Restaurants and coffee shops may not provide wi-fi, but do check with them once. There are internet cafes all over the c
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CHENNAI
A visit to Chennai is short of delights of the tourist brochure variety. Its now a modern metropolis with spanking malls and swish restaurants, but it has not lost its grip on its heritage and culture. It needs a keen eye to spot the traditional architecture, antique churches and temples of Chennai, but in this city, the past is always present.
TRANSPORT GETTING THERE • Air: The Anna International Airport and domestic Kamaraj terminal next door have daily flights to all metros and major cities. Autos and taxis are available outside both. • Train: Interstate trains and those heading west generally depart from Central train station, while trains heading south depart from Egmore. LOCAL TRANSPORT • Auto: They charge `20 for the first two kilometres and then 10 for every kilometre after that. It is the most convenient way to travel around the city. • Bus: Chennai’s bus system is worth getting to know. The main city bus stand is at Parry’s Corner, and fares are between `5 and `12. • Taxi: There are various radio taxis you can pre-book. The charges vary from `10–25 a kilometre. A full day cab costs `800 for 8 hours/80km. • Train: Efficient MRTS trains run every 15 minutes and are a convenient way to get around. CONNECTIvITy Most big hotels have business centres or offer free wi-fi. Restaurants and coffee shops may not provide wi-fi, but do check with them once. There are internet cafes all over the city; most charge between `20 and `30 for an hour.
Quick Facts STD Code: 044 Helpful websites: www.tamilnadutourism.org www.lonelyplanet.com/india/ tamil-nadu/chennai-madras Chennai is home to 500 years of church architecture that offers amazing variety. Mostly around George Town and Santhome. I chennai’s busy streets; ©Getty iMaGes/ Peter adaMs
TOP EXPERIENCES Government Museum Sprawling over a large campus with four main buildings and 46 galleries, this is one of the best museums in the city. The Museum Theatre resembles Italianate architecture and is a throwback to another era. The National Art Gallery is a stunning piece of architecture combining Mughal and Rajasthani styles. Valluvar Kottam This memorial honours the Tamil poet Thiruvalluvar and his classic work, the Thirukural. A weaver by trade, Thiruvalluvar lived around the 1st century BC in what is present-day Chennai and wrote this famed poem, providing a moral code for millions of followers. The three-level memorial replicates ancient Tamil architecture
and boasts an immense 35m chariot, as well as an enormous auditorium and inscriptions of the Thirukural’s 1330 couplets. Vivekananda House This is interesting not only for the displays on the famous ‘wandering monk’, but also for the semicircular structure in which it’s housed. Swami Vivekananda stayed here briefly in 1897 and preached his ascetic philosophy to adoring crowds. The museum houses a collection of photographs and memorabilia from the swami’s life, a gallery of religious historical paintings and the meditation room where Vivekananda stayed. Marina Beach Holding the spot of second-longest beach in the world, Marina Beach is undoubtedly Chennai’s pride.
I Many dance Festivals are held in chennai throuGh the year; © GettyiMaGes/ srivatsaa
The Italianate promenade was built more than a century ago and the name Marina is an ode to its Sicilian inspiration. It’s best to stroll along this lively sandy stretch early evening both to take in the refreshing sea breeze and to admire the heritage buildings on the opposite side. Theosophical Society Between the Adyar River and the coast, the 100 hectares of the Theosophical Society provide a green and peaceful retreat from the city. It’s a lovely spot to just wander; the sprawling grounds contain a church, mosque, Buddhist shrine and Hindu temple. The Theosophical Society’s bestknown symbol is the 400-yearold Adyar banyan tree which has put in nearly 1000 roots within the complex.
Fort St George Finished around 1653 by the British East India Company, the fort has undergone many facelifts over the years. Inside the vast perimeter walls is now a precinct housing the Secretariat & Legislative Assembly. Visit the Fort Museum for interesting military memorabilia from World War I and 18th century etchings. San Thome Cathedral This is a soaring Roman Catholic church between Kapaleeshwarar Temple and Marina Beach. In the basement is a modern chapel housing the tomb of St Thomas the Apostle, above is a museum containing Thomas related artefacts but are of varying degrees of historical dubiousness. Dakshina Chitra This is an exciting cross cultural living museum of art, architecture, lifestyles, crafts and performing arts of South India. Kapaleeswarar Temple Mylapore’s landmark is the impressive Dravidian style Kapaleeswarar Temple and its temple tank. The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and was built by the Pallavas of the 15th century and further developed by the Vijayanagar kings in the 16th century.
AROUND CHENNAI Mahabalipuram I 52 km Listed as a World Heritage Site because of its ancient archaeological wonders, this fascinating place is also known as Mamallapuram. It is a laid-back town which most travellers flock to. The windswept Shore Temple is a sight worth catching on the water’s edge. Kanchipuram I 72km Also known as ‘Silk City’, Kanchipuram is not only reputed for its world famous traditionally crafted silk saris but also its culture and civilization with its glorious display of a thousand temples.
Tirupati I 135km The holy hill of Tirumala is always packed with lakhs of devotees, who come to worship Lord Venkateswara. The temple is often compared to the Vatican as a place of worship that is incredibly rich and receives the highest number of pilgrims. Puducherry I 160km Fondly termed as ‘Pondy’, this former French colony is a sea of tranquillity with clean cobbled streets and colonial townhouses aligned beside them. I the kaPaleeswarar teMPle has stunninG FiGures adorninG the toP; © GettyiMaGes/ walter bibikow
ACCOMMODATION THE PARk %42676000; www. theparkhotels.com; 601 Anna Salai; rooms from `10,500 This super-stylish hotel flaunts design everywhere you look, from the bamboo, steel and gold cushions of the towering lobby to the posters from classic South Indian movies shot in Gemini Studios. Rooms have lovely bedding, and stylish touches including glasswalled bathrooms. It has three restaurants, a large open-air pool and spa also. RESIdENCy TOWERS %28156363; www. theresidency.com; Sir Theagaraya Nagar Road, T Nagar; rooms from `5200 At this price, it’s like Residency I the Park hotel has PleasinG decor; ©the Park
Towers doesn’t know what a good thing it has going: fivestar elegance with personality. Every floor is decorated differently, but rooms all have sliding doors in front of windows to block out light and noise, dark-wood furniture and thoughtful touches. LOTuS %28157272; www.thelotus. in; 15 venkatraman Street, T Nagar; rooms from `2000 An absolute gem, this hotel offers a quiet setting away from the main roads, a good veg restaurant, and fresh, stylish rooms with wooden floors and cheerful decor. yWCA INTERNATIONAL GuEST HOuSE %25324234; 1086 Poonamallee High Road; rooms from `1000–1500 The YWCA guesthouse, set in green and shady grounds, offers a calm atmosphere and
exceptionally good value. Run efficiently by an amiable staff, it provides good-sized, impeccably clean rooms, spacious common areas and good-value meals (`150/225 for veg/non veg). fOOTPRINT b&b %9840037483; www. chennaibedandbreakfast. com; Gayatri Apartments, 16 South Street, Alwarpet; rooms from `4000 This B&B is located in a quiet street in a leafy neighbourhood. Bowls of pretty flowers and old-Madras drawings set the scene. The nine cosy, spotless rooms have king-size or wide twin beds. Breakfasts (Western or Indian) are generous, wi-fi is free and the hospitable owners can tell you all you need to make the most of your time. Phone or email in advance as walk-ins are discouraged. vIvANTA by TAj– CONNEmARA %866000000; www. vivantabytaj.com; binny Road; rooms from `13,0000 The Taj group has four hotels in and around Chennai but this is the only one with historical ambience, built in the 1850s as the British governor’s residence. There’s a pool in the tropical garden, and even the small rooms are large and comfortable.
EATING
HOTEL SARAvANA bHAvAN %28192055; www. saravanabhavan.com; 21 kennet Lane Delicious lunch and evening South Indian thali meals at the Saravana Bhavans are available from `80 to 100. This famous Chennai vegetarian chain is also excellent for South Indian breakfasts – idlis and vadas, ice creams, filter coffee and other Indian vegetarian fare including biryanis and pulaos. They have several branches across the city. PONNuSAmy HOTEL Wellington Estate, 24 Ethiraj Road This well-known non-veg place serves curry, biryani and Chettinad specialities. Look out for interesting options like brain fry and crab masala. I Many restaurants serve south indian staPles like dosa & idli; © Getty iMaGes/ PrabhaGraPhy
SPARky’S dINER Ramanathan Salai, Spur Tank Road An expat-run American diner plastered with US licence plates and movie posters, with Sinatra crooning on the stereo. Come for reliably good Western food, especially the pasta, and a bottomless cup of iced tea. If you’re craving a USstyle burger you might have to adjust your expectations a little (they’re not bad though). muRuGAN IdLy Shop 77 GN Chetty Road, T Nagar Those in the know generally agree this particular branch of the small chain serves some of the best idli and South Indian meals in town. We heartily concur. A2b (AdyAR ANANd bHAWAN) bharathi Salai Enjoy South Indian classics,
veg biryani, a wide range of sweets and savoury snacks in clean surrounds. THE GRANd SWEETS ANd SNACkS %24914213; www. grandsweets.com; 2nd main Road, Gandhi Nagar Adyar Excellent for traditional South Indian sweets, savouries, crunchy snacks, chutneys and pickles. The restaurant serves piping hot vegetarian south Indian tiffin too. SRI kRISHNA SWEETS %243112324; www. srikrishnasweets.com; 2&3 Prakasam Road, Panagal Park, T Nagar Their Mysorepak (sweet made of gram flour, ghee and sugar) is to die for. It has branches all over the city. The Purasawalkam branch is in a renovated 120-year old house. kumARAkOm %42034203; www. kumarakomrestaurant.com; 9 kodambakkam High Road You may have to stand in a queue for a table at this popular restaurant done up with dark-wood furniture. The seafood is quite good. Try the prawns masala or karimeen pollichatthu (pearl-spot fish marinated and steamed in a banana leaf).
I silk saris are a Must-buy in chennai; © GettyiMaGes/ arvind balaraMan
SHOPPING THEAGARAyA NAGAR Better known as T Nagar, it has great shopping for silks, especially at Pondy Bazaar and around Panagal Park. Nungambakkam’s Khader Nawaz Khan Road is a pleasant lane of designer shops, cafes and galleries and there are plenty of malls across the city. NALLI SILkS 9 Nageswara Road, T Nagar The huge, super colourful granddaddy of silk shops, with a jewellery branch next door is a must-visit if you’re looking for traditional silk saris. SAkuRA 72 North mada Street, mylapore From traditional and heavy temple costume jewellery for dancers to small and elegant
pieces for evening wear and silver objects and jewellery you’ll get it all here. HIGGINbOTHAmS 116 Anna Salai If you’re fond of books make your way to Higginbothams that is reckoned to be India’s oldest bookshop. It opened in 1844 and has a decent collection of kinds of books. POOmPuHAR 108 Anna Salai This large branch of the fixed-price state government handicrafts chain is good for everything from plaster deities to a 1m-high bronze Nataraja. RASI SILk HOuSE 1 Sannadhi Street, mylapore This silk shop (formerly Radha Silk Emporium) is over a century old and has a good
selection of silk saris and cotton saris not just from Tamil Nadu, but across South India and also has an adjoining shop for handcrafts, Tanjore paintings, Salem woodcuts and gift tables.
ACTIVITIES STORyTRAILS %9600080215, 42124214; www.storytrails.in It runs highly recommended neighbourhood walking tours based around themes such as dance, jewellery and bazaars, as well as tours specially aimed at children. THE CHENNAI PHOTOWALk %9884467463 August 22 is the day Chennai was recorded as a city over 300 years ago. A photo walk takes you past some of Chennai’s historic spots.
