’s driest month.

M MARCH

2016

J JULY

2016

N NOVEMBER

2016

M T W T F S S 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 MALAWI 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

As the rains die out, young birds spread their 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 wings for the first time, making for great birdwatching. March is also an optimum time 28 29 30 31 to see the Nyika Plateau’s orchid displays.

M T W T F S S 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 BOTSWANA 11 12 13 14 15 16 17

As the awe-inspir ing grasslands of the 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 Okavango Delta flood, animals mu st adapt to 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 a watery existence – a changing en vir onment of which predat ors like to take ad vantage.

M T W T F S S 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

8 9 10 11 12 13

14 15 16 17 18 19 20 MADAGASCAR 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 Five per cent of the world’s animal and 28 29 30

plant species are unique to this mysterious island. Now is a good time to see baby lemur and explore desert, rainforest and beautiful coastline.

A APRIL

2016

M T W T F S S 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 NAMIBIA 11 12 13 14 15 16 17

25 26 27 28 29 30

A AUGUST

2016

DECEMBER

2016

dry season is approaching, its vegetation remains lush and temperatures moderate.

M T W T F S S 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31

D

The Namib Desert is best photographed

18 19 20 21 22 23 24 during April’s clear blue skies. Although the

KENYA

While there is little predictability to the Great Migration, now is normally a good time to catch thousands of wildebeest embarking on spectacular and dramatic crossings of the Mara River.

M T W T F S S 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 SOUTH AFRICA 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 Expect 11 hours of sunshine per day during 26 27 28 29 30 31

summertime in South Africa. Peak season causes a discernible holiday buzz, so do book early to ensure space.

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SOUTH AFRICA

Br

e at

h e i n m o u

nta re i n a i r, soak up azu

Atl

an tic

v

iew

30 | SPRING 2016

sa

nd

sam

ple s

ome o

d n a d f the world’s best foo

e n i w

i

.. . n

WINE... Owned by Laurence Graff, founder of Graff Diamonds, Delaire Estate near Stellenbosch is a true gem in the heart of the wine country. Exceptional merlot, chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon are produced, and South African wine bible Platter’s has once again awarded 5-star accolades to its vintages for 2016. Retire in luxury here after a day spent sampling the region’s delights. Long, sun-filled days are perfect for a picnic, and the wine estates dotted around Franschhoek, Stellenbosch and Constantia really up the ante. Naturally, the views couldn’t be better and there is no ‘bring your own blanket’ demand – just turn up, and it’s all done for you. At Buitenverwachting, for instance, pre-ordered gourmet picnics can be arranged.

DINE... It’s been 6 years since British-born chef-patron Luke Dale-Roberts opened the Test Kitchen’s doors, yet it remains near-impossible to get a reservation with tables booked up several months in advance. However, we can confirm, it’s well worth the wait. From butter-soft springbok to exquisitely-grilled kingklip, the restaurant’s five or nine-course menus represent true heaven on a plate. The Greenhouse at The Cellars-Hohenhort is another favourite, with chef Peter Templehoff serving progressive South African cuisine in a sophisticated location. Set on the Constantia slopes of Table Mountain, dining here takes place in a Victorian greenhouse with magnificent views of the hotel’s famous gardens.

ALL THINGS FINE... Set to open in 2016, the Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa (MOCAA) is a multi-million-pound project housed amid a converted grain silo within Cape Town’s V&A Waterfront. The iconic location and cultural artefacts and art from across the continent will surely be a winning combination. For a chance to purchase little pieces of Africa, we recommend a visit to the city’s Luxury Africa Atelier. This art gallery/boutique showcases exclusive works of art and products from Zambezi Grace (Nile crocodileleather goods), Patrick Mavros (animals crafted from silver), Or-gari Golden Safari (hand-crafted ceramics), Oliver Barnet (art photography) and Christopher Reid (bespoke couture jewellery).

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A N I N T E R VI E W W I TH…

1.

Do you prefer sightseeing, adventure or a lounger? Ideally, I’d like a bit of sightseeing in Asia, some adventure trekking in Brazil’s amazing rainforests and some sun lounger time in the Seychelles or Maldives please.

The exceptionally well-travelled journalist Susan d’Arcy has been sharing her expertise for many years in the Sunday Times. Her insights have guided countless holidaymakers on their journeys across the globe.

2.

Which memory of a trip makes you smile? The first time I visited Buenos Aires, I stayed at the Faena, which is an extraordinary hotel, and had a tango lesson there. The teacher then took me out to practise my new-found “skills” in San Telmo. It was a Sunday when the locals all turn out to tango in San Telmo’s square. It was amazing to witness ordinary people turn into intense, passionate dancers once they got into hold. Every time Strictly season comes around, I am transported back to Argentina and smile. 32 | SPRING 2016

Best meal you have ever had abroad?

3.

4.

I still salivate when I think of dinner at Arzak in San Sebastian. I had the most amazing meal there. Every course delighted more than the last. It was wonderfully Spanish, full of feisty flavours and beautifully presented. For healthy food, you cannot beat the Como Shambhala Cuisine. It’s gorgeous and you still somehow lose weight. It’s always good to come back from a trip without any excess baggage.

Where do you think has an unfortunate reputation that it doesn’t deserve? The Dominican Republic is definitely not as bad as it sounds. It now has some really lovely places to stay including an Aman in the north, Casa del XVi’s three hotels in Santo Domingo and Eden Roc at Cap Cana outside Punta Cana. It’s pretty good value too.

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What area of the world excites you most? I adore Asia. I don’t think anywhere can match it for exquisite architecture, wonderful food and amazing culture. The people all have such wonderful grace too.

5.

What is your ‘must travel with’ item? I always bring a few sachets of miso soup, it’s the ultimate cure for jetlag. I also bring macadamia nuts for snacking on the road.

6.

What is your most embarrassing travel faux pas? It wasn’t exactly a faux pas but in Kenya once the lodge manager insisted on dressing my husband up as a Maasai warrior. He had to take his T-shirt off, put a sarong on, go bare-chested, lots of beads etc. Then, dressed like that, we had to go off to the local village. I was in a complete panic until I realised I wasn’t required to dress up.. then I thought it was funny. It took a good few therapy sessions, but my husband is through the trauma of it all now.

34 | SPRING 2016

7.

Do you have a favourite city?

8.

Boring I know but I do heart New York. I also love Granada in Spain. The Alhambra is one of my favourite monuments, I never tire of its Moorish architecture, and I love how down and dirty and wonderfully medieval the Albaicin district is. It’s like going back in time. Add amazing food and flamenco. What’s not to like?

Have you got a ‘must see’ tip for others in your favourite city?

9.

Join a local fitness class in NYC, there are even some that are al fresco in Central Park. New Yorkers love to workout and they love it when tourists join in. They are full of advice about where to eat and what to do that is current and very “neighbourhood”.

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Tamil Nadu Occupying the south-eastern edge of the Indian subcontinent, Tamil Nadu has a rich cultural and INDIA

religious heritage. The powerful ruling dynasties of the Cholas, Pallavas and Pandyans ruled for over 1,000 years in almost complete isolation from the Mughal influences of the north. Their legacy can be seen all around in the astounding monuments and bustling temple towns which dominate the state. These temples, many with brightly painted sculptures, are the backbone of Tamil culture and are often towns in their own right.

36 | SPRING 2016

The cultural heartland of the Tamil and Dravidian cultures is the city of Madurai. The centre of this ancient city is the mighty Meenakshi Temple, a place of intense spiritual activity where up to 15,000 pilgrims gather daily. This enormous temple is dedicated to Shiva, known here as Sundareshvara, and his consort Parvati or Meenakshi. The temple’s origins go back over 2,000 years to the rule of the early Pandyas, but it was extensively added to during the 17th-century reign of the Nayaks. The 12 soaring gopuras (towers) are adorned by tens of thousands of stucco images of deities and monsters, all painted in vivid colours and rising up to 50 metres into the air. Visit in the evening to witness the ritual procession carrying the gods to rest at Meenakshi’s shrine for the night. The temple is also host to numerous festivals throughout the year including Chitirai, which lasts for nearly 2 weeks every April and celebrates the marriage of the temple’s god and goddess.

The city of Thanjavur (formerly Tanjore) was the former capital of the Chola Empire. Here they built over 70 temples including the finest of them all, the Brihadishvara Temple. Completed in the 11th century by King Rajaraja Chola I, it is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The temple tower, known as Vimana, is over 60 metres high and crowned by a massive octagonal granite block visible for miles around. Frescoes adorn the passageways and numerous inscriptions provide valuable insight into Chola society. A huge statue of the sacred bull Nandi, carved from a single block of granite weighing 25 tonnes, faces the inner sanctum.

OPPOSITE: Just one of the vivid and brilliantly painted gopuras at the Meenakshi Sundereshwara Temple. THIS PAGE: (From top) Details of the Meenakshi Sundereshwara temple. The Brihadishvara Temple.

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On the shores of the Bay of Bengal south of Chennai lies the small seaside town of Mamallapuram (Mahabalipuram). Once a major port city and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is famed for its stone carvings, a tradition which still continues in the area to this day. Built by the Pallavas in the early 8th century, the spectacular Shore Temple is the best known monument and overlooks the sea with shrines dedicated to Vishnu and Shiva. Another highlight is the Panch Ratha, a group of ornate monolithic shrines carved from single stones, which include animal statues of elephant and lion. Easy to explore by foot, the town has a wealth of history to explore as well as delicious fish curries to sample.

Airavateshvara Temple The spectacular Airavateshvara Temple at Darasuram is a little way off the main tourist circuit, but well worth visiting. Built by the Cholas in the 12th century, the four tiered temple has fine friezes and numerous intricate stone carvings depicting religious scenes. A traditional silk weaver’s village is located nearby, where old pit looms are used to weave saris and colourful threads are dyed in the streets.

38 | SPRING 2016

THIS PAGE: (Main) The intricate carvings at Panch Ratha showing the lion and elephant. (Left) Colourful visitors to the Airavteshvara Temple. (Above) A traditional weaver. OPPOSITE: (Left block) Streets and the beach at Pondicherry (Right block) Chettinad mansions.

Tamil Nadu isn’t just about the temples, here are some other unmissable sights: STAY:

Our favourite places to stay here include the colonial style boutique hotel Palais de Mahe in Puducherry’s French Quarter, the lovingly restored Chettinad mansion hotel Visalam, and the Heritage Madurai – an oasis in the busy city which was formerly the British Madurai Club.

COMBINE WITH:

The untouched and exotic Andaman Islands can be reached by air and boat from Chennai or the Backwaters and beaches of Kerala are just across the border.

BEST TIME TO GO:

The best temperatures and least rainfall tends to be from December-March after which humidity levels begin to rise and conditions can become stifling.

FLIGHTS:

Puducherry (Pondicherry)

Chettinad

A world apart from the rest of Tamil Nadu, this former French colony has retained a Gallic flavour as French is still spoken widely and streets have retained their colonial names. The slower pace of life makes it a tranquil place to relax for a few days among the colourful colonial mansions and tree lined boulevards of the French Quarter. There are some excellent boutique hotels and the spiritually inclined can pay a visit to the famed Sri Aurobindo Ashram or nearby international commune of Auroville.

Made up of 75 villages, the rural Chettinad region is the ancestral home of the Chettiars, Tamil Nadu’s merchant and banking community. Most have now moved on, but the elaborate and ornate mansions and palaces which they built remain as testaments to their wealth.

British Airways fly direct from Heathrow to the state capital Chennai (formerly Madras), the region’s commercial hub. Connections from within India and via the Middle East are also plentiful.

Characterised by internal courtyards, marble floors and Burmese teak, many of these are now crumbling into disrepair although some have been converted into superb hotels. The area also boasts fantastic antiques and local crafts and is renowned for its unique and spicy cuisine. 39

Daios Cove CRETE

Situated in a private and secluded bay on the island of Crete, Daios Cove is perfect for those seeking serenity. A range rooms, suites and villas, all overlooking the infinite crystal waters of the sea and most with their own private salt water pool, incorporate glass and local stone to complement the surrounding natural environment. Superb local specialities as well as fine dining can be found in the three restaurants while the chic Crystal Box bar has exceptional views of the cove and is the perfect spot to enjoy an evening cocktail or two. There is a salt water infinity pool, a separate children’s pool, tennis courts, a spa and a magnificent sandy beach on which to relax as well as plenty of activities from cookery lessons to catamaran cruises. With its spectacular setting, modern and elegant style plus the very best in personal service, Daios Cove is a firm favourite for both families and couples.

Stay 7 nights from £885 per person, B&B including flights & transfers EXCLUSIVE OFFER:

Up to €200 resort credit per stay for bookings made by 31 March 2016.

40 | SPRING 2016

Garden & Villas Resort ISCHIA, ITALY

Set among extensive subtropical gardens, Garden & Villas Resort is a tranquil oasis allowing for complete relaxation. Its bright, spacious rooms are found within nine whitewashed villas, each scattered among colourful, fragrant flowers and lemon trees. Combine idyllic sea or garden views from your terrace with an expertly-mixed cocktail as the sun sets over the Gulf of Naples. Spend days relaxing beside a huge and inviting outdoor pool, enjoying warm and attentive service as the feeling of quiet and space engulfs you, and evenings sampling regional cuisine – made using only the freshest ingredients – at the resort’s Il Corbezzolo restaurant, a fish-lover’s paradise. Overlooking San Montano Bay and just a short amble from the island’s picturesque waterfront town of Lacco Ameno, Garden & Villas Resort is also perfectly located for explorations of Ischia’s many beautiful beaches and thermal springs.

Stay 7 nights from £695 per person, B&B including flights & transfers EXCLUSIVE OFFER:

Free upgrade from Classic to Superior Room. Book by 15 April 2016 (subject to availability).

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S PA I N

Recently, Katy and Catherine from Real Holidays visited Andalucía. They share their journey with us here, and some tips for the perfect Spanish holiday experience.

Catherine Katy

42 | SPRING 2016

OPPOSITE: View over Albaicin, Granada. THIS PAGE: (left) View of Capileira; (right) Charles the 5th, Alhambra; (below) Chocolate at Pampaneira.

et in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada mountains, Granada boasts one of the most dramatic locations in Spain. The city’s biggest attraction is the Alhambra, a sprawling fortress with royal palaces adorned with the most intricate of mosaics. That same grandeur spills out into the Palacio de Generalife’s immaculatelymaintained gardens, providing a magnificent outlook over the city and distant, snow-capped mountains. It’s not hard to see why Nazrid rulers of the 13th and 14th centuries chose this as the perfect vantage point. Not all of Granada’s charm is so large-scale, however. To visit the city and not get lost in the small, cobbled and mazy streets of the Albaicin, the city’s old quarter, would be a travesty. This area is steeped in character and history from its Moorish past. Quaint tapas bars abound, with jamon Serrano from the surrounding mountains featuring heavily on menus alongside delicious local wines. Granada is one of the few Spanish places where it remains customary to receive complimentary tapas when you order a drink. A nice touch, we think… The following day sees us take a day-trip in the Alpujarra – charming valleys set beneath the Sierra Nevada mountains – to visit the Poqueira Valley’s three villages. The drive takes around one and a half hours from Granada as we wind up the road through dramatic countryside. Our route takes us through Lanjarón, a town whose thermal spas are famed for their healing properties. Lanjarón is justly proud of its water, which is bottled and sold around the region, explaining why, every year at the stroke of midnight on 23 June, the entire place commences a huge water fight – involving firemen’s hoses, water balloons, water pistols and people emptying buckets from balconies. The fun lasts for a full hour, before a hosepipe ban is belatedly reinstated.

When we reach Pampaneira, the first village, it becomes wholly clear that these towns’ spirit and traditions haven’t been affected by the advances of tourism. It’s not just the giddy scenery which makes them so alluring; there are also plenty of artisan crafts and exalted local produce to enjoy. Shops in the main square sell brightly-coloured jarapas (traditional carpets) made using recycled textile scraps, while a nearby chocolate factory’s endless flavours include black pepper, cinnamon, cheese and honey. Best of all, you can sample each and every variety before buying a block at a very reasonable price – or just stop and watch production through windows. We also pause at a boutique selling scarves and blankets which have been hand-woven on the owner’s antique loom. The walk from Bubión up to Capileira makes the Alpujarra’s beauty even more apparent, and explains why it is renowned for hiking. Admiring the views up to Mulhacén (Spain’s highest peak), we pass through fields filled with chestnut and walnut trees, wild flowers and berry bushes. On a clear day, you can see down to the Mediterranean; from May to September, the top of Mulhacén offers views across to Africa. Having worked up an appetite by the time we reached Capileira, we stop in at a local bodega and tapas bar. The owner has an allotment, growing all his own produce and making the wine he serves. We taste some of the amazing regional food, such as olive oil, honey, red peppers and more Serrano ham. A traditional (and very tasty!) dish is Melagas Alpujarreñas: fried polenta, chorizo, green peppers, Serrano ham and a melon slice. With such close proximity to Granada, these villages are easily accessible for a day-trip; but to really immerse yourself and enjoy them to the full, head from Granada to the Alpujarra and walk countryside trails as your luggage is sent on ahead. You can then head down through the mountains to finish your trip on the stunning coastline at Cabo de Gata.

On a clear day, you can see down to the Mediterranean; from May to September, the top of Mulhacén offers views across to Africa.

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VILLA HOLIDAYS – JUST A WALK AWAY EUROPE

Going on a villa holiday is all about freedom and flexibility, and finding one just a walk away from the nearest town brings particular benefits. You can leave the car behind as you shop for local groceries, take an evening stroll into the centre for dinner, and offer a degree of independence to your older children and teenagers. Here are a few villa options which are just a walk away…

1

CASA ANNIE, MALLORCA, SPAIN Bedrooms: 7, Sleeps: 14, Private Pool, Jacuzzi

2

LA MORA, SICILY, ITALY Bedrooms: 4, Sleeps: 7, Private Pool

This impressive private-gated villa is located close to the shops and restaurants of authentic village Campanet. It is also within easy reach of Port de Pollença and Port d’Alcudia’s beautiful northern beaches. Built in a grand colonial style, the villa’s stunning outdoor spaces are accessed by a spectacular staircase which sweeps down from the top terrace to a magnificent pool, where sunlight dazzles azure waters. Poolside dining and pre-dinner aperitifs can be enjoyed of an evening, prepared in the summer kitchen and fully-equipped bar. Located on a quiet country lane

La Mora is a traditional, comfortable farmhouse immersed in the Madonie Nature Reserve’s beautiful countryside, just south of the beach at Cefalu on Sicily’s northern coast. The views from all points are stunning, and especially from the panoramic pool. Secluded and with award-winning local service, La Mora feels wonderfully private and yet is just a few minutes’ walk down a country road from the nearby village of Collesano. On two sides of the house are large panoramic terraces, one particularly suited for alfresco dining, while a lovely grassy

and sleeping up to 14 people, this Mallorcan villa is a fantastic family option.

knoll and shady oak tree provide the perfect sunset-watching spot.

From £5,795 (low season) - £8,900 (high season) per week, villa only.

From £2,115 (low season) - £2,810 (high season) per week, villa only.

44 | SPRING 2016

3. 4. 1.

3

2.

AL OLIVAR, MEGANISSI, GREECE Bedrooms: 4, Sleeps: 8, Private Pool, Private Jetty

4

VILLA AURELIA, KALKAN, TURKEY Bedrooms: 3, Sleeps: 6-8, Private Pool

Located on the wonderfully unspoilt island of Meganissi, Al Olivar has a privileged seafront location with direct private-bathing access to the clear Ionian Sea. Head for the private jetty and explore the island’s waters either by kayak or the villa’s own Topper sailboat. Enclosed by traditional Greek stone walls, Al Olivar offers total privacy and superb views from a fully-furnished alfresco living and dining area, which overlooks the pool, gardens and bay down below. With the harbour tavernas of nearby Vathi easily accessible either by foot or boat, Al

Villa Aurelia’s incredible position means breathtaking views are visible from virtually everywhere in the house, as well as from its huge infinity pool. There is generous space both inside and out, with steps from the garden leading down to a decked, sunbed-furnished platform providing direct sea access. The house’s interior is very comfortable thanks to rich dark woods, and features two magnificent master bedrooms which both afford access to a vast upper terrace. The closest supermarket is within easy walking distance, and the restaurants and bars of nearby

Olivar offers everything you could desire from a villa holiday in Greece, plus award-winning local service.

Kalkan are accessible either via a stroll or the regular water-taxi service.

From £2,535 (low season) - £6,215 (high season) per week, villa only.

From £1,995 (low season) - £3,495 (high season) per week, villa only.

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The thought of escaping to foreign lands and distant shores has one drawback: jet lag. To use the medical term, desynchronosis is mainly caused by the time difference of a flight – its direction rather than its length. For example, an 11 hour flight to South Africa only has a 2 hour time difference, yet a 12 hour flight to Thailand has a 7 hour difference. Over the years we have picked up tips to help alleviate the effects of jet lag, and help your body clock adjust more speedily.

BEFORE YOU TRAVEL

DURING YOUR FLIGHT

ON ARRIVAL

Change your sleep routine a few days before travel. If you’re flying west, go to bed later; if you’re flying east, go earlier.

Upon boarding, set your watch to the local time at your destination and ‘cheat’ your circadian rhythm by eating and sleeping at local times.

Spend as much time as you can outdoors so both mind and body synchronise.

Where possible, plan your flight so you arrive in daylight as this will make you feel more able to stay awake and adjust to your new schedule. Take a wander around the terminal to keep your circulation flowing but avoid being tempted by the food outlets and having a heavy meal.

46 | SPRING 2016

Dehydration makes jet lag worse so drink plenty of water. Avoid alcohol and caffeine, which can dehydrate you. Wear an eye mask and use ear plugs to help convince your body that it’s time for sleep.

Start eating three meals a day in line with your new time zone, even if that means breakfast at 11pm GMT. Take a bath before bedtime to relax, raise your body temperature and induce sleep.



ECUADOR

THE ENCHANTED GALAPAGOS ISLANDS The Galapagos Islands are without question one of the world’s most remarkable natural wildlife reserves and one of the few regions anywhere to rival Africa for the sheer quantity of birds, animals and marine fauna. The difference here is that there were no indigenous people in these volcanic creations, so the stunning wildlife has no natural fear of man. Don’t come here for people-watching, the 'locals' are the wildlife and they generally carry on their day, regardless of the occasional visitor.

A week’s cruise through the islands allows you to seemingly travel back in time to the days of Darwin and von Humboldt. Leaving the 3 populated islands behind allows true exploration of the rest of the 40 or so isles inhabited only by colourful and unique birds and animals. Take to the sea to encounter sea lion, turtle and ray or the world’s northernmost penguin.

It’s feasible to visit the islands from various land-based lodges but undoubtedly it is best to take a cruise to see them at their best. In this way the archipelago offers ever-changing environments from white sandy beaches to barren lava fields, alongside the ever-varying wildlife in a natural sanctuary where fearless, surprisingly surreal creatures roam free.

Snorkelling also provides close but safe encounters with hammerhead and white-tipped reef shark among others.

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A SELECTION OF

GALAPAGOS YACHTS G A L A PA G O S

Whether you’re thinking of an individual cabin or a full private charter the Galapagos has some excellent vessels. Here are just three options in the three different size categories.

1.

M/Y GRACE

18 guests

There is no more comfortable and traditional classic motor-yacht than M/Y Grace. With a rich and fabled history, this classic luxury motor yacht was completed in 1928 in Southampton by Camper and Nicholson. Today she is named to reflect one of the grandest periods in her history, when 60 years ago this year Grace Kelly had just become Princess Grace of Monaco and spent her honeymoon on-board with Prince Rainier. M/Y Grace is easily the most glamorous yacht in her class in the islands, with 9 spacious double and twin cabins accommodating up to 18 guests. Inside and outside dining areas, a bar-salon, sun deck, library and Jacuzzi ensure she is one of the best equipped small yachts to take you to some of the most beautiful spots on earth while the excellent guides and crew will ensure you enjoy every detail of your visit. A 7 night cruise costs from £5,575 per person, full board including all flights, island transfers and tours. A similar private charter costs from £73,150 for a week for up to 18 guests. This rate excludes flights. 48 | SPRING 2016

SOME TIPS FOR THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS 0º A  lthough visits of 4 or 5 days are possible, be prepared to stay for a full week to savour this precious environment. 0º S  imilarly, most islands have their very own set of species. The longer your stay on a ship, the more islands you see and the more species you can include in your experience. 0º B  ook as far ahead as possible to secure the best yachts. National park authorities strictly limit the number of vessels available so ideally book 6 months to a year or so ahead and up to 2 years for Christmas.

2.

3.

M/V ECLIPSE

48 guests

Eclipse is an upscale expedition vessel that offers excellent levels of comfort and service, large enough to travel the Pacific in comfort and safety but small enough to dock at remote ports and negotiate inter-island landings with agility. Eclipse is also the perfect size for an expedition-style adventure for those who prefer the intimate, comfortable atmosphere and attentive service of a smaller boutique vessel to a larger cruise ship. She features outstanding open-air spaces, comfortable cabins, and spectacular alfresco dining.

M/V SANTA CRUZ II

90 guests

Conceived for operations in remote areas, this state-of-the-art expedition vessel provides the perfect facilities for Galapagos exploration. Carrying its crew’s heritage of decades of experience working in the islands and just over 70 metres long, this spacious five-deck craft offers 50 cabins for 90 guests. It also features ample, generous-sized social areas indoors and out that allow you to make the most of your Galapagos cruise experience.

The 26 spacious staterooms accommodate up to 48 passengers – just half the number usually found on a ship this size. This means that passengers can enjoy the generous accommodation of a larger vessel.

Santa Cruz II’s Swedish-designed cabins reflect the latest in cruise trends. Comfortable spaces and large picture windows illuminate the interior spaces and allow guests to take in the views, offering elegant relaxation areas after a day of active exploring. Of the 50 cabins, 36 can be interconnected, offering flexibility for guests from single travellers to families.

A 7 night cruise costs from £5,645 per person, full board including all flights, island transfers and tours.

A 5 night cruise costs from £4,325 per person, full board including all flights, island transfers and tours.

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GALAPAGOS G A L A PA G O S

MONTH BY MONTH

Do you know what’s going on during each month of the year in the Galapagos Islands?

JANUARY

FEBRUARY

MARCH

• This is a great time to visit as land birds start nesting although it can be a little wetter.

• On Floreana Island, greater flamingo start nesting.

• The rainy season reaches its height with sporadic tropical showers.

• On Española (Hood) Island, marine iguana show their colours of green, red and black.

• Marine iguana arrive on Santa Cruz Island to nest.

• Marine iguana nest on Fernandina Island.

• The highest water temperature reaches 25 ºC and swimming and snorkelling are a delight.

• The waved albatross arrives on Española Island.

APRIL

MAY

JUNE

• Waved albatross begin their amazing courtship.

• North Seymour Island’s blue-footed booby begin their courtship.

• Giant tortoise migrate from the highlands to the lowlands of Santa Cruz Island.

• Sea turtle and marine iguana hatch.

• Male frigatebird inflate their red pouches for the breeding season.

• Green sea turtle arrive on beaches to lay their eggs.

• End of the giant tortoise, green sea turtle and land iguana hatching season. • Good visibility for snorkelling, warm and getting drier.

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• Waved albatross start to lay their eggs.

• Southern migrants including humpback whale start their journey north.

JULY

AUGUST

SEPTEMBER

• See American Oystercatcher nesting along the shores of Santiago Island’s Puerto Egas.

• Despite cooler waters snorkelling allows penguin to be seen alongside tropical fish.

• The barking of sea lion can be heard across the western and central islands.

• Blue-footed booby and flightless cormorant perform courtship rituals.

• Migrant shorebirds start to arrive, staying on the islands until March.

• Penguin are more and more active both underwater and at the shore’s edge.

• Cetaceans are more likely to be observed, especially off the western coast of Isabela Island.

• Giant tortoise return to the highlands of Santa Cruz Island.

• Most seabirds are active at their nesting sites.

OCTOBER

NOVEMBER

DECEMBER

• Lava heron start nesting until March.

• Pupping of sea lion continue.

• Blue-footed booby raise chicks all over Española Island and on Isabela.

• Sea lion are mating in the eastern isles.

• Hatching of giant tortoise eggs begins, lasting until April.

• The seas are calm and there is generally great weather.

• The rainy season begins, and all of the plants resprout making the islands green again.

• Sunrises in the west can be beautiful as the garúa (wind and cloud) covers only parts of the western volcanoes.

• The first young of the waved albatross start fledging.

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Buri Rasa Village KOH PHANGAN, THAILAND

Buri Rasa Village is hidden amid swaying palm trees on a secluded white-sand beach boasting clear, turquoise waters. Compact and low-key, this is a boutique resort containing all the ingredients for a relaxing beach holiday. Step straight onto the sands from your beachfront room and eat delicious Thai specialities or fresh seafood barbecues under the stars as the sea laps gently in the background. After exploring the many excellent snorkelling and dive sites or hiking through lush rainforest to find beautiful waterfalls in the island’s interior, enjoy a relaxing treatment at the hotel’s beachside Nam Thai Herbal Spa. There’s also a wide choice of local restaurants and some quiet bars in the nearby village, where you will quickly come to feel at home. Experience stunning natural beauty and friendly, personalised service at this superb-value Thai beach retreat.

Stay 7 nights from £1,095 per person B&B, including flights & transfers. EXCLUSIVE OFFER:

Stay 5 nights & get an extra night & free return speedboat transfer until 31 July 2016. Book by 30 April 2016.

52 | SPRING 2016

Palais Namaskar MARRAKECH, MOROCCO

Part of the prestigious Oetker Collection, Palais Namaskar offers a glamorous abode in Marrakech. Five-star service is guaranteed amid palatial accommodation epitomising luxury and sophistication. Designed on a grand scale, with the Atlas Mountains as a backdrop, Palais Namaskar’s privileged location in the Palmeraie oasis means it’s just a 20-minute drive from the Medina’s labyrinth-like souks. Most of the rooms, suites, villas and palaces have their own pool, around which one can laze after feasting on some of Marrakech’s finest gourmet cuisine – and food is taken very seriously at Palais Namaskar, with menus using 100 % organic produce gathered from its own plantation. Later, opt for some peace and quiet at Le Spa Namaskar, an award-winning spa, before heading to the lovely No Mad bar for a cocktail accompanied by some spectacular views. Palais Namaskar is a beautiful, serene retreat, and the ideal Moroccan hideaway. Stay 3 nights from £695 per person, B&B including flights & transfers. EXCLUSIVE OFFER:

VIP extras include a free upgrade on arrival (subject to availability) & a €75 spa voucher and €75 restaurant voucher, per stay.

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Image courtesy of Jaisal Singh

INDIA

Tiger, Tiger

54 | SPRING 2016

arah from Bailey Robinson goes in search of tiger in Rajasthan… As a child, I was mesmerised by the majestic and ethereal Shere Khan in Rudyard Kipling’s The Jungle Book. Therefore, an invitation to stay at Sher Bagh – one of India’s first and, to this day, finest luxury tented camps, inspired by the 1920s and located beside the world-renowned Ranthambhore National Park – presented an opportunity for tiger, until now confined to the pages of a book and wildlife programmes, to become my reality. All of which explains why 16:37 in the afternoon of 1 October 2015, during the day’s second drive, was a spine-tingling moment. A sensory overload, in fact, palpable by the hairs standing up on the back of my neck, the many goosebumps in evidence and my overwhelming well of tears in recognition of the resplendent creature laying nonchalantly before our Jeep. It was a humbling and emotional encounter, one which has now become a memory of mine for eternity. We were even fortunate to stalk, and witness at close quarters, another tiger that same afternoon. Each was so grandiose; so splendidly regal in its natural surroundings. For me the tiger is the true king of the jungle and I urge everyone to seek out the experience for themselves of setting eyes on one in the wild.

Ranthambhore National Park

Delhi

INDIA

55

JAMAICA

‘Jamaica’s best kept secret’ 56 | SPRING 2016

GoldenEye Resort would not exist without Ian Fleming. He bought a plot of land in 1946, built the villa and named it after a naval operation in which he’d been involved. It was at his holiday home that his first-ever James Bond novel, Casino Royale, was written in just 2 months and then, covering 13 subsequent stories, one 007 thriller per year. The island paradise also served him well for inspiration. The inaugural Bond girl, Casino Royale’s Vesper Lynd, was named after a local Jamaican cocktail – a mix of frozen rum, fruit and herbs, while two of his other famous heroines, Solitaire from Live and Let Die and Thunderball’s Domino, are named after rare Jamaican birds. Fleming’s many visitors at GoldenEye included Truman Capote, Cecil Beaton and Sir Noel Coward, whose nearby house was called Firefly, and still remains to this day.

Try the Blackwell Rum and the GoldenEye cocktail, both fantastic Chris Blackwell, of Island Records fame, purchased GoldenEye Resort from the Fleming estate in 1976. Since then he has grown the original 7-hectare site, solely featuring Fleming’s villa, into a world-class, 21-hectare resort that serves as the flagship of his Island Outpost properties. It is, hands down, one of Jamaica’s hippest and most luxurious hotels, with its Caribbean-chic cottages and villas overlooking a private white-sand beach and ethereal blue lagoon, and the additional presence of two restaurants, two pools, a treehouse spa and extensive activity offerings. The resort effortlessly maintains GoldenEye’s glamorous heritage and, although an air of exclusivity pervades, it does so without pretension thereby drawing in celebrities and mere mortals alike. The

predominantly local staff are loyal and infectiously passionate about GoldenEye Resort and Jamaica as a whole. Fleming’s original gardener, Ramsey, although retired, still lives on the property. For something a little quirky, opt for a Lagoon Cottage. Each has its own private dock over the lagoon and comes with a brightly-coloured kayak tied up and waiting for you. The cottages are built into lush natural landscapes, with direct access to the lagoon from your veranda, and Low Cay Beach just steps away.

Fleming Villa The Fleming Villa is like an island in itself and, if you are looking for privacy, works perfectly with its satellite cottages, pool house and fantastic location. The property also boasts its own beach, pool, gardens and staff. Wander over to the main resort for a spa treatment, sunset cocktails at the Bizot Bar or dinner at the Gazebo Restaurant. Of course, there’s also the history of Fleming and his classic character, Bond – James Bond. If these walls could talk they’d tell tales of artists and writers, spies and seducers. The romantic atmosphere is palpable. Stay 7 nights from £2,730 (low season) & £3,600 (high season) per person, B&B including international flights and transfers

THE GOLDENEYE COCKTAIL • Start with a lowball glass and ice • Pour one ounce of Blackwell Rum over the ice • Add in four ounces of pineapple juice • A squeeze of lime • Top the drink with another ounce of Blackwell Rum • Use an orange or pineapple wedge for a garnish

Exclusive

Receive a com plimentary bottle of Blac kwell Black Gold Fine Ja maican Rum with every bo oking made to GoldenEye!

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ADVENTURE

Bailey Robinson client, Tim Eliot-Cohen, took his family on a month-long adventure around the States Europe vs. USA: Summer might seem months away but now is the time we all start planning where to go and what to do. Let’s be honest, Europe is on our doorstep, the sun will shine, the food can be great, and the numerous villas make it an easy option. However, might I suggest you consider the States; we did and what followed was unanimously voted the favourite family holiday of all time.

58 | SPRING 2016

America is BIG! Our 3 ½ week tour started in California and from San Diego we worked our way up ‘Route 1’ to San Francisco before heading to Yosemite, the Grand Canyon region and finally, Vegas. This tour is nothing novel but I now know why relatively few Americans bother to get a passport. I had always assumed this was perhaps apathy or a lack of cultural curiosity. Not so! They have the biggest and most diverse adventure playground on their own, very large, doorstep.

Coastal California: There is a reason why 40 million people live in this state and it’s not just the near 300 days of sensible summer temperatures. The coastline is indescribably beautiful with mountains aggressively giving way to the sea. That sets the scene but now to the action… SeaWorld and Universal Studios: ‘Really?’ I can hear you thinking. Just do it! The Orcas and dolphins shouldn’t be in captivity but my word they are majestic creatures and can put on the most breath taking show. Yes, we felt conflicted but

Free Willy is on repeat and the children have engaged in the quandary of our times exploitation vs education and conservation. It certainly put the ‘are we there yet’ conversation on the back burner. Universal Studios’ Waterworld show is sensational with fights, guns, bullets, crashing planes, explosions and pyrotechnics galore. If you are 7 years old or 47, this is jaw-dropping stuff. Los Angeles and Hollywood: A day is plenty and while I felt like ‘Timmy Tourist’, the children loved the whole Hollywood thing…but it was time to move on. Carmel: Carmel was my favourite town by a stretch and Bernadus Lodge is arguably my favourite hotel ever. Home of Pebble Beach Golf Club, famous for having ‘Our Lord’ Clint Eastwood as its former Mayor and the destination of

choice for ‘Old Money’ San Francisco. This clapper-board town is adorned by mountains, fronted by a white sand bay, and is a retail heaven with a mass of restaurants. There is enough to keep you busy for weeks. San Francisco: Of all the great film car chases, most of them have a Dodge convertible or a ‘Ponty’ flying over San Francisco’s steep hills. We had rented a GMC (SUV) which can hide two parents, three children, five large suitcases, five small suitcases and an Esky, and still have room for a pool and an indoor water-ski park. Taking this over the San Francisco lips was initially daunting but as bravado reached fever pitch, it became a sport! It is a stunning city with some great restaurants and a vibrant and buzzing gay scene and while we ran out of time to see the inside of Alcatraz, the bike ride across Golden Gate Bridge proved a top excursion.

Yosemite: At this stage our party expanded with the arrival of my Mother, Sister and Mother in-Law. Team E-C were virtually natives by this stage of the tour and the olds needed to catch up. The sight of Granny and sister Sarah heading towards Yosemite in a Mustang convertible was quite something, but more so due to Neil Diamond blaring from the speakers while sunglasses and headscarves completed the ‘Thelma and Louise’ moment. Yosemite National Park is spectacularly beautiful and there seemed to be an adventure to be had around every corner. Lakes, jet skis, boating, gold panning and mountain yomps to name a few, but in truth these paled into insignificance compared to the dramatic scenery inside the park and I will let the photographs speak those 1,000 words.

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The RED Country: If there was one highlight that I would recommend it would be hiring a house boat on Lake Powell. Only America, in its infinite wisdom, would consider damming the Colorado River in the middle of a desert. That said, they have created a huge and wonderful 290 kilometre lake from which bizarre and very red geological structures almost erupt from the water. This became our playground for five glorious days. We were given about 7 minutes of training on our 18 metre house boat. Undaunted, I took to the helm and we embarked on calm waters under blue skies. The Gods however, were looking down with mischief. ‘What fun! That looks like Captain Cohen whose previous boating knowledge is a surfboard in Cornwall! Let’s test him with a rare Lake Powell storm!’ 60 | MAGAZINE TITLE

To my amazement we did not sink our boat or indeed break anything and in fact, it was an exciting adventure for all of us. Really! The evenings were spent onshore and we had to beach and secure the boat by four strategic anchors. I confess that I am not a direct descendent from Admiral Nelson so

The sunsets are out of this world, red skies bouncing off red rocks silhouetted on mirror still lakes. had not factored in the wind direction on our first failed attempt. The solution? Everyone out of the boat, neck deep in water, leaning back in what was in effect a massive game of tug-of-war,... with Granny as the ‘anchor’! Had that been captured on film, it would have gone viral.

Adventure aside, this is an idyllic watery wilderness. We spent the days cruising with a water-ski boat at our disposal, a couple of double kayaks for exploring the narrow canyons, and fishing rods to complete the Bear Grylls’ fantasy. Hours of simple fun were had off the boat’s slide and making GoPro movies of jumping off the top deck into mirror clear, fresh water. The evenings will be permanently etched on our memories. The sunsets are out of this world, red skies bouncing off red rocks silhouetted on mirror still lakes. A glass of wine in hand, the waft of the barbecue cooking, and educational games of Black Jack in preparation for Vegas were all something that you must do. Every night we camped outside on the top deck trying to work out why there were no mosquitoes and why every constellation looked like the Plough.

The Grand Canyon: There is no point trying to describe it, nor really photograph it for that matter, but it is awesome and you have to see it. We did the Heli tour and a sunset tour, both of which I would fully endorse. Las Vegas: If I am honest, I didn’t get it. Perhaps I am so English I can’t understand the concept of an entire city having one sole purpose of ‘HAVING FUN!!!’. It is all bonkers - big, brash and rather amazing. We saw a Cirque de Soleil show and David Copperfield’s magic show. The latter should be on everyone’s wish list. The buildings are amazing, the photo shoots spectacular but maybe this is a place to go without your children, or Granny for that matter!

SO, EUROPE OR AMERICA? If your children dial forward 25 years they will have enjoyed all of their European summer trips but I would argue mine will truly remember our American Adventure. We barely scratched the surface but I strongly recommend that you head west and if it proves not to be your children’s ultimate holiday, then they must be very fortunate!

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Image courtesy of Beatrice Kalrsson, Paulina Holmgren, Anja Kilian, Sebastian Andreas Scheller, Wolfgang-A. Lüchow

THE LONG AND SHO RT OF I T

62 | SPRING 2016

After months of planning and preparing for your wedding, there’s also the allimportant honeymoon to consider. The choices are seemingly endless – do you go for lazing on a tropical island in the sun or a romantic break closer to home? Here are just a few ideas, near and far…

1

ICEHOTEL, SWEDEN (5 hours flight)

If you are having a winter wedding and want to continue the theme, then the world’s largest hotel made completely of snow and ice makes for one of the most spectacular places in which to spend a night. Enjoy thrilling couples’ activities such as husky-sledding and snowmobiling through the wilderness before enjoying a warming vodka in the Icebar. Nightfall brings the possibility of a romantic evening viewing of that most spectacular natural phenomenon: the Northern Lights. Later, cuddle up on your icy bed below thermal sleeping bags in one of the hand-sculpted, individually designed Art Suites.

2

GRACE MYKONOS, GREECE (3.5 hours flight)

With its sun-kissed beaches, cosmopolitan lifestyle and picturesque villages, Mykonos is a honeymoon destination that, once experienced, cannot be forgotten. The innovative Grace Mykonos defines this happening island and makes for the perfect honeymoon. This 32 room rare gem overlooks Agios Stefanos Beach and is just a 5 minute walk from Mykonos Town. Opt to stay in the secluded Honeymoon Suite, irresistibly romantic with its own private terrace, plunge pool and cosy portico. Giant sunbeds encourage lazy days around the main pool and the boutique spa offers a range of blissful treatments. The Champagne breakfast each morning is the icing on the cake.

3

PARIS & VENICE BY TRAIN (2.5 hours train journey)

Combine the boulevards, boutiques and brasseries of Paris with the waterways and grand art galleries of Venice on a honeymoon to two of the world’s most romantic cities. Enjoy a Champagne breakfast on a Eurostar train before an afternoon stroll along the Seine and an evening spent in one of Montmartre’s many candlelit bistros. Then climb aboard the elegant and luxurious Venice Simplon-Orient-Express for an overnight train journey through the Alps to Venice’s fabled canals. Explore the beautiful palazzos and hidden alleyways away from the crowds of St Mark’s Square before a romantic gondola ride, with the sunset over the lagoon providing an exceptional backdrop.

4

CULTURE & ADVENTURE IN JAVA & LOMBOK, INDONESIA (16 hours flight)

The islands of Java and Lombok make the perfect combination for newlyweds seeking adventure, with their ancient temples, stunning natural landscapes and pristine beaches. On Java, explore the world’s largest Buddhist temple complex at Borobudur before journeying through coffee plantations to the Dutch colonial city of Malang. Take a Jeep tour for an unforgettable sunrise over the still-active Mount Bromo volcano before flying across to the unspoilt beaches of Lombok for some well-earned downtime.

5

JADE MOUNTAIN, ST LUCIA (9 hours flight)

The very essence of Jade Mountain is the celebration of life and love. Expect grand, sweeping spaces, with your bedroom, living area and private infinity pool gliding into one another forming a platform floating in space with the fourth wall missing entirely. The result is a setting from which to embrace the glory of St. Lucia’s UNESCO-listed Pitons mountains and the infinite Caribbean Sea. Honeymooners receive a bottle of Champagne and culinary amenity, plus a complimentary upgrade during a return visit. St. Lucia itself is extremely romantic and has just been voted ‘Leading Honeymoon Destination’ for the ninth time at the World Travel Awards. 63

MOROCCO

AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO

It’s hard to believe that just a 3 ½ hour flight from the UK is all it takes to reach such a vibrant and exotic land; a place where rose-coloured buildings and ancient, labyrinthine souks contrast with the snowcapped Atlas Mountains.

Djemaa El-Fna A UNESCO World Heritage Site where storytellers mingle with snake-charmers, and acrobats and belly dancers provide entertainment amid smoke from food carriages.

64 | SPRING 2016

Koutoubia Mosque Closed to non-Muslims, but still worth a visit for the humbling experience of simply standing outside and hearing the call-to-prayer.

Spa Hammams Pampering is something Morocco does well. Choose to undertake a traditional hammam if you dare, or opt for gentler relaxation at a spa hammam.

Jardin Majorelle Formerly owned by Yves Saint Laurent, these gardens are full of curious plants and birdlife and house a museum of Berber culture.

Souks The Medina is like a treasure trove stacked with spices, lanterns and leather. Meander through its winding alleyways in search of bargains, intoxicated by textures and colours. Image courtesy of Viault

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Shop

Eat

Bar Churchill, the piano bar at La Mamounia, is one of Marrakech’s most atmospheric drinking spots. Its Art Deco style of red velvet sofas and leather-studded walls set a decadent tone for jazzy evenings. Alternatively, head to the Garden Party at Palais Namaskar on Sundays.

Aside from the Medina, which is a great place to pick up the traditional crafts of Morocco from rugs to Berber jewellery, trendy Gueliz is full of fashionable boutiques with set prices. 33 Rue Majorelle is Marrakech’s most fashion-forward concept store. It is bursting with clothes, footwear, homeware and jewellery from over 60 of Morocco’s most talented designers. Aya’s is where you can find locally-made clothing, all beautifully tailored and stitched by hand. Nawal, the owner, has an eye for detail and you can order custom-made kaftans and dresses.

While most properties have their own lovely restaurants, there is nothing more intoxicating than sitting within the Red City’s walls at nightfall. Le Restaurant at La Maison Arabe Open to the public since the 1940s, this was the Medina’s first restaurant. Specialising in truly delicious Moroccan food, it was also a gastronomic meeting place for the likes of Sir Winston Churchill and Charles de Gaulle. Go à la carte or try your hand at one of their fantastic cookery classes.

COMBINE MARRAKECH WITH… THE ATLAS MOUNTAINS Friendly and hospitable, the indigenous Berber people inhabit this area. Take a privately-guided hike out to the villages or trek across the Ourika Valley. Rural village markets take place on certain days, and you can combine these with a lunch in the mountains before returning to Marrakech in time for dinner. Alternatively, spoil yourself with a stay at Sir Richard Branson’s lovely Kasbah Tamadot, an ancient fort turned elegant hideaway.

66 | SPRING 2016

Drink

Stay VILLA DES ORANGERS Palatial without being pretentious, Villa des Orangers offers all the picturesque charm of a riad setting but with 5-star boutique hotel service and comfort. This blossomscented oasis is just a few minutes’ walk from the hustle of Djemaa El-Fna Square, within the old Medina walls. From £785pp for 3 nights B&B & lunch, including international flights and transfers.

VILLA EZZAHRA This beautiful, contemporary Moroccan villa is located in the Palmeraie and has seven sumptuous suites. The rates are fully inclusive for the entire villa, which has 18 staff including chefs and spa therapists. It has an enormous pool as well as a tennis court, private cinema and its own hammam. Simply indulgent. Villa Ezzahra costs £1,285pp for 4 nights based on 14 people. For a smaller-size party, take Villa Alkhozama next door, which has two bedrooms and costs £750pp for 2 nights based on 4 people. Prices include all meals & soft drinks, but exclude flights.

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Have you ever wondered what travel experts pack in their suitcases? Going on safari normally means varied climates and internal flights with strict baggage-weight limitations, making packing a dilemma. 68 | SPRING 2016

Basic requirements include a good camera, sunscreen, sturdy shoes and a hat. However, during our travels across the continent we have picked up some tips for other great travel essentials you should never leave home without – and tricks to maximise your time ticking off the Big Five. LIGHTWEIGHT SOFT LUGGAGE Big enough to carry all your essentials but small enough to squeeze into a tiny storage compartment – wheels are definitely out. LAUNDRY ON LOCATION Many lodges offer laundry service (always check), so you don’t need to bring a lot of clothes. Three sets of items are normally fine, even for a 10-day safari. TONES AND LAYERS Layers and dual-purpose items are perfect. Light (not white) colours really are best, ensuring you don’t stand out from your surroundings or become a magnet for insects. POWER POINT Always take extra camera batteries, memory cards and a power strip as most lodges have limited charge points. A SCARF Possibly your most versatile accessory, great for keeping you warm on a chilly morning, protecting your face on dusty game drives or dressing up an evening outfit. A LIGHTWEIGHT DOWN JACKET They’re virtually weightless, don’t take up room and are warmer than fleeces. Lightweight rain ponchos also come in handy, while cashmere jumpers are great for the plane or travelling. POCKET BINOCULARS It’s always best to have your own binoculars, as you don’t want to miss anything. There are lots of options out there, but we swear by the small and lightweight Swarovski Optik range.

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Ask our team of experts... ?

We are a family bored of summer beach holidays- what else can we do that would be fun for all ages?

Rob says: For people who want to do more on holiday than just lie on a beach, I’d always look for a destination that has plenty of other things to do, and with children, destinations with interesting wildlife are always a hit. Costa Rica offers a huge range of biodiversity, with several different types of terrain within its small borders. With beaches on both the Caribbean and Pacific coasts, rainforest and cloud forest, as well as volcanoes, the changing landscape offers a great backdrop from which to see turtle, toucan and numerous other animals. What makes it particularly appealing right now is that British Airways is launching a direct flight into the country from Gatwick from April 2016, making it a much easier destination to reach than in previous years. 70 | SPRING 2016

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We are a couple looking for a long weekend break staying in a hotel either in, or within walking distance, of a town with good restaurants - do you have a recommendation?

We missed out on a holiday over Christmas last year because flights were too expensive/ not available - when should we start planning for next Christmas?

Belinda says: We would recommend Hotel Crillion Le Brave in Provence, France as it is particularly good for foodies, wine connoisseurs and those wanting spectacular countryside with plenty to keep them busy – or simply enjoy their gorgeous surroundings. Walking, cycling and riding are just a selection of what’s on offer plus there is tennis and golf nearby. The hotel is situated in a village with authentic restaurants and bars but is also near enough to other cities for culture. It is close to a wealth of vineyards where the wine is beyond compare. In particular attention is paid to the local wines of Provence and the Rhone Valley, with a choice of some excellent vintages. The flight from London is a little under 2 hours which adds to the attraction. This stonebuilt, hilltop hideaway makes for a great long weekend break.

Amy says: The best time to start planning for Christmas is Boxing Day! I say that flippantly but not wholly tongue in cheek - the reality is that it is never too early to start the ball rolling for your festive holiday. The sooner the better really does ring true… leaving it will only see your options become limited and flights hike in price as availability dwindles and time goes on. Last minute deals are not applicable to the holiday season. If you can give us a call the moment you even think about heading off over Christmas, the more chance we have of making your holiday aspirations a reality. 71

BAILEY ROBINSON, The Courtyard, Hungerford, Berkshire RG17 0NF t: +44 (0)1488 689700 | f:(0)20 +44 7359 (0)1488 681973 | (0)20 e: [email protected] 66–68 Essex Road, London, N1 8LR | t: +44 3938 | f: +44 7226 5800 | e: [email protected]

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