Bottom photo on the front cover of Sicilian Men © Paul Montecalvo (see etsy.com/shop/PaulMontecalvophoto). Small photo
I T I N E R A R Y SICILY A P H O T O G R A P H Y J O U R N E Y O N T H E I S L A N D O F L I G H T M a r c h 2 5 -‐ A p r i l 5 , 2 0 1 8 | d u r i n g H o l y W e e k W I T H P R O P H O T O G R A P H E R D A V I D H . W E L L S
Join us in Sicily, an island of light, on a meticulously crafted itinerary during Holy Week, in the middle of the spring bloom! Early spring on Italy’s largest island is a time of great vitality. Winter has receded: the almond trees blossom, the scent of orange blossoms fill the air, and fields are alive with pink and purple clover, yellow mustard, blue flax, and bright red patches of poppies. Sicily has woken. The energy is palpable: in the fields, in the cities, and in the incredible warmth of the locals. Tiny plums, cherries, and paschal lambs appear in the display cases of pasticcerias. And in the old quarters of the island’s medieval cities, a week of processions and reenactments culminates in the bright festivities and folk dramas of Good Friday & an Easter Sunday inflected with ancient traditions. Experience the light and warmth of this cultural melting pot of an island on a tour especially designed for the photographer’s eye.
HIGHLIGHTS: • Discover beautiful, historic, energy-‐filled Palermo – where we’ll stay for three nights in the old Arab quarter, with photo walks in the markets and port, plus key sights in town – and travel to nearby Monreale to marvel at and capture its incredible mosaics. • Explore the northwestern corner of the island and photograph the Greek city of Segesta in its stunning setting, hilltop Erice (often shrouded in a mysterious veil of fog), and the Marsala salt flats in late afternoon light. • Experience and photograph the famed Good Friday procession in Enna, a beautiful off-‐the-‐beaten path mountaintop town in the center of the island. • Partake of and photograph Easter celebrations with Sicilians in the beautiful Alcantara Valley, after an afternoon exploring imposing the striking slopes, lava fields and vineyards of Mount Etna. • Enjoy and capture the essence of the dolce far niente (sweetness of doing nothing) in enchanting Taormina—which Goethe called “a corner of paradise”— with its spectacular views of Europe’s largest volcano. • Absorb the beauty of historic Siracusa on our three final nights, one of the most powerful cities of antiquity, with its archeological treasures and lovely old town of Ortigia. • Stay in deluxe hotels throughout the itinerary, chosen for their ambiance, high standards, and location (all within walking distance from the top areas of photographic interest, giving us ample freedom of movement). • Learn from travel photography veteran and photo instructor David H. Wells, via one-‐on-‐one guidance and a series of photography workshops throughout the trip. • Travel with veteran tour leader and Sicily expert Alex Ros, the owner of boutique tour company Open Sky Expeditions, who is fluent in Italian and a photographer himself. • Absorb the knowledge of local experts, traveling with some of the top English-‐speaking guides on the island for most tours and joined by a local Sicilian photographer who’ll show us her insider spots on select days. • Savor amazing, delicious Sicilian food, enjoying carefully chosen restaurants, avoiding the big tour crowds. • Relax with logistically seamless, hassle-‐free travel – tipping included, and much more (see tour inclusions). • Book confidently on an itinerary developed over months to find the correct pace and balance, with an eye toward the best light and photography opportunities.
ITINERARY OVERVIEW March 25 Sun
Depart USA
Overnight in:
Palermo
PALERMO | MONREALE
Palermo
March 28 Wed Palermo | ERICE | SEGESTA | MARSALA SALT FLATS | Palermo
Palermo
March 29 Thu
PALERMO | CEFALU
March 30 Fri
Cefalu | GOOD FRIDAY PROCESSION IN ENNA
March 26 Mon Arrive Palermo, Italy March 27 Tue
Cefalu
Enna
March 31 Sat
ENNA | HILLTOP TOWNS AROUND ETNA | Taormina
Taormina
April 1 Sun
TAORMINA | MT. ETNA | EASTER SUNDAY in the ALCANTARA VALLEY | Taormina
Taormina
April 2 Mon
TAORMINA | SIRACUSA
Siracusa
April 3 Tue
SIRACUSA
Siracusa
April 4 Wed
Siracusa | NOTO | MARZAMEMI | Siracusa
Siracusa
April 5 Thu
Siracusa | Fly home from Catania
MAP
MAIN ITINERARY:
March 25 Sun
Depart Home
Depart the U.S. on an overnight flight to Italy.
March 26 Mon Arrive Palermo, Italy
Arrive Palermo and transfer to your deluxe hotel on arrival.
Rest and enjoy the rest of the day at leisure after the overnight flight.
Gather tonight for a welcome dinner at an excellent, non-‐touristy restaurant Palermo.
Overnight in Palermo at the Eurostars Central Palace or Hotel Ambasciatori. (D)
1
March 27 Tue
PALERMO | MONREALE Optional sunrise walk in the area near the hotel, before breakfast, likely to the port. Then, after breakfast: Photography tour of Palermo visiting key city attractions (Piazza Pretoria, the old city center, La Martorana), and highlighting the lively Ballaro Market in former Arab quarter (wonderful opportunities to shoot the characterful sellers offering fresh fish, local vegetables, cheeses, et.). Enjoy a classic Palermitano lunch at a local popular eatery (an insider’s pick). In the afternoon travel to nearby Monreale, with its beautiful panoramic views above Palermo, to see and photograph the spectacular mosaics in its cathedral, visit the Benedictine Cloister, and enjoy some independent time to explore. Our return to Palermo will timed to end a key spot for sunset. Remainder of the day at leisure (with recommended restaurants for dinner).
Overnight in Palermo at the Eurostars Central Palace or Hotel Ambasciatori. (B, L)
March 28 Wed Palermo | ERICE | SEGESTA | MARSALA SALT FLATS | Palermo Take a full-‐day excursion out to the northwestern corner of the island, including: th
A morning visit to the majestically set, impressive Greek ruins at Segesta, including its striking 5 century BC Doric-‐ style temple and the theater, with its sweeping views of the island. Midday to early afternoon in charming Erice, a small medieval village with breathtaking views located at 2,500 ft altitude – including a visit to Maria Grammatico’s famous pastry shop for a tasting of her legendary almond cookies and marzipan (centuries-‐old secret recipes) with local dessert wines and liqueurs. We’ll enjoy independent time to photograph the attractive town, which is often shrouded in a mystical fog, and also plan to have lunch there. In the late afternoon, timed to coincide with sunset, we’ll drive to the Marsala Salt Flats, a striking setting for photographs in late afternoon light. Return to Palermo for the remainder of the day at leisure.
Overnight in Palermo at the Eurostars Central Palace or Hotel Ambasciatori. (B, L)
March 29 Thu
Palermo | CEFALU
Those interested can join a second optional early morning walk in the historic district around our Palermo hotel.
After check-‐out we’ll then head east out of Palermo towards Cefalu, with a possible stop in the scenic hilltop town of Castelbuono en route.
Arrive in postcard-‐worthy Cefalu in time for a delightful lunch at a local restaurant.
Spend the rest of the afternoon exploring the relaxing, scenic, delightful seaside town of Cefalu – with a dedicated late afternoon/sunset shoot in the town.
The remainder of the day is at leisure.
Today is intentionally more relaxed, in an effort to find balance at the right time in the trip.
Overnight in Cefalu at the La Plumeria boutique hotel or seaside Hotel Astro Suites. (B, L)
1
Palermo, Cefalu and Taormina each list one of two hotels. The final choice will mainly depend on our final group size and number of shared rooms.
March 30 Fri
Cefalu | GOOD FRIDAY PROCESSION IN ENNA
Flexible early to mid-‐morning in gorgeous Cefalu. Those interested can venture out for photos with David.
By 10am, we’ll depart south, cutting through the island’s northern mountain range and out to the beautiful off-‐the-‐ beaten path mountaintop town of Enna, in the center of the island.
On arrival, we’ll check into our hotel, and leave time for an early, independent lunch so that the rest of the day is clear for the one of the trip’s highlights: the famed Good Friday Procession in the historic town. See the description at the end of this itinerary for a writer’s take on the procession. Our hotel is strategically located footsteps away from the events so we can head in and out at our convenience.
Overnight in Enna at Hotel Sicilia. (B)
March 31 Sat
ENNA | HILLTOP TOWNS AROUND ETNA | Taormina
After a late night on Friday, enjoy a morning at leisure to sleep in, process photos, and/or explore Enna independently.
This afternoon, will join a local photographer-‐guide for a drive towards the northeastern coast and Mt. Etna, stopping in various carefully-‐selected, scenic hilltop towns en route. Some of the photo walks will prioritize exploring off-‐the-‐ beaten track towns and meeting & photographing the welcoming locals. As the afternoon proceeds and the light becomes more dramatic, we’ll focus on capturing the spectacular settings of the villages in the landscape before imposing Mt. Etna – ensuring we are the right place in the correct light, and with enough flexibility to respond to weather conditions, unexpected photo opportunities, etc.
In the early evening, we’ll arrive in scenic Taormina, for two nights.
Overnight in Taormina at the Hotel Villa Diodoro or Hotel Piccolo Giardino. (B)
April 1 Sun
TAORMINA | MT. ETNA | EASTER SUNDAY in the ALCANTARA VALLEY | Taormina
Built on a hillside with breathtaking views of Mount Etna and the Ionian Sea below, it’s no surprise that Goethe th described Taormina as a “a corner of paradise.” A popular travel destination since the 19 century, Taormina is as rich in history (the first Greek settlement in Italy) as it is in spectacular views and beauty.
This morning we’ll have our orientation in Taormina, with a short tour highlighting the Greco-‐Roman Theater, where the backdrop is none other than Mount Etna, the largest volcano in continental Europe.
Saving our leisure time for tomorrow, we’ll venture off for an exciting afternoon including:
-‐ Lunch and a visit to a delightful agriturismo or winery on the northern side of Etna
-‐ An exploration on the slopes of the volcano in some its most striking areas, some extraordinarily fertile, others stark.
-‐ A walk on the slopes of Mt. Etna (possibly a longer hike depending on time)
-‐ Exploring the scenic Alcantara Valley, its various gorges, and stopping into an Easter celebration in one of the villages.
-‐ Sunset at a strategic point on the landscape by Mt. Etna
Return to Taormina for the remainder of the evening at leisure.
Overnight in Taormina at the Hotel Villa Diodoro or Hotel Piccolo Giardino. (B, L)
April 2 Mon
TAORMINA | SIRACUSA
To balance out yesterday’s full day, this morning into early afternoon will be at leisure to explore and enjoy enchanting, walkable Taormina (often cited as the place to enjoy the “dolce farniente” or the “sweetness of doing nothing”).
David will also plan to offer on-‐on-‐one photo review meetings for those interested (this is something we’ll do throughout the trip, but today will have the most time for).
After an independent lunch, we’ll head south via Catania to Siracusa. Founded in the 8 century BC by colonizing Greeks, Siracusa (Syracuse) was one of the most powerful cities in the Mediterranean, rivaling the dominance of Athens. Cicero once described it as "the greatest Greek city and the most beautiful of them all.”
On arrival we’ll check in to our lovely boutique hotel in the old town, situated on the island of Ortigia, where we’ll spend our final three nights.
th
Those interested can join David & Alex for an independent dinner at a recommended restaurant in town.
Overnight in Siracusa at the Hotel Roma. (B)
April 3 Tue
SIRACUSA Siracusa’s old town —situated on the Island of Ortygia— is another delightful place to wander in, so we are again deliberately keeping scheduling light today to adjust for where the group is feeling, independent exploration, etc. On the menu for the day: -‐ An early morning/sunrise optional walk, focusing on the eastern side of the island, ending with the market as it comes alive for the day. -‐ A guided walk through the old town’s attractive lanes including visits at the Temple of Apollo, Fountain of Aretusa, cathedral, etc. -‐ A late afternoon photo shoot focusing on the western side of Ortigia. -‐ Depending on interest, the possibility of including a cooking class (at an additional yet reasonable cost). -‐ The balance of the day at leisure.
Overnight in Siracusa at the Hotel Roma. (B)
April 4 Wed
Siracusa | NOTO | MARZAMEMI | Siracusa On our final day of exploration we’ll enjoy an excursion to the gorgeous baroque town of Noto, and the charming port town of Marzamemi, with lunch at a local restaurant during the outing. Return to Siracusa for a final late afternoon in the town. Gather tonight for a slideshow of top photos from the trip, followed by a farewell dinner at a delectable local restaurant in the old town. Overnight in Siracusa at the Hotel Roma. (B, L, D)
April 5 Thu
Siracusa | Catania – Fly out
Transfer in the morning to the Catania airport for outbound flights. (B)
Siracusa
TOUR COST Early registration price, if booked by October 15, 2017*
$5,985 per person, double occupancy | Single Supplement: $590
$6,485 per person, double occupancy | Single Supplement: $590
Regular price after October 15, 2017:
PROGRAM INCLUSIONS: • A complete program of tours and excursions, as described in the itinerary • Stays at carefully selected four-‐star and boutique hotels on the island, as per the itinerary • Photography workshops and one-‐on-‐one teaching by award-‐winning photographer and photo instructor David Wells, who will accompany all of our outings • All meals as noted in the itinerary • Baggage handling and airport transfers in Sicily on arrival and departure • Gratuities to all guides, drivers, porters, and wait staff for group meals • Open Sky Expeditions owner Alex Ros as your personal host and tour leader • Excellent English-‐speaking guides throughout • Bottled water on all excursions • A detailed and useful Destination and Travel Information Packet – including a recommended reading list – to assist with pre-‐ departure planning • A complimentary travel wallet and personalized travel notebook with final documents (or alternate gift for past travelers) *Rates apply with 10 travelers participating. Trip limited to 12 participants. If the group is below 10 travelers, a small group supplement applies, with a minimum of 6: $250 with 8 or 9 participants; an additional $315 with 6 or 7 participants.
NOT INCLUDED: • International airfare. • Tourist entry visas, reciprocity fees, passport fees, and photos if required. • Medical, accident, baggage, or cancellation insurance. • Personal items and other expenses not specifically mentioned in the program inclusions.
HOTELS HOTEL EUROSTARS CENTRALE | PALERMO Excellently located in the heart of Palermo, this historic hotel occupies the old Palazzo Tarallo, keeping the original structure with vintage frescoes and furniture. LA PLUMERIA | CEFALU The result of a meticulous renovation of late-‐medieval building in Cefalu’s historic center, this boutique hotel charms its guests and boasts a wonderful restaurant. HOTEL SICILIA | ENNA Chosen for its unbeatable location steps away from the Duomo and the Good Friday procession, this cozy hotel is an ideal, if slightly simpler base, for our one night in town. HOTEL DIODORO | TAORMINA With sweeping views of Naxos Bay & Mt. Etna, luxuriant gardens, and cozy lounges, this historic hotel treats its guests to the true art of Sicilian hospitality. HOTEL ROMA | SIRACUSA Framed by the spectacular Cathedral and the Archbishop’s Palace, the Antica Hotel Roma is a one-‐of-‐a-‐kind, excellently run, stylish, boutique hotel in Ortigia (one of the few on the city-‐island). DEPENDING ON GROUP SIZE/MAKE-‐UP: We are also holding space at the following hotels, some of which we may confirm instead, depending primarily on group size, and on the number of shared rooms with twin beds (the latter is a variable that requires consideration with some of these small boutique establishments). HOTEL AMBASCIATORI | PALERMO In the heart of historic Palermo, occupying the top floors of an elegant building, this boutique hotel boasts a beautiful roof terrace with a panoramic view of the city. HOTEL ASTRO SUITES | CEFALU Located on the beach, yet only a few meters from the blend of art and culture in this seaside town, this Suite-‐only hotel (each with sea-‐view balconies) serves as an ideal base to explore lovely Cefalu. HOTEL IL PICCOLO GIARDINO | TAORMINA A more modern take on Taormina, this new boutique hotel just off main pedestrian street, Corso Umberto, boasts a wonderful rooftop and functional, comfortable rooms.
A PREVIEW OF THE GOOD FRIDAY PROCESSION IN ENNA: Shadows lengthen, the air is cooling; the strains of a funeral march begin. Crowds gather along the narrow cobblestone streets; they peer from the windows and balconies of the stone buildings that line the way. It is Good Friday in the ancient city of Enna, in the very center of Sicily, and soon these streets of its historic center will be animated by a tradition that can be traced back to its 17th-‐century Spanish occupiers. Pale yellow robes and white hoods mark the Confraternity of San Salvatore, 60 of whom shoulder a weighty platform that carries the Urn of the Dead Christ from the Church of San Leonardo. From the Church of Addolorata, 80 men of another confraternity, clad in black robes and white hoods, sway from side to side with the weight of another statue, this one the six-‐foot-‐tall Madonna of Sorrows. She is mourning the loss of her child. As the evening progresses, these men will be joined by Photo credit: Giovanni Castanella | Good Friday, Enna nearly 3,000 others from the city’s 15 confraternities, each distinguished by the color of their robes. Early on, the bright red vestments of the Confraternity of the Passion will appear, bearing on red cushions the Mysteries, or symbols of the crucifixion: the nails from the cross, for instance, the dice thrown by the Roman soldiers. It is a mournful, majestic procession, and it will, finally, begin the longest leg of its slow march at the 14th-‐century Duomo, wending its way to the cemetery on the edge of town and then, just as slowly, just as majestically, back. Colored lanterns light the way as darkness gathers. The slow beat of a snare drum guides the procession up the hill and into the town center once more, crowds still lining the streets, where at last, near midnight, the Urn of the Dead Christ will be returned to the Duomo and the Madonna of Sorrows to the Church of the Sant’Antonio. Our hotel is nestled in the historic center of the city, where the procession begins, allowing us the best flexibility and access to the events of the day. We’ll be able to capture the colorful marchers from several sites that we’ll have staked out along the route, and you’ll have the opportunity to follow the procession at your own pace, pausing at whatever scene of this theatrical ritual catches your eye.
PHOTOGRAPHY INSTRUCTOR: David H. Wells (www.davidhwells.com) is a freelance documentary photographer and photo-‐educator based in Providence, Rhode Island. He specializes in inter-‐cultural communications and the use of light and shadow to enhance visual narratives. David’s “Light Studies” have appeared in a wide range of exhibitions and publications including the Philadelphia Inquirer Sunday Magazine and Rhode Island Monthly. He has received two Fulbright Fellowships, a grant from Nikon/N.P.P.A. and a fellowship from the Pennsylvania Council on the Arts. His work has been shown around the world in over fifty exhibitions and publications including American Photographer, Camera and Darkroom, Camera Arts and Zoom. He has taught workshops at the International Center for Photography in NYC and the Maine Media Workshops. David launched an online educational tool with video podcasts and other useful information for photographers called “The Wells Point” (www.thewellspoint.com).
HOST AND TOUR LEADER: Alex Ros is the founder and President of Open Sky Expeditions. A Harvard graduate who speaks six languages and has traveled to over 80 countries, Alex has extensive in-‐depth knowledge of the travel business. Prior to founding Open Sky in 2010, for over eight years he directed dozens of international programs for one of the world’s top operators of high-‐caliber educational programs aboard small ships. Among Alex’s unique experiences, he has conducted reconnaissance missions to over 15 countries in Africa alone, and has personally led hundreds of travelers on scores of international tours. Alex speaks Italian and has been leading tours to Sicily since 2003—an island that he’ll unabashedly tell you is his favorite place in the Mediterranean.
REGISTRATION
Sicily: A Photography Journey on the Island of Light| March 25-‐April 5, 2018 | ITA-‐1803P
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[email protected] to inquire about availability on this trip and to hold your reservation until we receive your registration and deposit. You can either fill in an online form at http://bit.ly/ITA1803PReg and pay the deposit by credit card, or you can submit this form, along with a check, to: Open Sky Expeditions, 344 Grove Street, Suite 18, Jersey City, NJ, 07302, USA. You may also submit this form by email to
[email protected] or by fax to +1 (347) 344-‐6990.
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Responsibility: Open Sky Expeditions acts only as an agent for the independent suppliers that provide hotel accommodations, transportation, sightseeing, activities, and other services connected with this tour. Said services are subject to the terms and conditions of the respective provider. Open Sky Expeditions and its employees, agents, representatives, and assignees accept no liability whatsoever for any injury, damage, loss, accident, delay, or any other occurrence that might result from the negligence, defect, error or default of any company or person in the performance of said services. Responsibility is not accepted for losses, injury, damages, cancellations, or expenses of any kind due to sickness, weather, strikes, hostilities, wars, terrorist acts, acts of nature, local laws, or other situations of force majeure. All services and accommodations are subject to the laws and regulations of the country in which they are provided. Open Sky Expeditions is not responsible for any baggage or personal effects of any individual participating in any of the tours and activities arranged by Open Sky Expeditions. All travelers are responsible for purchasing their respective insurance policy(ies) to cover expenses and handle emergencies associated with the loss of luggage, personal effects and any other insurable losses associated with their trip. Payment Schedule: A deposit of $900 per person is required to reserve a space on this tour. Payments should be made by check or credit card and sent to the address or fax number listed on the registration form. Final payment is due 90 days before departure. Credit cards are generally not accepted for final payment, unless travelers would like to cover associated transaction fees at a 3% surcharge. Cancellation Policy: All cancellations of confirmed reservations are subject to a $250 per person administrative fee. Additionally, travelers are subject to any cancellation fees assessed by the purveyors of services, including airlines and hotels used in the itinerary. Cancellations received 61-‐90 days of departure will be assessed a penalty of 25% of the total program cost per person. Cancellations received within 46-‐60 days will be penalized 50% of the program cost. Cancellations received within 31-‐45 days will be penalized 75% of the program cost. Cancellations received within 30 days of departure will be assessed a penalty of 100% of the total program cost. All requests for cancellations must be made in writing. These cancellation policies apply in every instance and no exceptions will be made. Refunds: Leaving a trip in progress for any reason whatsoever will not result in a refund. No refunds will be made for any part of this program in which you choose to not participate, including but not limited to hotels stays, air or land transportation, meals, tours or other sightseeing arrangements. Insurance: Travelers with Open Sky Expeditions must carry overseas medical insurance that includes emergency medical evacuation coverage. We strongly recommend purchase of a comprehensive policy that also includes trip cancellation insurance covering illness or accident both prior and during the program as well as coverage for baggage loss or delay. Details on all of these insurance options will be sent to you with your pre-‐departure information materials. Please take extra care reading the section on insurance and as well as all third party insurance materials. Itinerary: The itinerary, accommodations, and arrangements are subject to change or modification at the discretion of Open Sky Expeditions. Every reasonable effort will be made to operate the program as planned, but changes may still occur after the final itinerary is sent to you. By booking a reservation with Open Sky Expeditions, travelers understand that amenities, types of transport, routes, schedules, and itineraries may change without prior notice due to circumstances or events in the location due to, but not limited to, mechanical breakdowns, flight cancellations, illness, strikes, weather, political disputes, border crossing problems and other unforeseen factors. Rates: Open Sky Expeditions will do everything possible to preserve the prices listed in the original marketing materials you receive. However, between the dates these prices are published and the trip’s actual departure date, unforeseen and exceptional cost increases may occur due to currency fluctuations, taxes, airfare and transport cost increases, or others that may force Open Sky Expeditions to assess a surcharge. If that unusual occurrence were to take place, the assessed surcharge will reflect only the specific cost increase. If the increase were to exceed 10% of the original cost of the tour, you may cancel within 10 days of receiving said notification and obtain a full refund.
OPEN SKY EXPEDITIONS 344 Grove Street, Suite 18 Jersey City, NJ 07302 1.800.978.8890 | +1.212.441.0024 www.OpenSkyExpeditions.com
SICILY: A Photography Journey on the Island of Light Tour code: ITA1803P Updated by A. Ros: September 7, 2017 PDF content © 2017 Open Sky Expeditions
Photo credits: Assorted photos by Alex Ros & David Wells. Bottom photo on the front cover of Sicilian Men © Paul Montecalvo (see etsy.com/shop/PaulMontecalvophoto). Small photo of Enna procession © Giovanni Castanella via Creative Commons License 2.0 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/giocaste/9174772370)
