Old Town Central - Discover Hong Kong

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With a mixture of European and Chinese architectural features, the building is a Declared Monument. ... blend of Chicago
Contents Beneath the stunning skyline of Central, history, arts, food, and culture flourish in one of the city’s oldest and most archetypal neighbourhoods. East and West, past and present, traditions and innovation, excitement and tranquillity — this is where Hong Kong’s contrasting attributes coexist, blend and collide. And as a microcosm of the city, it’s a perfect starting point for visitors. This guide explores the heart of the neighbourhood — the history-steeped area outlined

14-23

36-45

Art: Crazy for Art

Shopping: Treasure Hunt

by Wyndham Street, Caine Road, Possession Street and Queen's Road Central, with Hollywood Road, one of the first roads built in the colonial era, coursing through the middle.

2-13

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46-47

Heritage: Time Traveller

Dining: Tasting Hong Kong

Highlights Trip: Something for Everyone

Disclaimer : Old Town Central — Self-guided Walks in the Heart of Hong Kong is planned and produced by Weekend Weekly and published by the Hong Kong Tourism Board. The Hong Kong Tourism Board shall not be responsible for any information described in the book, including those of shops, restaurants, goods, and services, and they do not represent and make guarantees concerning any such information regarding shops, restaurants, goods and services and so on, including its commercial applicability, accuracy, adequacy and reliability, etc. Information as described in the book is as of March 2017. Customers can refer to relevant parties if they have any enquiry. The guide is carefully compiled in order to provide the most accurate information and the Hong Kong Tourism Board and Weekend Weekly will not be liable for any outdated information, errors or omissions.

You can follow the five routes in this guide to discover heritage, food, arts and hidden treasures in the warren of streets and alleys. Along the way, you will bear witness to the dramatic transformations that have characterised Central’s short but colourful history and explore a city that is always changing but never detached from its origins.

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The Central and Sheung Wan area was where the story of modern Hong Kong began. From Possession Point, where the British flag was first officially raised, to the Tai Ping Shan area, which was where many Chinese first settled in the 1840s, this journey leads you through some of the city’s oldest streets. The walk takes in Chinese temples, the city’s first bacteriology laboratory, the haunts of a famous revolutionary, Hong Kong’s earliest judicial and police buildings as well as many little shops that still offer glimpses of what life was like when a world city was still in the making.

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1 Possession Street/P.4 2 Tai Ping Shan Street/P.6 3 Hong Kong Museum of Medical Sciences/P.7 4 Chinese YMCA of Hong Kong, Bridges Street Centre/P.8 5 Man Mo Temple/P.9 6 Pak Tsz Lane Park/P.10 7 Tai Kwun/P.11 8 Pottinger Street/P.12-13 9 Linva Tailor/P.13

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Since its cession to Britain, Hong Kong has evolved into a place characterised by dramatic cultural contrasts, which first emerged in the early days of Central. The neighbourhood became the centre of British colonial rule; at the same time, as Victoria Harbour became an important trade port between the West and the East, people flocked from Mainland China in hopes of better livelihoods, and many of them settled in the area. They built temples around Tai Ping Shan Street to hold religious rituals, offer folk remedies to the ill and house memorial tablets for the dead. Today, the temples are still busy with people petitioning and worshipping deities. Meanwhile, Western medical science formed a foothold here. After the bubonic plague ravaged the city in the late 19th century, Hong Kong’s first bacteriology laboratory was set up, and has now become the Hong Kong Museum of Medicine Sciences.

Ordinary as it may seem, Possession Street has a significant place in the history of Hong Kong. On 25 January 1841, the British navy landed at Possession Point and began 150 years of colonial rule. This humble settlement rapidly morphed into a metropolis with a population of over 7 million.

Possession Street Possession Street marks the British possession of Hong Kong. It was known by early local settlers as ‘Po Se Son Kai’ in Cantonese, a transliteral adaptation of the English name that reflects its colonial roots. A flagraising ceremony was held on a hill to the west on the day after the initial landing. The landing venue was named Possession Point (now Hollywood Road Park). Originally perched on the waterfront, Possession Street was given a new lease of life through reclamation. The area is now dotted with hip restaurants and boutiques, alongside historic stores where you can still sample a taste of an older Hong Kong.

Chu Wing Kee, a store on Possession Street, has a history of nearly 60 years.

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Tai Ping Shan Street Walk up from Possession Street and you will find yourself on 300-metre-long Tai Ping Shan Street. A number of distinctive ancient temples line the two sides of this small alley: Tai Sui Temple near the staircase, Water Palace, Kwun Yum Temple, and the unassuming Fook Tak Palace. The most eye-catching of them all is probably the smoky, red temple under an iron sheet, called ‘Kwong Fook I Tsz’. Built in 1856, it is a classic example of a temple that fulfilled diverse roles. It was an ancestral temple for migrant families, and a shelter for the ill. The bodies of immigrant workers who passed away were also kept here until they could be transported back to their hometowns. For those who could not afford to have their remains sent home, memorial tablets would be set up for them here. To date, the temples dotting Tai Ping Shan Street are still frequented by worshippers. Each temple was built for a different deity and served a different function. Some visit Tai Sui Temple to pray for good fortune, while others pray for wealth at Kwan Yin Temple.

Tai Sui Temple worships Dao Mo, the Superior Goddess of Taoism, and the ‘Sixty Tai Sui’, a group of deities in charge of respective years.

Hong Kong Museum of Medical Sciences This Edwardian brick building is a symbol of the development of medical sciences in Hong Kong. After the bubonic plague hit the city in the late 19th century, the colonial government stepped up efforts in medical development, which eventually led to the establishment of the first bacteriology institute. The laboratory came into service in 1906 as the city’s first clinical laboratory for public health, and the cornerstone of the development of medical sciences in Hong Kong. It is also the world’s first museum comparing Chinese and Western pathologies.

Info

Fook Tak Palace on Water Lane.

Address: 2 Caine Lane, Mid-Levels, Sheung Wan Tel: +852 2549 5123 Website: www.hkmms.org.hk

Besides Western medicine, Chinese herbology is also a key part of the archive.

With a mixture of European and Chinese architectural features, the building is a Declared Monument.

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Man Mo Temple Descend from Ladder Street, and the green roof of Man Mo Temple will come into sight between the surrounding high rises. Estimated to have been built between 1847 and 1862, Man Mo Temple is a complex comprising Man Mo Temple, Lit Shing Kung and Kung Sor. Man Mo Temple pays tribute to the God of Literature and the God of War, whilst Lit Shing Kung was created for all heavenly gods. Kung Sor was an assembly hall for resolving community disputes. This well-preserved historic building houses a bronze bell dating back to 1847 and a sedan chair from 1862, and comprises granite pillars, granite door frames, engraved wood plaques and ancient mural paintings. Info

As its name suggests, Ladder Street is a steep flight of steps. It was constructed of granite rocks between 1841 and 1850. Back then, Sheung Wan was home to a lot of Chinese settlements, whilst many foreigners lived in the upscale neighbourhood of the Mid-Levels. Ladder Street extends upward from Queen’s Road Central to Hollywood Road and from Square Street to Caine Road in the Mid-Levels, linking the Chinese and foreign communities in the area. The street also connects multiple historic spots, including Man Mo Temple and the Chinese YMCA of Hong Kong.

Chinese YMCA of Hong Kong, Bridges Street Centre Local architecture was greatly enriched when Western and Chinese influences came together during the colonial era. The Bridges Street Centre of the Chinese YMCA of Hong Kong is a case in point. Completed in 1918, the centre is a six-storey blend of Chicago School architecture and Chinese roofing techniques. Founded in 1901, Chinese YMCA of Hong Kong was one of the city’s first youth centres for teenagers. The centre on Bridges Street is the first one in Hong Kong that has an indoor playground, swimming pool, a hall, a fitness centre, restaurants and a hostel. In the early 20th century, it was a major social centre for the Chinese community. Info

Address: 51 Bridges Street, Sheung Wan Tel: +852 2540 0526 Website: bsc.ymca.org.hk

Address: 124-126 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan Tel: +852 2540 0350

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Along Hollywood Road, you can see Man Mo Temple and the Central Police Station Compound. Merely 500 metres apart, these two buildings represent the very different approaches to running a society that existed in this compact community in its earlier days. In the past, the Chinese population would settle their disputes in temples such as Man Mo Temple. Meanwhile, down the road, the police compound represents the introduction of the British judiciary to the colony. Over time, the Chinese in Hong Kong increasingly accepted the authority of the British system. Today, these structures stand as a testament to the city’s remarkable East-meets-West heritage.

The great Chinese revolutionary, Dr Sun Yat-sen, spent many years in Central and Sheung Wan, where he formed many of the ideas that eventually led him to bring an end to centuries of imperial rule in China. In fact, this neighbourhood was a perfect breeding ground for revolutionary movements at the time. In the late 19th century and the early 20th century, the free mobility of citizens, goods and funds in Hong Kong proved favourable to the activities of groups such as the Revive China Society and Tongmenghui, which were founded by Sun.

Pak Tsz Lane Park Sheltered from Hollywood Road, Gage Street and Aberdeen Street, Pak Tsz Lane Park was the site of an important historic event. On 13 March 1892, revolutionary leaders Yeung Ku-wan and Tse Tsantai founded the Furen Society, a meeting place for revolutionaries, at 1 Pak Tsz Lane, which is right next to the park. The society eventually merged with Sun’s Revive China Society. In memory of the event, Pak Tsz Lane Park features exhibition panels and interactive facilities tracing the development of the group’s revolutionary activities. The pathway used by society members back then is preserved as the entrance of the park. The quiet space, which comprises white walls, black frames and fences as well as cut-out details, slowly reveals the development of Furen Society's history layer after layer.

Info

Address: Pak Tsz Lane, Central

Tai Kwun The panels are engraved with Furen Society’s mission statement and the oblique roofing is inspired by old houses nearby.

Dr Sun Yat-sen Historical Trail The area around Central and Sheung Wan was not only a cradle for the revolution; it was also where Sun studied, lived and was baptised. Pak Tsz Lane Park is one of the spots along the Dr Sun Yat-sen Historical Trail, which consists of 15 stops that give glimpses of his life in Hong Kong.

Tai Kwun, meaning ‘big station’ in Cantonese, was a nickname for the Central Police Station (CPS) Compound. The large complex comprises 16 Declared Monuments including what used to be the Central Police Station, Central Magistracy and Victoria Prison. In the mid-19th century, it housed the offices of the police, the magistracy and the prison, marking its place in history as the heart of the legal system. Historical significance aside, Tai Kwun is a magnificent work of architecture. The former Police Headquarters building is a resplendent example of Neoclassicism. The barracks, built between 1862 and

1864, is the oldest within the complex and is known for its distinctive Roman-style arch. It is worth noting that these buildings have individual pathways for transporting convicts between the police station, magistracy, and prison. The revitalisation of Tai Kwun is now under way. With the addition of two new buildings, the complex will function as an integrated space for history, culture and arts. Info

Address: 10 Hollywood Road, Central Website: www.taikwun.hk

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Pottinger Street The stone slabs spanning the entirety of Pottinger Street were laid unevenly for a reason: some sections of this street between Hollywood Road and Connaught Road Central were particularly steep, and the pavement of unevenly stone slabs made it easier for commuters and merchant bearers to walk on, and for rainwater to flow down. Because of the unique design, locals still refer to it today as ‘Stone Slab Street’. There were also stalls on either side of the street when it street was built in the 19th century. Originally, they sold household goods, or offered services such as shoe and pot repairing, as well as clothing alteration. Today, as consumer habits have changed, most of them sell festive costumes or handicrafts.

Linva Tailor

From Tai Kwun, take a look at the area surrounding Pottinger Street and Cochrane Street to learn about the daily life of city-dwellers in bygone eras. Pottinger Street (also known as ‘Stone Slab Street’) is lined with metal stalls selling handicrafts and household goods. Linva Tailor on the steep Cochrane Street is still run by veteran tailors. On these streets, you will be able to feel the atmosphere of the old days of Central.

The classic film In the Mood for Love gave Linva Tailor on Cochrane Street a shot to fame: in business since 1965, the cheongsam tailor is known for custom-making some of the stunning costumes for the period drama blockbuster. Cheongsam were commonly worn in Hong Kong up to the 1960s and 1970s. Step into Linva Tailor and be dazzled by the versatility of the exquisite cheongsam on display.

Info

Address: 38 Cochrane Street, Central Tel: +852 2544 2456

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1 Fringe Club/P.16 2 PMQ/P.17 3 Yan Gallery/P.19 4 Parkview Art Hong Kong/P.19 5 La Galerie Paris 1839/P.19 6 Karin Weber Gallery/P.19 7 Street Art/P.20-21 a. Intersection of 46 Graham Street and 48 Hollywood Road b. Tai On Terrace c. 2 Elgin Street d. 24 Tai Ping Shan Street e,f. Staircase between Hollywood Road and Square Street g. 29 Staunton Street h. 186-190 Hollywood Road 8 Peel Fresco Music Lounge/P.22 9 Boom Art Gallery Bar/P.23 10 The Popsy Room/P.23

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Take a stroll down the old streets of Central and you will see a dazzling fusion of quirky artistic landmarks. Rows of galleries invite you into different realms where the works of Western and Asian maestros are featured alongside those of upand-comers, whilst culture hubs combine traditional craftsmanship with modern aesthetics. From art and music to food, in Central, you will always find something to inspire you.

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Central’s historic buildings often undergo transformations and many are reincarnated as centres for arts and the creative industries. This includes one of the city’s most popular arts venues, Fringe Club, and a recent heritage building revitalisation project, PMQ.

PMQ Formerly the Police Married Quarters, PMQ now houses works by promising young artists and designers in Hong Kong. Here, not only will you find a fascinating line-up of creative studios and designer products, but there are also exhibitions and workshops all year round, giving you insights into the local creative scene.

Fringe Club Situated amid the hustle and bustle of Central, Fringe Club distinguishes itself from the surrounding highrises with a neoclassical exterior made of milky white and brown bricks. Since it inhabited part of the Old Dairy Farm Depot in 1984, the Fringe Club has been a celebrated exhibition and performance venue, and has helped transform the city’s arts scene with experimental works. Take a break at The Vault, a café that used to be a storage depot for ice, dairy and meat. Aside from light meals and drinks, you can also catch poetry reading sessions, exhibitions or performances here — check out the latest happenings before you visit.

A staircase decorated by the work of Korean artist Lee Tae-ho.

Fringe Dairy, formerly a milk depot, is a cosy venue for jazz and rock performances. Address: 2 Lower Albert Road, Central Tel: +852 2521 7251 Website: www.hkfringeclub.com

Photography is one of the key genres on offer. This photography atelier is also a small exhibition and activity venue. Take a look to see how photographers in Hong Kong manage to find the balance between commerciality and art.

Address: 35 Aberdeen Street, Central Tel: +852 2870 2335 Website: www.pmq.org.hk

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Yan Gallery Yan Gallery was founded by Fong Yuk Yan, a seasoned Chinese art dealer with over three decades’ experience. The gallery houses Chinese modern and contemporary paintings and sculptures, and represents legendary artists such as the late Wu Guangzhong. Address: Shop 5, G/F, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Road, Central Tel: +852 2139 2345 Website: www.yangallery.com

Parkview Art Hong Kong The collection of Parkview Art Hong Kong comprises important works by modern and contemporary artists, from world-class masters such as Fernando Botero and Zao Wou-ki to up-and-comers.

Address: Upper G/F, Sunrise House, 27 Old Bailey Street, Central Tel: +852 2413 0028 Website: www.parkviewarthk.com

La Galerie Paris 1839 La Galerie is one of the very few photography galleries in Hong Kong nurturing talent in Asian and Western photography. ‘1839' in the gallery’s name refers to the year the French Government acquired the invention rights from Louis Daguerre to offer photography to the world. Address: G/F, 74 Hollywood Road, Central Tel: +852 2540 4777 Website: www.lagalerie.hk

Karin Weber Gallery

One of the oldest streets in Hong Kong, Hollywood Road is lined with galleries and antiques shops offering ancient and contemporary, Asian and Western works. A very different expression of creativity can be seen in the form of graffiti on the walls of the many little alleys leading off the street.

Opposite to PMQ is Karin Weber Gallery, which was established in 1999 and elected one of the ‘500 Best Galleries Worldwide’ by Blouin Artinfo in 2015 and 2016. Besides an exceptional showcase of international art pieces, the gallery also hosts Hong Kong-themed exhibitions to support local artists. Address: 20 Aberdeen Street, Central Tel: +852 2544 5004 Website: www.karinwebergallery.com

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Street Art The historic neighbourhood of Hollywood Road, with its old buildings and interesting boutiques, is an ideal area for a relaxing stroll. Keep an eye out for tucked away street art and graffiti in some of the streets and alleys that intersect the road.

This mural of old townhouses is a popular photo spot for visitors. Intersection of 46 Graham Street and 48 Hollywood Road, Central

Mural at 8 Tai On Terrace, Sheung Wan

The green metal stall of Yuk Yip Desserts, a traditional dai pai dong, forms an interesting contrast with the murals of the urban pubs behind it. 2 Elgin Street, Central

Craftissimo hidden on Tai Ping Shan Street is renowned for its craft beers. 22-24 Tai Ping Shan Street, Sheung Wan

©HKWALLS2015-HOPARE The majority of murals around Central and Sheung Wan are curated by local graffiti group HKwalls. This portrait is one of them. Staircase between Hollywood Road and Square Street, Sheung Wan

©HKWALLS2015-XEVA This mural of Bruce Lee is done by Korean graffiti artist Xeva using his signature mosaic technique. Staircase between Hollywood Road and Square Street, Sheung Wan

On the same slope is a vibrant mural of Brooklyn. At the bottom right corner, a door is drawn to invite passers-by to step into the adjacent American bar Brooklyn Bar & Grill. 29 Staunton Street, Central

©HKWALLS2015-RUKKIT With his renowned freehand and stencilling techniques, Thai graffiti artist Rukkit revives this old building on Hollywood Road with a large mural. 186-190 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan

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Boom Art Gallery Bar A bar and gallery in one, Boom Art Gallery Bar embellishes its walls with fascinating creations by local emerging artists. It is a popular place for drinks and inspiring paintings and music performances.

Formerly a garage, the bar has turned the stairway into a stage.

Address: 48 Sai Street, Sheung Wan Tel: +852 9844 1688

The Popsy Room At The Popsy Room, art is something to relish gastronomically and visually. The gallery by day becomes a private kitchen at night, demonstrating a perfect fusion between art and gastronomy.

Explore the off-the-beaten-path art scene of the neighbourhood, enjoy a meal at an art-themed restaurant, and relax to some music at a small jazz club.

Peel Fresco Music Lounge Peel Fresco Music Lounge on Peel Street has live shows almost every night, with performances ranging from jazz to rock to Cantopop. Feel free to get on the stage and jam with the band on Tuesday and Sunday nights.

Address: 49 Peel Street, Central Tel: +852 2540 2046 Website: peel-fresco.com

The Popsy Room changes its menu regularly to keep customers surprised.

Address: 30 Upper Lascar Row, Sheung Wan Tel: +852 2234 6711 Website: www.thepopsyroom.com

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1 Lin Heung Tea House/P.26 2 Sing Heung Yuen/P.27 3 Lan Fong Yuen/P.28 4 Yuk Yip Desserts/P.28 5 Tai Cheong Bakery/P.29 6 Chan Yee Jai/P.29 7 Graham Market/P.30 8 Kung Lee Herbal Tea Shop/P.31 9 Tycoon Tann/P.32 10 Les Fils à Maman/P.33 11 Maison Libanaise/P.33 12 Little Bao/P.33 13 Chôm Chôm/P.33 14 Volar/P.34 15 Havana Bar/P.35 16 CÉ LA VI/P.35 17 Club Qing/P.35

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Take your taste buds on a tour of Central, a paradise for food lovers, offering a world of choices that are steps away from each other. From traditional dim sum to local dai pai dong to street food, from fusion cuisines to international fine wine, there’s something that appeals to everyone’s taste buds.

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Fancy a down-to-earth meal? Head to a dai pai dong —— open-air food stalls made of iron sheets and surrounded by foldable tables and stools. Grab a table and watch the seasoned chefs create dishes for your Hong Kong-style alfresco dining experience.

Dim sum, the steamed and fried Cantonese dishes created to go with tea, has undergone countless reinterpretations in Hong Kong and is now widely available around the world. However, in the hustle and bustle of Central, many traditional teahouses with decades of history still offer the most classic dim sum dishes, and Lin Heung Tea House, established in the early 20th century, is one of them.

Lin Heung Tea House

Sing Heung Yuen

Step into this two-storey building and be transported back in time by the vintage hanging fan, bird cages and Chinese calligraphy. Resisting modern trends, Lin Heung Tea House still maintains the tradition of serving dim sum in carts pushed by staff. Usually busy and lively, this is the place to try some of the most classic dim sum dishes, such as roast pork belly rolls, large chicken buns, and steamed pork siu mai with quail eggs. Rather than waiting to be served, diners here walk over to the cart to pick out their favourite dishes — a rare sight in today’s restaurants.

From morning till night, Sing Heung Yuen is always full of customers who come here for the signature tomato noodle soup and crispy buns with lemon and honey. The former is a sweet and sour delight with fresh tomatoes, whilst the latter is a traditional crispy bun topped with butter, honey and fresh lemon juice.

Thick and fragrant, the signature tomato noodle soup is made of tomatoes from Beijing and Italy. It is the first thing the owner prepares every day at 6am.

You can try different types of traditional Chinese dim sum at Lin Heung Tea House. Today Lin Heung Tea House still serves tea in a traditional Chinese tea cup. Pu’er, Jasmine, and Shoumei pair well with dim sum.

Fragrant and rich, lotus seed buns are a must-try at Lin Heung Tea House.

Info

Address: 160 Wellington Street, Central Tel: +852 2544 4556 Website: www.linheung.com.hk (Chinese only)

Info

The crispy buns with lemon and honey are made to order.

Address: 2 Mee Lun Street, Central Tel: +852 2544 8368

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Lan Fong Yuen Influenced by British culture, locals love to enjoy milk tea, but the Hong Kong version comes with evaporated milk and sugar. Different proportions and mixing techniques offer different flavours and textures. If you want a cup of authentic Hong Kong-style milk tea, Lan Fong Yuen is the place to go.

Every cup of milk tea contains five kinds of tea leaves sourced from Sri Lanka, India and other countries. Info

Address: 2 Gage Street, Central Tel: +852 2544 3895

Share Hong Kong's gastronomic delights with friends and family back home.

Tai Cheong Bakery Fancy a piping hot, silky and irresistibly aromatic egg tart? Grab one from Tai Cheong Bakery on Lyndhurst Terrace. With over 60 years of history, this household shop used to be a favourite of Hong Kong’s last colonial governor Chris Patten.

Freshly baked egg tarts come out of the oven in batches throughout the day.

Info

Address: 35 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central Tel: +852 8300 8301 Website: www.taoheung.com.hk/eng/ brands/tai_cheong/index.html

Yuk Yip Desserts

Chan Yee Jai

Already passed down to the fourth generation, the century-old Yuk Yip Dessert is known for their simple, no-gimmicks Chinese desserts that bring traditional tastes to customers. Try the smooth, refreshing green bean soup with kelp, and glutinous rice balls topped with sugar and shredded coconut.

Want to bring traditional Hong Kong-style desserts back home? Head to Chan Yee Jai, which has offered freshly made traditional delicacies such as haw flakes, preserved lemon with liquorice, Chinese almond biscuits, barley biscuits and bird’s nest cakes since 1927.

Different Hong Kong-style delicacies are displayed in big glass bottles.

Info

Address: 2 Elgin Street, Central Tel: +852 2544 3795

Info

Address:176B Queen’s Road Central, Central Tel: +852 2543 8414 Website: www.chanyeejai.com.hk (Chinese only) Quality Tourism Services (QTS) Scheme-accredited merchant

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Herbal tea is a quintessential part of Hong Kong life. Chinese herbal tonics, called leung cha (cooling tea) , are thought to expel heat and dampness from the body and treat everything from acne to colds. Before TV sets and air-conditioning became a staple in every home, people visited herbal teahouses equipped with fans and TVs for entertainment and respite from the hot and humid city. Today, they still offer a dose of ancient folk remedies in the form of a warm, earthy drink.

Kung Lee Herbal Tea Shop Founded in the 1940s, the herbal teahouse Kung Lee is still loved by many locals. The décor transports one back to the 1950s and 60s, with wooden fixtures, ceramic tiles and ceiling fans. Among the menu of herbal tonics, sugarcane juice is the bestseller. Peeled and steamed using traditional methods, the sugarcanes are pressed with an antique juicer to produce a refreshingly sweet juice that is served chilled. Don’t miss the glutinous sugarcane cakes if you are a fan of chewy sweet treats.

Graham Market

Info

Graham Market with over a century’s history is a popular place for groceries. Traditional foods such as sauces and handmade noodles make great souvenirs, and Kowloon Soy Company, founded in 1917, is renowned for soy sauce made with traditional techniques. Another must-go shop is Kan Kee Noodles, which has been operating for over six decades. The shop is famous for handmade shrimp egg noodles, egg noodles and wonton wrappers, which are favoured by nearby restaurants including Kau Kee Restaurant, Lin Heung Tea House and Shanghai Min.

Address: 60 Hollywood Road, Central Tel: +852 2544 3571

The signature sugar cane juice is sweet and refreshing.

Kowloon Soy Company sauces are made with traditional techiques that take around four to five months.

Info

Address: Graham Street, Central

You can also find Dongguan rice flour and other types of noodle at Kan Kee Noodles.

Besides sugar cane juice, Kung Lee also serves herbal tea and herbal tortoise jelly.

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Les Fils à Maman Short for ‘south of Hollywood Road’, SoHo is the name for the area between Staunton Street and Elgin Street. In the neighbourhood there are foods from all around the world –– from popular French and Vietnamese diners to lesser-known Lebanese restaurants, and even innovative fusion cuisines.

Co-founded by four childhood buddies from France, this cosy place is decorated with myriad vintage toys. As an alternative to the city’s many upscale French restaurants, Les Fils à Maman transports diners to a warm home in France. Enjoy a hearty red wine beef stew, Babybel croquettes and other traditional bistro delights. Info

Address: 75 Hollywood Road, Central Tel: +852 2871 0045 Website: www.lesfilsamaman.hk

Maison Libanaise Maison Libanaise is managed by Michelin-starred Lebanese chef James Harrison, who creates impressive dishes with ingredients and seasonings mostly imported from the Middle East. Dine on authentic Lebanese dishes such as baba ganoush and hummus, paired with Lebanese wine or beer. Or, if you are in a hurry, grab a tabouleh or pita to go. Info

Address: G-2/F, 10 Shelley Street, Central Tel: +852 2111 2284 Website: www.maisonlibanaise.com.hk

Little Bao With her innovative take on the traditional ‘bao’ or Chinese buns, May Chow, owner and chef of Little Bao, was named ‘Asia’s Best Female Chef’ by Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2017. Her handmade buns creatively fuse ingredients such as pork belly, Sichuan-style fried chicken and fish tempura.

Tycoon Tann In this historic building there’s a lounge offering a wide range of innovative Chinese-influenced cocktails, and a small but classic two-storey restaurant. Try the eponymous Tycoon Tann aperitif served in a traditional tea cup, and East-meets-West delights such as charcoalgrilled Hungarian Mangalica pork with honey sauce and roast Peking duck with black caviar.

Info

Address: G-2/F, Ming Fat Building, 47 Wellington Street, Central Tel: +852 3125 3228 Website: www.tycoontann.com

Info

Address: 66 Staunton Street, Central Tel: +852 2194 0202 Website: www.little-bao.com

Chôm Chôm Black patio doors and a white marble bar bring industrial chicness to this Vietnamese restaurant. Here you can enjoy chicken wings in fish sauce, smoked eggplant and other authentic delights, and experience the local street-food culture. Wash it all down with a ‘Pho-jito’, with the kick of refreshing peppermint and fiery red chilli. Info

Address: 58 Peel Street, Central Tel: +852 2810 0850 Website: www.chomchom.hk

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Havana Bar Time for a taste of Hong Kong’s nightlife in Lan Kwai Fong, where rows of bars and nightclubs promise a never-ending night. Enjoy the breathtaking view of the Central lights as you sip on a cocktail, or hit the dance floor at one of the city’s hottest clubs.

Sit on the terrace and try the signature mojito mixed with home-grown peppermint leaves at this Cuban bar and restaurant.

Info

Address: 4/F, The Plaza, 21 D’Aguilar Street, Central Tel: +852 2851 4880 Website: www.havanabar.com.hk

CÉ LA VI The tropical-themed space is divided into an Asian fusion restaurant, lounge and sky deck, and a rooftop bar, which makes it an ideal spot to take in the intoxicating night view of Central.

Info

Address: 25/F, California Tower, 32 D’Aguilar Street, Central Tel: +852 3700 2300 Website: hk.celavi.com

Volar

Club Qing

Tucked away in the basement of a non-descript building is Volar, where world-class DJs have come to spin for over a decade.

Take your pick from over 300 kinds of whisky, mostly from Japan. You can find out-of-production and special or limited edition Japanese drams here. Check out the extremely rare bottles on display at the corner, including the out-of-production Karuizawa single barrel.

Info

Address: Basement, 38-44 D’Aguilar Street, Central Tel: +852 2810 1510 Website: volar.com.hk

Info

Address: 10/F, Cosmos Building, 8-11 Lan Kwai Fong, Central Tel: +852 9379 7628 Website: clubqing.com

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The warren of streets and alleys packed full of stores and markets in Central make it a great area for treasure hunters. Start off on Upper Lascar Row, where you will see a fascinating mix of antiques and Chinese calligraphy dealers. Walk uphill to reach Tai Ping Shan Street and the PoHo area — a young and vibrant community of businesses formed by creative minds and the style-savvy. Wrap up your stroll around the Bridges Street area — a melting pot of old and new, with second-hand books and knickknacks that feed your imagination about the city’s past.

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Hipster 9 Those who love history may find themselves completely absorbed in the antique shops and stalls lining Upper Lascar Row. In recent years, local designer boutiques and vintage clothing stores have popped up nearby, drawing in more and more locals and visitors.

Now located on Lok Ku Road, Hipster 9 is a vintage fashion store which started out on Hollywood Road among elderly hawkers. With unique designs and a European vintage store vibe, it is home to a vast collection of designer bags, brass jewellery from the 1950s, vintage leather jackets and more to intrigue even the most discerning of customers.

Upper Lascar Row The highlight of Upper Lascar Row is the seemingly endless row of antique stores, offering an eclectic collection of Chinese calligraphy, arts and vintage furniture. This runs parallel to stalls that sell an array of bric-à-brac collectibles, such as Mao Zedong alarm clocks and Bruce Lee posters. Like its offerings, the name of the street is also rich in history. In the early colonial days, ‘Lascar’ was a term used to refer to South Asians in the British military. Many Lascars came to Hong Kong to work in the police force and a small community of South Asians grew around what is now Upper Lascar Row, which was near the police headquarters.

The majority of stalls on Upper Lascar Row sell antiques, Chinese-style ornaments and jewellery.

Info

Address: 6 Lok Ku Road, Sheung Wan Tel: +852 2310 0688

A lot of the goods sold here are like new.

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InBetween and Tallensia Floral Art Tai Ping Shan Street is the backbone of PoHo, on which you will find blue-clad vintage store InBetween next to Tallensia Floral Art’s green shopfront. InBetween houses an international collection of vintage goods ranging from decanters to film posters, and from vinyl to lapel pins. The store is also home to a selection of local designer products. Tallensia Floral Art is a florist with an artistic touch that offers bouquets as well as flower arrangement workshops.

A few steps up from Upper Lascar Row lies PoHo, a hip community spanning Tai Ping Shan Street, Po Hing Fong, Pound Lane, Sai Street and Square Street. A stark contrast to the packed Upper Lascar Row, PoHo is a quiet district where shops selling goods from around the world are nestled between galleries and teahouses; and design studios meet vintage stores in a discreet little bohemian neighbourhood.

InBetween is home to a great selection of second-hand collectibles.

Info

InBetween Address: 6B Tai Ping Shan Street, Sheung Wan Tel: +852 6097 1817

Tallensia Floral Art’s shop owner chose to set up shop on Tai Ping Shan Street because of the relaxing surroundings.

Info

Tallensia Floral Art Address: 6C Tai Ping Shan Street, Sheung Wan Tel: +852 2239 4300

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Château Zoobeetle Château Zoobeetle is a cosy little stop where French sisters Elsa and Johanna who own the luxury leather goods brand, Zoobeetle, display their carefully curated clothing, accessories, CDs and furniture. Enjoy a glass of champagne amid French tunes at the open kitchen and bar area of this treasure trove celebrating le joie de vivre.

Info

Address: 38 Sai Street, Sheung Wan Tel: +852 9288 2472 Website: www.zoobeetle.com

Gough Street is music to the ears of hipsters who have a soft spot for homeware. Flanked by stores selling myriad home decorations, this unique block has something for everyone who wants a tasteful souvenir for his/her own home.

Nordic Room by Homeless Nordic Room by Homeless greets visitors with a quintessential Scandinavian vibe. This enclave houses masterpieces from legendary designer Arne Jacobsen, homeware and stationery by Danish brand Normann Copenhagen, Moomins character cutlery, crystal rainbow maker and many more.

L'impression du temps At first glance, one might wonder whether L'impression du temps is a gallery or a fashion boutique. Hanging inside the well-lit store are colourful banners, alongside silk foulards and attire with exquisite prints. It might not be apparent that this is a pattern design studio until you set foot inside. The designer generates algorithmic patterns by computer to produce wallpapers, fabrics and even 3D-printed goods to construct everything from clothing to homeware.

Info

Address: 58 Po Hing Fong, Sheung Wan Tel: +852 2803 2993 Website: l-impression-du-temps.com

squarestreet

Info

Address: 29 Gough Street, Sheung Wan Tel: +852 2581 1880 Website: www.homeless.hk

Visionaire Almost all homeware and jewellery at Visionaire are sourced by the store’s three owners on their trips to Europe, Australia and Japan. Highlights, such as the bread-shaped tissue box and antique wooden blinds, can spice up any home.

This tiny designer shop named after its address is the brainchild of Swedish designer duo David Ericsson and Alexis Holm. Their shoe and timepiece designs feature a balance between form and function. They also stock maps and other goods envisaged by a Hong Kongbased Danish designer.

Info

Address: 15 Square Street, Sheung Wan Tel: +852 2362 1086 Website: www.15squarestreet.com

Info

Address: 26 Gough Street, Sheung Wan Tel: +852 2745 6868 Website: www.visionaire.hk

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You Wu Studio × JikSap You Wu Studio × JikSap is a vintage bookstore hidden away upstairs, just next to Wing Lee Street, which was made famous by the film Echoes of the Rainbow. Decades ago, it was nicknamed ‘printers’ street’ because of the traditional printers that were located here. The printing industry has left but you can still get a sense of that bygone era from the interesting collection of vintage books, newspapers, magazines, movie flyers, invoices and even job application letters in You Wu Studio × JikSap. Sylvia, one of the owners, enjoys sourcing these ordinary printed matters as they are a window to the past. The name ‘You Wu’ means a ‘serendipitous encounter’. Thanks to the shop’s irregular open hours, a visit here does require a bit of luck.

Info

Address: 17 Shing Wong Street, Sheung Wan

Info

Address: 18 Bridges Street, Central Tel: +852 2858 8803

Select 18 Treasure hunters will be delighted at Select 18, a place caught up in time with a carefully curated collection of treasures ranging from vintage spectacles, bags and hats to old radios and vinyl, among other items amassed by Mido, the owner. Mido is a Hongkonger of Indian descent, and has been an avid collector of Scandinavian furniture and eyewear since he was young. He also has a taste for vintage items, as reflected by the collectibles he personally gathered or received from relatives abroad.

Staunton Street features an amazing mix of effervescence and tranquility. At one end, there is the SoHo bar and restaurant area; at the other, the art hub of PMQ. In between lies a string of understated yet interesting outlets, including an old bookstore and a vintage shop, offering a glimpse into the past.

The vintage items sold at Select 18 are mainly sourced from Hong Kong, which is rare, according to Mido, as compared to the abundant supply of vintage merchandise from the US and Europe.

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Possession Street is the best point to start a one-day or afternoon trip in Central. You can discover heritage sites, explore art, sample local food and hunt for hidden treasures in a warren of narrow streets and alleys. End your trip at Pottinger Street in the vibrant heart of the neighbourhood.

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Hong Kong Tourism Board Visitor Information Services Hong Kong International Airport Visitor Centre Buffer Halls A and B, Arrivals Level, Terminal 1 8am to 9pm daily Hong Kong Island Visitor Centre The Peak Piazza (between The Peak Tower and The Peak Galleria) 11am to 8pm daily Kowloon Visitor Centre Star Ferry Concourse, Tsim Sha Tsui 8am to 8pm daily Lo Wu Information Centre 2/F Arrival Hall, Lo Wu Terminal Building Visitor Hotline: +852 2508 1234 9am to 6pm daily  Email: [email protected] Website: DiscoverHongKong.com Information is correct as of March 2017, but is subject to change without prior notice. Hong Kong Tourism Board disclaims any liability for the quality or fitness for the purpose of third-party products or services; or for any errors or omissions. ©Copyright Hong Kong Tourism Board 2017

See details on: DiscoverHongKong.com

Printed for the Hong Kong Tourism Board, English, April 2017 (0525)