Living in Peru

LIVING IN

PERU

An Extra Shot www.livinginperu.com

August 2016 - Issue 12 Lima - Cusco

This paper is from sustainably managed forests and controlled sources -XX-XX

August 2016 - Issue 12

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Welcome to An Extra Shot! From the editor

Meet the team

When the entire country is rich with jewels, each one a national treasure, the hardest part about traveling is deciding where to go.

Carsten Korch - Founder of Living in Peru Natasha Clay - Calendar Agnes Rivera - Editor Silvana Loloy - Marketing and Sales Susana Aguirre - Contributor Flor Bojorquez - Contributor José Castro - Contributor Alex Mann - Contributor Alvaro Tassano - Contributor Contributing photographers: Erick Andía, José Castro, Robert Els, Iván G. Pérez Prado Eduardo Rivera - Contributing designer Julio Cesar Vergara - Graphic designer Isabel Cáceda Mendoza - Graphic designer

Yet somehow only a handful of destinations in Peru have become major draws for tourists, creating a geographical game of hopscotch; flights from Lima to Cusco, or bus rides from Cusco to Puno, skip over and around humble greats like Arequipa. While Arequipa is certainly not unheard of, it has yet to develop into a major tourist destination- a fact that has left nearly every Arequipeño (and the newfound residents of the White City) that we interviewed, feeling perplexed. Conserved architecture? Check. Nearby nature escapes? Check page 7. Typical plates to make you salivate? Bring me the check before I ask for seconds! Have we sold you yet? Good. Go for the aformentioned, traditional details, but stay for the new and evolving scene in Arequipa. As this month’s title suggests, there’s a different side of the city and it’s worth taking a look. Agnes Rivera Editor

You’ll see.

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Subscribe! Always on the go? So is Living in Peru! Take us with you wherever you may be: the office, the rain forest, an airport bathroom stall (sometimes being interesting has its price). Sign up for the daily digital newsletter today and stay informed, stay entertained, and stay connected! Visit us at livinginperu.com Living in Peru Livinginperu @Living.in.Peru Correction: Last month we forgot to include the contact info for the lifestyle blog, VeggieAna. Check it out if you know what’s good for you (or want to find out): Facebook (/veggieana) and Instagram (@veggieanablog)

CALENDAR Sunday

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Monday

Tuesday

Wednesday Thursday

Friday

Saturday

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Dia de la Pachamama (Mother Earth)

Grand Russian Circus Explanada C Jockey Plaza, Javier Prado with Calle Manuel Olguin, Surco (July 14 - Aug. 21)

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Arequipa is known for its colorful monastery, Colca Canyon and Misti volcano. Learn more about the White City and what there is to see on pg [6]

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El Taller Pâtisserie isn’t just about handing you any dessert. There’s a certain art to their perfect sweets, as you’ll see on pg [3]

28 Pole dancing is more than an exotic performance. Test your upper strength and face your fears with Katterin Workman on pg. [ 5]

Food is an important element for survival, but so is beer. Learn how to pair your beer with any meal on pg [ 11]

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9th World Congress on Mummy Studies Hotel Sol de Oro Calle San Martin 305, Miraflores (until the 13th)

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Pedro Guerra Teatro Pirandello, Av. Petit Thouars, Lima

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Jonas Kaufmann Gran Teatro Nacional, Av Javier Prado Este 2225, San Borja

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With her Day of the Dead-esque illustrations, Tania Brun is really turning heads with her art pg [4]

Anniversary of Arequipa

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30 Santa Rosa de Lima

25 Oxapampa Tourist Week (until the 31st)

Craft Beer Sessions Festival de Invierno Pedro de Osma 135, Barranco (12 - 13th)

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Jesse and Joy Jockey Club del Peru, Av. El Derby, Surco

Anniversary of Callao

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27 Juntos En Concerto VII Estadio Monumental, Av. Javier Prado Este, Ate

31 Laura Pausini Estadio Monumental, Av. Javier Prado Este, Ate

For more details and events, visit the Entertainment section on LivinginPeru.com


SPOTLIGHT

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EL TALLER PÂTISSERIE A workshop to discover new flavors

astry shop El Taller is composed of a seven-person team, each player intending to serve the best desserts, focussing not only on the flavors but using healthy supplies and offer competitive prices.

But what differentiates El Taller from other pastry shops? The answer is the spirit and passion with which they prepare their desserts. According to Raul Cenzano, director of El Taller, the traditional idea of a good dessert in Peru is bulky, extremely sweet and cheap. For him, however, a dessert should be much more than that; eating a dessert should be a rewarding experience that allows you to discover new flavors. “You do not need a dessert to survive; if you eat it it’s because you want to experiment new flavors.” That’s why in 2014 he began the adventure of opening his own bakery; from where he has proposed raising the quality of the ingredients and managing efficient production processes, in order to promote a pastry culture in Peru. An Arequipa native, Raul moved to Lima with his family when he finished school. In his new home (the living room to be exact) is where he began his first baking experiments. He would eventually choose to pursue this career because it allowed him to express his own language in a simple and faster way. “I found a means of expression in baking, [and] I liked it for its versatility and speed with which you can create something. It allowed me to develop my artistic side.”

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YOU DO NOT NEED A DESSERT TO SURVIVE; IF YOU EAT IT IT’S BECAUSE YOU WANT TO EXPERIMENT NEW FLAVORS

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What is really curious is that when we asked him about his favorite dessert, he told us that he doesn’t really like to eat desserts. In fact, his favorite one is something really simple: brownie with ice cream. He admits to missing Arequipeñean desserts, and we’re not talking about the famous “queso helado”; rather, buñuelos, alfajores, cocadas, and polvores - just to name a few. He recommends that if you travel to Arequipa you must try the “Alfajores de la cura” in the middle of the highway to complete the experience. But El Taller, as its name in Spanish says, aims to be exactly that, a workshop. Here we find a tidy space with all the necessary stations to follow an efficient production process of desserts, allowing them to save costs. Also, its members are in constant national and international training and looking to be at the forefront of the latest trends in pastry. All of them dream of seeing Peru compete in a world championship in the near future. And what’s even better, they have an open door policy. Junior bakers who want to learn are welcomed, and receive useful tips, inputs, recipes, and general knowledge. The workshop also has contact with NGOs and associations that send teenagers who want to learn, resulting in a chain of learning. “I see nothing wrong with sharing a recipe; it is important to share information, so knowledge can transcend. After all, the important thing is the touch that each individual has.” This year, El Taller has opened its doors to the public with a boutique in the new hall of the Jockey Plaza mall and hopes to surprise all its visitors with curious flavors. Give them a visit and get ready to delight your palates. El Taller Javier Prado Este 4200 Jockey Plaza Facebook (/eltallerpatisserie)

Silvana Loloy Photos courtesy of El Taller


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Dark engravings from the White City An artist from Arequipa shares her creative world with black and white images inspired by nature.

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ania Brun prefers to showcase her artwork in artisanal beer halls rather than pristine, uninviting and clinically white art galleries. She feels more at ease lost in the crowd at loud impromptu punk shows instead of quiet spaces where, she says, “I am aware of all of my thoughts.” One of her favorite places to visit in her hometown of Arequipa is La Campiña, the countryside in the outskirts of the city, which allows her to escape the racket of its growing urbanization. Indeed, Tania is an artist that has gone off the beaten path and, despite her inclination towards less social activities, her creations continue to captivate many and hold a magnetic appeal. “I feel a little apart from the [traditional] artistic world. I have friends who participate in various activities but I feel like I am in a bubble; I have a solitary character,” she admits. Tania is an imaginative illustrator whose introversion has perhaps allowed her to create images that touch upon very personal yet universal concepts and emotions. The duality of life and death has been a constant in her work, as well as the beautiful accidents that happen in between. “My mother’s family was artistically inclined, and she would have me draw to entertain myself as a child. It all started from there,” she explains. Not only did Tania’s mother help spark her creative vigor, her mother’s death also played an important role in her artwork. “Since a trip to Mexico in 2007, I started drawing a lot of calaveras [colorful skulls depicted in Mexican art, especially in Day of the Dead celebrations],” she continues. “What I liked about Mexico is that for most people, death was viewed as something normal, natural,

a part of life. I also saw this in the highlands of Peru, in the sierra. As a creative outlet this helped me process the death of my mother. I became more interested in the philosophical aspect of death, too. There’s this ancient artistic expression, memento mori [a practice of including a skull in drawings as a reminder of one’s mortality that originated in Ancient Rome]; it’s interesting how the theme appears time and again in different cultures.”

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WHAT I LIKED ABOUT MEXICO IS THAT FOR MOST PEOPLE, DEATH WAS VIEWED AS SOMETHING NORMAL, NATURAL, A PART OF LIFE. I ALSO SAW THIS IN THE HIGHLANDS OF PERU, IN THE SIERRA

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ART & CULTURE

Thanks to a course she took last year, Tania’s work has evolved thematically and her medium of choice is now engravings, grabados. “The professor of the course is brilliant. He prohibited me from drawing more calaveritas,” she amusingly recalls. “It was challenging at first, but now I see that it was very helpful.” Her recent artwork includes nature as a concept, with depictions of flowers and also animals.

“There’s a huaco (pre-Columbian pottery) of a deer from the Mochica culture that I saw in Cusco. In many cultures the deer has great significance. I did a drawing of this huaco and behind it I drew a sky full of stars and the Orion constellation [named after the hunter Orion in Greek mythology]. I put the deer and the hunter together: two parts of everything, two aspects/compliments of a person.” Tania’s artistic career is marked by moments of personal connections and meaning that is often lost in artists who create with ambitions of exhibiting in traditional, institutionalized outlets. One type of work that she holds dear to her heart is illustrating album covers. “A lot of my friends are musicians, it’s some of the work that I’m most proud of. I did a cover for the Peruvian tropical, psychedelic, electronic band Dengue Dengue Dengue. It also gives me great joy that a larger audience in other parts of the world sees this kind of work that I do. Another band I’ve worked with is Aeropajitas, a punk band from Lima. They released a vinyl record that I illustrated; it was a beautiful experience.” See Tania’s work at Chelawasi Public House, and follow her on Facebook, /iggymunralatake.

Susana Aguirre Images courtesy of artist


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LIFESTYLE

Give change a spin Sexy? Sure, but this physical sport is all about empowerment and confronting fears.

Katterin Workman is also completely in love with her job. For one and a half years Katterin has called Luna Llena, a secondfloor dance studio in San Lazaro, her own: small, bright, and full of energy - just like the owner herself. As a young child growing up in Peru’s most populous district, San Juan de Lurigancho, Katterin found serenity in ballet and contemporary dance classes. Developing not only a passion and talent that have stuck with her today, Katterin (or ‘Kat’) picked up important life lessons along the way. “I grew up with the mirror in front of me and learned very early on that all bodies are different... Maybe my friend, the girl next to me, would be taller, have more extension, but I had to work with what I had. I needed to find acceptance in that.”

After living in Costa Rica for some time, Katterin and her husband, Casey Workman (owner of Arequipa’s popular watering-hole, Chelawasi), spent some time living in Casey’s hometown of Portland, Oregon, U.S.. Though she says she’s always been attracted to pole-dancing, it wasn’t until their move to the northwestern state that she began to take classes - paid for by exchanging class time for Spanish lessons with her teacher.

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I GREW UP WITH THE MIRROR IN FRONT OF ME AND LEARNED VERY EARLY ON THAT ALL BODIES ARE DIFFERENT

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I’m completely Peruvian. My father is from Huancayo, my mother from the selva, and I was born on the coast.”

“I had great teachers in Portland...some of my fellow classmates had really big boobs, curves, but they could do everything and moved so well...it was really inspiring.” Integrating cardio and resistance, pole dancing is a complete workout. “You’re going to see results after just one month,” Katterin insists. Using your arms to lift and then spin your body around is not as easy as it looks, even if experienced dancers make it look sexy while doing it. So, if it’s not about sex appeal, why do those who practice it seem to wear next to nothing? It’s all

about getting a good grip, as the skin provides traction and hold. Though new students are often shy on the first day of class to strip down to revealing clothing in front of classmates, the proud instructor says that soon her students are anxious to get in the studio and take off all their uncomfortable layers of clothes.

towards competing in the 2017 edition of the South American Pole Dancing Championships.

Katterin calls herself a “mover” - perhaps in more ways than one considering the many countries she has lived in and traveled to thanks to her talent in dance. Highly athletic and constantly moving, whether it be dancing or instructing students in a range of courses (ballet to crossfit), Katterin doesn’t have lost hope for those who aren’t a sporty type.

“If you’re just travelling through and feel the need to stretch or take a trial class, don’t hesitate.”

Until then, Katterin reassures her studio Luna Llena is very open to new-comers.

Luna Llena Facebook.com/LunaLleena Calle Ayacucho 10, Arequipa

“If you’ve never done sports in your life, you can do pole dancing, it will just take you longer... [and] believe me, pole dancing really defines your muscles.” Oh, we believe her. With her sparkling eyes and strong, lean dancer’s body, Katterin is a sight to take in - as we noted the day she confidently did gymnastic poses in front of historic buildings and churches in the traditional plazas of Arequipa. It was certainly clear that pole dancing and all its forms are less about sex appeal and more about empowerment. In November Katterin plans to travel to Buenos Aires, Argentina - a place she refers to as “South America’s mecca for pole dancing.” She plans to watch, learn, and make connections, with an eye

Agnes Rivera Photos by Erick Andia


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TRAVEL

White City Wonder A Magical Blend of Culture and Nature

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And get ready for the sights you can taste. As you make your way through the stone streets, the unmistakable smells of the local food will catch your attention. Rocoto Relleno - a red pepper stuffed with ground beef, cheese, and various Peruvian spices- or the Ocopa- a spicy, peanut-flavored sauce served with potatoes- are just some of the signature dishes of the region. Find them at any classic picanteria (though we are partial to La Capitana and El Mundial). But food isn’t the only unique thing you will find as you make your way through the city. A new culture brewed by new and innovative businesses have helped create a unique atmosphere for entrepreneurs and artists. For many, the White City is seen merely as a pit stop before heading out to the real adventure in the nearby Colca Canyon.

AS YOU MAKE YOUR WAY THROUGH THE STONE STREETS, THE UNMISTAKABLE SMELLS OF THE LOCAL FOOD WILL CATCH YOUR ATTENTION

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With gorgeous Spanish style architecture adorning the City Center, the so-called White City is a must. The nickname comes from the distinct facades made from ashlar, a unique material made from the volcanic white stone from the Misti. At the center, stunning archways and portals decorate the contour of the Plaza de Armas, crowned by the 17th century cathedral in the middle. Enjoy it and take a walk around - cars and other vehicles are prohibited from entering the main Plaza.

About a four hour drive from the city, sitting at 4500 m.a.s.l., and twice as deep as the Grand Canyon, the Colca and surrounding areas offer visitors some of the most breathtaking views in all of Peru. Once there, the sights and sounds of nature take over. The green carpeted mountains and flush blue sky combine to create a magical landscape, however it’s the canyon’s sky-high

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A NEW CULTURE BREWED BY NEW AND INNOVATIVE BUSINESSES HAVE HELPED CREATE A UNIQUE ATMOSPHERE FOR ENTREPRENEURS AND ARTISTS

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hen you first think of Arequipa, you probably picture images of white coated houses, delicious food and the imposing Misti Volcano. Yet, a new wave of unique businesses and shops have sparked up a new culture of buzzling commerce, contributing to the already unique tastes of the city that have been around for centuries.

resident, the Andean Condor, that is most revered. This winged creature can be seen at fairly close range as they glide through the precipices. To watch them in their natural habitat, is an unbelievable experience, but it takes a little sacrifice. Visitors must get up before 6:00 a.m when strong rising thermal winds are most prevalent. Endless paths, and trails zigzag their way through the valley. Avid trekkers will have no problem finding a unique adventure as no single hike is the same. Settlements and village pepper the valley slopes, each providing a glimpse into their rural communities. Where to stay when you make it to the bottom? Venture to the next page...

Alvaro Tassano Photos by Erick Andia

August 2016 - Issue 12 - PUBLIREPORTAJE

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Enchanted Village This getaway is worth the trek.

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uzzled in between the crevasses of the Colca Canyon, lies a unique place, where visitors can enjoy the wondrous beauty of the surrounding valley in a secluded, eco friendly setting. El Pueblito Encantado (The Enchanted Village) offers visitors a unique experience to enjoy this already magical landscape. As the name suggests, the hotel has a small town feel to it, providing guests with all amenities to make for an ideal stay. Preaching the theme “harmony with nature,” El Pueblito Encantado tries to minimize its impact on the environment as much as possible. The hotel is now 20% self-sustained by using biodegradable products, cultivating their own fresh produce, and even implementing solar panels to heat up their trucha (trout) fishing pond. The dishes available will pleasantly surprise any guest as it includes some of the more iconic dishes of the region, as well as their own delicious creations. Empanadas, rocoto relleno, ceviche de trucha and pastel de semola are just some of the savory delights, all made from produce harvested

by the hotel. Aside from the delicious food, guests can be entertained in the kitchen by participating in the very popular pisco sour making classes, held twice a day. Beautiful flowers sprinkle the hillside around the hotel. You can almost taste the clean air as you walk through the shiny green meadows. It’s an ideal destination to relax, unplug from the world, and plunge into nature. The surrounding areas provide adventurers endless paths and treks to explore. Some of the sites visitors can enjoy are the Coporaque tombs, cave paintings, the ruins of Uyo Uyo and the landscapes surrounding Cancota, a beautiful turquoise lake at the foot of the canyon. Visitors can’t leave without the opportunity to watch Condors in their natural habitat as they glide near the cliffs’ edge in the early morning hours. Its unique location in one of Peru’s most breathtaking landscapes offers visitors the opportunity to be submerged by all nature has to offer: its enchanting sights, colors and sounds. From relaxing by the pool, enjoying the traditional food, to exploring the endless paths of the valley, there is something for everyone to enjoy. Guests are recommended to visit El Pueblito Encantado after they’ve had a chance to stay in Arequipa. This is not only because the city is usually your first destination once you arrive, but because it will

help you get acclimated to the altitude, as the hotel sits at about 4200-4500 m.a.s.l.. Conditions are pleasant all year, although it’s advised to try to avoid the rainy months between November and May. Alvaro Tassano

PUBLIREPORTAJE - August 2016 - Issue 12

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BUSINESS

ESAN, a gateway to the international business world

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rom doubledegree agreements to a variety of study abroad opportunities, many fields of study to choose from to an elite international network, the ESAN Graduate Business School is Peru’s premier option for discovering and conquering the international business world. Armando Borda Reyes, director of the International MBA at ESAN, outlined why ESAN is the top choice for both Peruvian and international students. In what way do the International MBA students interact with professionals from all over the world? During the entire program in different formats. Students share the classroom with people from different countries from the first day. For instance, since 2014, we’ve received students from more than 20 countries (Canada, USA, Mexico, Brazil, Argentina, Chile, France, Germany, England, China, etc.) and in this year alone, there are nine nationalities represented in the classroom.

only for exchange agreements but also for double degrees. ESAN´s MBA program has already the largest number of double degrees available in the Peruvian Market and it is working continuously to expand their international network to fulfill with its mission: to educate highly qualified upright leaders and professionals with critical sense and global vision.

Additionally, our students get to participate in two International Weeks, which are important events here at ESAN, where postgraduate students from different universities around the world receive classes from topnotch foreign professors.

What double degree programs do you offer and which are the most popular?

Our students also can take advantage of more than 60 exchange agreements and ten double degrees.

ESAN offers 10 double degree programs. Three of them from the USA (FIU, UT Austin, University of Dallas), four from France (IESEG, EDHEC, ESC Clermont, Montpellier Business School), one from Belgium (ICHEC), one from Germany (HHL), and this year we signed a new one with the University of Nagoya in Japan.

Does the International MBA faculty include professors from abroad?

ESAN has an extensive list of accolades and awards, which ones stand out to you? We are proud of all the awards that we have received. We believe that they recognize our leading role in forming top executives in Latin America. ESAN has been ranked as the best MBA in Peru and one of the best in the region for seven years consecutively. We also belong to the most exclusive networks in management education. Being part of networks such as PIM (Partnership in International

Our candidates usually are between 28-35 years old, have a minimum of 3-year corporate experience and are fluent in English. We are looking for people with excellent academic and professional potential, who are interested in studying abroad and who aim to be a future leader not only in Peru but also above and beyond our national boundaries.

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ESAN HAS BEEN RANKED AS THE BEST MBA IN PERU AND ONE OF THE BEST IN THE REGION FOR SEVEN YEARS CONSECUTIVELY. WE ALSO BELONG TO THE MOST EXCLUSIVE NETWORKS IN MANAGEMENT EDUCATION

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All of our professors, regardless of their country of origin, are fluent in English and have postgraduate diplomas. It’s important to highlight as well that most of our local faculty studied their Ph.D. abroad in well-recognized universities. Finally, our international faculty comes from diverse countries such as USA, France and New Zealand without considering the professors that we invite in our international weeks.

What does ESAN look for in a prospective student?

Management) allows us to establish relationships with top tier universities that are reflected in our exchange and double degree opportunities available. Finally, ESAN is internationally accredited by two of the most important bodies in business administration: the AACSB and AMBAS. What kind of relationship does ESAN have with its many partner schools? We have very close relations with our partners. Being fairly active internationally and having students that excel during their study abroad programs strengthen our relations with universities worldwide. These assets are fairly important to build long lasting relations with our partners. Further, they allow us to expand our relations with more high quality institutions not

Tell me more about the double-degree agreements? What are the advantages of getting a double degree? Our students, who go on a double degree, spend the first half of the program here at ESAN, and then they travel to the double degree destination for the second half of the program (which varies from 8 to 12 months). The advantages of participating in one are life changing: not only do you get to know a new country, a new culture, build new relationships, but you also get to learn how the business world works from another point of view, which makes you a valuable asset on the job market.

The International MBA opened 3 years ago, have some of your students already found work abroad or in Peru? Yes, we are proud to see that our students who went on a double degree are founding opportunities overseas. We currently have Peruvian students working in Germany (Osram, Mr Spex), in France (Assystem), and in the USA (DELL), among others. Alex Mann


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FASHION

Maira Jimena: Fashion forward Aesthetic and minimalistic; modern with a handcrafted feeling - this desinger and textile lover wants to show you how.

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MY PARENTS WERE AGAINST MY BECOMING A FASHION DESIGNER. THEY SAW NO FUTURE IN IT

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The face behind the name greeted me with a disarming smile. As she took us on a tour the warmth that radiated from her friendly, outgoing demeanor was mirrored in every way to that of her studio and atelier - from the high ceilings and handcrafted wood details, to the carefully planned architectural design that allowed natural light to stream in from every side. Although new to the local fashion scene, she carries a whirlwind of experience under her belt. Her studies have taken her to some of the best fashion schools in the world, including Parsons School of Design in New York, and Central Saint Martins in London, doing serious work with major giants in the industry that is sure to make any aspiring designer envious to the bone. She showed us some of her previous work which consisted of a colorful complex series of intricate weavings, Japanese dyeing techniques with playful designs that come to life, and her knitwear collection that sat on display in the famed Saks Fifth Avenue store.

As she spoke passionately about her life and plans in the industry, her vision was clear. She is slowly breaking through the old-fashioned, culturally-bent ice of what is the typical Lima fashion scene and helping to bring a fresh approach to art. What got you into fashion? Fourteen years ago fashion here was very cultural and undeveloped. To say you wanted to be a fashion designer was like opting for a low-level job. I studied at the Roosevelt high school here and for my thesis I chose art, based on textile communities in the jungle. That was where it all began, the start of my love for art. What were your studies like? Well, my parents were against my becoming a fashion designer. They saw no future in it. They pushed me to study economics. I got accepted into Harvard and studied economics for a year, but I hated it. I had a collection of 22 paintings which I had put together and without my parents knowing, I used those paintings to apply for the Parsons School of Design in NY, and got accepted.

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OUR STUDIO’S SLOGAN IS `NOTHING IS CONSTANT’ AND THAT’S HOW I FEEL ABOUT MY WORK. I LIKE TO LET THINGS FLOW

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was given the task of decoding the brilliant mind of Maira Jimena, creator of a new studio in the heart of Miraflores. A place unlike any other, the Maira Jimena Studio is aimed at introducing techniques and skills that can be appreciated by anyone in the field of art and design.

How did you eventually get into teaching? My first teaching experience came when I was asked to teach fashion at Parsons Paris, and I absolutely loved it. I loved teaching, guiding and sharing everything I know. When I

came to Peru, teaching was my first option. I had many offers from big schools here, but when I was presented with the teaching syllabus it was just so opposite to everything I learned. There were so many restrictions and limitations. Too many limitations don’t allow creation.

with fabrics, Japanese dyeing techniques, ice dyeing with crystals, textile art, experimental draping etc. We also teach digital fashion and we have a new course called 3D fashion. You can design your own accessories and print it in 3D. It will be really cool! We also help students To get to know the fashion industry I took a job at create fashion portfolios for their thesis or ModArt, because I felt they pushed the most creativity masters. out of all the schools. And who are these courses for? Is it just Tell me about your studio. What made you decide to for fashion students? open one? No. It is open to anyone who is passionate While working in ModArt I started a seminar called about design. We have both older and “Fashion in the age of technology”. It was a big hit younger students and not all of them are in and we repeated the seminar 4 or 5 times! That’s fashion school or aspiring designers. Some when I decided to create my own studio with classes do have a base in fashion, but most different designers who offer workshops with very of them can be applied to any field in art. straightforward information students will need in the Our studio’s slogan is “Nothing is constant” industry. I bought some space and made the decision and that’s how I feel about my work. I like to build it from top to bottom. Every little detail is my to let things flow. design. I wanted it to be aesthetic and minimalistic; modern with a handcrafted feeling. Maira Jimena Studio Calle Chiclayo 563, Miraflores The courses you teach aren’t something you’d find in a www.mairajimena.com fashion school here. Can you tell me a bit about that? Flor Bojorquez

I teach a bit of everything. I teach marbling design Photos: Iván G. Pérez Prado where students can learn different kinds of dyeing


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EVENTS

De París a Arequipa A must-see art exhibition in the White City

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panish Colonial Art was a remarkable artistic achievement and it was also a paradoxical one. From one side, it was produced in the overseas provinces of the Spanish Empire by colonial artists who had never been in Europe. From the other, it adhered, rather closely, to European aesthetic and content canons. However, this paradox admits of a simple answer: Colonial artists used European engravings as models for their creations. This month the stunning Monasterio de Santa Catalina de Arequipa, a 16th century colonial citadel, predominantly built in the Mudejar style and covering two hectares in the city center, will launch an art exhibition illustrating the importance of French engravings in the creation of paintings produced in Colonial Cuzco. Titled De

París a Arequipa: Fuentes Grabadas del Arte Colonial Arequipeño, the art show will certainly be beautiful and explanatory, as it features more than twenty Cuzco School paintings, alongside the French engravings that inspired them. The engravings were produced in two workshops operating in Paris in the 17th century, placed very close to each other, in the middle of the Parisian Quartier Latin — the University District of the city. Visitors to this exhibition will also learn more about the daily life and religious practices of colonial Latin America, where the production of religious art was centered on high-end pieces for

Enjoy your favorite coffee at home with any of our whole bean bags at Jessica de Pomar

S/

20

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We’ll grind it for you!

Disfruta tu café favorito en casa con cualquiera de nuestras bolsas de café en grano a S/ 20 ¡Nosotros lo molemos para ti! ADMISSION FREE.

IS

The art exhibition De París a Arequipa: Fuentes Grabadas del Arte Colonial A r e q u i p e ñ o is organized and curated by Almerindo Ojeda Di Ninno, Director of Project for the Engraved Sources of Spanish Colonial Art (PESSCA). For more details, visit colonialart.org.

churches, monasteries, local nobility or wealthy individuals. This show will feature two distinct series of paintings. One of them deals with the Life and Miracles of Saint Catherine of Siena, the patron saint of the monastery hosting the show; the other is a series of anchorites, saintly individuals that decided to leave society to lead a life of prayer, penance and religious study. The art show will run from August 10 to November 15, 2016 and it is a wonderful occasion to enjoy and learn from the arts in the outstanding and quiet environment of this monastery, where flowers bloom all over the place and delicate frescoes decorate the ceilings of the covered walkways that surround the charming plazas painted in yellow, orange, red or blue colours. Jessica de Pomar


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FOOD

High-rise beers and bites

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INDULGENCE’S SPEECH IS MUCH BETTER UNDERSTOOD IN SILENCE

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“Potatoes are native to the highlands,” says Cecilia Guerra, managing partner at Hatunpa, a restaurant with an interesting approach based on the millennial Andean tubers. Indeed, slices of assorted steamed potatoes are laid on each plate and then topped with a dish of the diner’s choice. Ocopa, ají de gallina,

lomo saltado, and many other traditional dishes of Peruvian cuisine are on the list. “There are 5,500 types of potatoes in the world, 3,550 of which are grown in Peru, and only 600 are grown by farmers,” lists Cecilia. “At Hatunpa, we have used up to 25 potato varieties so far, and between 3 and 7 are served in each dish,” she adds.

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This seems to be the perfect setting to feature a solterito de queso on top of six THEIR FLAVORS ARE potato varietals ENHANCED HERE AT —beso de novia, ALMOST 8000 FEET sangre de toro, leona, compis, ABOVE SEA LEVEL peruanita, and negrita— and make up a unique blend of Peruvian crops. To go with the cheese, lima beans, olives, and tomatoes, there is a bottle of Cerveza Machay’s León, brewed in Arequipa with added mint leaves. Its mild minty aroma and herbal taste match the solterito’s mix of flavors and textures in such a way that it is hard to keep the conversation going. Indulgence’s speech is much better understood in silence. Still I manage to listen to Cecilia recount how César Torres, her business partner, got the idea to this innovative way of restaurateuring from the jacket potatoes he had in the Netherlands.

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ightseeing in the beautiful city of Arequipa is a true pleasure, even if you have to pace up and down its streets armed with a camera, a notebook, and a pen. But do not even attempt to start off without the nourishment of an Arequipeño breakfast. Local rolls of bread, hot tea, and fruit juice are set on the table, but the real show-stoppers are the adobo arequipeño and the shot of anisado as a wash-itdown digestif. Once everything has kicked in, it is time to admire the Main Square, the Cathedral, the City Hall and all the colonial casonas that surround the plaza. As lunchtime flies in, I walk down Calle San Francisco, leaving behind Pasaje de la Catedral and its welcoming trees, walking past Calle Moral and its cozy hotels, and turning left onto Calle Ugarte where a savory surprise awaits.

After such a wonderful experience, I set out and head to Calle Santa Catalina, then take a right and walk down to Óvalo San Lázaro. On my right, I meet a two-street fork: the one on the left is Callejón Los Cristales and Callejón Bayoneta is on the right. Both streets have sillar-slabbed walls and rockpaved roads. I choose left and start a sloping uphill walk towards Chelawasi, the local public house, almost in the heart of the neighborhood known as San Lázaro. Casey Workman, the publican, was born and raised in Portland, Oregon, the state with the most craft breweries in the U.S. Casey curates craft beers brewed in the Peruvian Andes such as Melkim and Machay from Arequipa, Cervecería del Valle Sagrado and Zenith from Cusco, and Sierra Andina from Ancash. Having tasted all these beers in Lima, I have to say that their flavors are enhanced here at almost 8000 feet above sea level. But Chelawasi also caters to those who crave for a good bite. Their chicken wings —locally called ‘alitas’— come served with barbecue, hot avocado, and sweet mango & ginger sauces. For my beer-pairing interests I chose the Wasi Hamburguesa, a juicy grilled patty of ground beef clad in a fried egg blanket and served, of course, in a bread bun next to an assortment of French fries made with yams and peruanita, lomo azul, and huayro potatoes. “We believe in giving local products a boost,” says Casey. So what can be better than an Irish-style red ale brewed in Arequipa to go with the hamburger? Melkim’s Melgar features the necessary caramelly, malty flavors that harmonize with the hearty taste of the hamburger while still keeping the desired bitterness that makes you want to have another big sip.

It is time to say farewell to the The White City and thank my hosts for their bubbly hospitality. The memories of this quick but fruitful trip will remain impregnated in both retinas and taste buds as colorful exhibits of Arequipa’s old and new traditions. Great beers have been available across Peru for some time now, and I daresay they taste better when enjoyed in the same city they are brewed in. So start planning your next trip and get ready to be surprised as they might literally knock you off your feet. Everything is up to you now.

STILL THIRSTY IN AQP? FIND CRAFT BEER HERE: Hatunpa Calle Ugarte 208 Chelawasi Public House 102 Campo Redondo, San Lazaro Chaqchao Organic Chocolates Calle Santa Catalina 204 Melkim Brewery Urb. Magnopata A-8, Yanahuara La Rotonda Taproom Plaza Campo Redondo Nro 100, San Lazaro

José Castro Top photos by Robert Els, photos within article by José Castro