SUMAQ MACHU PICCHU HOTEL

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cultural experience and a lifelong ambition to see Machu Picchu—one of the. New7Wonders of the ... I received a phone
The truth without the hype.

Andrea Burns

SUMAQ MACHU PICCHU HOTEL

R E V I E W E D F E B R U A R Y 2017

R E V I E W E R S C O R E : 4.8/5.0

If you have an adventurous spirit, a yearning to embrace an immersive, cultural experience and a lifelong ambition to see Machu Picchu—one of the New7Wonders of the World—Sumaq is likely to win your heart; it did mine. Before I arrived, I was fairly sure I wasn’t going to find high glamour here. People come to the region for adventure but as an enthusiastic, luxury traveller, I wanted to find the best place in town to hang my hat. I’m pretty sure I found it—this boutique-style hotel was charming, homely and I felt exceptionally pampered. My lasting impression is best captured in the hotel’s strapline: “Feel the Andean wisdom from within.” The decor is inspired by the Inca philosophy: the ground floor is themed around fire and is done up in golds and reds, and tapestries by local craftspeople are framed and proudly displayed in the corridors. Authentic experiences take place here regularly, including the ‘pachamama’ payment to Mother Earth ritual with a local shaman. Sumaq has personality by the bucket-load Guests can embrace a more modern way of Peruvian life at the ceviche-making cooking classes and the pisco sour (the national cocktail) lessons that are included with every stay. There’s a real sense of place here. There’s an eco luxury feel too. Part of Sumaq’s mission is to help protect the local environment. The mighty Vilcanota River roars right outside the door and it felt like I could reach out and touch the jungled mountain slopes, they were so close. The hotel’s sustainable practices are certified by the Rainforest Alliance which likes to ‘give back’ to the local community. One member of staff told me that Andean cheese is bought from deaf and blind producers with proceeds going towards their education, while potatoes grown by local farmers are whipped into dishes and served back to them, to inspire their full potential. I fell in love with the place all the more.

D E TA I L E D R E V I E W B E L O W

BARING ALL +

 The place to stay for a luxury Indiana Jones-style experience, surrounded by breathtaking jungle views  Gastronomy plays a huge part here; Peruvian dishes are given a deliciously innovative twist  If budget allows, treat yourself to a stay in the Imperial Suite for an incredible romantic stay  If you like to sleep in, opt for a room away from the road  Upgrade to a junior suite to guarantee air- conditioned comfort

SUMAQ MACHU PICCHU HOTEL

The location in the town of Agua Calientes, somewhat lacking in ‘curb appeal’, is nevertheless handy. The town square, local shops, restaurants, bars, a bakery, the market and the butterfly farm are all a short walk away. And the bus stop (for the 25-minute ride up to the entrance of Machu Picchu) is very close.

there waiting for me—I was surprised how quickly it had gotten there. I received a phone call about ten minutes later to check that everything was ok with my room; it was.

If however you are looking for total tranquillity and to be away from some of the hustle and bustle, you may prefer to stay away from the town.

The decor in my 34m² (366ft²) Sumaq Deluxe, at the front of the hotel, included beautiful detailing, notably the Inca cross, used for the handles on the furniture, while the colour scheme was rich and warm browns, reds and golds. A local piece of pottery, a black and white image of traditional dress and a locally made bed runner, helped me to embrace the Andean culture.

Arrival Experience After a train journey of almost two hours from Ollantaytambo through the stunning Sacred Valley, I arrived at Agua Calientes and was met by a hotel porter who was waiting outside the station. He took my suitcase, offered me an umbrella (it rains frequently here), and led me through the market and the town to the hotel which took about five minutes. There is no other way to get to the hotel—there aren’t any cars or buses and no road goes through the town. I must confess, as I walked down the uneven, dirty road towards the hotel, I did wonder where he was taking me. But when I walked into the hotel lobby, I relaxed and found a colourful, cosy bar/lounge area where I was invited to sit down. I was given a cold towel and a refreshing drink, before being handed my key card and being shown to my room. My suitcase was already

Rooms & Suites

Beautiful wooden-framed, glass sliding doors that ran almost the full width of the room, gave me a jaw-dropping view. Stepping out onto the tiny, unfurnished balcony allowed me just enough space to stand and gaze for a while at the towering mountains and the mighty river. The doors weren’t lockable, but it felt perfectly safe. However, it did mean I could hear the river rapids cascading in all their glory. As a very light sleeper, I thought I’d never drift off when the time came for bed, but to my surprise the constant ‘melody’ soothed me into a peaceful slumber (no earplugs required) effectively.

I was woken up around 5.30am by buses going to and from town to Machu Picchu. However, as I wasn’t planning a lie-in it didn’t matter too much but if I’d not been heading out until late morning or afternoon, this may have bothered me. There were two double beds and in between them was a table where a torch and plug-in mosquito repellent had been thoughtfully placed. It’s advised not to leave your balcony doors open because of mossies, although I didn’t see any ‘nasties’ at all during my stay. The central lighting switch and two USB ports were here too, and a faintly illuminated dot on the switch helped guide me to it in the night—so simple, so sensible. Inside the wardrobe there was a digital safe and a fridge—large enough to put a bottle of wine—stocked with beer and soft drinks including ‘Inka Cola’. And the thick robe provided was so cosy that I was tempted to buy one from the hotel’s boutique to take home. It was nice to have tea and coffee making facilities; the filter coffee was locally sourced and should I have developed a taste for it, it was available for purchase. There was also a table and chairs with a welcome note and platter of local cheeses, nuts and chocolate on the first night. I also liked the customer service form for housekeeping. It asked me things like whether I wanted the bed linen

SUMAQ MACHU PICCHU HOTEL

and towels changing, and if I wanted the same amount of pillows on my bed (there were six to begin with). During my stay, I viewed a junior suite which had a double jacuzzi bath with views of the jungle. And the Imperial Suite was beautifully decorated with vibrant colours, striking metal decorative objects and two dining areas, a lounge area, a jacuzzi bath with jungle views, and a cocktail making area—it took my breath away. In my Sumaq Deluxe there was a 47” LCD TV with cable channels and the WiFi worked well. There were about six sockets around the room—ample. There wasn’t any air-conditioning, but the room was the ideal temperature for me—not too warm and not too cold. In fact, the hottest it will ever get in Machu Picchu is about 26 celsius, (between April to October, the hot season). There was, however, a radiator: just in case.

The Bathroom The bathroom wasn’t the largest, but it was beautifully kitted-out in marble and had everything I needed. I had to reflect upon the fact that I was in a remote part of the world, where space is precious and building materials are brought in by rail. It was a lovely surprise to find a bath—for relaxing my weary muscles—with a rainfall shower overhead. There was a small hairdryer on the wall, surprisingly powerful, and larger hairdryers are available on request. And if

you’ve brought your own, there are two sockets and a large mirror over the sink with two extra lights to help style away, do makeup, or shave. Along with complimentary bottles of drinking water, there were the usual amenities and 30ml bottles of Pascal Morabito shower gel, shampoo and conditioner. In a separate, little Sumaqbranded bottle, there was a very nicely fragranced body lotion—the re-fillable kind, great from an environmental point of view. There were also two pedal bins, one for general waste and one for recycling food waste, which again, I liked.

Dining Experience The Terrace: Degustation Menu This six course tasting menu—two starters, two mains and two desserts—was a perfect showcase of the haute cuisine on offer. Make sure you’re hungry, as portions may appear to be small but are filling. Served on the terrace—an indoor area amongst the trees and enclosed by glass—at a table dressed with candles, it was very atmospheric. On the way in, I stopped to admire the gorgeous herb garden that utilised every inch of space on the indoor/outdoor living wall. Each course was explained by one of the chefs and included ceviche, avocado risotto, lamb shank and a trio of desserts—all exquisitely presented like works of art.

There is a special romantic dining version of this experience for couples that I was told includes interesting additions to the norm, rose petals on the table and a rather lovely parting gift—but I won’t tell all and spoil the surprise…

Other restaurant options I also indulged in the pachamanca (meaning ‘earth pot’), a culinary tradition of the Incas. As I sipped my chilled glass of frutillada—made of fermented corn and red fruits—I watched with fascination as the chef and her team of cooks, dressed in traditional Andean attire, made an oven in the ground using stones. Potatoes, chicken, beef and fava beans were all wrapped in banana leaves and covered with herbs and cooked for 45 minutes. At which point, I was invited back to try tantalising morsels straight from the ‘oven’ before everything was whisked to the kitchen, made pretty and served as a hearty lunch in the Qunuq restaurant. Delicious. Qunuq has gorgeous views of the river and the ambience is relaxed. It’s also where breakfast—a buffet with a good range of sweet and savoury, hot and cold—is served. Not for the fainthearted, I recommend the Andean toast—it had a gooey texture and was mildly spicy but sweet. I was also offered eggs cooked to order, a range of fresh juices—from mango

SUMAQ MACHU PICCHU HOTEL

to papaya—and hot drinks. The selection of milk included soya and lactose-free options.

a warm greeting, with staff remembering my name.

Running short of time, I missed the chance to have a spa treatment to soothe the muscles in my legs after my day on Machu Picchu; I’d have opted for the massage with Andean stones.

I have plenty of examples of the wonderful service. On returning to the hotel after my trip to Machu Picchu, staff invited me to sit down and gave me a cold towel and iced tea. Every time I left the hotel I was offered an umbrella. When I dined on the degustation menu, I mentioned that I didn’t like one of the meats so I was offered other options. The next day at the pachamanca lunch, the staff remembered I didn’t eat that particular meat and spoke to me about an alternative. The list goes on…

Kids/Teens Facilities

Guest Profile

For drinks throughout the day, there is a bar, lounge style and comfortable and very cosy in the evenings when the fireplace is lit.

Spa & Wellness

Machu Picchu is not a child-friendly destination, or so I thought until, after a double take, I realised there was a toddler making a very good attempt at climbing the steps of Machu Picchu. Sumaq Hotel caters for families with interconnecting rooms. Better yet, little ones can enjoy cookie making and get cosy listening to a recounting of Andean tales on a blanket surrounded by cushions and lamps—the perfect start to any story.

Staff & Service Service was consistently good and staff were helpful, intuitive, attentive and never intrusive. Doors were always opened for me and there was always a smile and

There was a Japanese tour group, British and Americans. I saw several pairs of walking boots, as well as shorts in the restaurant at lunchtime. At dinner, people were more smart/casual.

Departure Experience Check-out was swift and the team thanked me and bid me goodbye. My suitcase was walked back to the train station gate for me.