issue 21 - Berkeley Group

LONDON DOCK’S EXCITING REAWAKENING // LONDON ’S BEST FOOD MARKETS UNCOVERED // EXPLORE THE CITY ’S SCULPTURE // INTERIOR DESIGN AT CHELSEA CREEK // THE BEST OF MEN ’S GROOMING REVEALED // AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO KINGSTON // EALING THE NEW FOODIE DESTINATION // BATTERSEA’S THRIVING ART SCENE

ISSUE 21

Princess 40M – M/Y ANKA

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photo: robert ascroft, courtesy sony classical

photo: robert ascroft, courtesy sony classical

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Small Mount Street Bag in Navy Saffiano

Small Mount Street Bag in Navy Saffiano

ASPINALOFLONDON.COM ASPINALOFLONDON.COM

WELCOME / IS SUE 21

WELCOME / IS SUE 21

There’s no better way to awaken the senses than to experience the best of London. From unearthing hidden gems to witnessing cultural blockbusters, from marvelling at innovative structures to getting lost in acres of green space, there is so much to do, see, eat and fall in love with in this buzzing metropolis. So where to start? The answer is right here, with our curated collection of the capital’s best bits. In this issue of London by St George, we explore the city’s past by delving into its fascinating history, looking at days gone by in trading, aviation, art and music. Next, we celebrate London’s prosperous present by uncovering exotic new breakfast offerings, visiting the hottest grooming establishments for the most discerning of modern gentlemen, and delving into Battersea’s bustling art scene, where galleries new and old are thriving. Perhaps most importantly, we look with excitement to London’s future, including the latest developments from St George, which form an integral part of London’s transformation. Whether your perfect home is a sophisticated penthouse in the heart of Chelsea, or at the top of London’s latest architectural icon with uninterrupted views of the city, there’s a new abode for every Londoner to realise their lifestyle dreams.

stgeorgeplc.com

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BRITISH ENGIN EERING . TE STED BEYON D EN DUR ANCE. The Bremont ALT1-C is a mechanical aviation chronometer that’s 99.998% accurate. It’s painstakingly built by hand at our workshops in Henley-on-Thames, Oxfordshire, England. But if the inside of the ALT1-C is delicate, the outside is anything but. The case is made from steel that’s seven times harder than you’ll find in ordinary watches. (We bombard it with electrons to toughen it up.) The crystal is sapphire and scratch-resistant. (We know, we’ve tried.) And the whole thing is water resistant to 100 metres. We hope you enjoy the ALT1-C. After all, you’ll be together a long time.

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CO NTENTS

ST GEORGE / CONTENTS

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NEWS & CULTURE Become acquainted with London’s finest cultural events

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DOCKSIDE LIVING London Dock, the capital’s commercial heartland, is reborn

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EATING ON THE HOP Victoria Stewart explores London’s best food markets

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SCULPTURE IN THE SKY How the architects of One Blackfriars are transforming the skyline

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BLADE & BRISTLE A round-up of London’s superior male grooming experiences

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THAT EALING FEELING Ealing has fast become a cultural and foodie destination

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FILMWORKS Filmworks is set to breathe new life into film in Ealing

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MASTER STROKE How the Fulham Reach Boat Club is inspiring the next generation

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ART & SOUL Discover London’s treasured public artworks

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MODERN LIVING Chelsea Creek’s penthouse is at the forefront of interior design

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AROUND THE WORLD BEFORE BRUNCH We discover London’s favourite exotic breakfast offerings

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DOCKSIDE FINERY Pennington Street Warehouse becomes a sartorial treasure chest

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REACHING FOR THE SKIES A new community is thriving at Beaufort Park

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STATE OF THE ART Explore Battersea’s latest arty offerings

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NO ORDINARY WORKOUTS Get creative with the capital’s most unconventional workouts

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LEAD US HOME TO HAMMERSMITH Why James Wallman moved to Hammersmith, and stayed

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FIT FOR A KING An insider’s guide to the very best of Kingston upon Thames

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WWW.BREMONT.COM

SOUNDS OF THE CITY The future of London’s music industry is as glittering as its past

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N F I L O N

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EXHIBITIONS

I T E O N

Balenciaga at the V&A Maestro of couture Cristóbal Balenciaga represents the ‘ne plus ultra’ of fashion design. The core of this inventive exhibition is 100 of his exquisite pieces, but the beautifully curated show also includes work from the protégés who took his ideas of glamour and style to new heights. vam.ac.uk

‘ LO N D O N I S A R O O S T F O R E V E R Y B I R D, ’ S O S A I D T W I C E - OV E R P R I M E M I N I S T E R B E N J A M I N D I S R A E L I . N O W M O R E T H A N E V E R , T H E C A P I TA L I S A M A G N I F I C E N T P L A C E TO F E AT H E R YO U R N E S T. T O FA L L F O R T H E C I T Y L I K E S O M A N Y O T H E R S , B E C O M E A C Q U A I N T E D W I T H F I N E A R T, E XQ U I S I T E D E S I G N A N D B R E AT H TA K I N G P E R F O R M A N C E . T H R O U G H C U LT U R E YO U W I L L D I S C O V E R T H E Q U I R K Y, A B S U R D A N D C H I C – A N D T H AT I N D E F I N A B L E S O M E T H I N G T H AT M A K E S L E AV I N G D I F F I C U LT A N D R E T U R N I N G A R E L I E F

After hours at the National Gallery Botticelli, Da Vinci, Rembrandt, Gainsborough and Turner – the National Gallery’s vast collection of paintings, sculpture and antiquities make it one of the country’s great treasures. Sitting regally in Trafalgar Square and overlooked by Nelson, it is the backdrop to mourning, protest and celebration. It is an icon of London and Great Britain. Make it yours for the evening with canapés, Champagne, and a personalised tour. To experience The National Gallery’s collection with a chosen group after the crowds have gone home is surely a uniquely decadent moment to savour. trulyexperiences.com

The London 2012 Cauldron Who can forget the magical moment at the 2012 Olympics when Thomas Heatherwick’s astonishing sculpture Cauldron opened its intriguing metal arms to a wondering audience? The secrecy of its inception is now legendary; discover more of the story in a gallery dedicated to this epic piece of art. museumoflondon.org.uk

Mathematics: The Winton Gallery Changing numbers from abstract to meaningful is a tall order, but the new ‘Mathematics: The Winton Gallery’, designed by Zaha Hadid Architects, has the media in a mathematical frenzy of admiration for a show that adds up beautifully. From war and peace, to life, death, money, trade and beauty, the exhibition reveals how mathematics connects our lives in ways we might have never imagined. sciencemuseum.org.uk

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BOOKS

P R I VA T E C O L L E C T I O N S

Willow Road House A modernist house designed by architect Ernő Goldfinger (yes, Ian Fleming named his Bond villain after him) is stuffed with treasures of a contemporary feel and is admired worldwide as an example of minimalist style. Now housing a collection of paintings by the ingenious and incomparable Bridget Riley (swirling black and white designs to have your vision temporarily distorted) this modest-looking house began the revolution that was modern architecture.

Brian Eno: Light Music Some pop musicians become bigger and broader with time. Queen’s Brian May, the celebrated David Bowie and, supremely, musician Brian Eno, who has expanded his scope into the wilder realms of perception. His work with light has developed in tandem with his musical experimentation and has resulted in visions of time manipulations within his now-famous colourscapes. LED lights combine with composition in music to create works designed to challenge the viewer/listener into temporary stasis. Essays by art critic Michael Bracewell illuminate the artist’s account of his own journey into the realm of synesthesia.

nationaltrust.org.uk

Paul Stopper

Ham House Why is Ham House such a well-kept secret? Its stunning grounds and perfectly manicured topiary gardens evoke the elegant world of 17th-century aristocratic England like few places can. Inside, the treasures of this National-Trust-owned mansion include an art collection unafraid to show the sensual pulse behind the country house lifestyle, while the textiles and furniture on display whisk us back to a world of exquisite workmanship to match any in Europe. nationaltrust.org.uk

The Architect’s Home

Freud Museum London Sigmund Freud’s work changed the concept of humanity forever when he discovered the unconscious mind. Where better to delve deeper into the dark world of the unconscious than his refuge from Vienna in North London? His psychoanalytic couch with its Iranian woven rug is central, but also prints from the Italian Renaissance cover the walls and every object is suffused with significance, from his primitive statues to his etchings of imagined damnation of man, antiquities from the Orient and ancient Greece and artworks from contemporary painters. Can there be a more intriguing place for a modern pilgrim?

To the surprise of some, this intriguing book reveals that architects’ own homes are as daring as the avant-garde concepts they create for clients. Exposed in a more radical way than any commissioned house, these houses in their location, layout, style, lighting, artwork – and sense of colour – speak of their designers’ true sense of style. Gennaro Postiglione

London: Portrait of a City

freud.org.uk

Photographers have their own special take on any place. In this excitingly presented volume, the very best of London’s image-makers show the capital and its evolution, through Victoriana and the Swinging Sixties, to the Hoxton hipsters of today. Eve Arnold and Linda McCartney, Bill Brandt and Don McCullin show the razzmatazz alongside the reality of London life. Enlivened by snappy essays and cultural pointers, it is a lasting tribute to the most eclectic of cities. Reuel Golden

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weatherbysbank.com

SHOWS

John John by Annie Baker is literally stuffed with meaning; a tsunami of toys and bric-a-brac invade the stage, in a dramatic performance full of compelling characters and a hint of magical realism. Director Sam Gold creates the claustrophobia required to have the audience biting their nails and fixed to the stage. A drama, spooky though it be, you cannot look away. nationaltheatre.org.uk

Hamilton With humble off-Broadway beginnings, Hamilton is the unlikely hit that became a multiple-award-winning, Grammy-grabbing, Tony-winning sensation. Written by Lin-Manuel Miranda from the book by Ron Chernow, it tells the story of one of America’s founding fathers Alexander Hamilton and his steady rise to fame and power. Already an anti-paradigm for modern events, the cast have even taken a political stand, addressing the new Vice President from the stage on his duties to diversity. An intriguing must-see. hamiltonthemusical.co.uk

Different Trains It’s hard to believe the ever-youthful Steve Reich is 80; like his music, he seems eternally fixed in modern-music firmament as a newcomer. As part of the celebrations for his birthday, a unique performance of his famous piece Different Trains – about transport during the Second World War – will be performed by musicians from the London Contemporary Orchestra, 30 years after its world premiere at Queen Elizabeth Hall, with the accompanying video by Bill Morrison making its London premiere. southbankcentre.co.uk

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Weatherbys Private Bank is a trading name of Weatherbys Bank Ltd. Weatherbys Bank Ltd is authorised by the Prudential Regulation Authority and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority and the Prudential Regulation Authority. Financial Services Register number: 204571. Weatherbys Bank Ltd is registered in England. Registered number: 2943300. Registered Office: Sanders Road Wellingborough Northamptonshire NN8 4BX.

DOCKSIDE LIVING / LONDON DOCK


THE MODERN REBIRTH OF THE LO N D O N D O C K S , T H E C A P I TA L’ S C O M M E R C I A L H E A R T L A N D, HAS PRODUCED SOME OF T H E C I T Y ’ S M O S T E XC I T I N G MODERN ARCHITECTURE AND A S P E C TA C U L A R N E W I N S TA L L AT I O N BY A LEADING ARTIST

WORDS BY TOBY LOWE

DOCKSIDE

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LIVING

Unloading cargo at the London Docks in the Victorian era

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A self-contained town of wharves, warehouses and underground vaults, with acres of open water and miles of high-security walls, it’s almost impossible now to fully appreciate the vast scale and importance of London’s historic docks.

The London Docks were officially opened on 30th January 1805. The Perseverance was the first ship in, carrying wine from Oporto, typical of the high-quality goods flooding into London’s finest, most secure warehouses. Not just wine and tobacco but an alphabet of precious goods followed, from amber to zaffre, a kind of rare blue pigment made by roasting cobalt ore.

For hundreds of years they dominated commercial life in London and trade around the world. Beginning with a small Roman settlement, London grew quickly to become the world’s largest, richest and most powerful city. What the Venerable Bede was already describing in the seventh century as ‘the mart of many nations resorting to it by sea and land’ was an authentically global city, long before that phrase became part of the politicians’ mantra.

Competition was always intense between rival dock-owning companies, and a process of dock mergers reached its climax in 1909 when the Port of London Authority took control over the river and most of the docks. Following this, many of the original buildings came down, great expanses of water were infilled and News International moved on to the site to print The Times and other titles. This marked the beginning of the end for Fleet Street but it was a new start for Wapping, and now another, similarly exuberant chapter is opening with the rebirth of an exciting new mixed-use development known as London Dock.

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I T ’ S A L M O S T I M P O S S I B L E N O W T O F U L LY A P P R E C I A T E T H E VA S T S C A L E A N D I M P O R TA N C E O F L O N D O N ’ S H I S T O R I C D O C K S

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OPPOSITE PAGE

Goods are unloaded into the London Docks warehouses BELOW

Peaceful public space, bars, shops and state-of-the-art new homes at London Dock


Above all, Young’s work provides a spectacular way to reconnect the new London Dock with its rich and colourful past. Entranced by the unique heritage of the area, Young was particularly taken by a series of well-preserved rates and tariff books, which were used to document incoming and outgoing goods and the duties payable on each consignment. In these leathered volumes, he found he had stumbled upon an unexpectedly precious storehouse of artistic inspiration, which led to the genesis of this new work. Finding an irresistible poetry in the books’ long and seemingly quotidian lists and tabulations, he took the arcane texts and used them as the basis for a monumental display of water-cut granite lettering set into white concrete slabs. Once seen, Young’s first London commission is impossible to ignore, and each slab invites visitors and residents alike to immerse themselves in the strange and exotic lexicography associated with this most singular aspect of its long history. OPPOSITE PAGE

Trading Words by Gordon Young THIS PAGE

The Trading Words installation in progress

Moments from the City, Tower Bridge and St Katharine Docks, London Dock brings to Wapping several acres of new public space: a tapestry of squares, gardens, promenades and a magnificent central water feature. The dynamic and thriving development is successfully reinvigorating this important part of London, while forging solid links to its long and fascinating history.

To wonder what it might mean to import Caroline or Squills and Dutchdrops; to imagine what a Paroche might be or a Whangee or a Sjambok, and to ponder whether imported Aloe of Penguin was animal, vegetable or mineral?

At the heart of London Dock’s dramatic renewal are the high-quality new homes designed by St George and architect Patel Taylor, which include the recently launched Emery Wharf. Named after one of the historic imports and designed with a mid-century-modern specification, the apartments are a contemporary nod to the heritage of the area.

The answers to such questions can be as strange as the vocabulary itself and drawing comparisons with the graphic clarity of painter Piet Mondrian’s famous Composition series, and even Umberto Eco’s The Infinity of Lists, the combined effect of Young’s creation is as strange as it is beguiling.

Also celebrating the area’s past is an extraordinary new art installation by renowned artist Gordon Young. Trading Words is a floor-based typographic trail consisting of over 1,000 words, which winds its way through London Dock from Gauging Square, an area that will house a variety of shops, bars and restaurants. The text explores the historical ledgers of the imports and exports at the docks during its time in operation from 1805 to 1968. Items cited in the artwork include Elephant’s Teeth, Lucifer, Bear’s Grease, SoundingBoards, Goats’ Beards, Dragons’ Blood and Shurff, just to name a few.

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LONDON DOCK SHOW APARTMENTS & MARKETING SUITE

London Dock, London E1W 2AA [email protected] | +44 (0)20 3432 7516 londondock.co.uk

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E AT I N G O N T H E H O P / M A R K E T S


EATING ON THE HOP

LO N D O N F O O D E X P E R T V I C TO R I A S T E WA R T S H A R E S H E R S E C R E T B E S T B U Y S F R O M T H E C I T Y ’ S M O S T E N T I C I N G H I G H - E N D F O O D A N D FA R M E R S’ M A R K E T S

W O R D S B Y V I C T O R I A S T E WA R T

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You’ve got a cupboard full of charcoal biscuits, but no cheese to go on them. Now, you could head to the local supermarket to buy some but when there’s the option of moseying around a farmers’ market, where’s the fun in that? After all, food trends may come and go in London but top-quality, seasonal produce never goes out of fashion. In a city that is home to over 20 accredited farmers’ markets, plus more focusing on street food, London is brimming with places to find phenomenally good meat cured within the M25 motorway, beetroot grown by farmers in South West England, cheese produced in Tottenham or further afield in Wiltshire, and jams made in Sussex and East London. Here are seven of the very best.

BOROUGH MARKET

London’s 1,000-year-old market attracts 16 million visitors annually because of the sheer number of top producers – 113 – including some of the country’s best cheesemongers, butchers and bakers. Weekends can be tourist-heavy so go early to pick up your noteworthy produce, such as jamón Ibérico from Spanish deli-restaurant Brindisa, British cured meats from Cannon & Cannon, a range of British cheese from Neal’s Yard Dairy, and Lithuanian scalded rye bread from Karaway Bakery. If you’ve time, walk 15 minutes to the Saturday market on Druid Street, which is small but thriving. DA ILY EXCEPT SUNDAY (CHECK W EB SITE FOR OP ENING TIMES),

PARTRIDGES FOOD MARKET

8 S OUTHWARK STREET SE1

The Saturday market on Duke of York Square is one of the loveliest things about this stretch of the King’s Road because the whole area opens up for traders. It’s busy, but never crowded (except on glaringly sunny days), it’s family and dog-friendly, and since it’s hosted by high-end delicatessen Partridges next door, the quality of food is exceptional. Expect organic fruit and veg from Riverdale, British cured meat from Cobble Lane Cured and beautifully made tortellini to eat hot or take home from La Tua Pasta. Woodford & Warner’s sorrel cordials and Arganic’s Moroccan Argan oil should be high on any shopping list.

boroughmarket.org.uk

S AT U R DAYS , 1 0 A M — 4PM , DU KE O F YO RK S Q UA R E , K I N G’S R OA D, SW3

partridges.co.uk

I N A C I T Y T H AT I S H O M E T O OV E R 2 0 AC C R E D I T E D FA R M E R S’ M A R K E T S , LO N D O N I S B R I M M I N G W I T H P L AC E S T O F I N D P H E N O M E N A L LY G O O D P R O D U C E

BROCKLEY MARKET

This low-key produce and street-food market, started by photographer Toby Allen four years ago in a Lewisham schoolyard, is special because not only does it draw in people from all over London, but its local customers return whatever the weather. Worth planning your day around, begin by drinking fairtrade tea from Good & Proper Tea, eat a brunch of Mike and Ollie’s homemade flatbreads, and leave with your bag filled with goodies to cook for supper. Try fresh crab or catch of the day from Sussex fishmongers Veasey & Sons; cheese from Flavours of Spain; shortbread or biscuits from Cinnamon Tree Bakery, and gorgeous craft beers from The Beer Shop London.

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Seafood at Herne Hill Market FAR RIGHT AND BELOW

Macaroons at Kingston Market © Astrid Tontson; Comté at Primrose Hill Market

S ATURDAYS, 10AM—2P M, LEW ISHAM COLLEG E CAR PARK , SE4

brockleymarket.com

MARYLEBONE FARMERS’ MARKET

A great place to begin a Sunday out in food-centric Marylebone, this is a laid-back market and a reliable source of top-notch produce. There are marvellous fruit juices from Chegworth Valley, free-range eggs from Harvest Moon, unfailingly moreish cakes and quiches from Popina Bakery, superior garlic from The Garlic Farm and pots of English kimchi and pickles from Hackney-based Vadasz Deli. Remember to seek out The Urban Cordial Company, whose founder Natasha Steele makes superb cordials using surplus fruit left behind by supermarkets at farms near London. S U NDAYS 10AM—2P M, CRAMER STREET, MARY LEB ONE , W 1U

lfm.org.uk/markets/marylebone/

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HERNE HILL MARKET

This is a charming market that never gets too crowded, meaning you can have proper chats with the producers. It runs from the edge of Brockwell Park (lovely for a stroll afterwards) along a pedestrianised strip that’s home to local bakers and fruit sellers. Aston’s Bakery stall sells super organic pastries, cakes and loaves, while the Syrup Junkie’s homemade British syrups – flavours include ginger, hibiscus and cardamom – are great fun to stir into cocktails back at home. Don’t miss the superb winein-a-bag (yes, you heard right) sold by awardwinning artisan winemakers Andrew and Emma Neilsen of Le Grappin who work with tiny vineyards in Burgundy and Beaujolais. S UNDAYS , 1 0AM —4PM , RAI LTO N R OAD, H E R NE H I L L , S E 2 4

weareccfm.com/locations/herne-hill/

PRIMROSE HILL MARKET

Run by former actor Mike Norledge, this busy community schoolyard market is home to classic, innovative and delicious food made by small-batch producers, great farmers and talented street-food traders. It’s particularly

lovely as there is a robust selection of things – such as Wildes Cheese from Tottenham – made in London too. There is also lovely meat from Pick’s Organic Farm, piles of bright fruit and veg from Ted’s Veg, memorable cheese from the Bath Soft Cheese company and a selection of cured meats – the fennel-scented ones are excellent – from Cannon & Cannon, also regulars at Borough Market. It’s very family-friendly. SAT U R DAYS, 1 0 A M— 3 P M, ST PAU L’S SC H OOL ( E N T RA N C E ON P R IMR OSE H IL L R OA D) , N W3

primrosehillmarket.com

BLOOMSBURY FARMERS’ MARKET

Set inside leafy Torrington Square with a view of Euston Church, this is a pretty option that is hugely popular with local workers who make a point of leaving their desks in order to stroll down during their lunchbreaks for Persian soup and hog-roast sandwiches. With that in mind, it’s worth arriving with an empty bag before midday in order to stock up before the crowds descend. Once you’ve bought venison (pies or fresh meat) from Winterbourne Game, sausages from Flitteriss Park Farm and apple juice from Brambletye Fruit Farm, stick around to eat a sourdough pizza for lunch from Well Kneaded – highly recommended. T H U R SDAYS, 9A M— 2 P M, TOR R IN GTON SQUA R E , BY N G P L AC E ( BE H IN D U LU ) , WC 1 E

lfm.org.uk/markets/bloomsbury/

O N C E YO U ’ V E B O U G H T V E N I S O N ( P I E S O R F R E S H M E AT ) F R O M W I N T E R B O U R N E , S AU S AG E S F R O M F L I T E R E S S PA R K FA R M A N D A P P L E J U I C E F R O M B RA M B L E T Y E F RU I T FA R M , ST I C K A R O U N D T O E AT A S O U R D O U G H P I Z Z A F O R L U N C H

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SCULPTURE IN THE SKY / ONE BLACKFRIARS

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WORDS BY JOSH SIMS

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One Blackfriars sits in the cultural hub of South Bank, just a five-minute walk from London Waterloo

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Timo Sarpaneva’s Lansetti II Vase THIS PAGE, FROM TOP

One Blackfriars interiors, inspired by sculptor Barbara Hepworth; Timo Sarpaneva

‘I knew I wanted it to be a piece of sculpture in the sky. I knew I wanted it to be a very beautiful thing. Something entirely complementary to its context,’ says Ian Simpson of SimpsonHaugh the architects behind the landmark project, One Blackfriars, London. Simpson’s ambition is bold, and it’s a laudable aim, too, to make the building as appealing to those who live and work around it as in it; to build something spectacular, intriguing, multilayered would set a new paradigm for high-rises in the capital, perhaps all the more so given its literal stand-out location, right where the River Thames takes its iconic turn.

O N E B L A C K F R I A R S ’ P E B B L E - S M O O T H S U R F A C E WA S I N S P I R E D B Y T I M O S A R P A N E VA’ S L A N S E T T I I I VA S E , B U T T H O S E B I G G L A S S P A N E L S A R E M O R E T H A N A N A R C H I T E C T F L E X I N G H I S A R T I S T I C M U S C L E : T H E Y ’ R E PA R T O F T H E B U I L D I N G ’ S I N N O VA T I V E , I N D E P E N D E N T D O U B L E - S K I N N E D S T R U C T U R E

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It’s for this reason the architects have ensured that One Blackfriars sits just as happily in its surroundings at ground level – leisure facilities, bars and restaurants help to make it feel part of the plaza on which it stands. It has been a mantra of the company that, low or high, any well-designed building should be able to embed itself successfully into the context it’s in.

It appears more dynamic than the static nature perhaps expected of 5,800 tonnes of steel, cabling and glass, in no small part down to the clever use of various high-tech coatings; those glass panels are graduated across 15 tones, from rich bronzes through to bright platinums. The building doesn’t just reflect the light – it plays with it. One Blackfriars’ smooth surface was inspired by Timo Sarpaneva’s Lansetti II Vase, but those big glass panels are more than an architect flexing his artistic muscle: they’re part of the building’s innovative, independently doubleskinned structure.

This is why, for one, the 50-storey, 170m-tall building is all curves, just like the sketch Simpson – a necessarily patient man in his line of work – first made 15 years ago. Indeed, only two of the building’s 5,467 low-iron glass panels are straight-sided. Each one had to be individually made for its precise position. Collectively they add up to an almost tactile curvaceousness that allows the building to seemingly shape-shift from different angles.

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Y O U R V I S T A S T R E T C H E S S O M E 2 8 M I L E S , O N LY E N H A N C E D B Y T H E WIDESCREEN WINDOWS; IT ’S REAL-LIFE CINEMASCOPE, AND LANDMARKS I N C L U D I N G T H E H O U S E S O F P A R L I A M E N T, S T P A U L’ S C A T H E D R A L A N D T H E L O N D O N E Y E A R E T H E S TA R S O F T H E S H O W


It’s a hugely complex, pioneering formation that means each of its 274 apartments have a sliding door onto a ‘sky garden’ – an enclosed balcony within the glass exterior. Of course, they also allow a lot of light into each apartment while offering panoramic views. From the top floor on a clear day your vista stretches some 28 miles, only enhanced by the widescreen windows; it’s real-life CinemaScope, and landmarks including the Houses of Parliament, St Paul’s Cathedral and the London Eye are the stars of the show. Life is just like in the movies with impressive on-site amenities, including 24-hour Harrods Estates concierge, valet parking and a 32ndfloor viewing lounge for taking in the skyline. That’s not to mention the luxurious leisure facilities, including spa, pool and gym.

Being a masterpiece both inside and out, it sits at ease in its cultural and artistic surroundings – London’s South Bank is rich with world-class galleries, theatres, museums, markets and festivals – and all just five minutes’ walk from London Waterloo and a quick half-an-hour hop away from the City or Knightsbridge. One Blackfriars is an image of London’s creative individuality, rendered both in its physical reflection and in the innovation of its design, making it not only a valuable contribution to South Bank’s transformation, but also an addition to the skyline that is cherished by Londoners far and wide.

ONE BLACKFRIARS SALES & MARKETING SUITE

1–16 Blackfriars Road, London SE1 9UF [email protected] +44(0)20 3051 7526 oneblackfriars.co.uk


The exterior is not the only aspect of One Blackfriars created with art in mind; the interiors, by Tara Bernerd & Partners, also have a sculptural quality. The interior inspirations came from the work of Modernist sculptor Barbara Hepworth,

as well as painters Thomas Gainsborough and JMW Turner; even the bespoke door handles are as close to little works of art as something so functional can get. And, much like the building itself, these interiors are decadent and modern, but tastefully so, using plenty of textural materials, including Atlantic lavastone and Italian marble.

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BLADE & BRISTLE / MEN’S GROOMING


BRISTLE M E N , D O YO U K N O W YO U R B A L M F R O M YO U R M A S K , YO U R T H R E A D I N G F R O M YO U R L A S E R ? T H E B E A U T Y I N D U S T R Y A N D I T S S A LO N S A R E R E A DY TO E M B R AC E YO U L I K E N E V E R B E F O R E OPPOSITE PAGE

The Pankhurst shaving brush – a wet-shave essential W O R D S B Y A DA M J A C O T D E B O I N O D

The male grooming business is booming. Last year saw a 300 per cent growth in sales of men’s beauty and grooming products, and London is at the forefront of this flourishing industry, with salons offering everything from traditional wet shaves to the less conventional ‘beard kit’ and more besides. Save yourself from unnecessary nicks with this pick of London’s best grooming establishments and barbers.

ALFRED DUNHILL

Situated in an historic Georgian Mayfair mansion, once home to the Duke of Westminster, The Barber at Alfred Dunhill offers a classically furnished salon with three leather chairs on a tiled floor, all set within a masculine environment boasting solid oak fittings and artfully-placed books. But it is neither austere nor buttoned-up. Treatments include classic ‘cut-throat’ wet shaves (with a hot-towel massage) and haircuts, with restyling options and a beard design consultation. You can opt for a skin IQ facial, hand and nail grooming or a ‘father and son’ package; they even offer a groom, best man and usher experience. dunhill.com

JOE AND CO.

Joe and Co.’s Joe Mills is very much a hairdresser to the stars, with the likes of James Bay, Martin Freeman, Dermot O’Leary and Rob Brydon among his star-studded clientele. Joe offers ‘proper men’s grooming’ with strong attention to detail and he doesn’t stop at surface-level facial hair – ear and nose waxing are also on the menu. When it comes to the all-important beard care, there are three levels of service: a 15-minute ‘Express Beard Tidy’ for the time-poor, a ‘Beard Shape, Cleanse and Condition’ for those in need of some TLC, and a ‘Luxury Beard Shape, Line Out, Cleanse and Condition’ if you’re after the full works. There is of course, the ‘Wet Shave’ for the more traditional gentleman. joeandco.net

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THE REFINERY

Directly opposite Claridge’s, with a second salon opposite Harrods, The Refinery is more than just a barber, it’s a full spa, flooded with natural light from high-ceilinged windows. If you’re after a shave, ask for Artistic Director Parsa Rad, considered the best wet-shave barber in Britain. The treatment list is long; take your pick from colouring, facials, microdermabrasion, laser hair removal, waxing, clipping and threading, massage, reflexology, body scrubs, thread vein removal and more. Also available is The Refinery’s range of grooming products, which promises to keep men looking at the top of their game. the-refinery.com

GENTLEMEN’S TONIC

Gentlemen’s Tonic first opened in Mayfair and now boasts establishments worldwide. Looking to be ‘the perfect antidote to the rigours and stresses of the outside world’, it offers a successful blend of traditional barbershop features (restored wood panelling and leather seats) and pure pampering; you even get a private booth complete with a flat-screen TV, a complimentary drink and one-to-one service. Founded by ex-banker Olivier Bonnefoy, Gentlemen’s Tonic brings traditional barbering into the modern day, creating a truly luxurious experience. gentlemenstonic.com

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OPPOSITE PAGE

In the driving seat: bespoke Bentley chairs at Pankhurst BELOW

Eclectic details at Alfred Dunhill

PANKHURST

I T F E E L S L I K E A N E X C L U S I V E P R I VA T E C L U B , U N S U R P R I S I N G W H E N I T S ‘ G R O O M R O O M ’ WA S D E S I G N E D B Y S O H O H O U S E , B U T T H E G O O D N E W S I S T H A T H E R E , Y O U R N A M E I S A L W AY S O N T H E G U E S T L I S T

NEVILLE

Owned by Soho House, within the Barber & Parlour destination shop in Shoreditch, the Neville Barber offers a 45-minute wet shave consisting of a moisturising face massage and hot towel, followed by a ‘cut-throat’ razor shave and a dousing of its Tobacco Musk Cologne. Neville’s product range is extensive, from beard kits and grooming products to moisturisers and eye creams, all focusing on the finest, natural ingredients to soothe and calm. barberandparlour.com/neville-barber

Pankhurst Barbershop just off Carnaby Street in Soho offers a strong masculine vibe with bespoke leather Bentley ‘barber’ chairs, hand-upholstered at Bentley’s headquarters in Crewe. On the grooming menu there are ‘classic’ and ‘deluxe’ cut-throat wet shaves, all dabbed down with a hot-towel face massage, plus a ‘friction scalp massage’ for added relaxation. Do you need expert guidance with your shave? Learn from the pros in just two hours on Pankhurst’s Personal Shaving Course. pankhurstlondon.com/the-barbershop

JOSH WOOD ATELIER

You won’t find a wet shave here, but what Josh Wood Atelier in Notting Hill does offer is innovation of the highest order and a team of cutting-edge creative stylists fit for a catwalk. It feels like an exclusive private club, unsurprising when its ‘Groom Room’ was designed by Soho House, but the good news is that here, your name is always on the guestlist. This beauty powerhouse offers Sisley skincare treatments and trichology services from Hair Medica 2122 on top of the usual host of colour and styling options. But despite this fairly conventional menu, it prides itself on its ‘anti-salon’ ethic. The best bits of this include freshly produced dishes and smoothies made to order from its very own kitchen, a concierge service and even personalised iPad playlists. joshwoodcolour.com

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W I T H C R O S S R A I L S E T TO T R A N S F O R M T H E L I V E S O F M A N Y LO N D O N E R S , F A S T E R , I M P R O V E D T R A N S P O R T L I N K S A R E J U S T PA R T O F T H E S T O R Y D R I V I N G T H I N G S F O R WA R D I N A P O P U L A R A N D L I V E LY A R E A O F W E S T LO N D O N

T H AT EALING F E E L I NG

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The bar at Charlotte’s W5

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Craft coffee shops are popping up left, right and centre in Ealing; Harris + Hoole, Café Zee, the Electric Coffee Company and a new branch of Artisan Coffee on New Broadway are just the latest among the sure-fire indicators that the area is on the up and business is booming.

sustainability and good value have always been to the fore and it’s apparent that in this regard the pleasantly informal Charlotte’s W5 is following a similar path.

On top of this, in what is increasingly being referred to as Ealing’s ‘foodie strip’ there are many enticing new arrivals. These include several well-known names such as Carluccio’s, Limeyard (from the same people who brought us Soho stalwart Grillshack), the minimalist Hare & Tortoise, and the soon-to-open artisan bakery Gail’s – although this has long been an area with some old local favourites too. Blue Ocean on Pitshanger Lane, for example, has been serving some of London’s best fish and chips since the 1980s and for almost as long, Charlotte’s Place, in its lovely traditional Victorian premises on Ealing Common, has been central to the fine dining experience on this side of London.

Here too, a heritage building is key to the venture’s success – a large and delightful converted Victorian stable block. With beautiful sand-coloured brickwork inside and out, a generous marble-topped bar, elegant feature windows and a stylish post-industrial ambience, it offers customers a rare sense of place.

Set to increase passenger numbers by 36 per cent, the imminent arrival of Crossrail can, in part, be credited for this new commercial buzz, but so too must the new Dickens Yard development by St George, which is central to the area’s transition into a hub of retail, culture and gastronomy. There hasn’t been a more exciting time to live here, and Dickens Yard’s combination of heritage buildings and cutting-edge



Serving all day from 8am until midnight, breakfast through to dinner, the outside seating area and a bright conservatory make it a year-round destination as well as underlining its friendly, relaxed nature. Genuinely, no-one minds if you sit around tapping away at your laptop; Alex is insistent that he wanted to create a ‘local hub, not just a restaurant’.

I T S E E M S T H AT E V E R Y W H E R E YO U L O O K I N C E N T R A L E A L I N G , N E W L I F E I S B E I N G B R E AT H E D I N T O T H I S B U S Y S U B U R B It’s as considerate to guests’ technological needs, with free Wi-Fi and powerpoints at every table, as it is to dietary requirements with separate dairy and gluten-free menus available.

One such restaurant is Charlotte’s W5, part of the Charlotte’s Group, which is now expanding further into Ealing – unsurprisingly perhaps, as this is where its energetic chef-patron Alex Wrethman grew up. With Charlotte’s W5 in the heart of the thriving new Dickens Yard development, the 36-year-old’s latest venture has an eclectic wine list – and what The Londonist insists are ‘Ealing’s best cocktails’ – while the outstanding menu usefully offers many of the dishes in three distinct portion sizes: taster, small and large.

His own neighbourhood is one Alex knows well, of course, and the hospitality business has been his preoccupation for more than 20 years. Wishing to build something personal, innovative and genuinely special – an airy, creative, social and networking hub – bringing the derelict stable block back to life was the perfect starting point.

Over decades, the original Charlotte’s Place built its reputation on monthly menus featuring diverse and considered dishes based on local and seasonal ingredients. Quality, imagination, provenance,

The menu is dynamic, dishes change frequently, and there’s a definite sense they want to encourage you to explore. Octopus carpaccio, guinea fowl with spätzle (a kind of soft egg noodle from Switzerland) pork belly and cheek fritters – this isn’t the kind of food for someone set in his ways. That said, even if you choose something more familiar, how wonderful to be able to pick a large dish or several small ones, depending on the time of day or how you feel. With Ealing in transition, it’s what everyone wants: the perfect local place to meet.

DICKENS YARD MARKETING SUITE AND SHOW APARTMENT

The Old Fire Station, Longfield Avenue, Ealing, London W5 2UQ [email protected] +44 (0)20 3740 2943 dickens-yard.co.uk

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design provides a suitably stylish base. Step outside your home and its pedestrianised boulevard is swathed with the shops and restaurants that have benefited the area as much as the increased footfall has benefited their prospering businesses.

Dickens Yard, Ealing’s new residential and retail hub; the bar at Limeyard; Charlotte’s Place, Ealing; beautiful green space at Ealing’s Walpole Park; the iconic Ealing Film Studios; confit sea bream at Charlotte’s Place

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FILMWORKS / EALING STUDIOS



THE HEART AND SOUL OF THE BRITISH FILM I N D U S T R Y F O R M O R E T H A N A C E N T U R Y, E A L I N G S T U D I O S S U R V I V E D T W O W O R L D WA R S A N D T H E O N S E T O F ‘ TA L K I E S ’ T O B E C O M E A V I TA L PA R T O F T H E C O U N T R Y ’ S C U LT U R A L L E G A C Y


Its size makes it easy to underestimate the significance of the British film industry, but you do so at your peril. It may be dwarfed by Hollywood (and Bollywood) but Ealing and Pinewood have always boxed well above their weight, thanks to the quality of British directors and screenwriters, actors and technicians. Names like The Titfield Thunderbolt and Passport to Pimlico still raise a smile even among those who can scarcely remember the actual plots. Most of us can name our favourite Ealing comedy from a list that includes Kind Hearts and Coronets, The Lavender Hill Mob, The Ladykillers and The Man in the White Suit.

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Filmworks will incorporate an eight-screen Picturehouse cinema, shops, cafés and restaurants

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The list is long, not least because Ealing Studios is the oldest continuously working studio film production facility anywhere in the world. With a history stretching back to 1902 and an energetic entrepreneur called Will Barker, its output over that time has been nothing short of remarkable, and indeed it still is, with the likes of Shaun of the Dead and The Imitation Game, and music videos for bands such as Coldplay and Blur, not to mention countless interior scenes for Downton Abbey occupying its historic, Grade II-listed sound stages. For 50 years, Ealing was owned and run by the BBC when its credits included such television classics as Colditz and Dr Who. But Ealing’s fame is largely thanks to its days as an independent film studio, with the key players being producer and director Basil Dean in the 1930s and his replacement Sir Michael Balcon in the immediate post-war period.

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A film poster for The Man in the White Suit (1951); behind the scenes at Ealing Studios; Downton Abbey, shot at Ealing Studios

CA L L E D F I L M WO R K S , T H I S E XC I T I N G DEVELOPMENT INCLUDES A NEW S T A T E - O F -T H E - A R T E I G H T- S C R E E N PICTUREHOUSE CINEMA, AS WELL A S S PAC E F O R S H O P S , C A F É S A N D R E S TA U R A N T S

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Between them, the duo produced something approaching 200 films, many of which were sure-fire box-office heroes at the time, and are still regarded as absolute classics today. Unsurprisingly, the studios made stars of many of the performers, including Peter Sellers, Alec Guinness and Joan Greenwood (Humphrey Bogart even had an uncredited walk-on part in one of them). They put the name Ealing on the map – even though many cineastes would have struggled to find it had they ventured out to the suburbs of west London – while delighting millions of filmgoers around the globe. Yet bizarrely, for a place so firmly woven into the fabric of film history, Ealing itself has lacked a cinema for several years. Happily, all that is due to change very shortly with an imaginative new development, which is rapidly taking shape in this popular and, with Crossrail coming soon, increasingly lively part of the capital. Called Filmworks, this exciting development includes a new state-of-the-art eight-screen Picturehouse cinema, as well as space for shops, cafés and restaurants. Helping to boost the local economy and preserving the Art Deco façade of the old Empire Cinema, it will also provide much-needed new accommodation and incorporate attractive new public spaces and improved pedestrian links.

FILMWORKS FORTHCOMING RELEASE OF 1, 2 AND 3 BEDROOM HOMES

+44 (0)20 3797 1812

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MASTER STROKE / FULHAM REACH


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WORDS BY RUFUS SCHOLEFIELD

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Fulham Reach Boat Club on the water at sunset

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Fulham Reach Boat Club was established in September 2014, created as part of an agreement between St George and the Borough of Hammersmith & Fulham. St George provided a £3 million grant as part of a community commitment alongside its Fulham Reach development. This money was used to create Fulham Reach Boat Club, a club with a simple mission statement: ‘To create a sustainable and successful rowing club in all Hammersmith & Fulham state schools by 2021 and demonstrate the improvements in physiology, behaviour, social skills and academic results through participation’. Essentially, Fulham Reach Boat Club is designed to allow children, who have no other way of accessing the sport, to try rowing. However, that is not the club’s only achievement.

If an image were to be produced that encapsulated sport in Fulham, it would probably include the white jerseys of the Fulham FC team playing the beautiful game at Craven Cottage, their stadium sitting as it does on the banks of the Thames.

Fulham Reach Boat Club is now very competitive on the domestic rowing circuit, making it through to the quarter finals of the Thames Challenge Cup at the prestigious Henley Royal Regatta in 2016.

Riverside living comes into its own here and the award-winning Fulham Reach development has been thoughtfully designed to cater for residents’ sporty tendencies. There’s a fully equipped gymnasium, a state-of-the art virtual golf simulator and a snooker room, as well as a treatment room, wine cellar and screening room for post-workout relaxation. Set in landscaped gardens that hug this dramatic corner of the Thames, the views up and down the river and the sweeping promenade make the development’s 744 new homes perfect for those who love the outdoors. Of all Fulham’s sports, rowing is surely the most distinctive. The Thames circles around Fulham, bringing the excitement of The Boat Races between the Oxford and Cambridge clubs each year. Supporters gather five deep on Hammersmith Bridge and on the north bank of the river under the lights of Craven Cottage to see the light- and dark-blues race past. However, it is fair to say the south bank of the river commands more attention within rowing circles. Putney Embankment is, without a doubt, Britain’s Boathouse Row. Nine rowing clubs, including Thames, London, Imperial College and Westminster School, jostle for room on the crowded 500-metre stretch. These historic clubs overlook the University Boat Race Stone, set into the embankment of the river, that marks the starting line for The Boat Race. Putney has a rowing history that dates to 1856; can the north bank and Fulham Reach Boat Club compete? As of 2014, it can.

Fulham Reach Boat Club will offer students at state schools an opportunity to try rowing as part of the sports curriculum. In the first year of the programme, 400 students from the Hammersmith Academy, Chelsea Academy, Lady Margaret School and Ark Burlington Danes Academy were the beneficiaries and it shows no signs of slowing down. The numbers are confirmed for 2017, with over 1,000 students from seven local schools taking part. Club CEO Steve O’Connor is certainly correct in his belief: ‘This Boat Club creates an opportunity like no other to increase the participation levels within rowing. With a new fleet, professional coaching team and outstanding facilities we have created every opportunity to uncover the Olympic stars of the future.’


The sporting heritage of Fulham is focused around football. However, it is a borough divided. Blue or White. Chelsea or Fulham. The rivalry between the local clubs does not split the area with the anger and animosity you might find in Merseyside or Tyneside. It is gracious and respectful. Sport in Fulham is played for pleasure rather than becoming all consuming. Other notable attractions, the Hurlingham Club and The Queen’s Club, contribute to this image. Polo and tennis. Hardly the gritty boxing heritage of the East End of London. Fulham commands a refined aura.

Dame Katherine Grainger DBE exclaimed, while officially opening the club, ‘This is the nicest boat club I’ve ever been to; it’s so smart! It’s the most amazing thing to bring rowing into the community and it is wonderful that Fulham Reach Boat Club is putting such an emphasis on teaching youngsters who go to school so near the river but haven’t had the chance to row’.

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Fulham at dusk; Dame Katherine Grainger DBE at Fulham Reach Boat Club; views of the river from the Fulham Reach development OPPOSITE

Rowing boats at Fulham Reach Boat Club

FULHAM REACH SHOW APARTMENTS & MARKETING SUITE

Distillery Wharf, London W6 9GD [email protected] +44 (0)20 3627 1945 fulhamreach.co.uk

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ART & SOUL / SCULPTURE

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Working in wood, metal, stone, or whatever takes their fancy, the countless artists responsible for creating London’s burgeoning collection of public art include forgotten names as well as legendary ones such as Paolozzi, Rodin, Moore and Kapoor. From heroic figures – meaning Nelson Mandela as well as his naval namesake – to the most challenging abstractions, their variety and range makes it almost impossible not to find something you like as you wander through this great outdoor gallery.

E GY PT I A N G O D D E S S M O R E THAN 3,000 YEARS OLD T O T H E L AT E S T W O R K O N T R A FA LG A R S Q UA R E ’S F O U RT H P L I N T H , LO N D O N ’S STREETS AND SQUARES B OA ST M O R E P U B L I C A RT THAN MANY WORLDFA M O U S GA L L E R I E S

BY A FAMOUS ARTIST (left) A characteristically enigmatic work by Sir Anthony Gormley, Quantum Cloud occupies a site close to the O2, and at 30 metres is even taller than his Angel of the North. Like an exploding steel lattice, at first glance it seems remote from his celebrated human figures until one spies, buried deep within its chaos of steel spars, a figure of a man emerging. The work is clever and enormously complex. Inspired by University of London physicist Basil Hiley, its hundreds of components are arranged not at random but according to a sophisticated computer algorithm.

W O R D S B Y H U G H L AV E R

MOST STRIKING (far left) If Gormley’s riverside giant confounds, Nic Fiddian-Green positively delights visitors to Marble Arch with his Still Water. The head of a gigantic horse stooping to drink, he found his inspiration on a student visit to the British Museum’s Elgin Marbles. He was particularly taken with the head of the horse of the Greek goddess Selene, although his own tribute is wonderfully contemporary. In 2012, the Old Etonian hit the headlines when he was photographed using a mechanical cherrypicker to clean the sculpture’s grim but inevitable accumulation of pigeon droppings.

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FOR HISTORY BUFFS (right) Fiddian-Green’s sculpture is large but by no means London’s largest. A contender for that title is the Wellington Arch Quadriga at Hyde Park Corner, a figure of Peace drawn by four magnificent horses. These replaced a huge and rather unpopular statue of the Iron Duke, which was removed to an army camp in Aldershot following His Grace’s death. (Queen Victoria was concerned not to offend the great man by agreeing to the move earlier.) Its replacement is also big – so big that in 1912 sculptor Adrian Jones entertained seven friends to a banquet inside his monumental bronze.

MOST ICONIC (far right, above)

THE NEWEST (right)

Tourists are forbidden to climb on the lions at the base of Nelson’s Column. They do it anyway, in droves, but how many stop to think about what the artist went through while completing his commission? Edwin Landseer somehow obtained the corpse of a lion to use as his model, but the work took so long it began to fester. Undeterred, he modelled the paws on those of a friend’s cat, following the example of Handel’s effigy at Westminster Abbey. Here, in 1761, objecting to the size of the composer’s ears, Louis-François Roubiliac chose to copy a smaller pair belonging to a young girl.

The capital’s oldest outdoor statue sits above Sotheby’s entrance in New Bond Street and is an austere black basalt bust of the Egyptian lion-goddess, dating to around 1,320 BC. One of its newest is the 45,000-kilo bronze ‘thumbs up’ gesture standing more than seven metres tall on Trafalgar Square’s Fourth Plinth, titled Really Good. Created by David Shrigley, it contrasts strongly with the square’s other residents, who are largely figures from Britain’s military and imperial past. The contrast is clearly intentional, as is the changing nature of this particular display; Shrigley is the eleventh artist to be featured here since 1999, in an initiative that has recast the square as so much more than just a pantheon to the great and the good. All images courtesy of David Harrison

MOST PHOTOGRAPHED (far right)

It’s impossible to say with any certainty, but Allies by Lawrence Holofcener must be in the running. A lively study of Churchill and Franklin D. Roosevelt chatting on a bench in Bond Street, it was unveiled by HRH Princess Margaret in 1995 to mark 50 years since the war’s end. The artist’s masterstroke was to leave space between the two friends for passers-by to sit down. Thousands do so every year – Britons, Americans and others – apparently unable to resist the chance for an unusual selfie accompanied by these two 20th-century giants.

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bringing its interiors to life. Having completed projects on nearby Ebury Square and Kensington High Street, the company had demonstrated its innate understanding of the area, combined with more than 30 years of design experience.

Chelsea: home of the King’s Road, of punk, of Vivienne Westwood’s first-ever boutique, and, of course, some of the most elegant houses in the capital. Previously London’s bohemian quarter, frequented by artists, radicals and poets (a blue plaque on Tite Street marks Oscar Wilde’s house), Chelsea has always been overflowing with colourful characters. In the 19th century, the area around Cheyne Walk was largely an artists’ colony, and in 1895 the now-named Chelsea College of Art and Design was established, remaining to this day one of Europe’s most prestigious Arts colleges, with Anish Kapoor, Steve McQueen and Haroon Mirza among its alumni. During the ’60s and ’70s, the treelined neighbourhood was home to The Beatles, The Rolling Stones and the Sex Pistols, and, at the height of her fame, Twiggy launched a whole generation of stylish Chelsea girls. Today, gentrified Chelsea is a more refined enclave populated by investment bankers, architects, fashionistas and film stars who are enchanted by the neoclassical buildings, contemporary art galleries, designer labels and farmers’ markets. In a borough where beauty is currency, it’s no surprise that this is where some of the UK’s most esteemed interior designers have emerged: Tricia Guild (of Designers Guild), Nicky Haslam, Kelly Hoppen, Nina Campbell and Todhunter Earle to name a few. There’s no separating the godfather of furniture design Sir Terence Conran from the area either, with his iconic furniture store Habitat opposite Chelsea Town Hall, plus his iconic restaurants Bibendum and Bluebird.

As a starting point, the team made multiple visits to Design Centre, Chelsea Harbour – where 120 showrooms meet with 600 of the world’s most prestigious luxury brands – to gather inspiration and source the latest fabrics. With generous ceiling heights of nearly 10 ft, and full-size windows to match, Lucarna maximised this abundant light by reflecting it in natural surface materials – such as granite, marble and sandstone – accented by shiny Gaggenau appliances in the fully integrated, bespoke European fitted kitchen. Lucarna’s overall aesthetic is ‘contemporary classic’, with thick velvets and deep buttoning creating a sense of grandeur, offset by metallic bronze accents, cool marbles and a variety of wood finishes including walnut burl. ‘We’ve run with the current trend for neutral colours, highly textured surfaces and natural materials,’ explains Design Director Heidi Aiad, ‘but we’ve added an extra layer of luxury and tranquillity inspired by the shimmering waterways of the canals running through Chelsea Creek. Our aim was to create magnificent light-filled spaces that stimulate the senses’. This has definitely been achieved. Varying textures in each room create cleverly contrasting interior landscapes. For example, the main living area has a formal feel, whereas a circular seating area incorporates woven mohair for a softer, more homely feel. In contrast, the bedrooms feature an abundance of satin, exuding just the right combination of boudoir-chic and glamour. The use of colour is restricted to the finer details, such as the piping on cushions and artwork on the walls. Stand-out features include a sculptural geometric console table with a metal trim running in diagonal lines and a dining room table with whimsical feather panelling. The feeling of light and air continues to flow through into the marblefinished bathroom, lavishly appointed with a Villeroy & Boch bath, WC and basin. Rain showers feature both body jets and a hand shower, while a plethora of other touches, such as demisting mirrors and underfloor heating add an exquisite finish to these rooms.

A stone’s throw from these eye-catching British landmarks lies Chelsea Creek, a collection of gleaming canalside apartments at one of the capital’s smartest addresses, where views stretch far and wide over London.

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Lucarna Design’s fabric samples, photographed by David Harrison THIS PAGE

Chelsea Creek’s Tower Penthouse, where the light and airy interiors reflect the expansive view over London’s skyline

With design traits celebrating not only Chelsea’s rich design past but also its rock ‘n’ roll heritage, St George and Lucarna Design have reinterpreted this canalside lodging with true verve and respect for the local area. The result? A penthouse fit for a rock star.

CHELSEA CREEK MARKETING SUITE

The largest of which is the Tower Penthouse, at 5,447 sq ft in size (not to mention the 3,400 sq ft roof terrace) – a substantial and handsome blank canvas for London-based Lucarna Design, the company tasked with

9 Park Street, London SW6 2FS [email protected] | +44 (0)20 3468 1927 chelseacreek.co.uk

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AROUND THE WORLD BEFORE BRUNCH / FOOD


How do you like your eggs in the morning? Scrambled, poached, fried, ‘with a kiss’... or how about served sunny side up in a crispy pancake bowl that’s doughy in the middle and topped with fiery pol sambol? If there’s one thing that London restaurants excel at it’s reinventing traditional dishes from around the world, so when there is Swedish raggmunk to be had in St James’s, or seared paiche served Peruvianstyle in Fitzrovia, there’s no need to settle for the full English. If the aforementioned pancakes whet your appetite, get to Hoppers on Frith Street for the best example of Sri Lanka’s staple breakfast dish. Traditionally, these bowl-shaped pancakes are made with a fermented batter using rice flour and coconut milk. In the Soho restaurant, they are served all day with fried eggs and a mixture of fresh shredded coconut, chilli and spice. While Britain’s enthusiasm for all things Scandinavian shows no signs of abating, the team behind New York’s two-Michelin-starred Nordic restaurant of same name launched Aquavit last year as part of the regeneration of St James’s market. Swap hash browns for raggmunk – Swedish potato cakes – topped with lingonberries and crispy bacon, or switch up smoked salmon for the smoked eel benedict. Also worth noting is its soon-to-launch Fika menu. Until then, take a cinnamon roll for the road.

Next stop, Peru. And between Ceviche, Pachamama, Andina and Chotto Matte, you’re spoilt for choice. But Virgilio Martinez’s LIMA Floral – by way of Martinez’s original restaurant in Peru’s capital – is best for a fancy spin on the country’s cuisine. Order ceviche or Nikkei-style beef crudo, followed by braised lamb shoulder with potatoes grown at 4,000 metres (a nod to Martinez’s 18-course Mater Elevations tasting menu he offers at Central Restaurante in Peru, showcasing produce sourced from a range of altitudes in the country). Go for weekend brunch – you’ll want to take your time over this one. Back to Europe, more specifically the Basque Country, which has been revisited in London over the last few years with a spate of openings that focus on the region’s no-fuss style, cooking fresh meat and fish directly over a charcoal grill.

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A Peruvian brunch at LIMA Floral

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Eneko’s Traditional Talo

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Sweet caramelised apple at The Good Egg in Stoke Newington

Lurra in Marylebone and Sagardi in Shoreditch are both fairly laid-back, while Eneko Atxa takes a fine-dining approach at Eneko at One Aldwych. It’s no surprise given that his restaurant in Bilbao ranks number 16 in the World’s Top 50 Best Restaurants. Brunch here should start with free-flowing txakoli (Basque wine) and the street-food snacks, starring talo – a corn-flour tortilla – and local sausage cooked in cider, or eggs jazzed up with asparagus, piquillo peppers and potato.

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If Ottolenghi is more your style, there’s The Good Egg in Stoke Newington, which blends Middle-Eastern flavour with New-York attitude. Go for the Iraqi fried aubergine and egg pitta, drizzled with tahini and zhoug – a blend of coriander, green chillies and spices. Sweet tooth? Make it the cornbread drenched with honey or crème-fraîche-topped pumpkin bread with poached quince. If you’re looking to stay central, there’s Honey & Co. on Warren Street, which can’t be beaten for its convivial atmosphere. The city’s international outlook, open attitude and melting pot of cultures have shaped this lively breakfast offering. But the best part? The finest coffee, the city’s most celebrated import, can be enjoyed at all these establishments.

DOCKSIDE FINERY / FASHION


D O C K S I D E F I N E R Y LO N D O N D O C K ’ S P E N N I N G TO N S T R E E T WA R E H O U S E , O N C E U S E D TO S TO R E C A R G O F R O M F A R AW AY L A N D S , H E R E P R O V I D E S A B A C K D R O P F O R A M O D E R N - D AY T R E A S U R E C H E S T O F S U M P T U O U S F I N E FA B R I C S A N D E XQ U I S I T E G E M S TO N E S

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What was once Hendon Aerodrome, the scene of much pioneering activity during the early days of aviation, is now the site of a thriving new community. The area’s aviation heritage is partly what makes Beaufort Park a destination for Londoners craving a breath of fresh air and a dose of British history, but it is its unrivalled location that has them flocking to make it home. Just 22 minutes from King’s Cross on the Underground and with a 24-hour weekend service, it is within easy reach of the City and West End, not to mention the nearby trendy areas of Brent Cross and Hampstead. But that’s only if you ever want to leave. Beaufort Park has its own residents’ gym, pool, spa, dry cleaner, beauty salon and childcare, as well as a fine selection of restaurants, cafés, shops and cultural pursuits, so there’s little need to venture out of this leafy corner of London. The area’s transformation into a residential hub, with a

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plethora of gardens, parks and courtyards to encourage a more relaxed, al fresco lifestyle, has created a real sense of space and place while providing a fascinating contrast with all that has gone before. In the ’20s and ’30s, the site played host to a series of internationally important flying displays, then called the Royal Air Force Tournament. These were annual events that gave tens of thousands of spectators the chance to see the latest military aircraft for the first time. It also meant pilots could demonstrate their daring tricks and topquality flying skills.

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The ‘New Types’ Park ready for the RAF Display, Hendon, 25th June 1932; an advertisement for the Royal Air Force Display, Hendon, 1933 OPPOSITE PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT

The Beaufort Bar and Restaurant at Beaufort Park; landscaped parkland at Beaufort Park; the Sterling Apartments are a beautiful selection of two- and threebedroom homes

These events were enormously popular, as much a part of the London season as the Epsom Derby and Royal Ascot. The money raised was used to support RAF charities while the pilots’ derring-do did much to encourage the public’s interest and to generate real excitement about this incredible new technology. Aviation greats at this time included Grahame-White, De Havilland and Handley Page, with a series of rapid technological advances enabling these and other British manufacturers to lead the world for much of this period. From 1908 to 1968, the aerodrome became known for its key role in several important landmark events including the first airmail flight, the first parachute descent from a powered aircraft, the first night flight, and more chillingly, the first-ever aerial defence of a city (by pilots of the Royal Naval Air Service). Decades earlier (in 1862), the first Hydrogen balloon, piloted by Henry Tracey Coxwell and Dr James Glaisher, ascended from Hendon and by 1906 the Daily Mail was offering a staggering £10,000 prize for the first aviator

who could fly from here to Manchester. Inspired by Blériot’s flight across the English Channel, Claude Grahame-White made two valiant attempts, but in 1910 was beaten by another Frenchman, Louis Paulhan, who made the distance in just over 12 hours. Undeterred, Grahame-White took control of the 200-acre site with its watchtower – this has since been moved to form part of the Royal Air Force Museum a short distance away at Hendon – and created what is now recognised as the first proper airfield. As flying became a more routine activity it looked as though the new aerodrome might become what one observer called ‘the Charing Cross of international air routes’. Among those who kept aircraft at Hendon were the Prince of Wales and the Duke of York. But with the rapid expansion of military activity, civilian and leisure flights were scaled back dramatically, eventually relocating to Croydon and, later still, to Heathrow. Today, the old aerodrome is gone but not forgotten, and as a new story unfolds we still have the Royal Air Force Museum to remind us of the men and women who flew from here, into battle as well as in happier times.

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T O D AY, T H E O L D A E R O D R O M E I S G O N E B U T N O T F O R G O T T E N , A N D A S A N E W S T O R Y U N F O L D S W E S T I L L H AV E T H E R O YA L A I R F O R C E M U S E U M T O R E M I N D U S O F T H E M E N AND WOMEN WHO FLEW FROM HERE

BEAUFORT PARK SHOW APARTMENTS & MARKETING SUITE

16–18 Aerodrome Road, London NW9 5GW [email protected] | +44 (0)20 3411 8738 beaufortpark.co.uk

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Precious by François Chartier at Plus One Gallery

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Part of London’s industrial heartland for longer than any resident can remember, Battersea may be just across the Thames from Chelsea – Battersea’s Victorian park is truly lovely – but the area has always had a harder, grittier edge to it. Located on the River Thames, with excellent transport links to the city centre, Battersea has been ripe for improvement for a while. Now its time has come, and at the heart of this is Battersea Reach, a high-quality residential development where modern convenience is at the fore, with 24-hour concierge services and a superb array of on-site shops, bars and restaurants. The elegant courtyards and walkways that stretch along London’s picturesque historic waterways are enough to get anyone’s creative juices flowing, so it’s little surprise that the area is becoming a magnet for artists and galleries. Some of these have been here for a long time, such as the wonderful Battersea Arts Centre which enjoys a reputation for innovative theatre. Its Grade-II-listed brick and stone building was completed in 1892, originally as a town hall when Battersea was transferred from Surrey to join the then-new County of London. Among more recent arrivals, the Pump House Gallery occupies another 19th-century structure, this one overlooking the lake in Battersea Park. It formed part of a scheme to steam-power the irrigation of the park and its decorative fountains – an imaginative but largely unsuccessful technology, as it turned out. Beautifully restored after a catastrophic fire, for almost 20 years it has run an imaginative programme of contemporary visual arts as well as lively participation and education events involving both local and international artists. Another relative newcomer is the Plus One Gallery, which arrived in Battersea from Pimlico Road and has moved into a spectacular ultra-modern space within the Battersea Reach

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Plus One Gallery, located within the Battersea Reach development OPPOSITE PAGE, FROM LEFT

Study After LC(Mountain) by Craig Wylie at Plus One Gallery; Luga, 2012 by Kittey Malarvie at JGM Gallery, photography © Tony McGee

development on York Road. It is now recognised as one of the leading galleries specialising in hyperrealism, a genre being widely tipped in London and abroad as the next big thing for connoisseurs and investors. Representing such established talents as Ben Johnson, Pedro Campos and Steve Smulka – and in Craig Wylie, Andrew Tift and Philip Harris no fewer than three winners of the prestigious BP Portrait Award – gallery founders Maggie Bollaert and Clive Pettit hold six exhibitions a year. Typically, these include an eclectic mix of still life, portrait, city and landscape works; there are chocolate bars that look good enough to eat, Coke cans that could seemingly be grabbed hold of, and everything from the humble frankfurter to dramatic cinematic scenes of a downtown diner, or a deserted highway. Over on Howie Street, the focus at newly-opened Jennifer Guerrini Maraldi Art (JGM) is similarly sharp, only here the exhibitions are devoted to contemporary Australian Aboriginal culture. Viewed as a reassertion of a people’s identity following centuries of colonial oppression and displacement, painting of this kind has an important communicative function, as well as an astonishingly long history. Embracing the artistic resurgence and vibrancy of this area, Jennifer was able to find the kind of gallery space she wanted all on one level. The area, she says, is one with great charm, lots of young people, and so many new developments. ‘The riverwalk is lovely too, there’s so much going on culturally and I can cycle to the gallery in less than two minutes.’

BATTERSEA REACH SALES & MARKETING SUITE

Juniper Drive, London SW18 1TX [email protected] +44 (0)20 3582 3635 batterseareach.co.uk

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Electrical Muscle Stimulation with E-Pulsive

R E P E T I T I O N I S T H E K E Y TO B O DY T R A N S F O R M AT I O N , B U T I T ’ S A L S O T H E F U E L O F B O R E D O M . F O R LO N D O N E R S LO O K I N G F O R A LT E R N AT I V E W O R K O U T S TO K E E P T H E M M OT I VAT E D, A P L E T H O R A O F I N N OVAT I V E C L A S S E S H A S S P R U N G U P A C R O S S T H E C A P I TA L O F F E R I N G N E W WAY S TO P U N I S H T H E I R B O D I E S

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Heartcore’s Dynamic Pilates classes; boutique boxing at BXR London THIS PAGE

Throwing punches at BXR London

A LT H O U G H T H E S T U D I O S L O O K , F E E L A N D S O U N D L I K E N I G H T C L U B S , YO U ’ L L B E T H R O W I N G P U N C H E S R AT H E R THAN SHAPES

City fitness sometimes requires a degree of creativity and, thankfully, Londoners have got buckets of the stuff. From performing downwardfacing dog suspended by luxurious lengths of silk to high-tech Electrical Muscle Stimulation, we’ve sussed out the best alternative fitness spots in the city – and there’s no treadmill in sight.

BXR LONDON

The latest addition to London’s burgeoning fitness scene is BXR, located on the achingly cool Chiltern Street in Marylebone. As the name suggests, BXR is a boxing-themed boutique gym that has been beautifully conceived. If the thought of a classic boxing gym was intimidating, BXR’s sumptuous interior will take the fear factor away. Although you’ll be mixing with boxing and Mixed Martial Arts (MMA) pros, BXR caters for all abilities across a number of different combat disciplines. Look out for the reputedly brutal Sweat by BXR classes. bxrlondon.com

E-PULSIVE

Time is an expensive commodity for high-flying professionals, so for those flat-out periods in your life when a trip to the gym simply won’t fit into your schedule, bring the workout to your office. E-Pulsive uses Electrical Muscle Stimulation (EMS) to rapidly and intensively engage up to 98 per cent of your muscles. A 20-minute EMS workout equates to a 90-minute conventional workout and can burn around 500 calories. e-pulsive.co.uk

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CHEL-SKI

Tucked away behind the King’s Road, Chel-ski is where the mountains meet the metropolis. Featuring three highly customisable slopes (revolving astroturf mats), Chel-ski offers all levels of ski and snowboard coaching by fully qualified instructors. Sessions last an hour and will typically burn around 400 calories. Unfortunately, there’s no glass of Glühwein and a plateful of raclette to inhale after the session, but probably just as well. chel-ski.uk

RUMBLE AT 1REBEL

1Rebel in the City of London has been making waves in the capital’s fitness scene for its unique take on high-intensity interval training (HIIT). Although the studios look, feel and sound like nightclubs, you’ll be throwing punches rather than shapes at its Rumble class, a 45-minute boxing-based heavybag frenzy that will have you pushing the boundaries of your VO2 max. 1rebel.co.uk

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Aerial Yoga at KX

REFORMER PILATES AT HEARTCORE

AERIAL YOGA AT KX

With nine studios dotted around London, you’ve no excuse not to try out Heartcore’s Dynamic Pilates classes. Using custom-built machines, these 55-minute sessions rarely let up, providing you with maximum time under tension and rapid full-body results. Don’t be daunted by the machines if you’ve never used them before; a quick five-minute run-through is all you need to get accustomed. heartcore.co.uk

Chelsea’s KX (pronounced ‘Kicks’) has been the go-to emporium of fitness for London’s A-listers ever since it opened in 2002. That it’s still going strong is testament to the facilities, trainers and classes there. Recently, they’ve added 1-2-1 Aerial Yoga sessions for those who don’t like to be too grounded. As fun as it looks being suspended from silks, Aerial Yoga is seriously challenging, especially for your core, as it forces you to hold your body weight in extremely unstable positions. kxlife.co.uk

VELOCITY AT CORE COLLECTIVE

Fat-burning doesn’t get more intense than the Velocity class at Core Collective in Kensington. The 45-minute session consists of timed intervals at a variety of stations, incorporating full-body functional movements using a combination of body weight and resistance. With short rest periods to slow your breathing, expect to hit your maximum heart rate well before the session’s over. core-collective.co.uk

FLOATFIT® HIIT BY AQUAPHYSICAL

Another yoga hybrid, only this time on water, FloatFit® is a 30-minute HIIT workout conducted on floating platforms (called an aquabase®) in a pool. If you thought burpees were hard enough on solid ground, try them on water. Maintaining your balance during full-body exercises is deceptively tough. Classes are available at Haymarket Hotel and the London Aquatics Centre. aquaphysical.com

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WHAT BROUGHT YOU

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When I’m on my own I go to a place called Street Eats, which I love because the food is made there and then on the premises. They have street food from around the world, with regulars who go there all the time – it’s a lovely, friendly place. There’s a food market in Hammersmith too, on a Thursday lunchtime just by Sovereign Court – it’s a very buzzy spot. For dinner, The Gate and The River Café are local favourites.

I lived in Shepherd’s Bush with my wife, but we decided that we wanted to have children and thought Hammersmith would be a great place to bring them up, because of the family-friendly atmosphere and the excellent education opportunities. I live in Brackenbury Village, a part of Hammersmith that is very pretty – it’s got a lovely ‘villagey’ feel to it. There’s a couple of really nice schools around the area; my kids go to a great little school called John Betts. HOW LONG HAVE YOU LIVED IN HAMMERSMITH?

Since 2011; we moved in just before my daughter was born. WHAT MADE YOU STAY?

J A M E S WA L L M A N

Green space, good food and a friendly atmosphere are crucial for happy hometown experiences according to James Wallman, who thinks Hammersmith fits the bill perfectly. In his book Stuffocation, James looks in great depth at the correlation between happiness and experience, making him well placed to determine what it is exactly that makes the Thameside district such an attractive place to set up home. After all, when you’ve got a beautiful river, a lovely park, great schools and striking architecture to enjoy, who needs to be suffocated by ‘stuff’? Enjoying this superb location, Sovereign Court is only a short hop across Hammersmith Bridge to Barnes, and is well-placed for access to airports and major motorways. The development offers sophistication and space within a broad range of apartments, all a stone’s throw from restaurants, shops and connections to central London.

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James Wallman – an experientialist, futurist, author and very happy Hammersmith resident OPPOSITE PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP

Pretty architecture along the Thames at Hammersmith; the terrace and tortillas at The River Café

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It’s a relaxed place to live. The river’s awesome; once you cross the A4 it’s beautiful down there. I work for myself, so when I’m not working in east London, sometimes I go and work down there. When it’s really misty on the river, it feels like you could be anywhere – certainly a long way from London. On a sunny day you get the most amazing sunset behind the bridge, which is one of the prettiest bridges in London. There’s also a nice scattering of gardens to relax in. HOW DO THE TRAVEL CONNECTIONS IMPROVE LIFE?

The Hammersmith & City line takes me straight to the Google co-working space that I work at. The District line also takes me straight to Westminster or Victoria, and the Piccadilly line to Holborn, so it’s really easy to get around. I always get a seat because it’s at end of the line, so I can work when I’m on the tube. If you want to get out of the city quickly, the A4 is very convenient. Kew Gardens isn’t far away, which is nice, and we have friends in Notting Hill, which is easy to get to.

THE BEST PUBS?

My favourite local pub is the one that’s 50 yards from my front door, The Thatched House. My father used to go there in the ’60s so it’s been there for a good while and various members of my family now frequent the pub too. It’s a nice open pub, good for families and it’s friendly – it’s a relaxing place to be. It’s a particular favourite but there are other nice pubs as well, like The Carpenter’s Arms, The Blue Anchor, The Crabtree, The Dartmouth Castle and The Stonemasons Arms.

and thought-out space. The Lyric Theatre is nice as well, which is right in the centre. I took my daughter to see Fantastic Mr Fox, which she loved.

DESCRIBE THE ATMOSPHERE IN HAMMERSMITH

BEST HIDDEN GEM IN

It’s a genuinely friendly place; I think that’s what stands out most, and there’s a very nice community feel. A walk from my house to the local coffee shop close by can take 20 minutes because I bump into so many people along the way. We’re blessed with great food and great people; I’ve never lived anywhere quite so friendly.

THE AREA?

WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE THING TO DO IN HAMMERSMITH?

I like to hang out with my kids in Ravenscourt Park, which is a really nice little park. They have fireworks there every November and it’s a great space for the kids to play – it’s a well-put-together

There’s a proper French bakery called Patisserie Sainte-Anne. It’s run by a couple from Paris; he’s French and she’s originally Japanese, and when you eat there it’s like being in Paris. Everything they do is awesome; the pain au chocolat and croissants are the best. They do some Japanesestyle things as well, like matcha macarons. It’s obviously been incredibly successful because it’s always packed. That’s a joyous thing to have here.

Hammersmith has a mix of really interesting buildings – it’s a classic London blend of old and new. If you go down to the river you’ll see beautiful architecture, such as Kelmscott House which was once William Morris’s house. In the area I live it’s all late 19th-century architecture – very cute. But juxtaposed with the old, you’ve got the clean, modern lines of new buildings such as Sovereign Court too. WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE TIME OF YEAR?

Halloween – it’s nuts and wonderfully embraced here. People come out on the street with dry-ice machines and hang up banners. It feels like a festival, really great fun.

PRETTIEST ARCHITECTURE

WHERE DO YOU GO TO

IN HAMMERSMITH?

GET INSPIRED?

At ground level it’s nothing to write home about, but if you look up, it’s fascinating, there’s some amazing Art Deco for instance.

I walked around the park maybe 10 times once, when I was writing my book. The river’s amazing for inspiration as well, but the park’s the spot for me when it comes to thinking.

YOUR BOOK IS ABOUT THE

DO YOU SEE YOURSELF

RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN

STAYING IN HAMMERSMITH

EXPERIENCES AND HAPPINESS.

IN THE LONG TERM?

WHICH EXPERIENCES

If I stay in London, then yes, I’ll stay here.

FROM AROUND YOUR NEIGHBOURHOOD DO YOU TREASURE THE MOST?

There’s a swing in the local park that my daughter loves to go on – it’s a big swing that she can lie on which she loves. That resonates for me more than anything else, that, or down by the river having a drink with one of my best friends, who lives locally, and watching the sun going down. WHAT SHOULD PEOPLE LOOK FOR IN A HOMETOWN?

The number of experiences and the diversity of experiences available to you in that area I think should come tops. Green space is really important; if you spend time in parks you’ll feel happier. Parks are essential – always live near a park.

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SOVEREIGN COURT MARKETING SUITE

Glenthorne Road, Hammersmith, London W6 0LJ [email protected] +44 (0)20 3740 2916 sovereign-court.com

F I T F O R A K I N G / R O YA L E X C H A N G E K I N G S T O N


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The Old Town Hall at Kingston Market Place. Image courtesy of Kerry Campbell

T H E R E I S M U C H TO D I S C OV E R I N A N D A R O U N D T H E M A R K E T TO W N O F K I N G S TO N . P O S I T I O N E D O N T H E B A N K S O F T H E T H A M E S , T H E R OYA L B O R O U G H OFFERS NEAR-ENDLESS SHOPPING AND DINING OPTIONS, A L L I M M E R S E D W I T H I N A N A B U N DA N C E O F C U LT U R E A N D G R E E N S PAC E – R I C H P I C K I N G S F O R I T S R E S I D E N T S

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The 30-minute train ride to London Waterloo makes Kingston upon Thames a prime location for lovers of the big city, but with its stunning parklands, choice of excellent schools and interesting history, not to mention the plethora of dining and shopping options, residents here find every excuse not to leave KT1. We take a glimpse into the best of local life and explore the area’s top hidden gems and weekend hang-outs.

DO: Kingston is London’s third largest shopping area following the West End and Westfield, but it has retained the refreshingly laidback atmosphere of a market town. It’s little surprise then that first on the to-do list is to head for a spot of shopping. There are the big names in the Bentall Centre and John Lewis and a smaller, independent offering on surrounding streets; in total there are no fewer than 85 shops at last count and handily, a Waitrose supermarket sits centrally too. On the high street, don’t forget to get a picture with artist David Mach’s Out of Order sculpture, made up of 12 pillar-box-red phone boxes that lean against each other like dominoes. It was a source of controversy when it was installed in 1989, with the mayor at the time claiming he had to get the council to write his unveiling speech because his would have been ‘unprintable’.

S I T T I N G P R E T T Y, N E S T L E D I N T H E T O W N C E N T R E A N D I N C O R P O R A T I N G A S E L E C T I O N O F O R I G I N A L L I S T E D B U I L D I N G S , T H E R O YA L E X C H A N G E D E V E L O P M E N T I S P E R F E C T LY P L A C E D T O E N J O Y T H E R I C H S P O I L S O F T H I S S T U N N I N G L O C A L E


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Parkland along the River Thames in Kingston. Photography © Astrid Tontson; the Royal Exchange Kingston development incorporates a mixture of new and original listed buildings; a statue of Queen Anne in Kingston Market Place, erected in 1706

Post-shopping relaxing takes the form of a scenic boat ride past the pretty riverside. Turks launches cruises between Hampton Court and Kingston with a range of boats available, from rowing to 12-seaters, from Taggs Boatyard. If you’d rather stay on dry land, take the towpath from the bridge down to the palace or Bushy Park. Once King Henry VIII’s personal hunting grounds, Bushy Park is the second largest of the capital’s eight Royal Parks, rivalled only by Richmond. Like Richmond Park, you’ll find herds of red and fallow deer here too, plus an avenue of chestnut trees that was conceived by Sir Christopher Wren as a formal approach to Hampton Court Palace, a Baroque water garden – which once functioned as a swimming pool for East End boys with respiratory diseases – and the Diana Fountain, commissioned by King Charles I for his wife.

SEE: After Thomas Wolsey began converting the medieval manor into a lavish palace, Henry VIII rather fancied Hampton Court for himself and took control of building works when the archbishop fell from grace. It was from here that Henry first threatened to break from the papacy in Rome and, much later, President Eisenhower planned the Normandy landings. Visit for ghost stories, the Tudor kitchen and a priceless art collection held in the Cumberland Art Gallery. Hampton Court isn’t the town’s only royal connection. Kingston literally translates as King’s Stone, because this was where kings were crowned in the 10th century. You can still view the coronation stone at the Guildhall, until it is returned to its original resting place at All Saints, a 12th-century church. The local Ancient Market has equally weighty history and, to the delight of residents, enjoyed 15 minutes of fame as the location of Morrison’s Christmas advert a few years ago. Though the market dates back 800 years, last year it was a RIBA London award winner for Tonkin Liu’s £3m rejuvenation creating a flexible community space.

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EAT: There are excellent restaurants aplenty in the main shopping district, but head ever so slightly off the beaten track, to the surrounding residential areas, for independent treasures. Something of an institution, The Riverside Vegetaria was way ahead of the curve, serving up veggie dishes on the riverfront since 1989, after its owner Ritchie Sakthivel was inspired by a trip to India to meet a spiritual leader. You’ll still find him there seven days a week. But if you are hankering for a hunk of meat, The Canbury Arms in the north of the town will hit the mark. The independently run neighbourhood pub offers classic fare, with carefully sourced ingredients. It’s the sort of establishment you’d be proud to call your local. For the best beer garden, there’s The Boaters Inn. Situated next to Kingston Rowing Club, it’s just the spot for a pint while you watch the rowers skim passed. Extra special occasions should be held at The French Table, a familyrun restaurant where you’ll find an imaginative take on French-Mediterranean cuisine and a stonking wine list. In a hurry? How about posh fish ‘n’ chips at Fish! Kitchen on Coombe Road, which has a sister restaurant in Borough Market. All fish is sourced from day boats on the south coast via their fishmonger Jarvis, who works next door.

STAY: Sitting pretty, nestled in the town centre and incorporating a number of original listed buildings as well as private landscaped gardens, the new Royal Exchange development is perfectly placed for you to enjoy the rich spoils of this stunning locale. Your beautiful home in this buzzing metropolitan centre awaits.

ROYAL EXCHANGE KINGSTON FORTHCOMING RELEASE OF 1, 2 AND 3 BEDROOM HOMES

Ashdown Road, London KT1 2AH [email protected] +44 (0)20 3773 5904 royalexchangekingston.com

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Jimi Hendrix performing at the Royal Albert Hall

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Everyone, from home-grown icons Ed Sheeran and Adele to the music industry’s most popular imports, including Beyoncé and Justin Bieber, have performed in front of nearly 20,000 fans at the iconic venue. But don’t forget London’s smaller hidden gems, where a plethora of new talent is nurtured and enjoyed in intimate settings. The East End’s magical Wilton’s Music Hall was described by the press as ‘a beguiling Tardis of crumbling Victoriana’ after its recent £4 million refurbishment, and venues such as the Oslo in Hackney, The Lexington in Angel and KOKO in Camden are the trendiest establishments to get ahead of your new-music game. But London is somewhere music is made as well as played. Songwriters and composers have flocked to Soho’s Denmark Street since the 1920s: our own ‘Tin Pan Alley’. And traffic jams are still a daily occurrence in St John’s Wood thanks to fans posing on a zebra crossing half a century after The Beatles made EMI’s Abbey Road the most famous recording studios on the planet. Such historical landmarks are bound to be the most popular stops on any musical tour, but London’s biography is still being written, often in the most unlikely places. Tucked away on an anonymous industrial estate in West London, for example, are the studios of Floating Earth, a multi-award-winning outfit whose cutting-edge technology has been used to record a range of artists, from Jay Z to Coldplay.

When Jimi Hendrix left America in 1966 he was almost unknown, yet by the time he returned he was a megastar. Just nine months in London changed his life forever and gave the world its greatest ever rock guitarist. His tale is well known, and with its tragic ending it has become a defining story of the Swinging Sixties. Back then, London offered a uniquely fertile environment for musicians of all nationalities and every conceivable genre, and it still does today. Hendrix’s last gig is a matter of record: a couple of nights before he died he sat in with Eric Burdon & War at Ronnie Scott’s, which opened in 1959. His first is somewhat harder to pin down, although the smart money is on a club called The Scotch of St James. The Beatles and The Who were among those who played this intimate basement off St James’s Square, and it is thought to have been the location for Jimi’s first impromptu gig, in 1966.

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Elsewhere, you’ll find artists eager to acknowledge the important role London has played in their careers. David Bowie posed for an album cover as ‘Ziggy Stardust’ outside 23 Heddon Street W1, and Bob Dylan shot his celebrated film for the song Subterranean Homesick Blues in an alleyway behind The Savoy Hotel. Little wonder then that, as well as producing countless musicians of its own – Madness, Amy Winehouse and the Stones are as tightly woven into London’s fabric as any Pepys or Wren – the city continues to draw in talent from every corner of the world, just as it did in 1710 when Handel first stepped ashore. Nor is it hard to see why they come here. With history and colourful diversity, and bursting with that special creativity which comes from living in the most exciting and vibrant city in the world, the London sound is still very much alive and kicking.

After a 20-year hiatus, The Scotch was restored in 2012 and relaunched in 2014, and now it soldiers on, with Ronnie’s, among a staggering number of venues – ancient and modern, large and small – that sit at the heart of London’s vibrant and impressively international music scene. Hendrix and Handel famously shared the same Mayfair address; more than 200 years earlier, George Frideric, a German, cemented his reputation writing Italian operas here. Switching to English, he produced Messiah, an oratorio that made its London debut at the forerunner of the Royal Opera House.

OPPOSITE PAGE Paloma Faith performing at the Roundhouse THIS PAGE, FROM LEFT

Wilton’s Music Hall – ‘a beguiling Tardis’; the iconic neon sign outside Ronnie Scott’s

Artists today enjoy a far wider choice of where to play than poor old Handel, with audiences packing out everything from an old railway shed (recent sell-out gigs at the Roundhouse include the likes of Jamie T and Radiohead) to the music mecca that is The 02 – a benchmark gig for any self-respecting superstar.

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EALING FILMWORKS 42—44

DICKENS YA R D 38—41

R O YA L E X C H A N G E KINGSTON 94—97

BEAUFORT PA R K 74 — 7 7

Filmworks, with its pretty Art Deco façade, is to form Ealing’s new leisure quarter. It will incorporate extensive public open spaces, as well as new shops, bars and restaurants, including a state-of-the-art eight-screen Picturehouse cinema.

Central to Ealing’s regeneration, Dickens Yard is delivering high quality, well connected new homes, with residents facilities, shops, bars and restaurants.

Situated in Kingston’s town centre, Royal Exchange Kingston is just a 30-minute train ride from Waterloo. Incorporating new and listed buildings, as well as private landscaped gardens, the development will be a beautiful base from which to enjoy Kingston’s rich offerings.

With superb transport links and landscaped gardens, Beaufort Park has everything needed for easy modern living, including a Mediterranean-style boulevard and health and fitness centre, all situated within easy reach of Central London.

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SOVEREIGN COURT 90—93

FULHAM REACH 46—49

CHELSEA CREEK 56—59

B AT T E R S E A REACH 78—81

Sovereign Court is centrally located in the heart of cosmopolitan Hammersmith, renowned for its schools and green space, and home to several multinational companies. The development is conveniently located 150m from two London Underground stations.

Enjoying spectacular views of the River Thames, sweeping promenades and beautifully landscaped gardens, Fulham Reach is fast becoming one of London’s most prestigious residential addresses.

Located in the heart of one of London’s most exclusive addresses, Chelsea Creek is a vibrant new canalside destination within easy reach of the fashionable Kings Road, Sloane Square and Chelsea Harbour.

Battersea Reach has more to offer than its spacious, light and beautiful living spaces. A tranquil place to relax and unwind with a wide range of amenities, Battersea Reach residents can enjoy convenient living, surrounded by picturesque grounds and attractive river walkways.

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ONE BLACKFRIARS 28—33

LONDON DOCK 16—21

One Blackfriars is a magnificent addition to the London skyline. Envisaged as an awe-inspiring sculpture looking down on the River Thames, the 170-metre-high tower with 274 luxury apartments is ideally placed to embrace London’s rich cultural life on the South Bank.

With excellent connections to London’s leading financial centres, this exciting new quarter will revitalise one of the city’s most historic areas with elegant public spaces and an outstanding range of high-quality homes.

Colindale

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HAMPST EAD HAMPST EAD

Wembley Stadium Wembley Stadium

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King’s Cross King’s Cross CI T Y CI T Y St Pancras St Pancras Whitechapel (Crossrail Whitechapel (Crossrail Euston Liverpool Street Liverpool Street opening 2018) opening 2018) Tower of London Tower of London MAYFAIR MAYFAIR St Paul’s Cathedral St Paul’s Cathedral Euston

SHEPHERD’S SHEPHERD’S BUSH BUSH

Hyde Park

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WE ST MINST WEER ST MIN STER

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HAMMERSMIT HAMMERSMIT H H Royal Albert Hall Royal Albert Hall

CHELSEA CHELSEA Hammersmith Hammersmith

Houses of Parliament

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London City Airport London City Airport The O2 Canary WharfCanary Wharf

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Heathrow Airport Heathrow Airport

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Gatwick Airport Gatwick Airport

Imperial Wharf

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Clapham Common Icon artwork courtesy of Bryn Talyor and Arloenl Evinniev

Imperial Wharf

Computer-generated images are indicative only

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Ealing Broadway Ealing Broadway (Crossrail (Crossrail E ALINg opening 2018) opening 2018)