November 2016 - Scandinavian Traveler [PDF]

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Nov 8, 2016 - SKIING TIPSLearn from the best | THOM HELLA true traveler. FRUIT FOR ... 10 november 2016 scandinavian traveler the november issue. 34 .... Danish designer Gitte Carlend is hosting an inspi- ... Scandinavian Traveler is a magazine published 12 times a year and a daily updated website produced by.
FOR THE MODERN TRAVELER FROM SCANDINAVIAN AIRLINES | NOVEMBER 2016

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Getting personal Linn Ullmann rediscovers herself and her parents

FURNITURE FANATICS Meet the Hays | US ELECTION How it all works SALZBURG Christmas markets | NORWAY Ski and sail SKIING TIPS Learn from the best | THOM HELL A true traveler FRUIT FOR THOUGHT Froosh smoothies | SAS DREAMS Fulfill your fantasy

“ YOU CAN NEVER BE TOO LOUD.” SARAH KENDALL A W A R D - W I N N I N G S TA N D - U P C O M E D I A N

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W W W. O L E L Y N G G A A R D . C O M

scandinavian traveler the november issue

CONTENTS like the magazine? take it with you. don’t worry, we’ll give the next traveler a new copy

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Peak adventure

Take a combined ski and sailing adventure deep into the Norwegian fjords and high into the mountains.

AND THERE’S MORE

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november 2016

It’s time for Christmas magic. TISSOT CHEMIN DES TOURELLES AUTOMATIC.

BOUTIQUES: PARIS — LONDON — NEW YORK — BEIJING — HONG KONG — SINGAPORE — NEW DELHI — DUBAI — MOSCOW — ZURICH

T I S S OT watc h e s . C O M TISSOT, INNOVATORS BY TRADITION

scandinavian traveler the november issue

Contents 17 Shortcuts

Winter spas, dark food, lucky places, upcoming events.

26 Danish design

Meet Rolf and Mette Hay, the design duo behind Danish furniture company HAY.

36 American stories

Take a road trip to some of ­America’s key historic sites.

40 Seasonal Salzburg

Get the lowdown on the best Christmas markets in Salzburg.

84 Smooth operators

Find out how a smoothie company is helping reduce world poverty.

44 The daughter’s story

Norwegian author Linn Ullmann discusses her latest novel, a powerful letter to her parents.

55 Food history

British chef Heston Blumenthal celebrates the history of food.

58 Adventures in Ålesund Combine sailing and skiing on a trip to Norway’s beautiful coast.

64 Tips for skiing success

Skiing stars Anna Haag and ­Henrik Kristoffersen give their advice for success on the slopes.

34 Swing votes

Confused how the US ­election works? Become an ­expert with our simple guide.

74 Raising Hell

Norwegian musician Thom Hell proves he is a true traveler.

78 Flying into the future

Discover how SAS is prioritizing customer comfort and sustainability with its short- and medium-haul fleet upgrade.

91 Checkmate

Play the world chess c­ ­hampion from your airplane seat.

96 Daydreams

With SAS Dreams, EuroBonus members can live out their dreams.

105 SAS 70

Smoking stories.

96 Flight guide

Ask the pilot, EuroBonus, maps and more.

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At home with perfection. Created through the perfect marriage of form and function.

To see what else bulthaup kitchens have to offer, please contact your local retail partner: Stockholm, B & G Inredningar AB, Karlavägen 72, Sweden Göteborg, mimmo p l a n ab, Terrassgatan 5, Sweden Helsingborg, Ekstedt Kök & Arkitektur AB, Hälsovägen 5, Sweden Oslo, b-kjøkkenstudio a/s, Elisenbergveien 11, Norway Copenhagen, CasaShop A/S, Store Regnegade 2, Denmark Reykjavík, Eirvik ehf., Sudurlandsbraut 20, Iceland www.bulthaup.com

scandinavian traveler the november issue

MORE CONTENT additional articles, travel tips, interactive maps, video and much more at scandinaviantraveler.com

Flying on the autopilot

Most people think that the ­autopilot automatically flies the aircraft on its own with just the push of a button, but that’s not the whole story. Read more at scandinaviantraveler.com

Beat your fear of flying Happy Hong Kong

Everywhere you turn in Hong Kong there’s a cool bar offering great deals for late-afternoon eating and drinking. Check out the city’s best happy hours at scandinaviantraveler.com

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di Rupic is afraid of ­flying. His cousin is SAS pilot David ­Vojnovic, who unsur-

prisingly is pretty relaxed about being in the air. Together they have written Fear of Flying for ­Beginners to help ­others

o­ vercome this common modern ­phobia. Read more about David ­Vojnovic and his book at ­scandinaviantraveler.com

Offbeat Denmark

The National Gallery of ­Denmark, the National Museum of Denmark and the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art are all excellent. But have you ever ­visited the Potato Museum? Or seen Denmark’s largest collection of money boxes? Find ­Denmark’s quirkiest museums at scandinaviantraveler.com

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Child-friendly Copenhagen

It’s easy to take the family on a trip to the Danish capital without breaking the bank. Read about the 10 best things you can do for free with the kids in Copenhagen at ­scandinaviantraveler.com

Rooftop bars

The men behind therooftopguide.com really know their ­rooftop bars. They share their ­favorites at scandinaviantraveler.com

november 2016

UNLEASH THE ARTIST IN YOU PINK PANTHER

BOMBAY SAPPHIRE AND TONIC, ADD GRAPEFRUIT JUICE, VANILLA SUGAR & GARNISH WITH A GRAPEFRUIT SLICE

– THE ULTIMATE GIN AND TONIC WITH A CREATIVE TWIST.

find your ultimate gin & tonic with a creative twist in the following bars throughout the nordics sweden: gothenburg drink 20, the temple, noba, Viva, kungstorget, spisa kalmar krögers karlstad bar teatral, blå malmö mello yello, chill out lounge, paddys, mosaik, grappa stockholm rigoletto, nosh & chow, supper, broken, monkey bar visby lingården norway: bergen biblioteket, taket, jacob all, zachariasbryggen haugesund winehouse, zensa kristiansand frk larsen, tollboden, bakgården bar, rederiet kristiansund bar og sånn (grand hotel), bryggekanten brasserie og bar, havnekontoret molde glass oslo bar tjuvolmen, pinerolo cantina, jaeger, bjørungs, cafe sør, frokostkjelleren, heidi´s bierbar, karusell bar, la boheme, onda tromsø gründer, clarion hotel the edge, frost, no.24, flyt trondheim barmuda, clarion congress skybar, clarion olavs kvartalet, cowsea, down town bar, down town club, eld ålesund terminalen finland: helsinki maxine, hotel kämp, southpark oulu cocktail company tampere minibaari turku shooters bar, tårget Vaasa fontana denmark: copenhagen bar 7, bar fly, barcelona, bodega, cafe sekseren, cafe zakabona, celcius, frem, guldfasanen, kb3, kul, le sommelier, lulu, mash penthouse, rezidor, urban house odense city club, cafe kræs, chuckos cafe, piano bar, cafe chino

D R I N K

R E S P O N S I B L Y

BOMBAY AND BOMBAY SAPPHIRE ARE REGISTERED TRADEMARKS.

scandinavian traveler xxx xxx

scandinavian traveler the november issue

CONTRIBUTORS

ABSALON HOTEL ABSOLUTE HEAVEN Located in Copenhagen, one of the design capitals of the world, the completely renovated Absalon Hotel fits right in. Combining classical architecture with the colourful, modern textiles and wallpapers of the award-winning Designers Guild, the hotel has a contemporary yet cosy feel. For that extra bit of luxury, choose one of the superior rooms (pictured above). More than 75 years ago, the hotel opened for the first time and the founders’ granddaughter, Karen Nedergaard, remains as General Manager today. ”The design is a key selling point”, she says.

Ellinor Thunberg

Rasmus Flindt Pedersen

Writer Ellinor writes about design and architecture for Swedish and international magazines. She’s been following the work of the Danish design duo HAY, who she wrote about for this issue, for years and never misses a visit to HAY House when in ­Copenhagen. “It was a pleas­ure to meet Rolf and Mette. They have created a design company with perfect attention to even the smallest detail and they bring beautiful and functional design to the people.”

Photographer Rasmus is an award-winning freelance photographer based in Copenhagen. Earlier this year, his work portraying the European refugee crisis won First Prize in the Danish Photo of the Year 2015/2016 competition for best foreign reportage. ­Rasmus also specializes in ­editorial portraits. For this issue, he photographed Anna Hagemann Rise from Froosh, the smoothie company that passionately supports farmers in the developing world.

Jessica Johansson

Magnus Jönsson

With the über trendy neighbourhood of Vesterbro on its doorstep, the hotel is in the perfect position to help you find what’s new in Copenhagen. Being in the city centre means you have easy access to the best sights, and the many restaurants nearby. Of course you don’t need to leave the hotel to have a good time. The talented bartenders at Absalon Bar will make sure to impress you with delicious cocktails and a cosy atmosphere. Plus, come September, Copenhagen is all about art and design and you can get your fill in the hotel itself. Famous Danish designer Gitte Carlend is hosting an inspirational design evening on 20 September at 5 pm.

Writer/editor Swedish writer Jessica ­Johansson loves food and drink. She has written numerous articles about these interests for magazines including Vin&Sprit Journalen. In this issue of Scandinavian Traveler, Jessica wrote about smoothie company Froosh, whose staff love fruit and want to help reduce poverty in the developing world through trade with fruit farmers.

Photographer For the last year, Magnus has been based in Sydney. Missing some European winter wea­ ther, he was happy to visit ­Mozart’s hometown, Salzburg, for this issue. “Salzburg is a wonderful and beautiful winter city and I hope to visit again in the summer, especially since neither Sofia, the writer, nor I managed to buy Mozart balls or visit the house where he was born.”

Copenhagen

Absalon Hotel, Helgolandsgade 15, DK-1653 Copenhagen V, +45 33 31 43 44, [email protected] 14

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T I M E L E Sscandinavian S S C A N Dtraveler I N A V I Athe N november FOOTW EAR issue

Editorial Director Åsa Lundqvist

Email [email protected]

FOR THE MODERN TRAVELER FROM SCANDINAVIAN AIRLINES | NOVEMBER 2016

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FOR THE MODERN TRAVELER FROM SCANDINAVIAN AIRLINES | NOVEMBER 2016

Getting personal Linn Ullmann rediscovers herself and her parents

FURNITURE FANATICS Meet the Hays | US ELECTION How it all works SALZBURG Christmas markets | NORWAY Ski and sail SKIING TIPS Learn from the best | THOM HELL A true traveler FRUIT FOR THOUGHT Froosh smoothies | SAS DREAMS Fulfill your fantasy

Responsible under Swedish press law

Editor-in-chief Anna-Lena Ahlberg Editors Danny Chapman Risto Pakarinen Web Editors Carl-Johan Bauhn Sofia Lundgren

About the cover

In her latest novel, hailed by many as her best, Norwegian author Linn Ullmann dug deep to recall faded childhood memories. She tells Scandinavian Traveler how writing the book helped her rediscover herself.

Art Directors Kristian Strand Fredrik Öhlander Translator Stratcore Repro & Print Done & Stibo Graphic SAS Head of Marketing Programs Maria Wästlund

facebook.com/SAS Become a fan, share your stories and ask questions instagram.com/flySAS Follow the SAS world in images twitter.com/SAS Catch up with SAS and drop us a line youtube.com/flySAS Check out SAS’s latest videos

[email protected]

SAS Vice ­President Brand & Marketing Didrik Fjeldstad [email protected]

SAS Executive Vice ­President and Chief ­Commercial ­Officer Eivind Roald

Keep updated at scandinaviantraveler.com

Winner

Winner s!

Something you’d like to see in Scandinavian Traveler? Let the editorial team know at [email protected]

DG MEDIA SALES CONTACTS FOR ADVERTISING Sales Director Catarina Berggren SWEDEN

DENMARK

NORWAY

Account Manager Jacob Gündüz Coordinator Annika Stiernspetz Tel +46 72 506 86 10

Sales Manager Christian Vimtrup Tel +45 33 70 76 31 • Fax +45 70 27 11 56

Sales Director Siri Danielsen Key Account Manager Matti Myllykoski Key Account Manager Jannike Thomassen Key Account Manager Grethe Kråkeland Tel +47 21 60 81 90 Fax +47 21 60 81 91

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Scandinavian Traveler is published by OTW Birger Jarlsgatan 61 • SE-10365 Stockholm • otw.se

Scandinavian Traveler is a magazine published 12 times a year and a daily updated website produced by OTW Communication in cooperation with SAS. Opinions expressed in this ­publication are those of the authors or persons interviewed and do not necessarily reflect the views of the editors, OTW C ­ ommunication or Scandinavian Airlines. All rights reserved. Material in this publication may not be reproduced in any form without written permission. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and illustrations are not accepted. Scandinavian Traveler accepts no ­responsibility for such ­material sent to its office, nor is it liable for loss of, or damage to, such material. All editorial material in the ­magazine S ­ candinavian Traveler is digitally stored and will be republished on the web and in various digital media. Persons ­contributing ­material to ­Scandinavian Traveler consent to digital storage and republication. Any reservations against this should be made before ­publication. All correspondence to ­Scandinavian Traveler may be published. SAS Customer Relations www.sas.se/feedback

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F O R S C A N D I N A V I A N D E A L E R S , P L E A S E V I S I T W W W. E U R O S K O . C O M

Åkestam Holst Promenad

QUALITY TIME WITH BONUS POINTS We all have our everyday routines. Nothing wrong with that. But if you ever just want to get away from it all, enjoy a long sleep in and a leisurely Tuesday dinner in the most spectacular of settings, welcome to the Grand Hôtel. Now you’ll also earn SAS EuroBonus points on your overnight stays! Book a weekend or an ordinary weekday. At the Grand Hôtel, there’s no such thing asordinary. For enquiries, please phone us at +46 8-679 35 60 or visit grandhotel.se. See you soon!

SHORTCUTS winter spas

dark food

lucky places

events

This way to Innsbruck

A return trip to ­Innsbruck will cost you from 30,000 points. ­ Taxes and fees apply from €30. Book at flysas.com

Winter wonderland spas Winter holidays are not just about skiing. They’re also the perfect time to enjoy the mountains at relaxing spas. The Aqua Dome in Austria is one of many spectacular spa resorts o ­ ffering luxurious winter mountain escapes. By Jessica Johansson

t the impressive Aqua Dome thermal spa ­resort in Austrian ­Tyrol, you can float across the surface of a heated outdoor pool while gazing up at alpine peaks. Who doesn’t like the sound of that? The Aqua Dome is located

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45 minutes by car from ­Innsbruck and about two and a half hours from Munich. The ultramodern spa resort ­combines futuristic architecture with fitness facilities as well as 12 heated indoor and outdoor pools and several ­saunas.

IN THE Sinngenuss restaurant, guests can try traditional ­Austrian specialties as well a ­s ­international dishes. The expansive panoramic hotel windows provide ­wonderful views of the Ötztal Valley. But the best things here are undoubtedly the outdoor

pools that are surrounded by the beautiful mountain ­landscape. With water ­temperatures in the mid 30s Celsius, you can marvel at the scenery and watch the stars at night while snow is falling all around you. aqua-dome.at

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Photo by Gösta Fries

scandinavian traveler shortcuts winter spas

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This way to Åre/Östersund

Photo by Jonas Kullman

Photo by Norefjell Ski & Spa

A return trip to Åre/ Östersund will cost you from 20,000 points. ­Taxes and fees apply from €30. Book at flysas.com

2 1 More mountain spas NORESUND

Norefjell Ski & Spa

1 This winter resort surrounded by beautiful mountain scenery is just a 90-minute drive from Oslo. The spa won the Best Luxury Spa Award 2016 and offers relaxing massages, spa treatments and a Jacuzzi with a view of the mountains. There is also a chill-out area where you can relax on traditional soft furs with a warm or cold drink.

Bøeseter • Noresund • Norway norefjellskiogspa.no 18

ÅRE

Copperhill Mountain Lodge

2 Located in Åre, Sweden’s most famous ski resort, Copperhill Mountain Lodge, is perched high on the mountain and has magnificent views. At the hotel’s Sami-inspired spa, you can unwind in steaming hot baths and relax your muscles in the sauna. For a really private escape, book the private spa.

Björnen • Åre • Sweden copperhill.se

SAN PELLEGRINO

QC Terme San Pellegrino

With its rich thermal waters, San Pellegrino in the Italian Alps has been a popular spa ­resort since the beginning of the 20th ­century. The QC Terme San Pellegrino Spa has several panoramic thermal pools, tonic waterfalls, saunas, steam baths and a salt room, all wrapped in art nouveau ­architecture. Viale Della Vittoria, 53 • San Pellegrino Terme • Italy qctermesanpellegrino.it november 2016

Picture London. Pick New York.

Let your points take you further. With SAS EuroBonus American Express® Premium Credit Card your points can take you twice as far. Spend 150,000 SEK on your Card within one calendar year and you will qualify for a 50% discount on one EuroBonus flight redemption. This means that points that would normally get you an award flight to London will now take you all the way to New York! Find out more at americanexpress.se/sas (Applicants will be asked to provide a permanent Swedish residential address.)

SAS EuroBonus American Express® Premium Credit Card Effective interest rate on fully utilised credit of 110,000 SEK is 19.30% (Sept. 2016).

scandinavian traveler shortcuts dark food

BRISBANE

The dark side of the plate

Pressed Juices

The “black lemonade” at these stores, which can be found all over Australia, is ­a juice cleanser to bring out your inner Goth. It is described as a highly absorbent, natural detoxifier that helps ­remove toxins from your body. The beets in the lemonade are intended to clean your liver, ­kidneys and blood. 284 Elizabeth St • pressedjuices.com.au

Restaurants and cafés around the world are using squid ink, black sesame and charcoal to color everything from ice cream to hot dog buns black. Here are some of the best places to taste the new dark food trend. NEW YORK

Morgenstern’s Finest Ice Cream

Owner and founder Nicholas Morgenstern wants to change the way people eat ice cream by giving his customers an original and contemporary ice cream experience. His “coconut ash” is a black ice cream created by ­using charcoal and different forms of coconut. The taste is described as similar to vanilla. 2 Rivington Street • morgensternsnyc.com LONDON

Little Ghost Bagels

Adam Andrews’ street food stall has put a modern twist on bagels. By coloring the dough with squid ink, the bagels have a shiny black hue. The food stall moves around London and the easiest way to find one of their Asian-inspired bagels is to check out their Instagram account ­littleghostbagels. littleghostbagels.com 20

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LITE-CUBE DLX & LITE DLX FIRST CLASS ELEGANCE

Stores | Copenhagen | Stockholm | Gothenburg | Helsinki | Oslo Find your local Samsonite Store and offical dealer at www.samsonite.com

Photo by All Over Press

scandinavian traveler shortcuts lucky places

TOKYO

Luck for sale

1 Buy a kumade at one of the Torino-ichi markets held outside of Otori­-jinja shrines and temples across Japan during the days of the rooster in November. Kumades are large fan-shaped bamboo structures decorated with masks and painted gold coins that bring good luck, fortune and success for the coming year. The most famous Tori-no-ichi market is at the Otori Shrine in Asakusa, Tokyo, which is dedicated to Jurojin, one of the seven gods of fortune.

This way to Tokyo

A return trip to Tokyo will cost you from 60,000 points. ­ Taxes and fees apply from €38. Book at flysas.com

Otori Shrine, Asakusa 3-18-7 Senzoku • Taito-ku • Tokyo otorisama.or.jp

2 CORK

A kiss for good luck

2 According to legend, if you kiss the Blarney Stone at Blarney Castle near Cork, Ireland, you’ll be granted the gift of eloquence. It’s not that easy, though. The stone is built into the battlements of the castle’s highest tower and to kiss it, you have to lie on your back and lean over a gap with nothing but air (and some protective crossbars) between you and the ground below.

Blarney • Cork • blarneycastle.ie ST. PETERSBURG

Lucky bird

1 Get lucky Out of luck? Having a bad week and ­hoping to win the l­ ottery next month? Here are some places where you can try your luck in a variety of ways. 22

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3 If you throw stones at the ChizhikPyzhik, a statue of a small bird in St. Petersburg, it may grant you a wish. The statue is based on a Russian folk song about students, whose uniforms were the same colors as the ­Siskin bird, drinking vodka in a local tavern. It is located halfway down a steep stone embankment near the First Engineer Bridge that spans the ­Moika River. Be sure to aim well – the bronze statue is only 11cm tall.

First Engineer Bridge • St. Petersburg

More lucky tips Read about lucky pigs and lucky hands at  scandinaviantraveler.com november 2016

U N LO C K T H E J O U R N E Y

YOUR HOLIDAYS ARE PRECIOUS. MAKE THE MOST OF THEM. We all look forward to holidays with friends and family. Make the most of them and discover more with up to 4,000 SAS EuroBonus Extra points. Quote your Avis AWD number at the time of reservation and also qualify for a free additional driver and 15% discount.* www.avisworld.com/EuroBonus

* Terms and conditions apply. For full details visit www.avisworld.com/EuroBonus Reservation period: 1st November 2016 to 31st December 2016 Rental period: 15th December 2016 to 30th June 2017

Photo by Gettyimages

scandinavian traveler shortcuts events

Mark your calendar

Wondering where to go next? Maybe these events will help you decide.

THIS MONTH NEW YORK

Give thanks

The Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade has been held in New York since the 1920s and is one of the city’s most famous annual events. This year’s parade will be the 90th so expect an even more outlandish pageant of giant balloons, floats, cheerleaders, clowns and marching bands than usual. November 24 social.macys.com ABU DHABI

Speed freaks

1 At the Abu Dhabi Grand Prix, the last race of the 2016 Formula One season, the lights literally come down on the championship as the race starts in daylight and ends after the sun has set. This year, the two main championship rivals, Lewis Hamilton and Nico

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­ osberg, will hopefully be fighting for the 2016 R crown right down to the wire. November 27 formula1.com

IN DECEMBER GENEVA

Swiss chocolate

1 Need more ideas? Find out what else is happening around the world at scandinaviantraveler.com EDINBURGH

Hogmanay

The best New Year's party in the world has to be the Edinburgh Hogmanay Festival. The street party includes torchlit parades, concerts and the best that Scotland has to offer when it comes to food and drink. December 31 edinburghshogmanay.com

Geneva’s largest festival, L’Escalade, ­commemorates the defeat of an attack on the city in 1602. The legend goes that the ­attackers were defeated by a housewife pouring a large cauldron of hot soup on them while they were climbing the walls. To honor this, small pots, or cauldrons, of chocolate filled with marzipan are devoured each year as torchlit processions parade through the old town and a huge bonfire is lit in the ­cathedral square. December 9–11

Vive Latino is a rock festival in Mexico City that focuses on Latin American and Spanish musicians. It is one of the most important Spanish rock music festivals in the world with over 70,000 people attending the event each day. March 18–19, 2017

1602.ch

vivelatino.com.mx

IN MARCH MEXICO CITY

Vive Mexico

november 2016

Shop online at www.follestad.no

scandinavian traveler profiles hay

MAKING HAY He’s passionate about furniture and ­construction. She loves small and ­beautiful ­design objects. Together, they have founded HAY, the Danish furniture and design company taking the world by storm.

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By Ellinor Thunberg Photos by Mikkel Jul Hvilshøj and Hay

ll eyes are on HAY these days. Last year, the design company crossed the Atlantic to set up shop in New York’s Museum of Modern Art (MOMA) store and in April this year, they had one of the most talked-about exhibitions at the Milan furniture fair. The news of HAY’s upcoming collection for IKEA nearly broke the internet, with the photo of Mette Hay’s version of the classic Frakta carrier bag being retweeted at the speed of light. The collection, which will be launched in 2017, includes everything from small household accessories to furniture. “IKEA was totally transparent from the first ­minute,” says Rolf Hay. “We were invited to see the factories and there were no secrets at all.” This openness created a strong platform for ­collaboration, something the duo sees as important. “You end up with a poor result if you think you can do everything yourself. The opportunity to work with people from different cultures can only provide value on both sides,” says Rolf, as he takes a sip of c­ offee from a HAY Paper Porcelain mug. The set is made by Scholten & Baijings, one of many design companies HAY has worked with in recent years.­They have also collaborated with fashion ­­­­brand COS.

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After meeting at the Danish design company Gubi, Rolf and Mette Hay founded their own company in 2002, along with Troels Holch Povlsen. Mette had long been interested in ­design having worked at her parents’ ­furniture store after school and joining them at fairs. Rolf, however, didn’t have design on the radar at all growing up. “When I started, I didn’t even know who Arne ­Jacobsen was. I had never heard of him,” he says. In the 1990s, Rolf got a job representing Danish ­furniture brands in Germany, Switzerland and Austria. Despite being a total newcomer to the industry, in just a few weeks, it was clear that furniture was going to be his lifelong passion. “It was always like that with me. When I was young and played handball, that was the only thing, and now, since 1993, furniture has been the one thing in my life,” he says.

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scandinavian traveler profiles hay

Mette Hay was 23 when HAY was founded.

He worked in Germany for four years and took ­ very opportunity to travel and soak up new know­ e ledge while starting to dream of creating his own ­furniture company. Mette, ten years younger than Rolf, was only 23 when they started HAY, which was founded on the common love of the same design ­language that they both shared. “We were both very much inspired by the Italian company Cappellini and the way Giorgio Cappellini curated the collections: the colors, materials and way they picked out really young designers,” Mette says. But, she adds, while it was clear that a young and design-conscious crowd loved these styles, few could afford them. The HAY vision was therefore clear from the start – to work with the best designers in the world and create affordable products of good quality. HAY launched its first furniture collection within a year and it now has stores around the world. These ­include the flagship store in Copenhagen and others in Berlin, Amsterdam, Shanghai and Sydney. The company has also worked with global designers such as Ronan & Erwan Bouroullec, Jakob Wagner and ­Iskos-Berlin.

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AY continues to command international attention. In April this year, Rolf and Mette realized a long-held dream of unveiling the company’s latest furniture and homeware collection at the huge La Pelota event space in Milan. More people showed up on the first day than they had expected for the entire week. And they kept coming back. “It was so nice to meet someone and then see them back again three hours later shopping at the mini mar­ ket or having a coffee outside,” Mette says. The HAY Mini Market, an in-store concept featur­

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ing accessories such as textiles, stationery and glass­ ware, was launched two years ago. It is now available at the MOMA stores in New York, Selfridges in Lon­ don and at HAY House at Strøget in Copenhagen. Small objects truly make Mette’s heart skip a beat. She says that HAY’s signature mix of furniture and ­accessories is inspired by her parents’ shop. “There is definitely more respect for smaller things today compared to 12 years ago,” she says. “It is not every week that we have a new sofa or chair, or that a customer needs it again. But we feel that people enjoy coming back for our smaller ­objects, because there is always something new.”

‘There is definitely more respect for smaller things today compared to 12 years ago’

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Photo by Dover Street Market

scandinavian traveler profiles hay

METTE HAY’S WORLD OF DESIGN Mette Hay loves looking at things and finds inspiration wherever she goes. Here are her favorite places around the world. Dover Street Market, London

Dover Street Market is a fashion store with branches in London, New York, Beijing and Tokyo. They are all great and always on my list of places to ­visit when I travel.

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18–22 Haymarket, London • doverstreetmarket.com

Cibone, Tokyo

A great mix of contemporary design and ­fashion, jewelry, fragrances and magazines. 2F, 2-27-5 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo • cibone.com

Rossana Orlandi, Milan

During Salone del Mobile, this place is always very crowded. But on a normal day, I love to come here and find unexpected objects and furniture. Via Matteo Bandello 14/16, Milan • rossanaorlandi.com

10 Corso Como, Shanghai

The building and interior are amazing – and there is a great collection of fashion and beautiful ­objects. 1717, West Nanjing Road, Shanghai • 10corsocomo.com

T-Site bookstore, Tokyo

You will find the best selection of books and magazines at the T-Site bookstore. We were so lucky to do a HAY Mini Market pop-up here. 17-5 Sarugakucho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo real.tsite.jp/daikanyama

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‘I love ­traveling so much and I feel lucky to meet local people and see new things’

ifferent aspects of design take up almost every inch of Mette and Rolf ’s daily lives. Luckily, they enjoy it a lot. “I love going to flea markets to find things and get inspired and I would go to the same places whether I work with HAY or not. It is my hobby to look at things,” she says. Rolf is more interested in how things are made, which is also why he very much enjoyed working on the IKEA project in which he learned more about the supply chain and production. He shows us a cabinet with a folding door. The construction is inspired by the way airplane bathrooms open and he admits that there is a nice ring to saying he came up with the idea in the air. Uninterrupted time to think is just one of many perks of traveling for work. “It takes us away from the daily business and creates a platform where you can get inspired,” he says. “Today, we’re in the position that if we get a good idea, we can do something and that is a big privilege.” Mette agrees. “I love traveling so much and I feel lucky to meet local people and see new things. I’d rather go on a business trip to India than to go only for a holiday. If I can combine the two, that’s perfect,” she says, adding that a global network is also a gift for their kids, who are age 7 and 12, if they want to go abroad in the future. “It is so fortunate that Rolf and I know people almost everywhere in the world today.” november 2016

| DENMARK Charlottenlund: Sebastian • Horsholm: Daniel • Lyngby C: New England • Silkeborg: Mr Silkeborg | FINLAND Helsinki: Vaatturiliike Sauma | NORWAY Bergen: Scabal Klöverhuset, Scabal Lagun Oslo: Ferner Jacobsen, Skabo • Trondheim: Bogart.Cosmo • Ålesund: Chris | SWEDEN Djursholm: Mr G Jönköping: Fribergs • Malmö: Ljunggren • Stockholm: Ströms • Varberg: Lolles • Värnamo: Fribergs | Contact: Showroom Sabbia +46 70 232 87 75 | Please follow us on Instagram: sabbiashowroom

scandinavian traveler profiles hay

COPENHAGEN BY HAY HAY House, in the middle of Copenhagen, is the center of the HAY empire. Thanks to this, Rolf and Mette Hay have some pretty handy tips on the Danish capital.

Atelier September

HAY’s world Read about HAY’s ­favorite places around the world at scandinaviantraveler.com

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1 Atelier September is great for breakfast or lunch. It’s owned by our friend Chef Frederik Bille Brahe.

Gothersgade 30 atelierseptember.dk

Spaghetteria

We love to have dinner at Spaghetteria because of the classic fresh Italian food and charming staff. Vester Farimagsgade 2 Spaghetteria.dk

Havfruen

Frederik Bille Brahe’s new place in town, Havfruen, is well worth a visit. It has a great interior, great food and great people.

This way to Copenhagen

Nyhavn 39 restauranthavfruen.dk

Holly Golightly

The owner, Barbara Werner, has a fabulous sense of color and pattern. She also carries my favorite brand – Dries Van Noten.

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Gammel Mønt 2 & Store Regnegade 2 hollygolightly.dk

A return trip to ­ openhagen will cost C you from 20,000 points. ­Taxes and fees apply from €30. Book at flysas.com

The Apartment

2 Tina Seidenfaden Busck, who started The Apartment, is a good friend and colleague. She has created a space that is always pleasant to visit and where you can find inspiration. It’s located in a lovely old building in a charming part of the city.

Overgaden neden Vandet 33 theapartment.dk

Glyptoteket

I am a big fan of the art museum Glyptoteket. The space feels so removed from the city. I can be super busy and then step into Glyptoteket and completely ­forget that I’m in the middle of C ­ openhagen. Dantes Plads 7 • glyptoteket.dk

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1 Louisiana Museum of Modern Art

Admiralgade 26

The location is beautiful and so is the ride up the coast from the city. It’s a nice place to visit with children and there are always refreshing exhibitions.

This newly-opened restaurant, owned by our friend Christian Nedergaard, is a wonderful spot to visit in the center of Copenhagen, with a great food and wine menu.

Gl. Strandvej 13, Humlebæk louisiana.dk

Admiralgade 26 admiralgade26.dk

november 2016

B O B E R G G R E N U R H A N D E L • S TO C K H O L M N K J U V E L S A L O N G • S TO C K H O L M BERGSTRÖMS UR • GÖTEBORG • MALMÖ URMAKER BJERKE AS • BERGEN • OSLO G U L L S M E D T R U L S A M B J Ø R N S E N A S • F R E D R I K S TA D OT T E R E N G U L L S M E D & U R M A K E R • S TA VA N G E R O L E M AT H I E S E N A S • C O P E N H AG E N H V E L P L U N D WAT C H E S & J E W E L L E R Y • C O P E N H A G E N OY O S K . L I N D R O O S A B • H E L S I N K I

scandinavian traveler outlines xxx xxx us elections

Date The presidential election is a­ lways on the Tuesday after the first Monday in November.

Parties The American electoral system favors the two major parties, the Democrats and the Republicans. Third-party candidates sometimes win votes, but none has won a whole state in the presidential elections since George ­Wallace from the American Independent Party in 1968. As well as Hillary Clinton (D) and ­Donald Trump (R), there is some support this year for Libertarian Gary Johnson and the Green ­Party’s Jill Stein.

When the president takes office The newly elected ­president­will be sworn in on January 20, 2017 in Washington. The oath of the office is administered by the Chief Justice of the ­Supreme Court. The president then gives an inaug­ural speech.

Swing states The presidential election is in practice decided in a number of “swing states” where the vote is split fairly evenly between the major parties. There are a dozen or so states defined as swing states this year, of which Ohio, Pennsylvania and Flor­ ida have the most votes. Swing states are usually the same for each election. But things do shift over time as demographics change. Bill Clinton won big in the 1990s in many southern states, where ­Hillary Clinton doesn’t have a chance today. And whereas George W Bush didn’t even need to campaign in ­Virginia and Colorado, the Democrats are now likely to win these.

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november 2016

scandinavian traveler xxx xxx

On November 8, US voters will decide who will be the next President of the United States of America. But for ­outsiders, the American ­elections can be a confusing ­cacophony of swing states and electoral colleges. What does it all mean? By Jens Kärrman Illustration by Björn Öberg

Period of office A president can be elected for two terms totaling eight years. A vice president who succeeds a president who dies can be in office longer because they complete their predecessor’s term first.

Age limit

Other elections

The president must be at least 35 years old and be born as a citizen of the United States. He or she need not be born in the US. The 2008 ­Republican candidate John ­McCain was born in the Panama ­Canal Zone.

On the same day that ­ merica votes for its A ­president, one third of the Senate and the entire House of Representatives are also up for election. The composition of the two chambers is very important in terms of the president’s ability to implement his or her program.

How the President of the United States is elected The presidential election is not a ­direct national election. The president is elected by the­ ­Electoral College, which is made up of electors from each state. All of the state’s electors are pledged to the ­candidate who wins the most popular votes in the state on election day, with the exception of ­Nebraska and Maine, whose electors can be split.

november 2016

This system means that the candidate who gets the most popular votes across the country does not automatically win. This is rare, but it did occur in as recently as 2000 when Al Gore (D) received half a million more votes than George W Bush (R). There are 538 electoral votes. In the ­unlikely event of a tie, the 435 members of the House of Representatives determine the outcome.

The result is for all intents and ­ urposes decided on the night of p the election, but the formal election by the Electoral College takes place in ­December. The electoral votes are then counted in the Senate in early January and its president, the outgoing vice president, formally announces who has been elected President of the United States.

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scandinavian traveler travels america

Mount Rushmore, Keystone, South Dakota

10 Every year, almost three million people visit this mountain in the Black Hills of Dakota to see the gigantic faces of George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt and Abraham Lincoln carved into the rock. The project started in 1927 and was declared ­complete in 1941, even though the original plan had been to depict each president from head to waist. Mount Rushmore is now a US icon.

ROAD TRIPPIN’

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nps.gov/moru

THROUGH AMERICAN HISTORY Want to learn more about American history? Then get yourself a full tank of gas, a pair of s­ unglasses, turn the car stereo up loud and hit it! We’re heading on a road trip through the heart of America. By Risto Pakarinen

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George W Bush Childhood Home, Midland, Texas

9 This house in Midland, Texas, at the c­ enter of the West Texan oilfields, offers three for the price of one as it was George W Bush’s childhood home, the former home of his father, George H W Bush, the 41st ­president, and his wife, former First Lady Barbara Bush. Young George lived in this house between the ages of five and nine.

nps.gov/nr/travel/presidents

november 2016

9

Concord and Lexington, Massachusetts

The first battles of the American Revolutionary War took place at these small towns in 1775. They now revel in their revolutionary past with Lexington the self-proclaimed ­“birthplace of American Liberty” and Concord celebrated, by Ralph Waldo Emerson in his poem Concord Hymn, as the spiritual center of the ­American nation. Both cities have historic houses, museums and ­guided tours associated with the­ ­revolutionary days. 1

The National Mall, Washington

In the heart of Washington is a large public park that contains many of the country’s ­leading national museums and monuments. This is where you’ll find the Washington ­Monument, the Vietnam Veterans Memorial, the Smithsonian Institution, the ­Lincoln ­Memorial and the Capitol Building. Just off the mall, at 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue, one of the most famous addresses in the world, is the White House, which has been the ­residence of every US president since John Adams in 1800. 4

tourlexington.us

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nps.gov/nama

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Bill Clinton Birthplace, Hope, Arkansas

The modest white house on the corner of South Hervey and 2nd Street in Hope, ­Arkansas, is where Bill Clinton lived with his grandparents for the first four years of his life. Today, it’s also the home of a Pokémon ­character! Tours of the house take place every 30 minutes.

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4

Monticello, Charlottesville, Virginia

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nps.gov/wicl

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5

The plantation home of Thomas ­Jefferson, founding father, principal ­author of the Declaration of ­Independence and the third president of America, is an architectural masterpiece that was designed by Jefferson himself. Visitors will get a glimpse of life at the house during Jefferson’s time there and the plantation, which was tended by 150 slaves. Jefferson and his family are ­buried nearby. 5

Theodore Roosevelt Birthplace, New York

2 The brownstone house in Manhattan where Theodore Roosevelt (the 26th ­president) was born and lived for the first 14 years of his life was demolished in 1916. Luckily for US history buffs and fans of “Teedie” as the President was called by his family, the house was ­rebuilt and made into a museum following his death in 1919.

nps.gov/thrb

monticello.org

Jimmy Carter National Historic Site, Plains, Georgia

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6 Jimmy Carter was a peanut farmer from southern Georgia and his story is the epitome of the American Dream. Carter still lives in Plains, the town where he was born and grew up, and as a former president, his home is protected by the Secret ­Service. The visitor center and museum are housed in the High School where Carter and his wife Rosalynn studied. His boyhood home can also be viewed as well as his 1976 ­campaign ­headquarters.

Another claimant for the birthplace of the US, Philadelphia’s Independence Hall was where the Declaration of ­Independence was signed in 1776 and the US Constitution in 1789. It now forms the centerpiece of the city’s Independence National Historical Park.

nps.gov/jica

nps.gov/inde

Independence Hall, Philadelphia

3

7 The Harry S Truman Little White House, Key West, Florida

Harry S Truman became president at the end of World War II. A year and a half later, he was physically exhausted so doctors told him to take time off somewhere warm. The former command headquarters of the Key West naval base became the winter White House for the rest of ­Truman’s presidency. The house was also used by Truman’s successors, Eisenhower and John F Kennedy who held a summit here with British Prime Minister ­Harold Macmillan in March 1961. It opened as a museum in 1991. 7

trumanlittlewhitehouse.com november 2016

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ADVERTORIAL PRODUCED BY LINIE AQUAVIT

AN AQUAVIT OF CRAFTSMANSHIP AND OF THE SEA Once primarily known as a tasty companion to Nordic cuisine, LINIE today has become popular in drinks and on the rocks because of its extraordinary taste and smoothness – qualities, which derive from a century-long tradition of sea maturation and skilled craftsmanship.

TO TRADITIONS As the New Nordic wave, based on ethics and natural produce, swept in and redefined the Nordic kitchen, it inspired a new way to define Nordic drinks as well. That’s why LINIE Aquavit has now become popular as a premium cocktail component and as a drink on the rocks. Due to its extraordinary flavor and smoothness, LINIE Aquavit is widely regarded as the Nordic equivalent to gin. Many Scandinavian bartenders use it in a wide range of drinks to give them a special Nordic twist. But LINIE Aquavit has been around for over 200 years. The original distilled potato spirit, blended with water, herbs and spices, has been a part of traditional Scandinavian dinners ever since the 1800s. The reason for its popular taste and smoothness is to be found in a century-long tradition of sea maturation and skilled craftsmanship.

COOPERS AND CASKS “Using casks is actually a really old packaging method”, Arne Jøren Øien is one of LINIE Aquavit’s regular coopers. A cooper is a craftsman educated in making barrels and casks of wood and Arne Jøren Øiens knowledge of the old craftsmanship is an essential part of producing LINIE Aquavit. Since it was discovered that used oak sherry casks were a perfect match with LINIE Aquavit, coopers like Arne Jøren Øien have been focused on acquiring and maintaining the valuable containers. Oak casks aren’t just boards held together by a hoop. “An oak cask is like a teabag. The first cups of tea, will taste stronger than every cup of tea after them. As must the Aquavit

lie longer in an old cask to get taste from the sherry. But as the sherry component decreases over the years, new ones emerges; vanilla and so on. When combining old and new casks we can obtain the exact flavour we want”, he explains.

WOOD WITH HISTORY Oak lasts a long time, even now sherry casks from the 1920’s are still involved in production: “We still have a cask in storage with the name Christiania on it. Christiania was Oslo’s former name, and the cask dates back to 1925. The cask had already been used before our company recieved it, so it’s even older than that”. The casks have immense importance when it comes to the taste of Aquavit. That’s why Arne Jøren Øien’s job is, amongst other things, to collect the best casks. And the casks are much sought after. Because the popular taste properties, hidden in the wood of the casks, are what others, such as whiskey producers, rely on. “When we buy new casks, we inspect them inside and outside. All senses are in use to ensure we know what the casks have been carrying and how they’ve been maintained.”

“American oak has more vanilla to the taste.”

Besides hints of sherry LINIE Aquavit also has a bit of vanilla which can be attributed to one huge American oak:

ADVERTORIAL PRODUCED BY LINIE AQUAVIT

“We prefer white oak for our casks. American oak has more vanilla to the taste. It’s also more dense and different in structure compared to European oak. The more dense the structure, the longer it takes to deliver taste to the Aquavit”, Arne Jøren Øien explains. An oak cask is liquid tight but with ventilation. That means, that liquid can evaporate out from the cask. On average, two percent of the content evaporates each year. The point of the cask however is to keep most of the liquid inside. There are numerous ways of doing this. One method consists of lighting a small fire in the cask. The heat from the fire caramelizes the xylose, which makes the inside of the cask liquid tight. “We carefully check how burnt the inside of the cask is, because it is one of the biggest taste variables. At the same time we look for traces of sulfur and stearin from candles. If the casks have been inspected or maintained before, sometimes sulfur or candles have been used, which can leave traces in the cask. It can give an unwanted tang to our product, that’s why we search for and remove any traces there might be.”

A TOUGH JOURNEY The flavor from cask to Aquavit is the reason why LINIE Aquavit has to cross the equator twice to mature to perfection. Crossing the oceans can be a tough journey and demands a lot from Arne Jøren Øien’s work: “After the aquavit have been stored for twelve months in casks in Oslo, we pour it in special transportation casks which can withstand the strain onboard a travelling ship. Take temperatures for example; we load the casks onto a ship in Oslo where the temperature is way below freezing point. When the ship crosses the equator the temperature is 60 degrees hotter. That’s also why we don’t fill the casks to a maximum, letting the liquid expand.” Temperature, humidity and ocean waves make an important part of the maturing process, when 400 oak casks per shipment traverse the seas.

“We call it “the angels’ share” as liquid evaporates upwards.”

“During the voyage, each cask loses at least 10 kg to pure evaporation. We call it “the angels share” as liquid evaporates upwards. But it is an important part of the process and the journey at sea develops the taste in a very positive direction” the cooper underlines. Few businesses today rely on coopers and craftsmanship. Producing liquid-tight oak casks that allow evaporation is a great art. Which is why Arne Jøren Øien is very confident in the collaboration between traditional craftsmanship and modern production: “Shipping is an important part of our country’s history, you know. And the oak casks played an important part when it came to transporting goods and products around the world. Through our work, we maintain that tradition, and keep more than a hundred years of history alive. That makes me proud.”

THE STORY OF LINIE AQUAVIT LINIE Aquavit is the oldest aquavit brand in the world and famous for its maturing at sea. Started back in 1805, when a Norwegian family of tradesmen named Lysholm shipped off potato aquavit to the East Indies, where people where utterly uninterested in it. Therefore the aquavit was shipped back to Norway and on its arrival in 1807, it was discovered that the voyage had vastly improved its taste. Ever since that day, each and every cask of LINIE Aquavit is sent on a four-month sea voyage around the world to mature, crossing the Equator twice.

scandinavian traveler features xxx xxx salzburg

THE NUMBER 1 CHRISTMAS MARKET CITY Nothing awakens the Christmas spirit like a stroll through a Christmas market. And Salzburg has some of the best. By Sofia Zetterman Photos by Magnus Jönsson

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november 2016

Christkindlmarkt

The renowned Christkindlmarkt­(Christmas market of the infant Jesus) in the heart of the city was first mentioned in the 15th century. The market is ­located at the foot of the Hohensalzburg Castle in front of the venerable cathedral of Salzburg. Around 100 stalls here have ­everything from craftworks, food, Christmas decorations, floral ­arrangements, candles, textiles, sweets, toys and jewelry. The market also has its very own Christ Child. She appears at the market every Wednesday and Saturday at 5:30pm followed by her four angels. O ­­ pens November 17.

Christkindlmarkt is held in front of Salzburg Cathedral.

Residenzplatz christkindlmarkt.co.at

Weihnachtsmarkt

The first Christmas market in Salzburg after World War II took place at Mirabellplatz in front of Mirabell Palace, just a few ­minutes’ walk from the main train station. After a long pause, it has once again become a popular market for young and old with culinary delicacies, mulled wine and lovingly decorated stalls. The market enchants visitors with its t­ raditional charm, fragrant scents and Christmas treats. Opens November 17. Mirabellplatz weihnachtsmarkt-salzburg.at

Adventmarkt St. Leonhard

The traditional Advent market in front of St. Leonhard’s Church is one of the most atmospheric and romantic Christmas markets in the city. Hand-carved nativity figures, Christmas decorations, ceramics, toys, fruit bread, cookbooks, mulled wine, punch and chestnuts are just some of the treats on offer here with volunteers collecting for charity, too. Check if there are any Advent concerts taking place in the church when you visit. Opens November 26.

This way to Salzburg

A return trip to Salzburg will cost you from 30,000 points. ­Taxes and fees apply from €30. Book at flysas.com

Gartenauer straße 8 advent-groedig.com november 2016

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scandinavian traveler features salzburg

Some tasty treats at the Christkindlmarkt.

Stern Advent

The Sternarkaden is a modern shopping center created from a brewery in one of the oldest merchant areas of Salzburg. Its small but charming Christmas market is tucked away from the hustle and bustle of busier streets. In addition to art and handicrafts, an attractive entertainment program adds to the pre-Christmas spirit. Opens November 18. Getreidgasse 34/Griesgasse 23 sternadvent.at

Advent at Stiegl Brewery

This romantic little Christmas market is located in the inner courtyard of Stiegl Brewery. With festive beers on offer such as mulled beer to help inspire your shopping choices, this is the ­natural Christmas m ­ arket choice for beer lovers. Opens November 24. Bräuhausstraße 9 brauwelt.at

Hellbrunner Adventzauber

The Advent market inside the courtyard of the Baroque ­Hellbrunn Palace in southern Salzburg is very special. ­Wonderfully decorated wooden market stands, torchlit paths and an oversized Advent calendar add to the atmosphere. ­Children can enjoy a sledge ride drawn by real reindeer and an exciting entertainment program brings the festive spirit to the fore. Opens November 17. Fürstenweg 37 hellbrunneradventzauber.at 42

Feel the Christmas spirit all over Salzburg.

Hohensalzburg Castle Advent Market

Whether you arrive on foot or by funicular, the Advent market in the courtyard of Hohen­ salzburg Fortress, high above the city rooftops, offers a stunning view of Salzburg in its Christmas ­attire. The countless market booths and colorful entertainment program transform this medieval castle courtyard into an enchanting marketplace. ­Children can make their own apple-­men, straw stars, ice flowers or angels while parents enjoy the brass concerts and dance. Opens November 25.

CITY + SKIING = SALZBURG Did you know there are 359 ski resorts within three hours of Salzburg?

Why not spend a day in the historical city of Christmas markets and then head to one of the many renowned ski resorts just a few hours’ drive from the city? Whether you are a ­family with small children or an experienced skier looking for more challenging slopes, you’ll find what you’re looking for around Salzburg. This is where both the Norwegian and the Austrian national ski teams train for the World Cup. Read more at ski-austria.com

Hohensalsburg Fortress • salzburg-burgen.at november 2016

Ring in 18k white gold with three brilliant cut diamonds. Price from DKK 18,750.

For orders and inquiries, please contact us by phone or email at [email protected]. We offer free shipping worldwide.

KLARLUND, Østergade 22, 1100 Copenhagen K KLARLUND, Vesterbrogade 6, 1620 Copenhagen V Phone: +45 33 11 53 10 • Web: klarlund.dk

scandinavian traveler xxx xxx

Linn Ullmann has been nominated for the ­Nordic Literary Prize for the novel De Urolige.

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scandinavian scandinavian traveler meets traveler linn xxx ullmann xxx

Linn Ullmann’s declaration of

love

When her father died, Linn Ullmann began recalling childhood memories. The result was an acclaimed novel and a daughter’s ­explosive, ruthless love letter to her parents.

T

By Kristin M. Hauge Photos by Geir Dokken

hey had a plan, the two of them. Linn ­Ullmann and her father, the legendary movie director Ingmar Bergman, were going to write a book ­together. It would be about growing old – the stresses and strains of ageing. They were going to meet on set days, at set times and discuss their combined ­memories and confessions, about art and life. They were going to work in a disciplined way. R ­ ecord everything on tape. But it didn’t go quite as planned. Her father died in 2007, after just six crackly and pretty poor sound ­recordings had been made. And the content was not quite what they’d had in mind. The director’s words were fragmented. And towards the end, he had ­become forgetful. “To see, to remember, to know. It all ­depends on where you stand. The first time I came to Hammars I was barely a year old and knew nothing of the great and overwhelming love that had brought me there. Actually, there were three loves.”

november 2016

So opens Ullmann’s latest book, De Urolige, (meaning the disquiet or the ­restless – the English title is as yet ­undecided), which was published in late 2015. The Swedish tabloid Expressen hailed the book as a poetic weave of memories and a l­ iterary masterpiece. The novel has been nominated for the Nordic Council Literary Prize, with the jury saying it is just as much about understanding and ­narrating a life as putting specific lives ­under the magnifying glass. Swedish ­Radio – and the whole of Norway – think it is the best work that Linn Ullmann has ever produced. She’s waiting for us in a tiny neigh­ borhood cafe by the streetcar loop in ­Ullevål Hageby, Oslo. The café is behind an old movie theater. It serves salads, pies and soups and also sells books written by local authors. It’s raining hard outside. The air feels sultry. Ullmann is about to go off on a holiday, her first in 20 years. Her husband, daughter, stepdaughter and dog Charley are all packed and waiting in the car a few blocks away. 45

Voilà! We are renovating our hotels. Check in at thonhotels.com

scandinavian traveler meets linn ullmann

WHO SHE IS AND WHAT SHE DOES Linn Ullmann

Age: 50 Lives: Oslo Family: Married to author Niels Fredrik Dahl Two children: Filmmaker Halfdan Ullmann Tøndel and seventh grader Hanna Dahl Ullmann Education: English literature at New York U ­ niversity Occupation: Award-winning and critically-­ acclaimed author Career: Has worked as a critic and culture ­journalist in ­Norway. De Urolige is her sixth novel. It has been awarded the Norwegian Radio P2 ­listeners’ Book Prize and been nominated for the Nordic Council Literary Prize. All of Ullmann’s ­novels have been ­published in the US and in most of Europe. She has previously won the Gullpennen and Amalie S ­ kram Prizes

november 2016

Photo by Tor G. Stenersen / Aftenposten / NTB scanpix

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The photograph of the father and daughter on the cover of the book.

llmann doesn’t take up much space. She stretches and contracts on the bench, apologizes for being hungry and says a humble thank you for a slice of pie and cup of tea. Three times she tells us she’s sorry for forcing us to change our plans for the interview. Once all the apologies are out of the way, we can begin. “It’s an extremely personal novel,” she says. “I have taken myself and used a big chunk of my own life. Writing the book was a process of liberation. Something opened up. I closed in on my own life in ways I hadn’t before.” None of the characters in the book have a name. That was quite deliberate. The main character, a young girl, has a goal: To reunite her parents so she can find out who she really is. Because she was his child and her child. But not their child. And she doesn’t know what is her story and what is their story. The novel also raises the issue of gender and gender roles. “We were a few steps removed from the gender role pattern we see today,” says Ullmann. “But I still ­detect in our present society a stronger expectation from the mother figure than the father figure. The father in the novel had not considered taking responsibility, while all of the mothers, his women, strong, intelligent women, many of them artists, took responsibility for the nine children he had in total.” Ullmann never looked at the archives. She didn’t do any interviews or any direct research. She didn’t go to Hammars, her father’s home on Fårö off Gotland, to walk the overgrown paths and refresh her memory. She reread the books her parents wrote i­ nstead and watched many of his films again. Above all, she pounced on books, photographs, films ­and music that in a strange way brought her closer to her own story, her own m ­ emories. “As much as it is a novel, De Urolige is also about rediscovering yourself and those closest to you in art and in memories,” she says. “I watched more Fellini films than Bergman ones when I was working on the book.” Ullmann wrote most of the novel in her studio apartment in Oslo, barely bigger than a shoebox, with a kitchenette and views over Stensparken. Her tiny apartment gives her a wonderful Astrid ­Lindgren feeling. It’s just like in the children’s film Lotta på Bråkmakargatan (Lotta on Troublemaker Street) based on Lindgren’s books in which Lotta leaves home and furnishes her own place at Mrs Berg’s. Lotta decides everything for herself. 47

scandinavian traveler meets linn ullmann

Photo by Anne Huso

scandinavian traveler xxx xxx

The girl in De Urolige never gets to ­ ecide when and where she goes, and she d often moves home. She clings to her beau­ tiful, hardworking single mother, a woman who can make hearts beat faster and work miracles on stage and on screen. A sense of longing can make the girl sick. When she’s sad, she has so much dissonance in­ side her. She’s surrounded by so many dangers.

“S

he’s the hero of the book,” says Ullmann. “I see her as a survivor, not a victim. The girl is incredibly tough. She sees. She thinks. She wants to be an adult. She’s got the most beautiful mother in the world and a father who is world famous for ­seeing women. She has no limits. She is part boy, part girl, part child, part adult. The book is about a constant denial of all of these categorizations.” Ullmann is remarkably receptive and hates sentimentality. Her close friend, 48

‘Writing the book was a process of liberation. Something opened up’ c­ olleague and publisher Geir Gulliksen says she’s conscientious and takes life very seriously. “She has the ability to delve deep into everything and be both delighted and des­ pondent at the same time,” Gulliksen says. “She also has a rare feeling for language, which makes her a really good author.” Composition, choreography and struc­ ture are crucial to her writing. She says she has read as much as she can on music the­ ory. Her father’s last film was Saraband, the name of Bach’s Cello Suite No.5. The sixth and final part in De Urolige is called Gigue, the sixth and final dance in the cel­ lo suite. The entire book is like an intense piece of music where Ullmann tightens the strings so hard in the different acts

that they seem to almost reach breaking point. But when you feel the strings must snap, she releases all of the tension from this accumulated vulnerability in a merci­ less, yet comical way. Only in the final sen­ tence of the book are readers given the chance to abandon hope. “It’s a coming of age novel about three troubled people – and a declaration of love,” Ullmann says. “The book pays ­homage to the father’s artistic works. I ­relate both to Bergman – and my father. He was also a son who wanted to under­ stand his parents and tried to reach behind their masks.” Ullmann drily explains that she never liked her name. She – who was actually named Karin after her paternal grand­ mother, hated hearing her name – and ­seeing photographs of herself. “That was not out of shyness. And I don’t think it’s quite as bad now. But my most abiding memory as a child is that I didn’t want to be a child. I wanted to be an adult while both my parents wanted to be november 2016

HEUER MONZA www.nortime.no

scandinavian traveler xxx xxx

scandinavian traveler meets linn ullmann

Grand Café on the stroke of 12 for a beer and snaps, Ullmann is a regular sight at Voldsløkka sports arena where she goes for her daily run. Always the same time. Always the same place, with the same playlist on her phone. She doesn’t want to experience new runs. She just wants to run here. Again and again and again. One step. And one more step, the Jeff Galloway workout app keeps repeating in her ear. “One step. And one more step. There is a great deal of wisdom in that,” Ullmann says.

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‘Who said the aim in life is to be happy all the time?’

Linn Ullmann’s five favorite books

Lydia Davis, Collected stories (short stories) John Cheever, The Swimmer (short stories) Donald Antrim, I bought a bed (essay) Niels Fredrik Dahl, Lord (novel) Virginia Woolf, On being ill (essay)

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children and were always talking about games. So I wanted to find out what ­happens to a child who doesn’t want to ­­­­be a child.” “The father and the girl had an agreement. It was recorded in his diary. The diary lay on his desk. Everything had its place and everything happened at its proper time. Two hours had been allotted for the girl and the father to have a conversation,” Ullmann writes. In the book, death is the only acceptable excuse for unpunctuality. You can still set your watch by Linn Ullmann in the real world. Just as Henrik Ibsen arrived at the

hen Oslo is covered in slush and cloaked in winter gloom, she switches to the indoor track under the stands at Bislett Stadium. Same time. Same place. Same playlist. Going round and round. Ullmann never imagined she would start running. But that’s what she did. It’s good for her. It clears her head. “I didn’t have a bad childhood,” she says, in case there was any confusion about this. “Most people are torn up in one way or another. They feel uncertain, vulnerable. We all have our wounds. But that is part of being human. At one time or another in our childhood, we have to acknowledge that we are fundamentally alone, that one day we’re going to die, that our parents are not perfect and they are afraid. At one time or another, our hearts will be broken. At one time or another, we’ll fall in love and see all of the possibilities life offers. All the good and the bad starts at an early age. And who said the aim in life is to be happy all the time?” She leaves us as the clouds start to clear. Ullmann apologizes for not fully answering all our questions. She can’t say everything with certainty. People stop her in the street. Seek ­answers to things she has written in the book. “Did things happen exactly like that?” they ask. “Nothing is certain. It all depends on where you stand. A novel is not verifiable. There is no reason to trust me,” Ullmann says. “I am a bluffer by profession. As Joan Didion once said: We tell each other stories in order to live.” november 2016

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scandinavian traveler meets linn ullmann

LINN ULLMANN’S WORLD Norwegian author Linn Ullmann lives in Oslo. She spent her childhood summers on Fårö, an island off ­Gotland with her father. Here are her favorite ­places.

Lofoten

1 This island group in the north is one of the most magnificent sights in Norway, with idyllic ­fishing villages and spectacular nature.

lofoten.com

Green Village Dining

A vegetarian café on ­ riskebyveien in Oslo that serves B ­organic vegetarian dishes from around the world. Briskebyveien 38 • Oslo • greenvillage.no

Stensparken

This peaceful park is just a stone’s throw from Bislett ­Stadium in the hilly St. Hanshaugen district of Oslo. I particularly like the light there and it’s where I go running. Oslo

1 2

The ferry point, Fårösund

The car ferry between Fårösund on Gotland and Fårö takes seven minutes. The ferry point has an ice cream stand and unusual stores. Fårösund • Gotland

Botanical Gardens

2 The beautiful Botanical ­ ardens on Gotland are open all G year and have many plants that you’d n­ ­ormally find in warmer climates.

Visby • Gotland • visbybotan.se

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november 2016

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www.altia.no Nicolaes Van Bameeck was a Dutch cloth merchant who became famous when he married Agatha Bas, who was from a well-known family in Amsterdam. The very eminent artist Rembrandt painted his portrait in 1641. The original picture is today in Koninkijk museum in Brussels.

scandinavian scandinavian traveler tastes traveler food xxx history xxx

HISTORY ON A PLATE British celebrity chef Heston Blumenthal advises anyone traveling to London to peek into the ­kitchens of ­yesteryear. By Emma Holmqvist Deacon Photo by Nicklas Gustafsson

november 2016

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scandinavian traveler tastes food history

Photo by Historic Royal Palaces

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1 Hampton Court Palace on the southwest outskirts of London was the home of Henry VIII. It has a kitchen garden and an incred­ ible maze, but best of all, its kitchen is decked out exactly as it was back in the 16th century. You’ll find a group of historians in costume mimicking the dining and entertaining habits of the time. While the meat on the spit sizzles away, they’ll tell you snip­ pets of history such as why peo­ ple of the era ate with their pinky fingers sticking out (it was used as a personal serving ­implement to dip into spices and sauces). A visit to Hampton Court Palace will provide lots of fascinating facts about British food culture and history.

2

Brick Lane Authentic British curries

2 I often hear people debating whether the curry served in the UK is authentic. It definitely is, in that it’s authentically British. The curry industry is huge and has a long history, and there are some 10,000 ­Bangladeshi restaurants in ­Britain serving dishes modified to suit the British palate. Queen ­Victoria made Anglo-Indian ­curry fashionable in the 19th ­century. She had an ­Indian cook and ate curry every day for the last thirteen years of her life. To experience the food culture that she helped establish, I’d go to places like Brick Lane in east London. While you’re there, stop at one of the authentic Jewish bagel places and ask to have yours filled with salt beef.

Photo by All Over Press

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Henry VIII’s kitchen at Hampton Court Palace

eston Blumenthal is the owner of the Fat Duck restaurant in the village of Bray in Berkshire, one of four res­taurants in the UK to have three Michelin stars. He has written several books and newspaper columns and has appeared on TV. Known for his scientific approach to cooking, ­Blumenthal is equally passionate about the culinary history of Britain. “Britain’s food heritage is as strong as anywhere else in Europe,” he says. “We just buried it for a couple of hundred years, but at last we’ve got it back.” With this passion for the past, ­Blumenthal is keen to highlight a new culinary movement in the UK. “Chefs have started using historical fare and methods,” he says. “This might materialize in ­different ways of curing or even in the increasing ­popularity of brewing stout and mead.” Here, the chef reveals two of his favorite places that have strong ties to British culinary history.

Photo by Historic Royal Palaces

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The kitchen garden at Hampton Court Palace.

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Chicken tikka masala in Brick Lane.

november 2016

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scandinavian traveler explores xxx xxx ålesund

FROM THE MOUNTAINS TO THE SEA In Ålesund, adventurers are embarking on a combined ski and sailing trip that will take them deep into the Norwegian fjords and up to the highest mountain peaks. It’s surely every ­Scandinavian’s dream holiday. By Cenneth Sparby Photos by Felix Oppenheim

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s always along the Norwegian coast, the weather is highly changeable. This morning, leaden clouds hang over the landscape along the coastal road and a gentle rain makes winter feel a long way off, at least when we leave Ålesund where there isn’t the slightest bit of snow. But our skipper and ski guide tell us, as they stand in the wheelhouse checking maps and charts, that rain in Ålesund means snow in the mountains, so we will have some excellent skiing over the next few days. Ålesund is one of the most beautiful towns in Norway. The coastal community, with its classic Art Nouveau-style architecture, is a hugely popular summer tourist destination and welcomes cruise line passengers ashore by the boatload. It is also a sailors’ paradise. The quayside in the Ålesund town center is lined with grand old sailboats and small fishing boats whose skippers have just come in with the day’s catch of cod and Atlantic halibut. Come winter, Ålesund is an excellent gateway to some of the best ski slopes in the Norwegian fjords. According to those in the know, some of Norway’s best off-piste skiing areas can be found here. The Stranda ski resort, for example, which boasts Scandinavia’s highest express lift, is an hour’s drive from Ålesund. The resort often tops the snow depth tables, with no less than 3m of the white stuff for much of the season.

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ut few people know that in Ålesund you can combine the two activities most loved by Scandinavians with a six-day ski and sail adventure. This exclusive arrangement is run by skipper Sven Stewart and ski guide Oscar Almgren. They take adventurers out into Hjørundfjorden onboard M/S Gåssten, a former Swedish minesweeper, and then up to the peaks of the Sunnmøre Alps. Stewart is an adventurer with a Scottish father and a Swedish mother who bought a house in Åre, Sweden and a boat in Norway. He’s an offshore diver, fisherman and skier. “A few years ago I was able to realize my dream of having my own boat, based in

november 2016

M/S Gåssten in Hjørundfjorden.

Sail and ski

The six-day sail and ski expedition takes place in Hjørundfjorden and the Sunnmøre Alps. The journey starts in Ålesund onboard M/S Gåssten. The tours are customized, so inexperienced off-piste skiers and those who are more advanced can both get their fill. The adventure for up to 10 people costs from SKr23,500 per person. This includes accom­ modation in a double cabin, a guide, safety equipment and an avalanche bag as well as full board including drinks. Find out more at uteguiden.com

Sven Stewart

Ålesund,” he says. “It’s a real gem, one of the last military wooden boats built in Sweden. It’s from the 1970s but was scrapped by the Swedish Navy in the late 1980s.” Almgren lives in Stranda and works as a ski guide. Through his company Uteguiden, he organizes both day trips and week-long tours of the peaks in the mountains northwest of Ålesund. “The boat makes it easy for us to reach large parts of the vast fjord without any problem,” says Almgren. “It also means that we always manage to find good snow, so there is plenty of skiing to choose from.” 59

scandinavian traveler explores ålesund

Ski guide Oskar Almgren.

‘We always manage to find good snow’

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t’s a few hours since we left Ålesund and now, inside the fjord, the clouds begin to lighten. The mountains tower above us, powdered with fresh snow. The clouds will be gone by lunchtime, Stewart promises as he steers, ­binoculars in hand, surveying the glasslike waters of the fjord. A moment ago, a school of killer whales passed a few ­hundred meters from the boat. The meeting of sea, fjord and mountain is even more spectacular in winter than in summer. And the snow-covered mountain peaks, the clear winter air, the views and the natural surroundings provide a refreshing contrast to the rain in Ålesund. We alight at the village of Urke and set off with our skis on our backs since the snow cover only begins a few kilometers inland. This afternoon’s target is Saksa, a sugarloaf mountain just over 1,000m high that is fairly easy to climb with skis. “For me, this is one of the finest mountains in the area,” Almgren says. “It’s not as high as others, but at the top you get a fantastic view of the entire fjord ­region.”

november 2016

Some of Norway’s best skiing can be found in the Sunnmøre Alps.

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he clouds have now finally moved off, just as Stewart promised, and the sun is shining brightly. “Put your sunscreen on and keep your clothing light,” Almgren tells us, “because things are going to get a bit sweaty now.” The ascent of Saksa is moderate, which makes it the perfect start to a week of ski climbing. It also gives everyone a chance to get a feel for the equipment and what shape they’re in. We start our ascent in a zig-zag pattern, after having put climbing skins on our skis and checked that the avalanche beacons are working. Almgren encourages us to move at a steady and moderate pace. “If you rush, you’ll just become sweaty and

then you run the risk of starting to freeze when we stop for a break,” he says. “It also increases the risk of chafing.” We follow Almgren’s lead and quickly settle into a pleasant rhythm that gradually turns into a kind of restful meditation in motion. We reach the fresh snow that fell last night. A layer over 10cm thick covers the snow crust, so conditions for the rest of the journey seem to be excellent.

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fter nearly three hours of hard climbing we reach the summit and enjoy the views of the mountain massif that is over 1,500m high and is reflected in the dark waters of the fjord. 61

scandinavian traveler explores ålesund

GOING ALL OUT IN ÅLESUND Ålesund has some great places to stay and the food is another good reason to use the town as a base for ski trips in the nearby mountains.

2 Photo by XL Diner

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XL Diner

Try the salt cod restaurant XL Diner. Over 90% of the world’s salt cod, or bacalao as it is also called, comes from Ålesund. There are imaginative variations here with a taste of the Mediterranean, Asia and India. 1

Skaregata 1B • xlgruppen.no

Hotel Brosundet and Molja Lighthouse

Hotel Brosundet is housed in a listed building that is over 100 years old and it is a special place. The hotel also operates the Molja Lighthouse, the most unusual place in town to sleep. It has been refit by renowned 2

Norwegian architects Snø­ hetta – famous for designing the Oslo Opera House and the Ground Zero Museum in New York.

Photo by Hotel Brosundet

Photo by Hotel Brosundet

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“Time for the reward,” Almgren shouts, and he sets off in harmonic turns down the mountain. We follow. There are shouts of joy and plenty of happy faces as the fluffy snow makes it easy to sweep down the mountain slope, with the fjord and boat in view at the front of the tips of our skis. The final part of the half-hour off-piste adventure is a bit like learning to ski again and the fine cold snow has the texture of sorbet – something that really works the thigh muscles. We round off the trip by inadvertently ­practicing slalom turns between the birch ­saplings – a final challenge before the snow ends and the earth begins. Après-ski is enjoyed on the deck of the boat, followed by a hot shower and dinner with fresh cod and salmon washed down with chilled Chablis. Stewart and his British crew offer a tempting whisky-tasting session in the evening – single malt Scotches served in the stylish mahogany mess where a gilt-framed photo of the Swedish royal couple hangs on one of the walls. The weather forecast for tonight is clear and cold, so there should be a good chance of seeing the Northern Lights and tomorrow we should have a fine sunny trip to the summit.

Molja • brosundet.no

Dalen butcher shop

This butcher shop has been in existence for more than 90 years and it is the oldest one in town. On the counter, you’ll find a wide range of Norwegian del­ icacies such as fenalår – cured lamb – and genuine Sunnmøre sausages. And the fish cakes always sell out fast at lunch. Apotekergata 8

This way to Ålesund

SAS flies direct to Ålesund from Oslo and ­offers connecting flights from other cities in ­Scandinavia.

Earn points

As a ­EuroBonus­ member, you earn points when you fly on SAS, Star Alliance and part­ ners. A return trip to Ålesund will earn you at least 500 points.

Use points

You get a return trip from Scandi­ navia to Ålesund from 20,000 points. Taxes and fees apply from €30.

Cash in points

Relax in an SAS Lounge when fly­ ing in SAS Go from 2,500 points.

Book at flysas.com 62

november 2016

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scandinavian traveler features skiing

TRAIN WITH THE PROS – HIT THE SNOW RUNNING

Start getting your body and equipment in shape for the ski season. Learn how from Swedish cross-country star Anna Haag and ­Norwegian ­alpine ace Henrik Kristoffersen. By Øystein Tronstad Photos by Gettyimages

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nna Haag trains for 750 to 800 hours a year, five to seven days a week, mostly in the off-season from May to October. She does a little less training during the competition season in order to still have the energy to perform. She thinks that core stability and upper body strength are the most important factors for tackling the season head-on. “At the gym, you should focus on stabil­ ity, by, for example, using different forms of the classic plank,” says Haag, who does strength training two to four times a week. “If you’re weak here, it makes it harder to achieve the correct ski technique. Chins and various kinds of lunges are also good for working on body control. If you’re strong, you can get enough movement, so spend time on core training and mobility. Use both free weights and your own body weight.” For alpine skier Henrik Kristoffersen, all-round training is the key to performance on the slopes. “We say that an ­alpine skier should not be the best at anything, just very good at everything,” Kristoffersen says. “But you really need a lot of body control. So CrossFit is a good form of exercise. It provides high intensity and ­variety. “We have an ironman test, which ­includes doing as many box jumps as you can in 90 seconds,” he adds. “It’s also ­important, of course, to have strong thighs, abdomen, back and core. You put a lot of pressure on them.”

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WHO SHE IS AND WHAT SHE DOES Anna Margret Haag

Born: June 1, 1986, in Köping, Västmanland. Career: World Cup debut in 2003. First podium in 2009. Medals at both the Olympics and the World Championships, with the highlight being the Vancouver Olympics in 2010, where she won silver medals in the 15km pursuit and the team sprint. Goal for the 2016/17 season: The big goal is the World Championships in Lahti, Finland. But it will be tough to even get there, so you have to hit the ground running as soon as the season starts at the end of ­November.

november 2016

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Anna Haag’s tips for beginners 1 Get help with your technique. Don’t train if you’re sick or ­injured. Be smart. 2 Don’t buy lots of expensive equipment before you’ve got the bug. 3 Work as much on your technique as on your fitness – good technique makes it easier to go fast.

november 2016

4 Vary your training. In the off-season, go Nordic walking and running. Do strength training to build up your core and upper body. 5 Sign up for a race if you like competing, as this will give you something to aim for. Treat everything as an adventure – look at it as a challenge rather

than a requirement to­ ­perform. 6 Visit motivational and inspirational places. It’s easy to get bored if you’re always on the same course at home. 7 Get out and enjoy nature!

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scandinavian traveler features xxx xxx skiing

Henrik Kristoffersen’s tips for beginners

Buy the right equipment! Skis that aren’t too stiff or too long. Find something that meets your needs. 2 Develop the basic feeling of being on skis. 3 Learn how to snowplow properly and keep practicing it. 4 Avoid difficult slopes and runs to start with. It’s no fun if you’re struggling to cope. 5 Do all-round, ­intensive and varied training. 1

WHO HE IS AND WHAT HE DOES Henrik Kristoffersen

Born: July 2, 1994, in Lørenskog Career: Eight medals at the World Junior Champion­ships. Youngest Norwegian to win a World Cup race. Youngest male medal winner in Olympic alpine skiing (bronze at Sochi in 2014). Won six World Cup events and the Slalom Cup in 2016. Goal for the 2016/17 season: My main goal is ­always to be better at skiing. However, since I won six World Cup races last year, I’m at a level where I need results too, but I’d rather have six more ­victories in the World Cup than a World Championship gold.

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hey both stress that it’s important for beginners to work on the basics and not to buy equipment that is too advanced until you know what you’re doing. “If you fall in love with the sport, then you can invest in more expensive equipment,” advises Haag, who trains for 30 hours a week during peak training periods. “Cross-country skiing doesn’t have to be as expensive as the stores would have you believe. Go to the mountains, get help with technique from someone who knows what they’re doing and enjoy the scenery instead of focusing on the number of ­kilometers or what the heart rate monitor says.” “Take it easy to start with – the toughest courses can wait,” Kristoffersen says. “Work on the basic feeling of being on skis. When I started out, I wasn’t allowed to use the lift. I had to side-step up and ski down. Learn how to snowplow properly. It was boring for a five-year-old, but I still do snowplow training today.” november 2016

scandinavian traveler features skiing

This way to Innsbruck

Photo by Seiser Alm

A return trip to Innsbruck will cost you from 30,000 points. ­ Taxes and fees apply from €30. Book at flysas.com

1 CROSS THE WORLD WITH A CROSS-COUNTRY STAR Cross-country skier Anna Haag has performed in ­competitions all over the world including the ­ Vancouver Olympics in 2010, where she won two silver medals. Here are her favorite ski destinations.

Davos, Switzerland

A Swiss gem, only an hour’s drive from Zurich, where you can enjoy both cross-country and alpine skiing. You’ll find something here for all levels, and there are lessons right in the middle of the town for beginners. The best coffee is served at KaffeeKlatsch and rumor has it that one of the region’s best chefs can be found at Hotel Seehof’s restaurant.

Anna Haag

Whistler, Canada

seehofdavos.ch

This has a special place in my heart as it’s where I enjoyed the greatest experience you can have as an athlete, winning an Olympic medal. The trails go through vast forests where you can barely see the sky, but it’s best known as a place for alpine skiers. There’s really something for everyone here. Stay at the Hilton Hotel right by the slopes and buy your training gear at Lululemon.

Grövelsjön, Dalarna, Sweden

hiltonwhistler.com shop.lululemon.com

The jewel of a mountain where I grew up skiing. In the high season, there are over 100km of trails going over to the Norwegian side and back again. It’s perfect for longer runs, whether you’re racking up the kilometers for the Vasaloppet or just enjoying the scenery. For a great place to stay, check out Lövåsgårdens Fjällhotell or Storsätra Fjällhotell. lovasgarden.se storsatra.se

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Grönklitt, Orsa, Sweden

Seiser Alm, Italy

This is the Vasaloppet center where you can choose between the World Cup trail or what the locals call the “Danish mile” (because it’s so easy). There is a lovely feeling of ­being part of a family on the slopes and there are lots of cabins in the area where you can stay. My youth coach, and winner of the Vasaloppet in 1985 and 1986, Bengt Hassis, has a ski school here if you want to improve your technique. langdskola.se

St. Moritz/Pontresina, Switzerland

I’ve prepared for many championships and improved my form and technique on the excellent trails at Pontresina. St. Moritz is perhaps best known as a destination for the jet set, with luxury hotels and boutiques, but it has some of the best skiing conditions I’ve experienced. St. Moritz is also hosting the World Championships in alpine skiing in 2017. stmoritz2017.ch

Silver Star, Canada

1 There are trails here across varied terrain ranging from 1,800 to over 2,000m above sea level. In February, they hold the Moonlight Marathon, a ski marathon in the moonlight with torches lining the route. I recommend Hotell Urthaler, where we stayed while preparing for the Olympics in Sochi in 2014.

The houses are painted in all kinds of colors such as yellow and lilac at this remarkable ski resort. There are impressive amounts of snow from early December and you can’t leave here without eating a proper hamburger at one of the slightly hippieinspired cafés.

seiseralm.com

skisilverstar.com

november 2016

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scandinavian traveler features skiing

THE WORLD OF THE ALPINE ACE

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At Sochi in 2014, ­Henrik ­Kristoffersen became the youngest male medal winner in Olympic alpine ­skiing. He knows a thing or two about the world’s best ­skiing resorts. Here are his favorites. Henrik

Kristoffersen

Photo by Ola Matson

Marikollen Skisenter, Rælingen, Norway

These are my home slopes where I put in all the hours and learned how to be good at skiing. I don’t know the hotels very well, because I stay at home when I’m here! marikollen.no

Salzburg, Austria

A huge advantage for me in moving to Austria is its central location in terms of the World Cup. It means I can stay at home instead of living out of a bag or staying in a hotel. My coach’s parents have a hotel in ­Ramsau called Bergschlössl.

1

This way to Oslo

A return trip to Oslo will earn you from 500 points in SAS Go. Book at flysas.com

bergschloessl-ramsau.at

Saas-Fee, Switzerland

Photo by Skistar

A nice summer ski resort. I came here with the Rælingen Ski Club around the age of 10. It was my first skiing trip abroad. You can stay at Hotel Ambiente. hotel-ambiente.ch

Schladming, Austria

This is where my life turned upside down. I won my first World Cup race as an 18-year-old, ahead of Marcel Hirscher and Felix Neureuther – the two best slalom skiers for the past seven to eight years. Two days before, I’d been number two. There’s a big difference between first and second. Schladming has the world’s largest après-ski in the finish area. After a long day on the slopes, five floors of après-ski have to be worth a visit. tenne.com/hohenhaus-tenne-schladming

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Trysil, Norway

A home away from home. My grandparents had a cabin a half-hour away, so when I was younger I trained a lot here on vacation. 1

trysil.no

Beaver Creek, Colorado, US

This is an incredibly nice place and the snow is quite different than what we’re used to in the World Cup in

Europe. They call it “hero snow.” It’s quite fine-grained, not so icy, and a little drier. There’s something here for beginners and pros alike. beavercreek.com

Val d’Isère, France

This is in a proper valley with high mountains. It’s really steep here. I’d say it’s one of the top two toughest giant slalom slopes in the world. valdisere.com

november 2016

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scandinavian traveler encounters xxx xxx thom hell

Your name, sir? My name is Thomas Helland. My artist name is Thom Hell.

Who’s your best friend? My son. He thinks I’m the best father in the world and he’s right of course.

Where do you live? I’m Norwegian but I just moved to Lund, Sweden.

What’s your biggest dream? And your biggest nightmare? My biggest dream is to be able to keep on playing music for a living. My biggest nightmare is the opposite of that: not being able to play music for a living.

Where did you last travel to and where will you go next? Kristiansand. And I’m going to Oslo soon. Kristiansand and Oslo are my most frequent destinations. Business or pleasure? Mostly business, but I do enjoy an alcoholic beverage during the flight.

What’s the last movie you saw? A movie about a tiger called Daniel. He goes to pre-school and they learn different things and then they sing weird songs about it. My son loves it!

Who is your family? I have a girlfriend and a 3-yearold son.

What’s your earliest memory? Not ­being able to climb onto a ­rocking horse.

What’s your profession? I’m a singer and musician. To be honest, I don’t think I’m good at doing anything else.

Who’s your biggest idol or role model? My biggest idol and inspiration is Paul McCartney. I don’t believe in role models. They’re boring.

What else have you done? I’ve been the supporting act for Neil Young, Burt Bacharach and Sting and that makes me feel both proud and humble. What do you do when you’re not working? I mostly hang out with my fam­ ily and watch TV – series mostly. I am also very fond of sleeping. How would your Oscar speech begin? “I’m just a simple guy from the south…” How much cash are you ­carrying at the ­moment? I haven’t carried cash for years. What’s in your pockets right now? My Elvis card holder (left back pocket), keys and snuff (left front pocket), iPhone (right back pocket) and three plectrums (small right front pocket). The main right front pocket is empty. That used to be the cash pocket. 74

LER A T R U E T R AV E

HAVE GUITAR, WILL TRAVEL Thom Hell is a Norwegian ­Grammy-winning musican. He doesn’t think he would be ­good at anything else, although he does agree with his son that he’s the world’s best father. By Risto Pakarinen Photo by Mimsy Møller / TT

Thom Hell Age: 40 Awards and achievements: Three-time winner of the Norwegian Grammy Award. Career: Singer, songwriter, composer and ­producer. Has released eight albums. His latest, Happy ­Rabbit, is being released in November.

What would you do if you weren’t working in your current profession? I would probably be a ­carpenter. What city would you like to return to? I’d really like to visit ­Mumbai again. Aisle, window or middle? Window, and I don’t know why because I can never sleep on planes. I guess I’m a cloud ­watcher. What’s your party trick or ­hidden talent? I’m pretty good at wrapping napkin fans. Finish the following ­sentence: “A funny thing h ­ appened to me on the way to…” …the escalator. People were standing on the left.

november 2016

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La Diagonela



SkiiNg flAt ANd loW

Travelling to Switzerland to go Nordic skiing may seem unnecessary for Scandinavians, but there are actually plenty of good reasons for visiting the Engadin Valley. One of the foremost is the Ski Classics race La Diagonela.

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omewhat surprisingly, Ramun Ratti has time to take us to lunch. No matter that it’s the day before the 2015 version of La Diagonela, the premier event of the year in his tiny Swiss village of Zuoz in the Engadin valley. Ramun is Co-president of the organizing committee for the cross-country skiing race that fell into the Ski Classics series in 2014 when Jizerská padesátka in neighboring Czech Republic failed to provide enough snow. Now Ramun has to prove that La Diagonela really belongs in the top division of Nordic ski races. But the days leading up to the race have been mild and the exquisitely prepared tracks have all but melted away. A shorter option for the race has been laid, but it remains to be seen if even this track will hold. Still, Ramun has time to treat us to Calanda beer and capuns,

local Grisons dumplings, in an ancient restaurant in downtown Zuoz. As we sit down, he remembers that phones don’t work in the restaurant because the walls are too thick. Still he is comfortingly calm. I ask him if he doesn’t need to be available. He says he has good people taking care of everything, that they have prepared well and that it will be great tomorrow. but the morning after is not great. Yes, it has been snowing during the night, but now there is too much of it. New day, new obstacles to overcome. At six o’clock Ramun gets an avalanche report saying that the race is not in danger. A 15-kilometer course has been secured, where the short version, called La Pachifica, will race once and the long version (La Diagonela) will make three rounds. It has stopped raining, but the

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temperature at the starting line is still a critical 5°C when the buzzer sounds. The race is on. The villages we pass – Madulain, La Punt and Chamues-ch – are so unbelievably quaint that I suspect they have been designed by someone from Disney. Crowds are sparse on the relatively flat first part, but increase dramatically when we ski straight through La Punt. Returning towards Zuoz there are more hills, and the heavy snow forces our thigh muscles to work hard. In order for us to go under the road and up towards the goal in Zuoz, a helper has been posted where the track veers off. He points to the right and hollers “E-finish line!” in a halfItalian accent. apparently, the swiss like

to ski cross country as well. A good sign of this is the sensational number of tracks available along the Engadin and neighboring valleys. At 8 a.m. every morning, 220 kilometers of cross-country ski tracks – for both Nordic style and skating – are freshly prepared all the way from Maloja at the top of the valley to Zernez at the bottom. Beginners usually prefer the flat tracks on the lakes of Sils, Silvaplana and Champfer. Those who want to see how tough the Engadin Skimarathon is can test-race the track between Maloja and S-chanf. For more hills, the valleys of Roseg, Morteratsch, Bever and Fex offer tougher challenges. More adventurous limit-pushers take the Bernina Express train east to Diavolezza, then follow the train tracks up the Bernina Pass. And for that last push before spring, there is always the glacier at Bondo Alp, where the ski season doesn’t really get started until the middle of March.

however, the minute swiss accuracy does sometimes backfire, even without help from the weather. As a result of the late route change for the 2015 Diagonela, many details have been changed at the last moment.

Signage has been altered, officials have been assigned new responsibilities and the skiers have quickly had to aquaint themselves with a new course. It seems inevitable that something will go wrong. And it does. The Swedish skier Bill Impola has a comfortable lead of more than a minute when he takes a wrong turn two kilometers from the finish. Or rather, he doesn’t turn to cross underneath the road to Zuoz but instead follows the snowmobile in front of him. So what should have been a Swedish triumph becomes a Norwegian triple in the men’s event. As the amicable neighbors they are, the feel that they haven’t won “for real” and try to give Impola the victory. But that’s not how it works. The only thing that counts is who crosses the finish line first. And in Impola’s own words after the race: – It’s just sports. There are more important things in life. Although Ramun surely didn’t see it that way, he and his team must have done something right. Because La Diagonela was once again one of the Ski Classics races in 2016. Yet again, the snow conditions were not the most favorable and the race had to be shortened to 55 kilometers (30 km for the Pachifica). And again, the three top places in the men’s event were claimed by Norwegians. The next Diagonela, planned for January 21, 2017, is also part of the Ski Classics tour, which this season also includes a “Prologue” race in Pontresina already in November to open up the series. So Ramun Ratti has pulled off his goal of establishing La Diagonela among the big-boy cross-country skiing events of the year. His secret, I suspect, is this: Get good people, prepare obsessively, hope for good weather but don’t count on it, and pencil in time for taking people to lunch. See more information: www.ladiagonela.ch/en

Visma Ski Classics 2016–2017 Prologue | Pontresina, Switzerland | November 27th | 10 km Sgambeda | Livigno, Italy | December 3rd | 35 km Vasaloppet China | Changchun, China | January 4th | 50 km Kaiser Maximilian Lauf | Seefeld, Austria | January 14th | 60 km La Diagonela | Engadin, Switzerland | January 21st | 65 km Marcialonga | Trentino, Italy | January 29th | 70 km Toblach-Cortina | Toblach-Cortina d’Ampezzo, Italy | February 11th | 50 km Jizerská padesátka | Bedrichov, Czech Republic | February 19th | 50 km Vasaloppet | Sälen-Mora, Sweden | March 5th | 90 km Birkebeinerrennet | Rena-Lillehammer, Norway | March 18th | 54 km Årefjällsloppet | Åre, Sweden | March 25th | 55 km Reistadløpet | Setermoen-Bardufoss, Norway | April 1st | 50 km Ylläs-Levi | Ylläs-Levi, Finland | April 8th | 60 km

scandinavian traveler outlines xxx xxx neo

A SHORT-HAUL FLEET­­ FOR THE FUTURE The introduction of the A320neo aircraft is just the first step in SAS’s plan to upgrade its entire short- and medium-haul fleet – an upgrade that puts both sustainability and the travel experience front and center. By Judi Lembke Photos by Airbus

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ow that SAS’s long-haul upgrade is complete – and has been universally praised – ­attention has turned to the ­­100 aircraft in the short- and ­medium-haul fleet. The A320neo is the most efficient aircraft in its market segment. It will replace 30 planes in the SAS short- and mediumhaul fleet, while the 70 remaining aircraft

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will be re-fit to bring them in line with the product offering on the A320neo. “The A320neo is the first physical evidence of the total makeover of our shortand medium-haul fleet,” says Rickard ­Gustafson, SAS CEO. “The neo not only features the latest technology, it also ­allows us to introduce an entirely new ­design experience, putting traveler ­comfort at the forefront.” november 2016

scandinavian traveler xxx xxx

A320neo uses 15 to 20% less fuel per flight compared with the aircraft in use today.

‘The neo not only ­features the ­latest technology, it also ­allows us to introduce an ­entirely new ­design experience, putting ­traveler comfort at the ­forefront’ november 2016

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scandinavian traveler outlines neo

The A320neo will replace 30 planes in SAS’s short- and medium-haul fleet.

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AS is committed to making the travel experience as joyful as possible, whether the traveler is at the gate, in an SAS lounge or on a plane. This is why the new short- and medium-haul cabins, which reflect the upgrade on SAS’s long-haul fleet, are extremely stylish and relaxed and provide the most up-to-date travel experience. “Historically speaking, flying has been about dreams and the feeling of exploring the world,” says Eivind Roald, SAS Executive Vice President and Chief Commercial Officer. “In recent years, though, some of the glamor has been lost. We’re putting the human experience back into flying, taking care of travelers’ needs from start to finish. We’ve asked people what they want and we’re giving it to them.” One of the biggest things travelers want is WiFi that reflects their needs. “This is not the usual airplane WiFi ­experience that European customers are used to,” explains Johan Mägi, Head of 80

Onboard Product and Services. “The WiFi we’re introducing is more like your home experience. It’s fast – 12 megabits per ­person – which means that travelers can stream their on-demand ­services such as Netflix, HBO and Viaplay. The new WiFi

THE UPGRADE A320neos will replace one third of the fleet by 2020 (starting in ­October 2016) 15 to 20% less fuel per flight Remainder of fleet to be upgraded with new cabins High-speed WiFi from summer 2017: 12 megabits per person, free for all EuroBonus members and travelers in SAS Plus

service is free for all E ­ uro­Bonus members and travelers in SAS Plus.”

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ther neo cabin improvements include softer, lighter and more comfortable seat cushions, more legroom and USB power outlets at every seat, allowing travelers to make the best use of WiFi onboard and to be fully charged and ready at their destination. Additionally, a new col‘We’re putting the or scheme is ­being human ­experience ­introduced back into flying, using soft ­taking care of grays with wood ­travelers’ needs ­accents. from start to ­finish’ Mood lighting that ­reflects different times of day will give the cabin the feeling of being in your living room or a lounge. november 2016

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scandinavian traveler outlines neo

THE INTERIOR Extra legroom More comfortable seats New color scheme Mood lighting

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AS has made sustainability a big pillar in its long-term planning. The introduction of the A320neo, which uses 15 to 20% less fuel per flight compared with the aircraft in use today, along with the use of ­biofuel perfectly positions SAS as a leader in sustainable travel. The cabin upgrade on the short- and medium-haul fleet also fits well with SAS’s sustainability agenda, since with the exception of food servings, everything is now made from lighter or recycled mat­ erials. This helps ensure that design functionality and comfort are increased while the environmental impact is reduced. “Our aim is to increase both functionality and customer comfort,” says Lars Andersen Resare, Head of Environment and CSR. “When we do upgrades we always strive to go lighter.” “We want to drive, support and demand the development of more efficient aircraft without skimping on traveler enjoyment,” says Eivind Roald. “Introducing the neo and overhauling the rest of the fleet means we don’t have to buy as many carbon emission credit allowances, a saving we can pass on to our customers while still giving a superior travel ­experience.” The A320neo and upgrades to the rest of the short- and medium-haul fleet will service SAS’s Scandinavian and European routes and will be completed by 2020. “We know it’s important to our travelers to fly with an airline that takes sustain­ ability seriously while delivering an optimal flying experience,” says CEO Rickard Gustafson. “Upgrading the short- and ­medium-haul fleet allows us to support our travelers’ varying needs and we expect the reaction to be as overwhelmingly positive as it was for our long-haul upgrade.” 82

Kristine Mayer, Senior M ­ anager of Product Design and Communication at SAS, has been responsible for the design upgrade of the SAS long-, medium- and short- haul fleets.

The new neo cabins feature USB power outlets at each seat.

november 2016

scandinavian traveler xxx xxx

THE POWER OF FRUIT The people who work at smoothie company Froosh have high ambitions. As well as promoting the ­benefits of fresh fruit, they also want to reduce ­poverty in the developing world. By Jessica Johansson Photos by Rasmus Flindt Pedersen

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november 2016

scandinavian traveler highlights smoothies

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roosh was founded in 2008 when the fresh and healthy takeout food and beverage trend was booming in the US and UK. The people at Froosh felt that the Nordic markets were ready for fresh smoothies, too. They started creating smoothies made purely from fresh fruit, without any pre­ servatives or added sugar. They distrib­ uted them in glass bottles, which are more environmentally-friendly than p ­ lastic ­bottles. It turned out that the Nordic markets were more than ready for fresh fruit smoothies. Froosh grew from having three employees in Stockholm to having offices in Copenhagen, Stockholm, Oslo, Helsinki and Japan. Today, over 60 people work at Froosh. And the company has high ambitions, says Anna Hagemann Rise, Communica­ tion and Public Affairs Director at Froosh. As well as trying to get people to drink more fresh smoothies packed with vita­ mins from healthy fruit, the company wants to help reduce poverty in develop­ ing countries through promoting trade.

Anna Hagemann Rise of Froosh.

FROOSH SMOOTHIES

Buy wit h points

Froosh smoothies are made of 100% fresh fruit, without preservatives or added sugar. The original Froosh bottle is made of glass. The shorty smoothie, which is sold on all SAS flights in Europe, contains 150ml, or one portion of fruit, and is packed in a container made from environmentally-friendly cardboard.

november 2016

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scandinavian traveler highlights smoothies

Kevas George, a banana ­orchard worker in Malawi. Froosh hopes to support the farmers they work with through the message of trade not aid.

THE SMOOTH TRAVELER

Photo by Nicky De Silva Photography

Anna Hagemann Rise of smoothie company Froosh travels regularly for work. She has learned some tricks to survive long flights and to be prepared for a smooth arrival.

“Trade is key for sustainable develop­ ment in poor countries,” says Hagemann Rise. “At least 50% of the fruit we buy to make our smoothies comes from develop­ ing countries and mostly from pretty small fruit farms that are sometimes run by a family or a single farmer.”

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he company believes that these small fruit farmers can play a major role in helping their countries become more prosperous through job cre­ ation, generating foreign exchange and tax revenues. And by promoting this phil­ osophy through its “fruit on a mission” program, Froosh hopes to support the farmers they work with and bring the mes­ sage that trade can generate prosperity in a sustainable way to the wider world. “We cannot continue to believe that we

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can only help a poor country by sending them aid money,” says Hagemann Rise. “If we instead trade with them, we will help them to develop by themselves, through business. We call it trade, not aid.”

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s part of their fruit on a mission program, every staff member at Froosh gets to travel to fruit farms in the developing world to learn all they can about fruit and see with their own eyes the impact trade can have on building prosperous communities. “First of all, we want our staff to know all about the fruit we use in our smooth­ ies,” says Hagemann Rise. “How it is har­ vested and grown. But it’s also important that they get to see the living conditions of the farm workers and the impact the farms have on the communities. The income the

To avoid jetlag, I avoid naps after arriving at destinations with time differences until it’s time to go to bed. Eating light during the day of the trip is another way to avoid jetlag. If I’m going to a business meeting or to do a lecture at a university and won’t have a chance to check in to my hotel beforehand, I always put a pair of nice high heeled shoes in my laptop bag, and wear my comfy sneakers during the trip. Then I just change to the other pair of shoes when I arrive at the meeting. When traveling from a cold country to a hot one, I wear thin, warm tights and maybe a skirt and layered thin blouses. That way I can take off the thin layers when I arrive at the hot destination and just put them in my handbag. Make sure to bring sandals in your carry-on – it’s terrible to wear covered shoes in hot, sticky climates. Always pack an extra outfit in your carry-on in case your suitcase is delayed. Comfy earplugs, a facemask and good headphones are also musts. I relax during long flights by listening to recorded nature sounds or to mindfulness meditation recordings.

november 2016

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scandinavian traveler highlights smoothies

Photo by Salon 39

FOUR FREDERIKSBERG TIPS

Photo by Froosh

Anna Hagemann Rise of Froosh lives in Frederiksberg, a fashionable part of Copenhagen known for its green spaces, cafés and shops. Here are her favorite places in the area.

Café Granola

I come here for the perfect breakfasts. I like the rye bread and boiled eggs and the amazing atmosphere. It’s on my favorite street in the heart of the city. Værnedamsvej 5 • granola.dk

Sticks ’n’ Sushi

Great service and sushi with a western twist as well as delicious Japanese drinks. You can also find branches of this restaurant in other parts of Copenhagen. Gammel Kongevej 120 • sushi.dk

Café Metropolitain

‘The income the farmer gets can help improve the living standards for the entire village’

Owned by my husband, this is a popular central location that serves a great Aperol spritz and moules frites, as well as many other goodies. This is a perfect place to hang out with friends and family.

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Solbjergvej 6 • metropolitain.dk

Salon 39

You’ll find the best after-hour drinks in Copenhagen here and the cocktails are mixed with freshly-pressed juices. They also serve dinner and the menu changes every month. Vodroffsvej 39 • salon39.dk Anna Hagemann Rise is passionate about the role responsible business can play in reducing poverty. 88

farmer gets can help improve the living standards for the entire village. For instance, the profit from a banana plantation in Guatemala we work with has enabled the farmers to buy a small house that they don’t have to pay rent for. They have built a school and even have classes for children with disabilities. They have also built a church and a health clinic for the workers and their families. In Ethiopia, we have also witnessed schools being built and teachers being paid as well as lunches being provided for the children – by the farms.”

agemann Rise is very passionate about the role responsible business can play in reducing poverty. And she loves to spread the word about how trade can help reduce poverty. She gives speeches regularly at different universities and business fairs. “We also attended WomenDeliver this spring, the largest gathering in the world on women rights,” she says. “And we got the chance to present our mission to the Danish Crown Princess as well as the ­Danish Minister of Foreign Affairs.” november 2016

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CHALLENGE THE CHESS CHAMPION The Norwegian world chess champion, grandmaster Magnus Carlsen, has a Play Magnus chess app now available to SAS travelers. Pro tip: “Don’t be afraid of me. If you’re afraid, then you’ve already lost.” By Inga Ragnhild Holst Photo by Nicklas Gustafsson

agnus Carlsen travels a lot. In fact, you’ll find him on a plane about 200 days of the year. He often sleeps on his flights. But when he’s not sleeping, he plays chess against himself on the Play Magnus app. “Sometimes I play against Magnus aged 23,” Carlsen, now aged 25, says. “And I don’t always come out on top.” Carlsen is called the Mozart of chess. He has been playing the game since he was five years old. He was only 13 when he became a chess grandmaster, the third youngest person ever to achieve that level. Carlsen’s exciting style of play is also making chess tournaments appealing to a wider audience than has been the case in recent years. It’s the speed, the drama and the breathtaking moments. He’s modest, though, and says that you, too, can become a better player if you have a good opponent to practice on. And what better opponent to hone your skills with than Carlsen himself? SAS travelers can now do just that – play against the grandmaster. SAS has teamed up with Play Magnus to offer the chess app on the SAS App that is used by a million travelers.

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THE PLAY MAGNUS APP will also soon be available in the onboard entertainment system on SAS’s intercontinental flights. And if you think Carlsen is too intimidating an opponent, you’ll be able to play against other travelers on your flight. “We also want to look into the possibility of travelers on different intercontinental flights playing against each other,” says Eivind Roald, Executive Vice President Sales and Marketing at SAS. november 2016

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scandinavian traveler challenges xxx xxx magnus carlsen

f you want to improve, it’s important to have an opponent that's your equal or better,” Carlsen says. “In the app, you’ll meet ­Magnus at various levels. You can play against me aged five or how I play now.” It’s worth noting, though, that the average player of Carlsen’s app loses to the eightyear-old Magnus. “With a few days of chess training online and some good opponents, it won’t take long for you to be good,” he adds. “You don’t need any experience to play Magnus aged five in the app. Don’t be afraid of me. If you’re afraid, then you’ve already lost. You have to believe in your own ability and not double-­check everything. Then just hope for the best.”

“I

CARLSEN’S CHESS TIPS For beginners

Take control of the center. If you control the center, you control the entire board.

For intermediate amateurs

Watch out for the double attack. If you have two pieces that are unprotected, you can quickly find a queen or rook attacking both.

For advanced players

Always think practically. If you play against the thirteen-year-old me, you’ll know that he plays an extremely practical game. The 2004 me doesn’t really care if he has a poor pawn structure, as long as he can fool you tactically.

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Magnus Carlsen

Born: 1990 in ­Tønsberg. Grew up in Bærum, west of Oslo Age: 25 Education: High school Career: Made his ­international breakthrough as a 13-yearold in 2004 in the tournament in Wijk aan Zee in the Netherlands. Became a chess grand master the same year. World champion in 2013 and 2014. World champion in rapid chess in 2014 and 2015. World champion in blitz chess in 2009 and 2014. Has won several national and inter­ national sports awards, including the Chess Oscar. He has also had several modeling assignments. Right now: The movie Magnus was shown at the Tribeca Film Festival in April this year and was released in theaters in the fall.

Magnus onboard Watch the movie Magnus on the inflight entertainment system on SAS’s intercontinental flights.

november 2016

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A signet ring showing the family coat of arms is worn with pride by generation after generation. Jovenia Juveler has many years of experience making signet rings; it is a workmenship that demands high precision and skills. Engraving can be performed in all gemstones, even in diamonds. The most common stone is a stratyfied onyx in different shades of colours. Jovenia Juveler has a large stock of various rings.

Place your order here: www.nerostein.com [email protected] • +47 21950185

JOVENIA JUVELER – Mäster Samuelsgatan 2 – 111 44 Stockholm – Sweden Tel. +46 (0)8 611 25 66 – www.joveniajuveler.se

scandinavian traveler xxx xxx

Make your dreams come true with SAS

Is it your dream to make your own wine? Or to do astronaut training in Florida? With SAS Dreams, the chance to fulfill your dream has become a reality. By Judi Lembke Photos by Gettyimages

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scandinavian traveler explores sas dreams

‘Our members have dreams and bucket lists and we will make sure we fulfill those dreams’

Making bags at the Louis Vuitton ­factory.

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veryone’s bucket list is different. Some of us want to train with the world’s top ski­ ers. Others would love to taste the best champagnes with the world’s most re­ nowned champagne expert guiding us. And still others would jump at the chance to visit ­Silicon Valley and meet with some of the greatest ­business minds of our time. But if you think your dreams are unachievable, think again. The new SAS Dreams program is opening doors to the most exciting, exclusive and unique ex­ periences the world has to offer – and these experi­ ences will be available by invitation only to SAS’s most loyal EuroBonus members.

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AS Dreams began as a pilot program last year, giving SAS the opportunity to see if Dreams was something members wanted. Unsurprisingly, it turned out that EuroBonus members were very keen to begin fulfilling their dreams the SAS way. “We already know that our flyers are very experi­ enced travelers: they’ve been around and have seen a lot of the world,” says Oddrun Cecilie Svegaarden, Head of SAS Dreams. “But we also know that our members have dreams and bucket lists and we will make sure we fulfill those dreams, giving them once in a lifetime experiences.”

EuroBonus members enjoy a ski trip with SAS Dreams. november 2016

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scandinavian traveler explores sas dreams

One dream in the pilot program took place last ­ ctober: a four-day trip to Ramsau, in the Austrian O Alps, where many national ski teams were training. More than 30 EuroBonus members attended and were given the chance to improve their skills with some of the top skiers in the world. They also had the opportunity to stay with and eat alongside legends such as Norway’s Kristin Størmer Steira and O ­ ddbjørn Hjelmeset. The response was so overwhelmingly ­positive that a similar program was offered this ­October, with several EuroBonus members going ­­­­on the trip for the second time. “Cross-country skiing is something I do a lot and it’s something that I really care about,” says Euro­Bonus member and SAS Dreams invitee Jens Eivind ­Kobbeltvedt. “After last year’s trip, Oddrun Cecilie Svegaarden which was so well organized and exciting – and at a great destination, with well-known instructors – I jumped at the chance to do it again. It was a great way to meet ­others who share the same interest. As long as SAS Dreams has experiences that include my interests, such as hiking, biking and cultural themes, I’d love to do more.”

SAS DREAMS Each trip is unique Trips range from one to five days You can purchase trips with a ­combination of EuroBonus points and cash Earn points as you fulfill your dreams Dreams can be customized for ­corporate c­ lients or special ­occasions By invitation only to loyal E ­ uroBonus members Space is limited, so book early!

‘It was a great way to meet ­others who share the same ­interest’

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n 2017, loyal EuroBonus members will be in­ vited to experience at least 16 SAS-designed dreams, including meeting the stars of the New York Rangers, visiting the Louis Vuitton factory in Paris (where you can design your own bag), training with astronauts at Kennedy Space Center in Florida and making your own wine from start to finish in Napa Valley – which you’ll get in a couple of years when it’s matured. In 2018, the conversation will become two-way. “Starting in 2018, ‘We’re tailoring we will engage our travelers to share the SAS Dreams to inner dreams that they people’s interests would like to have fulfilled,” says and desires’ Svegaarden. ­“Engaging with travelers is important to us, and we’ll even be asking people outside of Scandinavia what dreams they’d like to have fulfilled in the Scandinavian countries. “SAS Dreams can also be customized for corporate ­clients as well as for special occasions for members who are planning things like weddings, anniversaries or family reunions,” says Svegaarden. In 2017, SAS Dreams will attend SXSW in Austin and the Mobile World Congress in Barcelona with some of its corporate clients. These are among the world’s greatest tech and consumer trend conferences and SAS knows how important it is to be there. “We want SAS Dreams to be relevant to all of our customers, both business and pleasure. We’re tailoring it to people’s interests and desires, giving them experiences they can’t get anywhere else. You won’t find these dreams on Google.” Read more at sasdreams.com 98

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LET SILENCE SPEAK

THE NEW MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER PLUG-IN HYBRID FEATURING EV PRIORITY MODE In addition to sophisticated safety systems, a new media system, and an improved four-wheel drive, the new Outlander Plug-in Hybrid is equipped with EV Priority Mode. A mode that lets you select electric drive just by pushing a button – taking you into the silence, in silence.

• SUPER E-CAR • REFINED SAFETY SYSTEMS •EV PRIORITY MODE •IMPROVED 4WD • UP TO 50 KM ON ELECTRICITY • NEW MEDIA SYSTEM • QUICK CHARGE 25 MIN •SPACIOUS SUV • 8 YEAR BATTERY WARRANTY •1 500 KG TOW LIMIT

PRICE FROM 395 500 SEK, BIK FROM 971 SEK/MONTH Weighted consumption 1.7 l/100 km and 134 Wh/km, CO 2 41 g/km. All prices are distributor’s suggested retail prices. Net benefit-in-kind value per month at 50 % marginal tax.The car in the photo is extra equipped..

5 YEAR MITSUBISHI WARRANTY

scandinavian traveler highlights sas 70

NO SMOKING PLEASE It is almost 20 years ago since smoking was banned on all SAS flights. The road to the ban however began many years earlier. By Risto Pakarinen Photos by Shutterstock and SAS

november 2016

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scandinavian traveler highlights sas 70

The SAS story Read about SAS’s history at  scandinaviantraveler.com/sas70

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hese days, not many ­people pay attention to the cabin crew’s announcement about no smoking on the flight. Travelers who do notice probably wonder if it’s still a necessary thing to say. Today’s travelers take non-smoking flights for granted and smokers are well used to getting their fixes inside the smoking rooms at airports (where they exist). But it hasn’t always been this way. The attitude towards smoking on planes used to be so different, in fact, that back in the 1950s, SAS even had its own brand of cigarettes with the SAS logo printed on each individual cigarette. The first ban at SAS came in January 1986 when Linjeflyget, SAS’s Swedish ­domestic subsidiary, banned smoking on its flights. It was a natural first step and one that even smokers could handle since Linjeflyget’s longest flight was the 65-minute Skellefteå to Stockholm route. There had been non-smoking test flights before this and according to surveys, even the majority of smokers thought the flights were more pleasant without smoke. “It was wonderful to have a smoke-free work environment,” Monica Persson, a Linjeflyget flight attendant, told Swedish Tobakfakta. “Even though smoking was only allowed at the back of the plane, there was often heavy smoke in the entire cabin. It often made my eyes water.” In the early days of commercial aviation, travelers could smoke anywhere on the plane. Then in the 1970s, as public concerns about the effects of second-hand smoke started to rise, smokers and non-smokers were separated from each other.

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ver the years, ­airlines experimented with different ways of separating smokers from non-smokers. SAS, like other airlines, tried separating them vertically so that smokers sat on the left side of the aisle and non-smok-

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ers on the right with a smoke curtain between the two sections. The horizontal division was implemented, however, after non-smokers protested. The hostility between smokers and non-smokers sometimes reached alarming heights. In May 1986, for example, the Swedish newspaper Expressen reported that on a flight from Washington to New York, a fight broke out between smokers and non-smokers that forced the plane to land in Baltimore. Newspapers also published stories about a flight attendant wearing a gas mask while serving dinner in the smokers’ section and a co-pilot who was fined for pulling down the oxygen mask because of the chain-­smoking antics of his captain.

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n 1988, SAS made domestic flights in Sweden and Norway non-smoking and the year after, the policy was expanded to domestic flights in Denmark and flights between the Nordic countries. In 1996, two years after smoking areas were removed from schoolyards in ­Sweden, SAS flights to the Benelux ­countries, France, Germany, Switzerland, Austria and the UK became smoke-free. And it was incredibly only 19 years ago, in 1997, that SAS banned smoking on all flights. This coincided with the EU ban on smoking on flights in member states.

“We have introduced non-smoking in stages,” said Jan Olson, VP of Business Development at SAS. “Our customer surveys show that an overwhelming majority of people prefer a totally smoke-free environment onboard. They also show that as many as 60% of travelers who smoke ­accept the introduction of a non-smoking policy, and that our frequent travelers are the ones who are the most positive about non-smoking. Experience from our non-smoking European flights tells us that most smokers can cope with the situation without having to use substitutes. SAS’s choice to be among the totally non-smoking airlines goes well in line with our goal to set a good environmental example.” In 1997, the internet was still in its early years – there was no SAS App – so to inform travelers of the new policy, SAS published a brochure written in four languages that was distributed to travel agencies. Today, smoking on the plane is a thing of the past as is the need to produce a ­brochure explaining why flights are ­non-­smoking. But what about e-cigarettes? SAS has taken this into consideration and lists them as prohibited items on its website: “Electronic cigarettes, cigars and pipes are not allowed to be used onboard.” Onboard ­also includes the bathrooms, in case you were wondering. november 2016

GET AN AVIS CAR FOR A WHOLE WEEK WHEN BOOKING A RETURN TICKET TO CALIFORNIA

BOOK BY 30/11

Valid for bookings made from Denmark, Norway and Sweden when minimum two return tickets are booked. See the full terms and conditions on sas.dk, sas.no and sas.se. Travel from Dec 1–13, 2016 or from Jan 11–Mar 31, 2017.

FLIGHT GUIDE updates

ask the pilot

on the ground

up in the air

eurobonus

ask eivind

fleet

maps

Beer of the highest quality What’s better than a beer at 10,000 meters? A beer-tasting session at 10,000 meters, of course! And we just had one onboard an SAS plane. he beer tasting session was held to promote the new collaboration between SAS and Danish microbrewery Mikkeller. “SAS has upped the game once again,” says Mikkel Borg Bjergsø, founder and owner of Mikkeller. “We’ve probably set a world record for the highest altitude beer-tasting ever done. We love this company for breaking the boundaries as a commercial airline.” Peter Lawrance, SAS Head Chef & Manager Meal Planning, said, “The only option travelers usually have on a plane is dull, tasteless beer in a can. We wanted to do something different and our big 75cl bottled beers really set a new standard for beverages served onboard flights. We’ve now done nine different beers together and we’re just getting started.”

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Making business travel work for you and your company Learn more about SAS Credits on Scandinavian Traveler’s website.

the SAS Credits program to find out how it can work for your company and sign up.

AS Credits is the perfect loyalty program for companies of all sizes, whether you’re a budding startup or an established or growing ­enterprise. On the Scandinavian Traveler website you can now read about

BOREAL, Norway’s leading public transport provider along with fast-growing podcast platform Acast are just two SAS Credits members that have discovered the enormous advantages of joining the program such as streamlined travel management and

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november 2016

reduced travel costs. You can find their stories and others at scandinaviantraveler.com/ sascredits SAS UNDERSTANDS that ­companies of all sizes need an airline loyalty program that meets their diverse needs. SAS Credits has been developed to meet those needs for the Scandinavian and European markets, as well as

the markets in most of Asia and the US. “With SAS Credits, companies earn Credits from both SAS and our partners – and the more you spend, the more you earn,” says Jasmin Utter, SAS Head of SME Sales. “You also receive a monthly travel update and credit statement, which gives ­companies an excellent overview of their company’s ­travel spending.”

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scandinavian traveler flight guide ask the pilot

In recent years, I’ve become more afraid of flying. I’m ­terrified when there’s turbulence and can’t relax or enjoy the flight. Is turbulence dangerous or are the pilots in full control? Have you got any tips to ovecome my fear of flying?

Photo by Magnus Glans

Karin

Ask the pilot How do planes actually fly, what exactly is turbulence and why are airplane windows always round? The best people to answer your questions about the wonders of aviation are SAS pilots.

Niclas Almqvist

Age: 48 Career: Joined SAS in 1997. Flew the Fokker F-28 for two years, then the Boeing 737. Captain on the Canadair CRJ-200 at Cimber Air from 2007 to 2011. Has a background in business aviation from Hästens Sängar AB. Captain on the Boeing 737 since 2016. Home base: ARN Flies: Boeing 737 Flight hours: 13,700

Hi Karin, Many travelers feel uncomfortable during turbulence. It’s not dangerous, but I do understand the feeling of unease. Turbulence is generated in different ways. There can be turbulence on the ground when the wind is strong and gusty, in clouds due to vertical airflows and sometimes above clouds because of different wind ­directions. We always do our utmost to avoid turbulence since we know most travelers don’t like it (although some people actually do like it – believe it or not). Most of the time there’s no turbulence at all. But sometimes we have no way of avoiding it, especially during takeoff and landing and when climbing and descending through clouds. Turbulence isn’t dangerous and we are in control at all times. Planes are built to fly in and withstand these conditions. I have a friend who took a course for people with a fear of flying. He found it very helpful. This could be something for you to look into. It may also help if you tell the crew how you feel when you board the plane and maybe also ask if you can just say hello to the pilots. Flight Captain Niclas Almqvist

More aviation facts Read previously published ­questions and answers at scandinaviantraveler.com

If you also have a question about aviation, send it to [email protected] and watch for the answer in an upcoming issue. 106

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SWEDISH CONFIDENCE, EXPOR TED SINCE 1899 The 1899 heritage shirt. Timeless craftsmanship.

scandinavian traveler flight guide on the ground

On the ground Well begun is half done. Your perfect journey ­begins at home.

Flexible check-in

SAS offers several ­alternatives to standing in line at the check-in desk: Online: Go to flysas.com or use the ­check-in email you get 22 hours before ­departure By phone Answer YES to the check-in text message you get 22 hours before departure. Go to mobile.flysas.com or use the link sent with the check-in text message. SAS App Airport self-service check-in kiosks

Mobile services

If you check in via text message, the SAS mobile site, the SAS App or online, you can choose to use our mobile boarding pass on selected routes. To keep you informed about the status of your flight, we’ll send a text message with news of any cancellations or delays within 22 hours of departure.

Airport lounges

There are 13 SAS Lounges at nine different ­airports in Europe and the US. As part of Star Alliance, SAS EuroBonus Gold and ­Diamond members have access to all Star ­Alliance lounges as well as contracted ­lounges. SAS also offers SAS Business and SAS Plus travelers access to Star Alliance lounges and contracted lounges at SAS ­destinations (except for US lounges for SAS Plus travelers). SAS Go travelers can use the SAS Lounges at ­Copen­hagen, Stockholm Arlanda Terminal 5, Gothenburg, Oslo, ­Helsinki, Paris and ­Brussels airports for a €28 fee. Photo by David Thunander

Join EuroBonus

Security

Sign up free at flysas.com/eurobonus

FREE CHECKED BAGGAGE EuroBonus Silver, Gold and Diamond members enjoy an additional baggage allowance.

SAS Go

1 checked bag 23 kg + 1 carry-on 8 kg

SAS Plus

2 checked bags 23 kg + 1 carry-on 8 kg

Traveling without luggage? Try SAS Go Light. See flysas.com for deals to selected destinations.

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SAS Business

2 checked bags 32 kg + 1 carry-on 8 kg

SAS Fast Track is the quickest way through security when traveling from Copenhagen, Stockholm, Gothenburg, Oslo, Stavanger, Bergen, Ålesund, Trondheim and Bodø. SAS Fast Track is available for SAS Business or SAS Plus travelers and Euro­Bonus Gold and Diamond ­mem­­bers, plus one guest, irrespective of service class, when traveling with SAS or a Star Alliance member carrier.

SAS Smart Pass

SAS Smart Pass is a sticker you can attach to your smartphone for identification at self-­ service kiosks, security, lounges and gates. SAS Smart Pass is available to S ­ candinavian EuroBonus Gold and Diamond members when flying within Scandinavia and to Schengen member countries.

november 2016

scandinavian traveler flight guide up in the air

Photo by Magnus Glans

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Up in the air

Once we get going, you can lean back and relax. We’ll do the rest.

Seating

From luxurious business sleepers to ergonomically-designed seats for travelers in SAS Go we make sure you are sitting ­comfortably.

Food and drink

Salinda Resort Phu Quoc Island is a 5-star luxury hotel located on the front line of the beautiful Pearl Island of Asia Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam. This high class resort offers an unique and ultimate serenity, beautiful royal blue waters and friendly service, making it a highly sought destination for an exceptional luxurious getaway or the perfect ending to a tour around Indochina and Vietnam. Cua Lap Hamlet, Duong To Commune, Phu Quoc Island, Kien Giang Province, Vietnam (84-77) 399 0011 * [email protected] www.salindaresort.com

When traveling in SAS Plus within Scandinavia, assorted snacks are included in the price of your ticket. In SAS Go, various snacks can be purchased. On European flights, breakfast or a meal (depending on departure time and destination) and ­assorted snacks are included in SAS Plus. In SAS Go, the same assortment is available for ­purchase. On ­intercontinental flights, all meals and beverages are included in SAS Business and SAS Plus. In SAS Go, one non-­ alcoholic beverage is ­included with your meal. Other ­beverages, drinks and snacks are ­available for purchase. ­Coffee and tea are ­always­included on SAS flights (with the exception of certain flights).

Entertainment

Intercontinental flights offer ­movies, music and games on ­personal screens, with our refitted fleets offering new and improved inflight entertainment systems. This means more ­content, including Hollywood blockbusters and TV box sets,

on-demand services for all travelers and power outlets in all seats with extra USB charging possibilities in the screens. The refurbished planes also offer free WiFi to SAS Business and Plus travelers, and WiFi for a fee in SAS Go.

Unaccompanied minors

No other airline takes better care of your kids than SAS. Our ­unaccompanied minor service makes sure your loved ones ­arrive safe and sound. While the service is meant mainly for ­children aged 5 to 11, it is optional for 12-year-olds and older. Read more at flysas.com

Always with SAS

With SAS, what you see is what you get. There are no hidden fees. Everything you need for your trip is included in the price of your ticket. Child discounts of 25%–90% Digital newspapers in the SAS App Free coffee and tea onboard 24-hour money-back ­guarantee We are always looking for ways to improve our service. Share your ideas at flysas.com/ mysasidea

Follow SAS facebook.com/SAS instagram.com/flySAS 110

twitter.com/SAS youtube.com/flySAS november 2016

PRICE GUARANTEE and a host of BENEFITS when you book directly with us!

12 HOTELS WITH CHARACTER AND STYLE AT THE BEST ADDRESSES Stay at one of our 12 hotels and discover the vibrant heart of great cities. You’ll find a spectrum of choice – from our cosy, charming boutique hotels and smart budget hotels, to the stylish lounge atmosphere of our ultra-chic design or theme hotel – in the heart of Copenhagen and Aarhus (opening early 2017). Contact +45 8030 3045 or book directly at www.arp-hansen.com

AHHG_Koncern_210x140_UK.indd 1

02-12-2015 11:52:56

Designer Jim Lyngvild

Flora Danica, from the year 1648

ANCIENT WISDOM WITH A TWIST For hundreds of generations, women have gathered knowledge about active qualities from plants, herbs and flowers. Qualities they have used when wounds had to be healed, pains had to be eased, and appearances had to be cared for. This knowledge was passed on from mother to daughter and with time many of the old household remedies fell into oblivion. But they still fascinate us. Designer Jim Lyngvild has sought

back to the wisdom of earlier times and found inspiration in the several hundred years old book about Nordic nature, Flora Danica. Inspired by the Nordic Nature sourrounding his viking fortress at Funen in Denmark, and with help from the old works, he has brought knowledge from the past back to life with Raunsborg®. Raunsborg® has 3 beauty series with a manageable range for both women and men that make your skin care healthy, easy and simple.

The key is in the Nordic nature. And with Raunsborg® Nordic, you can get your share of nature’s wisdom.

Learn more at www.raunsborg.com

R AUNSB ORG ® NORDIC BEAUTY - QUITE SIMPLY

scandinavian traveler flight guide eurobonus shop

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Shop using points A whole range of great items can be bought with EuroBonus points at the EuroBonus Shop on SAS’s website including products from many wellknown brands. Items can also be purchased using a combination of points and money.

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Wireless headphones

These wireless headphones from Earin are innovative and trendy and offer great sound quality. The sports attach­ ment provides a ­secure fit for use when jogging or at the gym. When not in use, a metal can­ ister protects the headphones and charges them, too. About 50,830 points 1

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Weekend bag

Baron’s canvas weekend bag is both practical and stylish. It features a detach­ able and adjustable shoulder strap and the main compart­ ment has a practical two-way zipper for safe closure. There is a smaller inside compartment and one on the outside, too. And most air­ lines accept it as a carry-on. About 54,230 points 2

Hummingbird necklace

Pernille Corydon’s Hummingbird neck­ lace, which features a hummingbird pen­ dant, is available in both silver and gold-plated silver. The collection is ­inspired by the small and exquisite details of nature. The sweet little songbird hangs from a necklace with an adjustable length of 40 to 48cm. About 8,420 points 3

Block Lamp

Harri Koskinen’s Block Lamp, de­ signed in 1996, is still one of Design House Stockholm’s most popular ­products. This award- winning table lamp is made of undyed handcast glass with a sandblasted inside and will add style and luminance to any interior. About 33,410 points

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Skipper’s Pipes

5 Every Scandi­ navian’s dream can­ dy. Skipper’s licorice smoking pipes come in 340g travel packs. About 1,230 points

Rockbox

6 The Fresh ’n ­Rebel Rockbox cube is a small but powerful wireless speaker. The Fabriq Edition has a stylish design with woven threads and a leath­ er logo tag. The de­ vice can be used with smart phones, tablets, MP3 players, laptops or any other Bluetooth device. It can also be used as a speakerphone. About 6,310 points

All prices include local VAT. Prices are excluding shipping and may vary depending on the market.

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scandinavian traveler flight guide eurobonus

Get closer to your next trip Book hotels

Rent a car

Reach the next level

Explore the world

Make your travel easier, more comfortable and more rewarding. SAS EuroBonus is one of the Nordic region’s leading loyalty programs. And when you join, the points add up quickly. Earn points by flying on SAS or by taking advantage of our partners’ offers. Before you know it, you’ll be on your way again. Sign up at flysas.com/eurobonus

Earn points

You earn points on SAS, Star ­Alliance and other airlines’ flights, hotel stays, car rentals, special partner offers and when you pay for purchases with SAS American Express or SAS ­MasterCard.

Spend points

You can use your points for ­everything from flights to seat ­upgrades, car rentals, hotel ­bookings, shopping in the air, purchases in the SAS EuroBonus Shop and from SAS partners. ­

Join now

Anyone can join EuroBonus­– the more the merrier! Sign up for free at flysas.com/eurobonus

SAS CREDITS FOR COMPANIES SAS has programs for companies as well. Just like EuroBonus, the SAS corporate program is free to join and companies earn SAS Credits. It can also be combined with EuroBonus.

Benefits

When you fly on SAS or Widerøe, you earn SAS Credits on up to four percent of your ticket price, no matter whether it’s a one-way or a round trip.

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Additional SAS Credits can be earned by staying at ­participating Radisson Blu or Park Inn by Radisson Hotels throughout Scandinavia, Europe and the ­Middle East.

Earned SAS Credits can be ­redeemed by anyone in your c­ ompany for both new flights and hotel stays.

november 2016

Black pearls - unique treasures of the ocean

DENMARK SJÆLLAND: Frederikssund: Carlo Christiansen, Müllers Guldsmedie Herlev: Aage Holmer Holbæk: Christinas Guld og Sølv København K: Stenstrup Juveler København S: Anni Jensen Lyngby: Boutique d’Or Roskilde: Andersen & Enig, Müllers Guldsmedie

FYN: Odense: Surel A/S JYLLAND: Haderslev: Poul Normann Herning: Koral Guld & Sølv Horsens: Mørup Ure-Guld Kolding: Lykkes Guld & Sølv, Randers: Randers Storcenter: Mørup Ure-Guld Århus: Guldsmed Bent

SWEDEN

Alingsås: Smycka Guld i Alingsås Borås: Smycka Guld Gnosjö: Ur & Guld Göteborg: Wranges Juvelerare Halmstad: Guld & Silversmide Karlstad: Guld & Silverdesign Malmö: Prahls Guld & Juveler Uppsala: Smyckeboden Ystad: Reutners Guld

Other countries: Please contact [email protected] or call +45 39661090

www.perborupdesign.dk

Photo by Monica Kvaale

scandinavian traveler flight guide ask eivind

Ask Eivind

SAS’s Executive Vice ­President and Chief ­Commercial Officer ­answers your questions. onsider the following: you’re making a presentation to your customers. While you’re talking, some of the people in the front row are carrying on their own private conversations. Most of us would find this disrespectful and annoying. I witnessed this recently while sitting in the second row of one of our aircraft. The cabin crew was conducting the safety demonstration, but two people in the front row continued talking to each other. Now, most of our travelers have flown with us many times. And they can probably recite the safety demonstration in their sleep. Maybe you’re one of these true travelers yourself. Yet there are some people with less flying experience who need to pay attention to the safety demonstration. At SAS, safety is our number one priority. This is why the safety demonstration is extremely important to us. I’m sure that most people would agree that the cabin crew, who are there for your security, deserve some attention. So may I gently encourage you – the next time you’re on a plane and the safety demonstration starts, just take a short break from the conversation you’re having with your neighbor. I’m pretty sure our cabin crew would appreciate your attention, as will those travelers who want to listen. Enjoy your flight. And do know that we always do whatever we can to make your life easier and safe when you’re flying SAS – we are all travelers!

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As a retiree, I’ve got the time and good health to travel, but it’s not so easy for us older travelers to book trips on SAS’s website. Can I get help by phone? It’s really easy to book trips on the new SAS website. But if you’d still like to talk to someone to book a ticket, you’re welcome to call SAS Customer Service for help (for a small fee). Can I upgrade my kids, or anyone else, using my EuroBonus points? We’re working on a solution where you can upgrade others using your own points. We expect it to be available next year.

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Send your questions to [email protected]

november 2016

TRAVELERS THINK MIAMI The world is a big place, so think big. Be a traveler.

WE ARE TRAVELERS

scandinavian traveler flight guide fleet

FLEET

Photo by Hans Norman

Airbus A330-300/Airbus A340-300

Meet Ragnvald

– one of SAS’s hardest workers

agnvald Viking was manufactured in 2007 and has been in SAS’s service ever since. His home base is Copenhagen and he spends his time connecting Scandi­ navia with Europe. So far, he’s flown more than 18,000 times to over 80 destinations, most often to London, Gothenburg, Bergen, Frankfurt and Brussels.

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RAGNVALD gets his name from a Swedish king who ruled during the 1100s. Today, he is one of SAS’s four Airbus A319s that each carry 141 travelers and have a maximum take-off weight of 66 metric tons. The A319s serve the many shorter European routes in the SAS network and are one

of the SAS aircraft types that fly the most cycles per day. Ragnvald Viking will be the first A319 to undergo the recently-announced cabin upgrade program. He’ll sport a completely updated cabin interior, more comfortable seats and highspeed WiFi. Ragnvald and his three A319 brothers will also get an additional front seat row due to the upgrade of the front galley and wardrobes. So if you find yourself on a flight on Ragnvald Viking in 2018 and you’re sitting in the front row, you may well be among the first travelers to try out this new row. More aviation facts Read more at scandinaviantraveler.com

THE SAS ENVIRONMENTAL PROGRAM SAS’s overall goal is to reduce its emissions between 2010 and 2020 by 20%. Fleet renewal is an important part of this strategy. SAS has taken delivery of new long-haul aircraft in the last couple of months and will receive its first Airbus 320neo in 2016. The Airbus 320neo fuel consumption and associated ­emissions are ­15% less than the current A ­ irbus 320. The varied fleet of Boeing 737s and A320s allows SAS to adjust capacity to demand and ensures emissions are kept to a minimum.

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SAS also gives ­travelers and cargo ­customers the opportunity to ­offset their c­ arbon emissions. The emissions calculator can be found at sasgroup.net/miljo, ­alongside the 2014/2015 ­Sustainability R ­ eport. SAS has ­reduced its total carbon emissions by some 15% over the past ten years and is one of only a few ­airlines that is ISO 14001 ­certified – proof that SAS takes its ­environmental responsibilities ­seriously.

Operating routes to the US and Asia from Denmark, Norway and Sweden Number of aircraft: 8/8 • Number of seats: 266/247 Max. takeoff weight: 242.0/275.0 metric tons Max. payload: 44.5/44.1 metric tons • Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 60.3m • Cruising speed: 875kmph (545mph) Range: 10,400/12,800km • Engine: RR Trent 772B/CFM56-5C4 Fuel consumption: 0.032/0.039 liters per seat/km

Airbus A319/A320/A321

Rome! Dublin! Take me there!

Operating routes to European destinations from Denmark Number of aircraft: 4/13/8 • Number of seats: 141/168/198 Max. takeoff weight: 75.5/75.5/89.0 metric tons Max. payload: 16.7/18.0/23.0 metric tons Length: 33.8/37.6/44.5m • Wingspan: 34.1m Cruising speed: 840kmph (530mph) • Range: 5,100/3,900/3,800km Engine: IAE V2524-A5/V2527-A5/IAE V2530-A5 Fuel consumption: 0.033/0.029/0.029 liters per seat/km

Boeing 737-600/700/800 Operating routes to European destinations from Sweden and Norway Number of aircraft: 23/29/29 • Number of seats: 123/141/181 Max. takeoff weight: 59.9/69.4/79.0 ­metric tons Max. payload: 13.2/15.2/19.6 metric tons Length: 31.2/33.6/39.5m • Wingspan: 34.3/35.8/35.8m Cruising speed: 840kmph(530mph) Range: 2,400/4,400/4,200km • Engine: CFM56-7B Fuel consumption: 0.038/0.032/0.028 liters per seat/km

Airbus A320neo Operating routes to European destinations from Sweden Number of aircraft: 1 (29 on order) • Number of seats: 174 Max. takeoff weight: 77.0 metric tons Max. payload: 18.0 metric tons • Length: 37.6m Wingspan: 35.8m • Cruising speed: 840kmph (530mph) Range: 4,600km • Engine: CFM Leap 1A Fuel consumption: 0.025 liters per seat/km

From 2019: Airbus A350-900 Airbus A350-900 is on order with delivery in 2019 Number of aircraft: 8 • Number of seats: 308 Max. takeoff weight: 268.0 metric tons Max. payload: 51.0 metric tons Length: 66.9m • Wingspan: 64.8m Cruising speed: 910kmph (570mph) Range: 13,800km • Engine: RR Trent XWB Fuel consumption: 0.027 liters per seat/km

november 2016

120 Røros

Örnsköldsvik

Umeå

en

november 2016

Kramfors

lv

STORSJÖN

Åre/Östersund

älv

GULF OF BOTHNIA

Kittilä

Lakselv

Honningsvåg

Kokkola

en

Luleå

rne

Alta

Vaasa (Vasa)

Skellefteå

åä

Molde

Lycksele Um

In

Ørsta/Volda

Ålesund

Kristiansund

Vilhelmina

To

en

Namsos

Rørvik

Brønnøysund

Kiruna

TORNETRÄSK

H O R N AVA N

Narvik

Sørkjosen

älv

Hemavan

Mo i Rana

Bodø

Evenes Svolvær

Tromsø

leå

Sandnessjøen Mosjøen

Røst

Leknes

Stokmarknes

LO FOT E N

Andenes

NORWEGIAN SEA

Hasvik

Hammerfest

Lu

Trondheim

The Arlanda Express high-speed train service takes you to the Central Station in twenty minutes. A one-way adult ticket costs €28. The airport bus service costs €11 and takes 45 minutes. A taxi will cost €43–53.

Stockholm

The airport express train, Fly toget, departs to Oslo S (Oslo Central Station) every 10 or 20 minutes. Journey time is 19 minutes and a one-way adult ticket costs €20. The airport bus service leaves for central Oslo every 20 minutes. Journey time is around 40 minutes.

Oslo

The driverless Metro runs around the clock and takes you to downtown Copenhagen in 15 minutes. Or take the train to the central station, it takes 10–15 minutes. Both cost €3 for a one-way ticket.

Copenhagen

Seasonal destination

Codeshare and interline destination

SAS destination

SAS hub

SAS flies 80,000 passengers daily within Scandinavia

Oulu

FINLAND

OULUJÄRVI

Vardø

PURUVESI

PIELINEN

Kirkenes

Vadsø

Båtsfjord

Berlevåg

LO K A N T E KOJÄ RV I

INARIJÄRVI

Mehamn

BARENTS SEA

scandinavian traveler maps scandinavia

l da sä lv en

november 2016 LO L L A N D

GERMANY

Elbe

FA L S T E R

SJÆLLAND

Copenhagen

Hamburg

FYN

Århus

ma

THE NETHERLANDS

Sønderborg

DENMARK

Billund

Karup

JYLLAND

Ålborg

RÜGEN

Malmö

Ängelholm /Helsingborg

Jönköping

BORNHOLM

Rønne

Ronneby

Linköping

en

Kalmar

ÖLAND

ÅLAND

Wisla

POLAND

Palanga

RUSSIA

SAAREMAA

HIIUMAA

Nemunas

LITHUANIA

Da

ug

av

Riga

Vilnius

a

SUUR-SAIMA

L AT V I A

LAKE LADOGA

BELARUS

RUSSIA

St. Petersburg

L A K E P S KOV

PEIPSI JÄRV

GULF OF FINLAND

ESTO N I A

Tallinn

PÄ I J Ä N N E

Helsinki (Helsingfors)

Tampere (Tammerfors)

Turku (Åbo)

Pori

B A LT I C S E A

Mariehamn

GOTLAND

Gdansk

Visby

Stockholm HJÄLMAREN

SILJAN

Dalälv

Sundsvall – Timrå

SWEDEN

Örebro

V ÄT T E R N

VÄNERN

Karlstad

n

NORTH SEA

Göteborg

Sandefjord

Oslo

om lve

Kristiansand

N O R W AY

Gl rä

Stavanger

Haugesund

MJØSA

FEMUNDEN

Kla

Stord

Bergen

Sogndal

Sandane Florø Førde

scandinavian traveler maps scandinavia

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scandinavian traveler maps europe

WORLDWIDE REACH

ICELAND

SAS and its partners take you to 1,300 airports in 192 countries.

Reykjavik

Star Alliance Members

Adria Airways, Aegean Airlines, Air Canada, Air China, Air India, Air New Zealand, ANA, Asiana Airlines, Austrian Airlines, Avianca, Brussels Airlines, Copa Airlines, Croatia Airlines, EgyptAir, Ethiopian Airlines, EVA Air, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa, Shenzhen ­Airlines, Singapore Airlines, South African Airways, Swiss International Air Lines, TAP Portugal, Thai Airways, Turkish Airlines, United Airlines.

FA R O E I S L A N D S

Torshavn

SHETLAND ISLANDS

New route to Torshavn

Other airline partners

Airbaltic, Atlantic Airways, Icelandair, NextJet, Widerøe.

In March 2017, SAS will open a new daily direct route from ­Copenhagen to Torshavn in the Faroe Islands. Book your flights at flysas.com

Aberdeen

Edinburgh

London

The Heathrow Express travels from Heathrow Airport to ­Paddington Station in central London in 15 minutes and costs around £16. Heathrow is also on the London Underground network. It’s a 50–60 minute journey to c­ entral London on the Piccadilly line. The Airbus A2 stops in front of many centrally ­located hotels in London. Cabs take 30–60 minutes depending on traffic.

Salzburg

Buses depart from Salzburg Airport for ­ alzburg main railway station every 10–20 S minutes. Single tickets cost €2.50 and the journey takes 20 minutes. Taxis can be found in front of the terminal building.

Newcastle UNITED KINGDOM R E P. O F I R E L A N D

Dublin

AT L A N T I C O C E A N

Shannon

Manchester Birmingham Tha

12

C E LT I C S E A

The average Finn drinks 12kg of c­ offee e­ very year. That’s twice as much as the ­Italians. The Finns love coffee so much that there is a coffee festival in Helsinki every year in April.

B AY O F B I S C AY

Bilbao

Biarritz Eb

Snowless

Reach 187 countries around the World SAS hub SAS destination Codeshare and interline destination

AZORES

Even on the coldest winter days, most streets in central Reykjavik are completely free from snow due to an underground heating system that was installed over ten years ago.

Oporto PORTUGAL

Lisbon

T

Faro

Madrid

o ej

S PA I N

Malaga ALBORAN SEA

Seasonal destination MOROCCO

122

re

Douro

november 2016

mes

scandinavian traveler maps europe

WHITE SEA NORWEGIAN SEA

FINLAND

Trondheim

SWEDEN N O R W AY LAKE LADOGA

Helsinki

Bergen

Oslo

St. Petersburg

Stockholm Stavanger

Tallinn ESTO N I A

B A LT I C S E A

Kristiansand

NEW SAS ROUTES

Göteborg

DENMARK

Palanga

Copenhagen Gdansk Hamburg El Groningen be Bremen Amsterdam Hanover

BELARUS

Istula

Poznan

Berlin

Warsaw

e

Frankfurt

Sein

Lo

Prague Nuremberg

LUXEMBOURG

Paris

in

BELGIUM

Wroclaw

GERMANY

Dusseldorf Rh

Brussels

Basel Zurich Geneva

ne Rho

Toulouse Montpellier

Innsbruck

LIECHTENSTEIN

Graz

Po

Nice

MONACO

Trieste

Pisa

SAN MARINO

CORSICA

Rome

Barcelona

MONTENEGRO

Olbia

BALEARIC SEA M A L LO R C A

SARDINIA

Palma de Mallorca

A D R I AT I C SEA

VAT I C A N S TAT E

Naples

TYRRHENIAN SEA

TUNISIA

Istanbul

AEGEAN SEA

IONIAN SEA

TURKEY

Izmir Kalamata

Malta

MEDITERRANEAN SEA

Athens Mykonos Santorini Chania CRETE

Rhodes Heraklion

Bodrum Dalaman

Eu

CYPRUS

Larnaca

SYRIA

ph

ra

te

Tigris

ALGERIA

Skopje Thessaloniki

S I C I LY

M A LT A

B L AC K S E A

FYROM

GREECE

Palermo Catania

Copenhagen – Torshavn, Faroe Islands Copenhagen – Riga Copenhagen – Olbia (seasonal) Copenhagen – Malta (seasonal) Oslo – Miami Oslo – Aalborg Oslo – Priština (seasonal) Stockholm – Krakow UKRAINE Stockholm – Munich Stockholm – Shannon (seasonal) Don Stockholm – Lisbon (seasonal) Stockholm – Pristina (seasonal) Bergen – Gdansk Aarhus – Malaga (seasonal) CRIMEA Kristiansand – Malaga (seasonal) Stavanger – Nice (seasonal)

Sofia

Priština

ALBANIA

Cagliari

Alicante

KOSOVO

Podgorica

Tirana

I T A LY

Bucharest

e

SERBIA

Sarajevo

Split

Ancona

Dubrovnik

ANDORRA

Danub

BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

Florence

Marseille

ROMANIA

Zagreb

C R O AT I A

Belgrade

Pula

Bologna

M O L D OVA

HUNGARY

SLOVENIA

Ljubljana

Turin

Budapest

AUSTRIA

Venice

Milan

Vienna

Salzburg

SWITZERLAND

Lyon

S LOVA K I A

Linz

Munich

ire

Krakow

C Z E C H R E P.

Stuttgart

e

FRANCE

Vilnius

POLAND

THE NETHERLANDS

London

SAS continues to open new direct routes, both year-round routes and seasonal destinations during the summer.

LITHUANIA RUSSIA

ga

NORTH SEA

RUSSIA

L AT V I A

Vol

Riga

s

LEBANON IRAQ ISRAEL

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scandinavian traveler maps the world

Longyearbyen SVALBARD ( N O R W AY )

B A F F I N B AY B J Ø R N ØYA ( N O R W AY )

New route to Boston

VICTORIA ISLAND

GREENLAND (DENMARK)

BAFFIN ISLAND

In March, SAS opened a new direct route from ­Copen­hagen to Boston, with daily departures. Book your flight at flysas.com!

Reykjavik

ICELAND FA R O E I S L A N D S (DENMARK)

SWEDEN N O R W AY

Torshavn SHETLAND ISLANDS (UNITED KINGDOM)

HUDSON B AY

FINLAND

Oslo Stockholm DENMARK

Copenhagen

CANADA

UNITED KINGDOM

IRELAND

Calgary

GERMANY

Vancouver Montreal

Seattle Portland

Ottawa Halifax Minneapolis Buffalo UNITED Toronto Rochester S T A T E S Des Moines Chicago Detroit Sacamento Cleveland Boston Omaha Pittsburg New York Salt Lake City Indianapolis Philadelphia Denver Kansas City San Francisco Columbus Washington D.C. St. Louis Cincinnati Las Vegas Greensboro Richmond Los Angeles Norfolk Memphis Nashville Phoenix BERMUDA Santa Ana Raleigh San Diego (UNITED KINGDOM) Dallas Atlanta Charlotte Jacksonville Austin Orlando Houston AT L A N T I C New Orleans Tampa West Palm Beach Miami MEXICO Fort Lauderdale GULF OF MEXICO

Mexico City

CLIPPERTON (FRANCE)

FRANCE

I T A LY PORTUGAL

AZORES (PORTUGAL)

MADEIRA (PORTUGAL)

OCEAN

TUNISIA

MOROCCO

Tenerife

Gran Canaria

CANARY ISLANDS ( S PA I N )

BAHAMAS PUERTO RICO (USA) DOMINICAN R E P. HAITI ANTIGUA & BARBUDA BELIZE J A M A I C A San Juan DOMINICA S T. K I T T S & N E V I S HONDURAS S T. L U C I A G U AT E M A L A CARIBBEAN SEA S T. V I N C E N T & T H E G R A N A D I N E S E L S A LVA D O R NICARAGUA GRENADA BARBADOS

S PA I N

MEDITERRANEAN SEA

ALGERIA

L I B YA

CUBA

M A U R I TA N I A CAPE VERDE

GAMBIA G U I N E A- B I SS AU

T R I N I DA D & TO BAG O

C O S TA R I C A

VENEZUELA

PA N A M A

COLOMBIA

G A L A PAG O S (EQUADOR)

GUINEA

NIGER

BURKINA FA S O

CHAD NIGERIA

GHANA

SIERRA LEONE

G U YA N A SURINAM F R E N C H G U YA N A

MALI

SENEGAL

CENTRAL A F R I C A N R E P.

LIBERIA

CAMEROON

TO G O

COT E D ' I VO R E

BENIN

SAO TO M E & P R I N C I P E

EQUADOR

EQU. GUINEA

New route to Miami In September, SAS opened a new direct route to Miami from Oslo and Copenhagen. Book your flight at EASTER ISLAND flysas.com (CHILE)

CONGO GABON

CONGO ( D E M . R E P. )

GULF OF GUINEA

PERU ASCENSION (UNITED KINGDOM)

BRAZIL

Lima

ANGOLA BOLIVIA

CHILE

ST. H E L E N A (UNITED KINGDOM)

NAMIBIA

TRINDADE (BRAZIL)

PA R A G U AY

B OTSWA N A

ARGENTINA SOUTH AFRICA

U R U G U AY

Cape Town T R I S TA N D A C U N H A (UNITED KINGDOM)

1,175 destinations around the world SAS hub SAS destination Codeshare and interline destination Seasonal destination

FA L K L A N D I S L A N D S (UNITED KINGDOM)

SOUTH GEORGIA (UNITED KINGDOM)

SOUTH ORKNEY (UNITED KINGDOM)

124

B O U V E T ØYA ( N O R W AY )

SOUTH SANDWICH ISLANDS (UNITED KINGDOM)

november 2016

scandinavian traveler maps the world

KARA SEA

NOVAJA ZEMLJA BARENTS SEA

RUSSIA

BERING SEA SEA OF OKHOTSK

K A Z A K H S TA N

U Z B E K I S TA N TURKEY

IRAQ

Cairo

BAHRAIN Q ATA R

Jeddah

INDIA

YEMEN

B AY O F BENGAL

Chennai

ARABIAN SEA

Addis Ababa

SOMALIA

Osaka RYUKTU IS. ( J A PA N )

BONIN IS. ( J A PA N )

TA I WA N

GUAM (USA)

PAC I F I C O C E A N

PHILIPPINES

M A L AY S I A

MARCUS ( J A PA N )

NORTHERN MARIANA ISLANDS (USA)

VIETNAM CAMBODIA

BRUNEI

PA L A U

MICRONESIA

Singapore

Jakarta

SEYCHELLES

TA N Z A N I A

INDIAN OCEAN

MALAWI MADAGASCAR

Johannesburg

Sendai Tokyo

SINGAPORE

ZAMBIA

MOZAMBIQUE

Nagoya

Xiamen Shenzhen

Krabi

Kuala Lumpur

MALDIVES

J A PA N

SOUTH CHINA SEA

THAILAND

SRI LANKA

Entebbe Nairobi RWANDA BURUNDI Mombasa Zanzibar

ZIMBABWE

LAOS

Phuket

ETHIOPIA

Lusaka Harare

Guangzhou Hong Kong

Bangkok

Fukuoka Shanghai

Chongqing

BANGLADESH BURMA / M YA N M A R

SOUTH KOREA

Nanjing

B H U TA N

Chiang Mai

Bengaluru

DJIBOUTI

U G A N D A K E N YA

N E PA L

Mumbai

OMAN ERITREA

Delhi

Abu Dhabi

UNITED ARAB E M I R AT E S

SUDAN

SOUTH SUDAN

PA K I S TA N

Dubai

Dalian

Qingdao

CHINA Chengdu

KUWAIT

NORTH KOREA

Beijing

TA J I K I S TA N

A F G H A N I S TA N

IRAN

SAUDI ARABIA

EGYPT

Sapporo

K Y R G Y Z S TA N

T U R K M E N I S TA N

SYRIA

MONGOLIA

NAURU

PA P U A NEW GUINEA

INDONESIA

SOLOMON ISLANDS

Denpasar

T U VA LU

COCOS ISLAND (AUSTRALIA)

CORAL SEA

MAURITIUS

VA N U AT U

FIJI

NEW CALEDONIA (FRANCE)

REUNION (FRANCE)

AUSTRALIA

SWAZILAND

Brisbane

Durban

L ESOT H O

Perth

Port Elizabeth

Adelaide NEW AMSTERDAM (FRANCE)

Sydney Melbourne

Auckland

TA S M A N S E A NEW ZEALAND CROZET IS. (FRANCE) PRINCE EDWARD ISLANDS (SOUTH AFRICA)

KERGUELEN (FRANCE)

C H AT H A M I S . (NEW ZELAND)

HEARD ISLAND (AUSTRALIA)

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scandinavian traveler maps america

G R E AT S L AV E L A K E

H U D S O N B AY

LAKE WINNIPEG

New route to Los Angeles In March, SAS opened a new daily direct route from Stockholm Arlanda to Los Angeles. Book your flights at flysas.com.

CANADA

Calgary Vancouver LAKE SUPERIOR

Seattle Portland

U N I T E D S TAT E S

Minneapolis

LAKE MICHIGAN

Des Moines Denver

Sacramento San Francisco

Kansas City

Indianapolis Cincinnati pi St. Louis ip M

Las Vegas Los Angeles

Santa Ana

is

si

Phoenix

Philadelphia Washington D.C.

Richmond

Greensboro Charlotte

Memphis

Halifax

Rochester Boston Buffalo Cleveland New York Pittsburgh

LAKE ERIE

Columbus

ss

Nashville

io

Raleigh

G ra nd

Austin

e

New Orleans

Jacksonville

Houston

Orlando

Tampa Fort Lauderdale

MEXICO

West Palm Beach Miami

GULF OF MEXICO

Virtual White House

You don’t have to go to Washington to experience the inside of the White House. BERMUDA (UNITED KINGDOM) Just type in “The White House” in Google maps and you can get your own ­personal tour while ­sitting on your couch.

Norfolk

Atlanta

Dallas

R

San Diego

Detroit

Chicago

LAKE O N TA R I O

Toronto

Omaha

Salt Lake City

Montreal

Ottawa

LAKE HURON

BAHAMAS

AT L A N T I C O C E A N

CUBA

Mexico City

HONDURAS

G U AT E M A L A E L S A LVA D O R

HAITI

JAMAICA

BELIZE

DOMINICAN PUERTO RICO R E P.

San Juan

ST KITTS & NEVIS

CARIBBEAN SEA ARUBA

NICARAGUA

(USA)

ST VINCENT & THE GRENADINES CURACAO

Washington DC

C O S TA R I C A

To get to central Washington DC from Dulles Airport take the Washington Flyer Bus to the s­ ubway station West Falls Church Metro. The bus departs every half hour and costs around USD9. ­Cabs are available from the lower level of the Main Terminal.

ANTIGUA & BARBUDA

DOMINICA ST LUCIA BARBADOS GRENADA TRINIDAD & TO BAG O

PA N A M A VENEZUELA

G U YA N A COLOMBIA

SURINAM

FRENCH G U YA N A

G A L A PAG O S (EQUADOR)

EQUADOR

A

PERU

m

az

on

as

BRAZIL

PAC I F I C O C E A N SAS hub SAS destination Codeshare and interline destination

Lima

BOLIVIA

Seasonal destination

126

november 2016

YOUR HAIR WILL THANK YOU Cutting-edge science that delivers noticeable, honest results Seasonal hair loss isn’t a myth, and for many people it’s a real problem. Around this time of year, a greater proportion of hair follicles will enter the telogen, or resting, phase of its life cycle, leading to increased levels of hair loss. To address the problem of thinning hair or a receding hairline, Dr Thomas Whitfield and the Oxford Biolabs team of scientists developed the naturally-based, scientifically-tested TRX2 Molecular Food Supplement for Hair. S: Dr Whitfield, what gave you the inspiration to begin developing a solution for hair loss? TW: The idea of creating TRX2 hit me when I was in Oxford, researching the process of hair loss. I better understood the causes and effects and, ultimately, the urgency of the issue for many – I’ve always wanted to find a solution for people who have a genuine need. S: What is the general mechanism of your flagship product? TW: Unlike some products, TRX2 has a credible scientific background and an essential formula that helps to stimulate potassium

ion channels in hair follicles. We’ve only used naturally-based ingredients in the formulation ensuring there are no harmful side-effects to our regimen. Moreover, three of the key ingredients in TRX2 – selenium, zinc, and biotin – are officially recognised by the European Commission as contributing to the maintenance of normal, healthy hair. S: Is TRX2 perceived well and favoured by consumers? TW: Yes, we’re proud of our products, because they are easy-to-use and suitable for men and women of all ages. They are sourced and manufactured in the European Union, from where we ship worldwide, and have been sold in more than 100 countries. S: Is TRX2 efficient on its own? TW: Yes, it is efficient on its own. And additionally, we have recently introduced an advanced TRX2 topical range of foam and lotion to complement our TRX2 capsules. We are working on a shampoo, conditioner and thickening cream as a further support line.

INTRODUCTORY OFFER Order via www.trx2.com/SA and use the coupon code SA to receive 5% discount.

+44 800 808 5251

scandinavian traveler maps asia

RUSSIA SEA OF OKHOTSK

K A Z A K H S TA N MONGOLIA

Sapporo K Y R G Y Z S TA N NORTH KOREA

Beijing

TA J I K I S TA N

A F G H A N I S TA N

Ye

CHINA

Chengdu

PA K I S TA N N E PA L Gang

ri

Ya

ng

t

ze

ri

SEA OF J A PA N

Fukuoka ve

r

BURMA / M YA N M A R

B AY O F BENGAL

Guangzhou Hong Kong

Tokyo

Nagoya

Shanghai EAST CHINA SEA BONIN ISLANDS ( J A PA N )

Xiamen Shenzhen T A I W A N

MARCUS ( J A PA N )

HONG KONG

LAOS

Chiang Mai

ARABIAN SEA

Osaka

RYUKYU ISLANDS ( J A PA N )

BANGLADESH

Chennai

J A PA N

Qingdao

es

Mumbai

Sendai

SOUTH KOREA

r ve

Nanjing

B H U TA N

INDIA

Bengaluru

ow

Chongqing

Mekong

Delhi

ll

Dalian

Bangkok

PAC I F I C O C E A N

SOUTH CHINA SEA

THAILAND

VIETNAM CAMBODIA

GUAM (USA)

PHILIPPINES

ANDAMAN SEA SRI LANKA

Phuket

Krabi

PA L A U BRUNEI

Kuala Lumpur

MICRONESIA

M A L AY S I A

Singapore SINGAPORE

Hong Kong

Hong Kong International Airport The Airport Express takes you to central Hong Kong in 24 minutes and costs around HKD100. You can also take the A11 and A12 buses.

Jakarta COCOS ISLANDS (AUSTRALIA)

J AVA S E A

SAS hub

PA P U A N E W G U I N E A

Denpasar

INDIAN

CORAL SEA

OCEAN

Fake city

SAS destination

INDONESIA

Tokyo is not technically a city. It’s actually one of 47 prefectures of Japan, which is similar to a state of ­province. Tokyo is divided into 8 villages, 5 towns, 26 cities and 23 wards. But ­everyone in and outside of Japan refers to Tokyo as a city.

AUSTRALIA

Brisbane

Da

Perth

rl

g

Sydney

Adelaide G R E AT A U S T R A L I A N BIGHT

in

Melbourne

TA S M A N I A (AUSTRALIA)

Codeshare and interline destination Seasonal destination

128

november 2016

Celebrating continuity celebrating change The first VOLA taps were designed in 1968 by Arne Jacobsen for the National Bank of Denmark. During the recent years VOLA has introduced several new products that have received international design awards. VOLA is manufactured in Denmark according to the strictest environmental requirements.

shelby teknikk as Nedre Gate 7 0551 Oslo

Tel: +47 51 46 18 00 [email protected] www.shelby.no

scandinavian traveler maps the world

Tokyo

PAC I F I C O C E A N

Shanghai

San Francisco Los Angeles Beijing

Hong Kong

ARCTIC OCEAN

Chicago

Miami

Washington D.C.

Longyearbyen

New York Boston

Reykjavik

Oslo

Stockholm

Copenhagen AT L A N T I C O C E A N

NORTHERN ­EUROPE’S BEST CONNECTIONS TO THE WORLD After nearly 70 years in the business, we know a thing or two about taking Scandinavia to the world ­– and bringing the world to ­Scandinavia. SAS has the best connections between Northern Europe and the US and Asia. We have ten direct long-haul destinations from Scandinavia, connections to all the main hubs, and an extensive network of partners. For people traveling beyond these gateways, we offer more than 100 codeshare destinations. In the US, we have a codeshare

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agreement with United Airlines to some 60 destinations across the nation. A similar agreement with Air China takes you from anywhere in Scandinavia to anywhere in China. Thai Airways, co-founded by SAS in the late 1950s, ­is our codeshare partner to major Asia-Pacific destinations such as Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur, Singapore, Australia and New Zealand. Star Alliance serves 1,300 airports worldwide. In other words, SAS will get you there.

november 2016

SIMPLICITY, EXCLUSIVITY AND ELEGANCE UNIQUE PIECES OF JEWELLERY GULDSMED MET TE ROSGAARD

AKSEL MØLLERS HAVE 1

2000 FREDERIKSBERG

TELEFON +45 38 10 18 48 WWW.ROSGAARDCOLLEC TION.DK

MIX A MASTERPIECE BOMBAY SAPPHIRE AND TONIC – THE ULTIMATE GIN AND TONIC.

find your ultimate gin & tonic with a creative twist in the following bars throughout the nordics sweden: gothenburg drink 20, the temple, noba, Viva, kungstorget, spisa kalmar krögers karlstad bar teatral, blå malmö mello yello, chill out lounge, paddys, mosaik, grappa stockholm rigoletto, nosh & chow, supper, broken, monkey bar visby lingården norway: bergen biblioteket, taket, jacob all, zachariasbryggen haugesund winehouse, zensa kristiansand frk larsen, tollboden, bakgården bar, rederiet kristiansund bar og sånn (grand hotel), bryggekanten brasserie og bar, havnekontoret molde glass oslo bar tjuvolmen, pinerolo cantina, jaeger, bjørungs, cafe sør, frokostkjelleren, heidi´s bierbar, karusell bar, la boheme, onda tromsø gründer, clarion hotel the edge, frost, no.24, flyt trondheim barmuda, clarion congress skybar, clarion olavs kvartalet, cowsea, down town bar, down town club, eld ålesund terminalen finland: helsinki maxine, hotel kämp, southpark oulu cocktail company tampere minibaari turku shooters bar, tårget Vaasa fontana denmark: copenhagen bar 7, bar fly, barcelona, bodega, cafe sekseren, cafe zakabona, celcius, frem, guldfasanen, kb3, kul, le sommelier, lulu, mash penthouse, rezidor, urban house odense city club, cafe kræs, chuckos cafe, piano bar, cafe chino

D R I N K

R E S P O N S I B L Y

BOMBAY AND BOMBAY SAPPHIRE ARE REGISTERED TRADEMARKS.