history, many remarkable buildings, a fascinating maze of an old quarter, excellent museums, fine ... Train: Ahmedabad Railway station is the main one, located in. Kalupur. It has daily trains to ... Tree Hill Garden on the west side (entered from ...
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AHMEDABAD
Gujarat’s capital city, Ahmedabad, is a startling metropolis with a long history, many remarkable buildings, a fascinating maze of an old quarter, excellent museums, fine restaurants and fabulous night markets. It is home to the famous Sabarmati Ashram.
TRANSPORT
Quick Facts
GETTING THERE • Air: Ahmedabad’s busy airport, Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel International Airport, has direct flights to several Indian cities and, overseas. • Train: Ahmedabad Railway station is the main one, located in Kalupur. It has daily trains to rest of the country.
STD Code: 079
LocaL TRaNspoRT • Auto: Autorickshaw drivers are supposed to turn their meter to zero at the start of a trip then calculate the fare using a conversion chart at the end. In some cases, you’ll have to negotiate fares in advance. • Bus The local buses connect different parts of the city and fares range from `3–25.
With broad avenues and greenery, Gandhinagar, 26km away, forms a striking contrast to Ahmedabad. Named Gandhinagar after Mahatma Gandhi, it’s India’s second planned city after Chandigarh.
coNNEcTIvITy There are internet cafes readily available. Most big hotels and restaurants offer free Wi-fi.
I ahmeDabaD at Dusk © gettyimages/ ashish shah
Helpful Websites www.lonelyplanet.com/india/ gujarat/ahmedabad-amdavad www.gujarattourism.com
I Dry Fruits are a popular pick in ahmeDabaD; © getty images/ suDhamshu hebbar
TOP EXPERIENCES Sabarmati Ashram About 5km north of the centre, in peaceful, shady grounds on the river’s west bank, this ashram was Gandhi’s headquarters from 1917 to 1930 during the long struggle for Indian independence. Bhadra Fort Built immediately after the founding of Ahmedabad in 1411, Bhadra Fort now houses government offices and a Kali temple. Its gate formed the eastern entrance of the Ahmedabad citadel, which stretched west to the river. From the roof you can check out the structure and views of the surrounding streets. Shreyas Folk Museum This museum, 3km west of the river in Bhudarpura,
displays an impressive range of Gujarati folk arts, including woodcarvings, metalwork and some wonderful embroidered textiles and amazing tie-dyed quilts. Included in the ticket is the Kalpana Mangaldas Museum, with festival masks from around India and, just to round things off, an elephant skeleton. Sarkhej Roza In the Sarkhej area, 8km southwest of the old centre, Sarkhej Roza is a mosque, tomb and palace complex dedicated to the memory of Ahmed Shah I’s spiritual advisor, Ahmed Khattu Ganj Baksh. The elegant though dilapidated buildings cluster around a great (now often dry) tank, constructed by Sultan Mahmud Begada in the mid-15th century. It’s an atmospheric place that was
I the sabarmati asharm is the most popular attraction in ahmeDabaD; © pallavi pasricha
used as a retreat by several of Ahmedabad’s rulers. Kankaria Lake Built in 1451 and recently dandified as a recreation space for the city, this large lake is a nice respite from the hectic streets. Attractions include a tethered hot-air balloon (10-minute ride `100, 10am to 10pm), a mini-train and a zoo. One Tree Hill Garden on the west side (entered from outside) contains some quite grand colonial Dutch tombs.
Visit Ahmedabad during Navratri Festival (September/October). People dress up in sparkling finery to whirl the night away in garba or dandiya rasa circle dances till the early hours. This carries on for nine nights.
ACCOMMODATION HousE of mG %25506946; www. houseofmg.com; Lal darwaja; rooms from `4990 This 1920s building (with two excellent restaurants) opposite Siddi Sayid’s Mosque was once the home of textile magnate Sheth Mangaldas Girdhardas; it was converted into a beautiful heritage hotel in the 1990s by his great grandson. LE mERIdIEN aHmEdabad %25505505; http:// lemeridien.com/ ahmedabad; Khanpur Road; rooms from `6500 This luxurious option towers over the Sabarmati River’s east bank. All rooms are super comfortable – making cheaper rooms the best deal – and the suites are palatial. Breakfast is excellent and as huge as you like, and there is I holiDay inn express ahmeDabaD ashram roaD is Done up in bright colours; © pallavi pasricha
a neat indoor swimming pool, spa and sauna. Ask for the best available rate, which can be about half the rack rate. HoTEL ambassadoR %25502490; www. ambassadorahmedabad. com; Khanpur Road; rooms from `2100 With a bright white exterior and modern decor inside, the Ambassador greets you with a chilled lobby and friendly desk. It follows up with rooms that are quite stylish in browns and creams. With discounts often available, it’s good value; ask to have breakfast included and it will be. RITz INN %22123842; www. hotelritzinn.com; station Road; rooms from `2700 Near the railway station, this smart hotel has unusual class and is excellent value for money. The art-deco lobby, comfortable rooms with
superb beds, and unusually slick and amiable service make it an outstanding option. comfoRT INN pREsIdENT %26467575; www. comfortinnpresident.com; off cG Road, Navrangpura; rooms from `3125 This is a calm, well-run hotel on a quiet street close to the Chimanlal Girdharilal (CG) Road shops in middleclass Navrangpura. Rooms aren’t huge but are solidly comfortable and well equipped, and there’s an inhouse wine shop as well as a multicuisine restaurant. Good discounts are often available; airport transfers are free. HoLIday INN ExpREss aHmEdabad asHRam Road %61656699; www.ihg.com; ashram Road; rooms from `3500 The business hotel has a good location and is close to the Gandhi Ashram. It has 173 spacious well-decorated rooms. There is free Wi-Fi access for the guests. It has two restaurants – The Great Room, where breakfast is served and Asia Kitchen, which offers a variety of Oriental options, and that’s not just limited to Chinese. Think Korean, Japanese, Burmese and Indonesian. The lobby is done up in bright shades.
EATING NEELKaNTH paTaNG %26586200; chinubhai center, west end Nehru bridge For a meal with a view, the Neelkanth Patang has no rivals as it’s 50m above the ground and revolves. The multi-cuisine buffet meals are bountiful. It’s worth calling ahead to book. aGasHIyE %25506946; House of mG, Lal darwaja On the rooftop terrace of the city’s finest hotel, Agashiye features an all-veg menu, which changes daily, begins with a welcoming drink and is a cultural journey around the traditional thali, with a multitude of diverse dishes delivered to your plate. It finishes with hand-churned ice cream. For dinner, it is advisable to book ahead. HoTEL zK Relief Road, Lal darwaja This popular AC, non-veg restaurant has tinted windows, low lighting and impeccable service. The boneless mutton kadai is fantastic, and (like a many dishes here) comes served over a flame. The chicken Afghani curry is also recommended and locals love the chicken pesto Chinese. On weekends, there may be wait.
GREEN HousE House of mG, Lal darwaja Green House is the casual front restaurant at the House of MG. The selection of veggie Gujarati dishes is superb, as is the chaat; the house special sharbat; and the malpuva.
SHOPPING Law GaRdEN NIGHT maRKET An evening market packed with stalls selling glittering wares from Kachchh and Saurashtra. It’s chocka-block with fantastically decorated
cholis and chaniyas, as well as embroidered wall hangings, costume jewellery and more. GaRvI GuRjaRI ashram Road This state government- run outlet has three floors of Gujarati crafts, including silk and handloomed- cotton saris, painted metal jewellery boxes and clothing in folksy designs. There are some good finds if you rummage around.
I gujarat is Famous For its sweets anD snacks; © getty images/ Devansh jhaveri
