tropical fruits, exotic fruits, as well fresh green apple and peach. This is a generous wine which coaxes comfort, a sum
JANUARY / FEBRUARY WINE NEWSLETTER A recent sweep of rising tides, frigid temperatures and a blanket of snow has brought us up close and personal with winter. These are days when we begin to long for a respite from layer upon layer of sweaters and hats and gloves, and we’re more apt to embrace cozying up at home, cooking with family and friends, and relishing in comfort. While Spain, too, ushered in January with a similar cold snap, the country’s culture, devotion to tradition, and magnetic ‘alegria de vivir’ brings visions of warmth and festivity. Let’s time travel, shall we, across Spain’s varied wine regions which often offer wonderful wines at quite reasonable prices. Yes, what’s on order right about now to keep us cheery until March sneaks a peak around the corner is a selection of wines to contemplate and perhaps explore the cuisine of Spain. A great rule of thumb, aside from just enjoying and experimenting with food and wine, is the old adage of matching ‘taste and place’. So, grab a hip or tattered Spanish cookbook, explore the wines below, and have fun. Anais Nin, an American writer born in France with deep Spanish roots and an equal passion for Flamenco wrote “We write to taste life twice, in the moment and in retrospect.” So too shall we go forth with wine. Salud! © Paige Farrell
2013 Gramona Grand Cuvée Cava, Catalonia $18.70 (sale) regularly $21.99 Just as Champagne comes from its namesake region in France, and Prosecco hails from the Veneto region in Italy, Cava is Spain's sparkling darling, with most Cava coming from Catalonia, a region located in the far northeast of Spain, along the Mediterranean Coast. Traditionally, Spanish varietals Xarel-lo, Macabeo, and Parellada are used, and to be labeled Cava, the sparkling wine must be made using the traditional method used in Champagne proper, the 'Méthode Champenoise', which is called 'Método Tradicional in Spain. Gramona is a truly celebratory winery as it is one of the last traditional, family owned wineries making Cava, in the appellation of Cava. The vineyards are on steep slopes assuring superlative tension-aka that graceful and necessary lift by way of pointed acidity-and due to the intentions with the winemaking, several of their cuvées are made to age, and offer the glorious autolytic (toasty, yeasty, nutty) flavors found in grand Champagne. The Grand Cuvée is captivating, rich and fresh, bold, crisp, with a whisper of fruit. Try it with traditional Catalonian tapas such as embutidos (cured meats and jambon), or escalivadas (grilled vegetables with rich olive oil). Keep Gramona on hand for Valentine's Day, which will be here before we know it! Available at both Reservoir Wine & Wollaston Wine.
2016 Bodegas del Palacio de Fefinanes Albariño Rias Baixas, Galicia 17.00 (sale) regularly $19.99 This winery is the oldest original producer of Albariño, a grape which shines bright in its native Galicia, a region in the far northwest of Spain, nestled along the Atlantic. The winery and vineyards are located in the Rias Baixas appellation, basking in the vibrant, salt laced air coming off of the ocean. The effects of this proximity bring the rivet of brine and mineral, as well as the plush floral qualities inherent in the Albariño grape, and make a wine full of playful, mouthwatering deliciousness. This is a wine which begs for shellfish, the staple seafood of the area, coming from, as the winemaker proclaims of Rias Baixas and the proximity to the ocean, "one of the world's most outstanding pantries". Drinking Albariño is like cozying up to the spray of the surf, and the warm sun on our backs. Yes, it's January, yes, it's New England, and yes this is a perfect dream stance to option. Summer will be here eventually. For now, pull out the Albariño, and put together a festival of seafood, and don't forget the sushi, and caviar. A little decadence post-holiday is always welcome. Available at both Wollaston Wine & Reservoir Wine.
2016 Enate Chardonnay '234' Somontano, Aragon $11.05 (sale) regularly $12.99 Situated in the northeast of Spain just west of Catalonia is the region of Aragon, and within it the appellation of Somontano, which means, 'beneath the mountains', aptly so as Somontano lies at of the foot of the Pyrenees. The Enate Estate began, in the winery's own words, "as a physical bridge between the art of the vine and human art." Enate is home to both a winery and a museum. Along with the museum housing works of art, each colorful, eye catching, and playful label is created from an original work of art by one of several Spanish artists. Spanish artist Pepe Cerdá was born in Huesca in Aragon, and created the beautiful watercolor and ink on paper, from which the label was made for the estate's single vineyard '234' un-oaked Chardonnay. While supple, there is a nice nerviness here, and balanced acidity, a lace of mineral, and while un-oaked, there is bounty of depth, plush tropical fruits, exotic fruits, as well fresh green apple and peach. This is a generous wine which coaxes comfort, a sumptuous, warm your heart white for roasted salmon, grilled chicken, or a regional classic like Aragonese sopa de ajo (garlic soup). Available at both Reservoir Wine & Wollaston Wine.
2013 Protos Tempranillo Crianza Ribera del Duero, Castilla y Lyon $20.40 (sale) regularly $23.99 Tempranillo, floral and bright with violet hue, is easy on the palate, and well capable of producing wines of depth. Protos began as a cooperative of 15 vine growers in the 1920's in the appellation of Ribera del Duero located north of Madrid in the region of Castilla y Leon. The cooperative was the first to make a wine labeled Ribera del Duero, which means 'bank of the river', and while they grow their own grapes, they also pledge support of additional, independent growers by purchasing their fruit to supplement their own. A word about ageing in Spain as Spanish law defines four categories for their wines: Joven indicates wines which may not have spent any time at all in oak and are intended for immediate release; Crianza indicates wines which must be aged a minimum of 2 years, with at least 6 months in small oak barrels; Reserva indicates wines aged a minimum of 3 years, with at least 12 months in small oak barrels; Gran Reserva wines are only produced in exceptional vintages, and must be aged a minimum of 4 years, with at least 18 months in small oak barrels. The Protos Crianza is playful with structure. Fragrant, with cherry, blackberry, plum, mocha, toast, it offers both soft fruit, and a lively acidity. Celebrate the cuisine of Castilla y Lyon and feast on suckling pig, roast lamb, and roasted mushrooms. Available at both Wollaston Wine & Reservoir Wine.
2012 Grupo Bodegas Olarra 'Nucerro' Reserva Rioja Alta, La Rioja $15.30 (sale) regularly $17.99 Grupo Bodegas Olarra is a large company in the appellation of Rioja Alta within the region of La Rioja, south of the Ebro River in north central Spain, close to the Basque region. Although the company is home to several different brands, their mission is precision and consistency, and they seek beauty and refinement with their many wines. Bodegas Olarra is the foundation of the company and their 'Nucerro' is a Tempranillo blend. Here, the Tempranillo brings a brightness, the Garnacha(Grenache) brings spice and warmth, the Mazuelo(Carignan) brings tannin, and the Graciano brings heightened fragrance. The styles typical of Rioja Alta are decidedly Old World, meaning they are less about forward radiant fruit, and more about tradition, layered, earthen nuance, depth of fruit. Charisma and pedigree. This is a Reserva, so expect more structure than a Crianza. The cuisine of the region, such as roasted red peppers stuffed with lamb, or a bean and chorizo stew, or smoked vegetables, would pair nicely. Available at both Reservoir Wine & Wollaston Wine.
2013 Bodegas Castaño 'Solanera Viñas Viejas' Yecla, Murcia $13.60 (sale) regularly $15.99 From the appellation of Yecla in the southeasterly region of Murcia, not far from the ocean, comes this absolute bargain of big, bold, elegant fruit, by way of Yecla's King grape varietal, Monastrell(Mourvedre). Here Monastrell is blended with a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon and Garnacha Tintorera(Grenache). The Castaño approach began with tradition first, and continues to this day unwavering, championing the region they call home, and the grape that reins proud in Spain. The Solanera comes from the oldest Monastrell vines on the estate. As Castaño has been dedicated to balance, both in growing grapes and producing wine, the results of the Solanera, year after year, shows dedication and winemaking finesse. This is a wine that is proud, stately, as well as refined. Deep dark fruit, bitter chocolate, a touch of spice, smooth and brooding, a confident and good looking wine. A regional dish in Murcia is cordero segureno con gurullos(rich lamb with pasta); vegetables are used widely here too, and not to be overlooked, as well the great Manchego cheese. All perfect to accompany a hearty wine. Available at both Wollaston Wine & Reservoir Wine.
