paulistanas - Visite SÃ£o Paulo

CURIOSIDADES AULISTANAS PAULISTANAS

SÃO PAULO’ S SURPRI SES

A pragmatic historical sense of São Paulo Por Juan Pablo

People develop a “sense of place” after they have lived in a place and got to know it. São Paulo is a city with an intense and particularsense of place . What does this mean? A sense of place sets the city apart from everywhere else, and daily interactions with it become totally memorable. How it feels to stroll through Ibirapuera Park, for instance: the texture of the grass in this most emblematic of parks, the colors of the sky at dawn, the scent of flowers blooming in their seasons, the birdsong and the murmurings of the different sorts of people—”tribes” as they call them in Portuguese—who you will come across, such as lovers picnicking on the lawns or kids roller skating. These are all environmental influences that help define the city’s sense of place, something that depends utterly on the point of view of inhabitants, visitors, travelers, passersby or migrants. Personal and cultural experiences over a period of time—daily routines and absolute novelties—will anchor a place in our memories. São Paulo is memorable in this way. São Paulo’s Surprises visits a number of unique locations in the city to explore how historical events can shape people’s perceptions of a massive metropolis. Much more than descriptions of places, the book is narrated with great truthfulness, with a shared common view, and is bursting with uniqueness, enchantment and seduction. The stories brought together in this work show everything that is best about São Paulo: they draw our attention to the everyday, to things that would otherwise have escaped our notice, inspiring us to take a second, closer look at the world around us. Juan Pablo De Vera Barbieri has been President and Board Member of the

São Paulo Convention & Visitors Bureau since 2013. Born in Uruguay, he settled in São Paulo in the 1990s and has worked since then in the Brazilian events market.

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Unusual angles of São Paulo Por Toni Sando

São Paulo’s Surprises, written by journalist Zedu Lima, is a noteworthy initiative by São Paulo Convention & Visitors Bureau (SPCVB) retelling a number of curious episodes from São Paulo’s past. The habits revealed in interpersonal relations and in the places visited are the basis of thirty stories compiled by the author, illustrating an equal number of curiosities and idiosyncrasies. Deploying the upbeat and hard-hitting prose as in other works from his vast collection of accounts of his travels around the world, Zedu displays his fascination for São Paulo, and above all the artistic, cultural and architectural wealth of the city. The most interesting thing about these stories is that they are conveyed in a logical and yet intriguing sequence drawing in the reader, who will probably enjoy it all in a single sitting. Laid out by topic, each chapter reflects one of the city’s permanent impressions. Easy to interpret and follow, these curiosities go beyond historical aspects of the city to include technical definitions, references, landmark events and detailed tips for every visit. São Paulo’s Surprises is a book rich in historical detail, written with a simple, delicate touch, allowing the reader a glimpse behind the city’s veils into fascinating events that were played out on the canvas of the past. Simple yet fascinating events that took place in the city that is simply the best. Toni Sando has been the Executive President of São Paulo Convention & Visitors Bureau since 2005. Paulistano, business administrator, São Paulo’s biggest fan.

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São Paulo is always surprising!

Por Zedu Lima

São Paulo is this, that and the other! São Paulo is much more than that! Latin America’s cultural capital! Its cuisine is universal! São Paulo owes nothing to New York! It has its own personality! Where yesterday, today and tomorrow meet! All this and more is true, of course, but many of the city’s inhabitants going about their business here on a daily basis, as well as sporadic visitors to the town, do not— indeed could not—know the city intimately in its entirety, because it is a huge and endless source of surprises. The daily hustle and bustle gives the crowds thronging its streets no chance of suspecting that an older building, a city square, a church or a monument could be hiding a story. Who could have imagined that Brazilian animals are concealed at the top of the columns of the Sé Cathedral? Or that in a fine old downtown building lurks Latin America’s only tattoo museum? That you can still harvest coffee in Ibirapuera Park like on upstate coffee plantations. Who knew that there had been a gold rush in the town of Guarulhos before gold was mined in Minas Gerais? And how about watching a movie while waiters bring you the food shown on the screen? Did you know the city’s oldest cemetery is in its outskirts, and that it is not even Catholic in origin? Fancy a flutter? Come bet on cockroach races at a roachodrome! Zedu Lima

Journalist and Writer.

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ARCHEOLOGY

SÃO PAULO’ S SURPRIS ES

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ARCHEOLOGICAL EXPEDITION There’s no need to brave the perils of an Indiana Jones to find eight-thousand-year-old artifacts. Just pay a visit to Sítio Morrinhos, in the Jardim São Bento neighborhood of São Paulo’s north side: there you can find elements from the city’s past—porcelain, pottery, animal bones, scraps of newspaper bearing reports from the Crimean War (1853-1856), indigenous arrow heads that are 5,500 years old. These are a few of the 100,000 items in the collection of the Centro de Arqueologia de São Paulo, which is coordinated by the University of São Paulo and the Historical Heritage Department. Their mission is to run a program on the archeological history of São Paulo. These objects all shed light on the daily lives of former inhabitants of the area. Sítio Morrinhos lies on the site of an early eighteenthcentury wattle and daub house, known as a casa bandeirista (1702). Other outbuildings such as the senzala or slave quarters date from the late eighteenth century, and from the early twentieth. Taken over at first by the São Bento Monastery in 1902, the Farm was later donated to City Hall in 1952. The material in the collection began to be dug from the ground in 1979. The newspaper fragments about the Crimean War were found in the Solar da Marquesa de Santos on Rua Roberto Simonsen: excavation of these and ten thousand other objects ran from 2008 to 2010. Archeological digs were held in the square called Largo da Batata in the Pinheiros neighborhood and at Sítio Lítico in the Morumbi district. Sítio Morrinhos Centro de Arqueologia de São Paulo R. Santo Anselmo, 102 - Jd. São Bento – São Paulo (11) 2236-6121 www.museudacidade.sp.gov.br 7

GOLD MINE IN GUARULHOS MINA DE OURO EM GUARULHOS

Photo: Glaucia Garcia de Carvalho

One hundred years before gold was ever mined in Minas Gerais (in the late seventeenth and early eighteenth centuries) the town of Guarulhos was shaken by a gold rush. The explorer, or bandeirante (as they were called) Afonso Sardinha, “the younger”, son of another Afonso Sardinha who had helped open up São Paulo by land, found gold in 1590 or thereabouts, not only in Guarulhos, which nestles in the Serra da Mantiqueira range, but also in the Jaraguá region and near the town of São Roque. The mine was quickly depleted after the explorers exploited it over-hastily. By the mid-eighteenth century it was too difficult and dangerous to go on prospecting because the rocks constantly caved in. In any case, new reserves were discovered in Minas Gerais and the miners of Guarulhos shifted their attentions there. The region became the Lavras neighborhood on the Nazaré Paulista Highway, where certain structures have survived virtually intact, the remains of those explorations: retaining walls, bricks, stone staircases and the traces of dams and canals.

To prevent this historical relic from completely disappearing, a plan has been put forward to create a Geoparque, an area that will achieve scientific and environmentally protected status; for this to happen it must become a heritage site certified by UNESCO. CONDEPHAAT (São Paulo State’s Council for the Defense of the Historical, Artistic, Archaeological and Tourist Heritage) is planning to request listed status. 8

ARTEAND E CULTURA ART CULTURE


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BEES, ANTS AND ROACHODROME

Photo: Fabiano F. Albertoni

Would you like to peek at silkworms contributing to the making of a fine shirt? Or spy on how the busy bees produce honey? And how the disciplined ants carry on their daily labors? More than that: fancy a bet on a cockroach race at the roachodrome? Discover which peoples use insects as a source of nutrition and those who train them to defeat all-comers in fighting championships. We are not talking about science fiction or cartoons. You can do all of these things at Planeta Inseto, a section of the Museu do Instituto Biológico. Interactive and hands-on, the exhibitions shows many aspects of insect life, underscoring their important role in environmental sustainability, the production of foodstuffs, and in public health. The project is coordinated by the Instituto Biológico in partnership with the Secretaria da Cultura and the Catavento Cultural and Educational Agency. Planeta Inseto - Museu do Instituto Biológico R. Amâncio de Carvalho, 546 – Vila Mariana – São Paulo (11) 2613-9500 / 2613-9400 www.biologicosp.gov.br

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CIVIL WORKS ARTWORKS Hoping to make the city a more colorful place, the subway system, Metrô de São Paulo, has allowed graffiti artists to use the hoardings around stations under construction as the canvas for their art. A competition entitled Arte de Obra (a pun on Obra de Arte—”Work of Art”—that we could translate here as “Works Art”), open to professional and amateur artists, will reward the winning works by using them literally to transform construction works into art works.

Photo: Andre Stefano

On the topic of Metrô. Mais mobilidade, sustentabilidade e tecnologia, (“SP Subway: More mobility, sustainability and technology”) thirty works were chosen to grace the construction sites for Linha 5 - the Lilac Line. Anjo graffitied the hoardings for Estação Hospital São Paulo; Chivitz has covered the hoardings for Estação Brooklin; Minhau was tasked with graffitiing Estação Borba Gato; Nick’s graffiti is gracing Estação Boa Vista; and Kobra has decorated Estação AACD- Servidor.


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FROM CEMETERY TO MUSEUM

Photo: Douglas Nascimento

Look at her in the State Pinacoteca (or Art Museum): haughty, feminine, sensual, enigmatic. Who would have thought she came from the Araçá Cemetery, where she lived for many years? The marble sculpture known as Musa Impassível hides an interesting story. It used to adorn the tomb of poetess Francisca Júlia, who died on November 1, 1920. The daughter of a lawyer and a public school teacher, Francisca Júlia da Silva was born in 1871 in a town called Vila de Xiririca, currently the municipality of Eldorado. The family moved to São Paulo when she was still a child; her literary talents were soon noticed. When she was 14 years old she wrote short poems that were published in three different newspapers—O Estado de S. Paulo, Correio Paulistano, and Diário Popular. 13

She published a book of poems in 1895: “Mármores” (Marble Sculptures) containing “Musa Impassível”, (Impassive Muse), which was praised by the critics at a time when the craft of poetry was seen as virtually an exclusively male preserve. She killed herself the morning after her husband’s funeral. A group of intellectuals led by patron of the arts and federal senator José Freitas Valle asked the Director of the Estado de São Paulo, Washington Luis, to commission a statue for Francisca Júlia’s tomb. The young sculptor Victor Brecheret was given the task. Taking his inspiration from Francisca Júlia’s poetry he produced Musa Impassível in Paris, where he was studying with a scholarship. The statue took him two years to produce (1921-23). The statue was being eroded by pollution so it was transferred from the Araçá Cemetery to the Pinacoteca do Estado, right by the Parque da Luz. It took fifteen people and a crane to remove the statue. A bronze replica replaced the original. Pinacoteca do Estado

Pça. da Luz, 2 – Luz – São Paulo (11) 3324-1000 www.pinacoteca.org.br

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SKIN MEMORY

Photo: José Cordeiro/ SPTuris

Hidden away on the first floor of the listed Cadete Galvão Building on Rua 24 de Maio, in downtown São Paulo, the Museu Tattoo Brasil is Latin America’s first and only museum dedicated to tattooing. It was inaugurated in 2004 by professional tattoo artists and collector Elcio Sespede, known as Polaco: his collection gathers more than 500 personal items and the donations of friends. They include preparatory sketches, engravings, finished designs; the paraphernalia of tattooing among primitive peoples, the manual machines used in Brazilian and Russian prisons, and devices rigged up using shaving tackle. There is also a facsimile of Thomas Edson’s patented Stencil-Pen of 1876. The museum contains the Estúdio Polaco Tattoo, its goal is to show the origins and evolution of tattooing, a centuries-old art that was practiced worldwide before reaching Brazil in 1959, when Danish tattoo artist Knud Harald Lykke Gregersen landed here: also known as Lucky Tattoo, he brought a tattoo machine he had inherited from his father. It also aims to track the evolution of this form of artistic expression, which uses the human body as its support and expresses itself through drawings fixed eternally in the skin. 15

Photo: José Cordeiro/ SPTuris

In March each year the museum organizes the São Paulo Tattoo Festival, where artists from all around the world come to display. Museu Tattoo Brasil

R. 24 de Maio, 255 – 1º andar – Centro – São Paulo (11) 3222-8049 / 3333-3220 www.museutattoobrasil.com.br

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DE FRENTE PRO CRIME

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Italian immigrant Giuseppe Pistone murdered his wife Maria Fea in 1928. He dismembered her body and tried to board a liner to Europe carrying the pieces. The police arrested him, however. The notorious Crime da mala (Suitcase Murder) is one item in the collection of the Museu do Crime, a museum dedicated to crimes, in the facilities of the Associação dos Investigadores de Polícia do Estado de São Paulo (AIPESP), (roughly translated as the SP State Detectives’ Association) in the Luz neighborhood. It is kept up by Dr. Milton Bednarski, who has devoted more than fifty years to his researches and to cataloging the wealth of material held in the museum.


Paintings, photographs, documents, ancient weapons, badges and apparatus used by the SP Police since the early twentieth century are among the items on display. Other crimes and tragedies can be seen here, besides the Suitcase Murder: the Crime of the Well, committed by immigrant Michel Trad who murdered his partner in 1908; the exploits of the intrepid burglar Meneghetti; and the unsolved murder-cum-suicide known as the Apa Street Murder or Crime do Castelinho da Rua Apa, on the corner of Avenida São João (the incident took place on the night of May 12, 1937); the Andraus Building Fire, the Cine Oberdan tragedy and the Chinese Restaurant crime. Museu do Crime

Av. Cásper Líbero, 535 – Luz – São Paulo (11) 3228-7489 www.saopauloantiga.com.br/museu-do-crime (*) De frente pro crime is the title of a song written by João Bosco and Aldir Blanc 17

DE FRENTE PRO CRIME

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More instructive and scientific, the collection of the Museu da Polícia Civil, also known as the Museu do Crime, is on the campus of the University of São Paulo. It tackles subjects like drugs, forgery, traffic accidents, fires, weapons, crimes and criminals.

In addition to photographs of great tragedies and murders, such as the notorious Suitcase Murder—the suitcase itself being one of the museum’s rarities—the museum has mock prison cells. Weapons used in crimes are also displayed.

The more heinous crimes have a special wing to themselves, split into sex crimes, thefts and massacres. In this wing you will find the Maniac of the Park, (Maníaco do Parque), Mincemeat Frank (Chico Picadinho), the Red Light Bandit (Bandido da Luz Vermelha), Italian “cat burglar” Meneghetti and, of course, the Crime da Mala.

The museum’s educational bias is clear on a panel showing the step by step progress of a trial, as well as the work of investigation, the importance of forensics and technical evidence, procedures to identify cadavers and a methodology for taking spoken descriptions.

The museum had been open to the public since 1952 at a different address; in the 1920s its collection had been available to cadets of the Academia da Polícia Civil. It moved to new premises in 1970. Photo: Guia da Semana

Museu do Crime da Polícia Civil

Museu do Crime da Polícia Civil Pça. Prof. Reinaldo Porchat - São Paulo (11) 3468-3360 - www.facebook.com/museudocrime (*) De frente pro crime is the title of a song written by João Bosco and Aldir Blanc 18

SCENTED MUSEUM Actress Marilyn Monroe wore two drops of Chanel n° 5— and nothing else—in bed. Before her, Napoleon Bonaparte was never without his Eau de Cologne Royale - Jean Marie Farina: he even kept a small vial inside his boot.

Photo: Frank Powolny, 1953

These are a few of the items making up a collection of more than 500 pieces in the Espaço Perfume Arte + História, (“Perfume Museum: Art and History”) in the Perdizes neighborhood. The museum was created by Grupo Boticário in partnership with Faculdade Santa Marcelina, and relates the history of perfumery from 3000 BC until today. The ancient Egyptians, for example, were the first to perfume rooms and indoor spaces by burning spices during ceremonies, in order to please the gods. This explains the Latin etymology of the word perfume: per (by means of) and fumem (smoke). 19

Photo: Bel Ascenso

Among the museum’s relics are a flask dating back to 1500 BC, and one hundred notable Brazilian and foreign brands of perfume. A gallery of Brazilian vials that were successful from the 1940s to the 1970s is like a stroll past the dressing-tables of Brazilian homes of the period. The major attraction of this osmothèque (library of scents) is the Olfactory Pyramid.Adevice imported from France shows a video of the three parts making up any perfume— the top notes, middle notes and base notes—while fragrances are exhaled by another device installed above the visitors’heads, stimulating the sense of sight, hearing and smell. Wheelchair users may move freely in this museum owing to the wide spaces and the elevator. The visually impaired can read captions in Braille, while there is a tactile map of the space and special tactile markings on the floor. Espaço Perfume Arte + História R. Dr. Emílio Ribas, 110 – Perdizes – São Paulo (11) 2361-7728 - www.espacoperfume.com.br 20

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ARTS


VISITE SÃO PAULO

COFFEE HARVESTING Every year the Instituto Biológico opens its doors to allow members of the public to pick coffee from its ten thousandsquare-meter plantation of fifteen hundred coffee bushes. This event is called Sabor da Colheita, (“A Taste of the Harvest”) and usually takes place on May 24th, Brazil’s National Coffee Day, and marks the start of the coffee harvest in São Paulo state. Baristas, coffee farmers, and the representatives of cooperatives, coffee shops and coffee companies, as well as plain old coffee lovers, can enjoy the experience of life on a coffee farm in the heart of the city.

Photo: Revista Espresso

Those taking part wear all the necessary equipment: protective goggles and gloves; hats; sieves and baskets for selecting the best coffee for harvesting under the guidance of experts. While they pick the beans they are serenaded by music provided by the Café Concerto. Since 2006 the event has been organized by the State Secretariat for Agriculture and Food Supply, and the Sectoral Chamber for Coffee (an agency of the Coordinator’s Office for the Development of Agribusiness) in partnership with the Instituto Biológico. It is supported by Sindicafé-SP, the State Coffee Industry Union, and ABIC, Brazil’s Coffee Industry Association. Sabor da Colheita - Instituto Biológico Av. Conselheiro Rodrigues Alves, 1252 – Vila Mariana – São Paulo (11) 5579-4234 www.biologico.sp.gov.br 23

REVEALING SÃO PAULO

Photo: Reinaldo Meneguim | Fernanda Forato

Following regional editions, Revelando São Paulo Festival da Cultura Paulista Tradicional (“Revealing São Paulo - Traditional Paulista Culture Festival”) comes to town, showing the heritage and the cultural identity of 200 of the state’s municipalities. All sorts of folk groups—Folias de Reis, Folias do Divino, Catira, Fandangos, Cururus, Congos and Moçambiques—took part in the latest (17th) edition, held in the Parque do Trote, Vila Guilherme neighborhood, from September 13 to 22, to celebrate the fiftieth anniversary of the event. Reviving the trotting races of former times, the schedule included more than 200 animals (horses, cattle, buffaloes and donkeys), taking part in displays of horse-riding (Cavalgadas), mock cavalry battles (Cavalhadas), Mule Trains and Ox-drawn Carriages. The crafts on display include a winnowing device holder made out of worn horseshoes. The Revelando São Paulo - Festival da Cultura Paulista Tradicional show is promoted by Abaçai Cultura e Arte and supported by Rede Globo. Revelando São Paulo - Abaçaí Cultura e Arte Av. Cásper Líbero, 390 – 6º andar – conj. 610 – Luz - São Paulo (11) 3312-2900 revelandosaopaulo.org.br 24

GASTRONOMY


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MOVIE FLAVORS While Tony Curtis, Jack Lemmon and Marilyn Monroe entertain the audience on the screen, in Some Like it Hot, waiters serve drinks in teacups. That was what bars used to do in America during Prohibition to throw the police off the scent. To serve the main course—a bed of coconut farofa on which, like tourists on Mimi’s beaches, shrimp, squid and mussel skewers sunbathe on the sand—the waiters imitate Jack Lemmon and come complete with roses in their teeth. At the end of the film, to pay homage to Marilyn Monroe, the audience are served with an almond manjar accompanied by vermouth and red fruit sauce.

Photo: GQ Online

Chef João Belezia created this menu in the 2nd edition of Mesa no Cinema, in 2012 at CineSesc in order to mimic the plot of Some Like it Hot. This event in October is part of the scheduling for Semana Mesa SP, staged by Prazeres da Mesa magazine and SENAC São Paulo. In partnership with CineSesc, chefs are invited to replicate the film being shown in the shape of a menu. During the session the audience can thus taste what is showing on the screen. Mesa no Cinema - CineSesc

R.Augusta, 2075 – Jardim Paulista – São Paulo (11) 3087-0500 www.semanamesasp.com.br 27

EAT YOUR FILL If there is one thing about what São Paulo has to offer that everyone agrees on in Brazil, it is its gastronomy. A far-reaching range of recipes and seasonings from around the world can be found here: the city has some 12,500 restaurants representing 52 nationalities, ethnicities and regions and the most diversified range of Brazilian and international culinary trends. Just to give you an idea, São Paulo has 600 Japanese restaurants, 3,200 bakeries, 6,000 pizzerias, 500 steak houses and 15,000 bars. Ten and a half million small French rolls (7,200 every minutes), one million pizzas (720/min) and 400,000 dishes of sushi (278/min) are consumed every day.

Photo: André Stefano

Of course, it is about the more sophisticated restaurants that everyone is talking, where the dishes served are not the most generous. But there is another side to this coin, the multitude of less-renowned dives and joints (biroscas and botecos) where the food takes up at least 85% of the area of the dish. This is what journalist André Barcinski has described in his Guia da Culinária Ogra - 195 Lugares Para Comer Até Cair (“Cuisine for Ogres - 195 Places to Eat till you Drop” - Edit. Planeta do Brasil, 2013). As he writes, “The great thing about these places is that they are as welcoming and reliable as a mother’s lap, with lengthy, varied menus, where you can turn up at any time and order anything at all in complete confidence.” 28

Here are a few more of his suggestions: ESTADÃO

Beyond its emblematic pork leg sandwiches, “it is one of the few places where you can get yourself a black bean and pork stew (the famous Brazilian “feijoada”) at four in the morning.” Viaduto Nove de Julho, 193 - Bela Vista - São Paulo. (11) 3257-7121 - www.estadaolanches.com.br

PASV

Photo: Ricardo Matsukawa / Terra

“The only place I know where if you order paella to go they let you take the pan itself home with you.” Av. São João, 1145- República - São Paulo -(11) 3221-2715

SUJINHO

“This is a true Paulistano classic: eat here till you drop. Make sure you sample their famous cabbage and onion salad before tackling the pork cutlet head-on! After that you will be unable to concentrate on anything at all for a long, long time.” R. da Consolação, 2063 / 2068 / 2078 - Consolação - São Paulo (11) 3231-5207 - www.sujinho.com.br

Photo: Blog: “O bom garfo”, or trencherman / Marcos Nogueira, editor, “Boa Vida”, VIP magazine

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TOUR ETÍLICO-GASTRONÔMICO With such a huge range of choices, how can you find out where to eat and drink what you want, at an affordable price? How can you avoid wasting time trying to find the ideal spot for a tasting or to harmonize food and drink? A group of experts has come together to devise a few itineraries that will mix business and pleasure.

SAMPA BEER TOUR


The goal is to try twelve types of beer, setting them off against eight types of snacks and amuse-bouches in four of the city’s bars. The tour starts on Saturdays from Faria Lima subway station at mid-day, and lasts five hours. Bookings: [email protected] www.facebook.com/sampabeertour

SWEET FLAVOUR TOUR

Lasting three hours, and slated for Fridays and Saturdays beginning at 14:00, this circuit takes in pâtisseries in the Pinheiros-Jardins neighborhoods. Meeting Point: Maria Brigadeiro, R. Capote Valente, 68 - Jardins. Bookings: (11) 98329-7464 - www.savorsaopaulo.com.br

FOOD HUNTERS

Tours around the city center, stopping at three restaurants, beginning 20:00, setting out from Paribar (Praça D. José Gaspar, 42). Duration: two hours. R. Ministro Godói, 471 - Perdizes,São Paulo - www.foodpass.com.br

PUB CRAWL SP

The name says it all. The pub crawl takes place every Tuesday and Thursday on Rua Augusta, and Fridays and Saturdays in the Vila Madalena neighborhood, lasting five hours. (11) 971451065 - www.pubcrawlsp.com 30

SABOR DE SÃO PAULO A fun way of discovering what is eaten around the State is the Festival Gastronômico Sabor de São Paulo, held annually, every June, in Água Branca park. The best of caipira and caiçara cuisine (from the hinterland and from the coast respectively) are served at very affordable prices. The second time it was held, in 2013, an audience of some 35,000 people enjoyed Cupim Casqueirado from Araçatuba; Trem de Milho from Araraquara and Casadinho de Manjuba from Iguape, among other delights.



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The two-stage festival is a State Tourism Secretariat project and is staged by Prazeres da Mesa magazine. In the first stage chefs and culinary experts visit a number of towns on the coast and away from the state’s major metropolises to choose the best local dishes. The winning treats from each region are selected to take part in the event in the park: the recipes are published in the State Tourism Secretariat’s Culinary Tourism Guide (Guia de Turismo Gastronômico da Secretaria de Turismo do Estado).


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HOSPITALITY


VISITE SÃO PAULO

HOTELS AND THEIR SECRETS Guests of the Hotel Bourbon fighting the flab on the hotel’s treadmills have no idea the basement gym was once an air-raid shelter. On Av. Dr. Vieira de Carvalho, near Praça da Republica, the building was constructed in 1950. The Second World War had finished five years earlier, but the owner, Italian Countess Leonor de Camilis Spezzacalena, still traumatized by the Allied bombing of her homeland, asked for a bunker to be included in the plans to protect her against aerial attacks.

Photo: Bourbon Hotéis & Resorts

The structure was adapted in 1982 to house the Hotel Bourbon, and the shelter lay unused till 1990, when it became a piano bar. Since 1997 it has been a gym; one detail was preserved however: a covered entrance to an underground tunnel that is said to be an escape route to Praça da República, unaccessible today. Hotel Bourbon

Av. Dr. Vieira de Carvalho, 99 – República – São Paulo (11) 3337-2000 / 3337-1414 - www.bourbon.com.br 35

The Hotel Esplanada, built in 1923 and once deemed São Paulo’s most elegant hotel, also had an underground tunnel, although for another purpose. On Praça Ramos de Azevedo, the hotel was popular among actors and musicians starring at the Teatro Municipal, right opposite. To avoid being harassed by fans, the stars used to sneak through this passage to the backstage areas of the Municipal. The former Esplanada building has been occupied by mining conglomerate Votorantim and the tunnel has been closed.

Photo: Memoria Votorantim

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The L’Hotel Porto Bay, on Alameda Campinas, near Av. Paulista, is a small museum: its decor displays rare authentic works of the sixteenth, seventeenth and eighteenth, purchased at auction. An ormolu clock in the reception area, hand made in the eighteenth century by jewelers at the court of Louis XVI, welcomes guests. A large Flemish tapestry draws the eye, displayed at the top of the staircase. Woven in wool and silk in Brussels, in the sixteenth century, it measures 3.73 by 5 meters, it shows Mark Anthony and Octavian being introduced to Cleopatra. A barometer and thermometer from Provence (1767), a marble-topped commode, a gilt-backed console, a pair of armchairs and an eighteenth-century Venetian mirror complete the collection. The management has labeled these objets-d’art to satisfy the curiosity of the guests as to their provenance.

Photo: A-brasil

L’Hotel Porto Bay

Al. Campinas, 266 - Jardim Paulista – São Paulo (11) 2183-0500 www.portobay.com

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Another hotel displaying works of art to interest its guests is the Ca’d’Oro, on Rua Augusta. The relics were vouched for by a true connoisseur. Pietro Maria Bardi, the founder of São Paulo’s Art Museum (MASP) bought them along with canvases by Italian painter Vincenzo Irolli, including Vendemmia, and an Erard piano made in France in 1850. The Ca’d’Oro hotel opened its doors in 1956 and was so classy that until 1962 it did not allow men into the restaurant without a tie. Intending to reopen soon, the hotel closed temporarily on December 20, 2009 for refurbishments to be carried out by Brookfield Incorporações.

Photo: Jornal de Turismo

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HERITAGE


VISITE SÃO PAULO

ANIMALS IN THE CATHEDRAL “Hide, men are coming!” Acting on this warning, it would appear that armadillos, herons, toucans and lizards chose the Sé Cathedral to shelter from extinction. These species of Brazil’s fauna took to the tops of the columns in the Cathedral, right up in the vaulted ceilings of the small entrance hall. Most visitors and frequenters of this House of God and tourist attraction fail to spot them.


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It is not only the wild creatures that visitors are unaware of: the Cathedral has a crypt under the high altar. Its granite stairwells and columns, Carrara marble floor and Gothic architecture houses 30 mortuary chambers for São Paulo’s bishops and archbishops: 16 are occupied. The mortal remains of the Indian Tibiriçá; the Portuguese Empire’s Minister of Justice and Regent Diogo Antônio Feijó; and Father Bartolomeu de Gusmão, inventor of the balloon, the forerunner of the airplane, all lie in the crypt. The Sé Cathedral was consecrated on January 25, 1954, to celebrate the city’s fourth centenary: it was the brainchild of Dom Duarte Leopoldo e Silva, São Paulo’s first Archbishop. German architect Maximilian Emil Hehl, who also designed the Consolação Church, designed it. Most of the statuary sprang from the hands, hammers and chisels of Francisco Leopoldo e Silva, Dom Duarte’s brother, sculptor of the first nude to grace a Paulista mausoleum, in the Consolação Cemetery. The Sé Cathedral descends from the ancient Sé Church, founded in 1764 and demolished in 1911. Catedral da Sé

Pça. da Sé – Centro – São Paulo (11) 3107-6832 www.catedraldase.org.br

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MONUMENTAL BENCH Designed as if for some giant to take his rest on a huge scale. It was designed to pay tribute to Clube Atlético Paulistano, the first Brazilian soccer club to tour Europe, in 1925. The “Monumento às Vitórias Esportivas na Europa”, (“Monument to the Sporting Victories in Europe”) lies outside the club’s headquarters on Rua Honduras, in the Jardim América neighborhood.


Clube Paulistano commissioned the enormous bench from architect Wasth Rodrigues in 1925; however, it was only made in 1927 by sculptor Roque de Mingo. It was executed in brickwork, granite and bronze, with a high back and adornments in Brazilian colonial style. A plaque in the middle praises the team’s campaign in 1925: it boasts a column with an armillary sphere, or astrolabe— the symbol of the Kingdom of Portugal; it also bears the symbols of the Cross of Christ, the United Kingdom of Portugal and Brazil, the Empire and the Republic. The renowned Friedenreich, deemed by many the greatest Brazilian forward of all time, played for Paulistano. 43

The team set sail for Europe on a slow, tiring journey, in 1925. They swept all before them on the playing fields of Europe. They won nine of their ten games, scoring 30 goals and only letting in eight. In France they were dubbed “The Kings of Football.” Clube Atlético Paulistano no longer has a football pitch. Eight tennis courts were laid out on the site.


Banco Monumental

R. Honduras, 1400 – Jardim América – São Paulo www.saopauloantiga.com.br/banco-monumental

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TEA AND BRIOCHES

One of São Paulo’s most emblematic symbols owes everything to French hands. Jules Martin carried out the design of the Viaduto do Chá and presented the proposal to the Municipal Government around 1877. In the late nineteenth century the Anhangabaú Valley forced the inhabitants of the then capital of São Paulo Province to skirt round swamps and thickets of undergrowth if they wanted to frequent the city center. Everyone except the illustrious Baron of Tatuí wished there to be a viaduct over the valley. Such a construction would have obliged him to abandon his residence on Rua Direita. Two years after proposing a viaduct, Martin came up with the idea of replacing it by a boulevard: citizen pressure forced him to go back to his original plan. He suggested charging a toll to help pay for the cost of construction: the suggestion failed. Photo: Andre Stefano

Work began in 1888 and the Baron’s mansion was demolished. The Viaduto do Chá was only inaugurated, however, on November 6,1892—a day of celebration for Paulistanos, according to contemporary news reports. Rua Direita and Rua Barão de Itapetininga were festooned with flowers, as was the viaduct: bunting and lights also draped the construction. Jules Martins was born in France in 1832 and came to Brazil as a young man.After settling in Sorocaba he moved to São Paulo, opening the first lithograph workshop known to exist in Brazil in Rua Boa Vista. He was also a cartographer and produced the first printed Map of the Province of São Paulo. He died in 1908 at the age of 74. 45

THE RIVERS OF THE IPIRANGA MUSEUM As you climb the marble staircases of the Museu Paulista da Universidade de São Paulo (USP), better known as the Ipiranga Museum, you might be forgiven for thinking the glass amphorae of the handrail are merely for decoration. But they contain samples taken from the largest rivers of Brazil, explored and tamed by the Bandeirante groups of São Paulo state from 1500 to 1700. Photo: Andre Stefano

The first two amphorae were installed in 1928, and hold waters drawn from the four rivers on Brazil’s extremities. In one of them the waters of the Chuí and Oiapoque mingle (the northernmost and southernmost rivers of Brazil). In the other, samples of the Capibaribe and Javari sparkle (easternmost and westernmost rivers). A further sixteen amphorae were added in 1930 holding the waters of the Rivers Parnaíba, Tocantins, Paraíba, Madeira, Carioca, Paraná, Negro, Capibaribe, São Francisco, Paraguai, Amazonas, Uruguai, Jaguaribe, Piranhas-Açu, Doce and Tietê. Each one can hold approximately ten liters; the water was only changed once, in 1991. The amphorae are set in a bronze structure created by Belgian sculptor Adrien-Henri-Vital Van Emelen. The museum hides further surprises: old-fashioned devices for ironing clothes, and a cash till for example. Museu Paulista da USP

Parque da Independência – Ipiranga – São Paulo (11) 2065-8000 - www.mp.usp.br 46

NEXT STOP: THE CISTINE CHAPEL Should you find yourself waiting for a bus at the stop in Praça Cel. Cipriano de Moares, in the Lapa neighborhood, you will probably think you have traveled back in time. To the 1960s, to be precise. The bus stop actually takes the shape of a long shelter held up by a sturdy iron structure, set in concrete into the sidewalk. It was originally installed by the Municipal Collective Transport Company (Companhia Municipal de Transporte Coletivo, formerly CMTC). Photo: Andre Stefano

For many years these shelters were virtually the only urban structures in the capital. They were so much a part of the city squares and open spaces like the Vale do Anhangabaú that these spaces seemed to have included them in their designs. They began to be replaced in the 1970s, giving way to a range of designs. The one in Praça Coronel Cipriano de Moraes is probably the only one left standing—but for how long? What sets it apart is that someone has decided to decorate the interior with wallpaper to make you think you are under the frescoes of the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel or the Vatican Museum. 47


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SANTA RUSSA IN THE MONASTERY

Set into the first column on the right as you enter the Nossa Senhora da Assunção Basilica, part of the São Bento Monastery buildings, a saint greets the faithful. She stands out because she is an authentic Russian icon in true orthodox style. She is Nossa Senhora de Kasperovo (Kasperovskaya Previataya Bogoroditza), a Virgin Mary caressing the Boy Jesus’s face in a moment of tenderness. She measures 27 cm by 22 cm: unlike the original silver, she has been dressed in precious enamels, rubies and turquoises, as well as a cape of six thousand rare Pacific pearls. An oratory housing, stamped with the twin-headed eagle, symbol of Imperial Russia, bears out the authenticity of her origins. On the bottom, the words “Da loja da fábrica imperial” ; behind the image, the year 1893 shows the date of manufacture.


How did a Russian icon end up in the São Bento Monastery? Dom Martinho Johnson, OSB, of the Paulista History Academy, speaking at the December 1985 meeting of Oblates, stated that the icon “was donated to Dom Miguel Kruse [Abbot of São Bento] by a Russian official in gratitude for the help granted by the Abbot to refugees from the Russian Revolution...” 49


Basílica Nossa Senhora da Assunção Mosteiro de São Bento Largo São Bento – Centro – São Paulo (11) 3328-8799 www.mosteiro.org.br

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THE GERMAN CEMETERY The Consolação Cemetery, inaugurated in 1858, is not São Paulo’s oldest cemetery, as many people believed. Thirty years previously the Cemitério de Parelheiros (Parelheiros, or German Colony, Cemetery) was created by a group of 200 German immigrants, most of whom were Protestants, who arrived in the Province of São Paulo in 1827 to found an agricultural settlement. Dom Pedro I donated the land. The cemetery was closed during the Second World War due to a lack of maintenance. It was completely decommissioned in 1996. German organizations and associations strove to recover the cemetery, and it reopened on November 18, 2000. It was classified a Special Cultural Preservation Region (Zona Especial de Preservação Cultural—ZEPEC) by the City Hall in 2004. And yet despite its German origins the cemetery lies in a street with an Oriental name: Sachio Nakau, 28. Photo: Andre Stefano

Remember that until the late nineteenth century the dead were buried inside churches—at least Catholics were. Other religions were sent to the Enforcados Cemetery in the Liberdade neighborhood. However this fate was not reserved for Julio Frank, a German who arrived in Brazil in 1831 at the age of twenty-two: he became a law professor at the Largo São Francisco Law School. When he died at the age of thirty-two, his students refused to allow him to be buried in the Enforcados, burying him instead in the Law School inner courtyard, where his tomb was preserved. 51

FROM THE “PÁTEO” TO THE WORLD


Very few people know that the portal with a bell, the entrance to the Páteo do Colégio church is called the Marco da Paz, or Landmark of Peace. Nor that it was designed by an immigrant, Gaetano Brancati Luigi, who was born in Italy during the Second World War. Having survived every threat, and the fear of attacks, he was eight years old when he heard the bells ring out in Europe for the end of the War in 1945, in a counterpoint to the thousands of voices joyfully acclaiming the peace at last.

The twelve-year-old Gaetano emigrated first to Argentina, thentoBrazil,in1949.Onedayin1999hewaswalkingbythe Páteo do Colégio when he noticed that the church had no bell. With the support of the city’s Commercial Association (Associação Comercial de São Paulo-ACSP) of which he is a member, he procured a bell for the historic church’s spire, which became the Peace Landmark Monument— Monumento Marco da Paz. Since that time, the partnership has spread his proposal for peace around the world.The bell has tolled in a further three towns of the state of São Paulo. And overseas, the Peace Landmark bell has rung in towns in Mexico, Argentina, Uruguay, and China; it is planned to install it in Israel, Geneva and Barcelona. 52

CURIOSITIES OF NEW YORK One recent trend in praising São Paulo’s modernity, effervescence and cosmopolitanism is to compare the city with New York. Could that be why our very own Santosborn Patriarch of Independence, José Bonifácio de Andrada e Silva so enjoys being there? A bronze statue of him graces the corner of Sixth Avenue and West 42nd Street, having been inaugurated in the presence of the then Mayor of New York, Robert F. Wagner and Brazil’s Ambassador to the United States, João Carlos Muniz, on April 22, 1955. It was a tribute to New York from the government of Brazil, the sort of gesture of good neighborliness that was quite common at that time. A competition was held to determine which artist the work would be commissioned from: the sculptor José Otávio Correia Lima (1878-1974) was chosen. The work is currently enjoying a privileged position: Nikola Tesla Corner, in upscale Bryant Park, once a place where drugs were bought and consumed, now—thanks to the work of a special commission—a prestigious area. The New York Public Library on fifth Avenue is over on the other side of the park.


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In São Paulo / Photo: Andre Stefano

Back in São Paulo, it was only in 1972, in the context of the celebrations of the 150th anniversary of Independence that a monument to Bonifácio was inaugurated in Praça Patriarca, , created by Alfredo Ceschiatti. Architect Paulo Mendes da Rocha totally remodeled the Square in 2002. 54

CHILD’S PLAY


VISITE SÃO PAULO

LAUGHING, SUNNY CHILDREN In a city like São Paulo children increasingly have nowhere to play. Take away the odd trip to a park or public garden with their parents, what is left for children is video games, tablets and the like. Pretty soon children will no longer know what it feels like to go barefoot on the grass or in the dirt. The Mamusca project in the Pinheiros neighborhood aims to bring back the pure fun of playing and messing around for kids of all shapes, sizes and ages. There is a back yard and a rumpus room where children can run on the grass, climb trees, tend the plants in the orchard or play in the sandpit. They can also try out a whole range of toys, fabrics, stones and other surprising elements to stimulate their creativity.


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Everything happens under the keen eye of the “players”. If the children want, their parents and the monitors can join in their play. The younger toddlers, from six months to three years old, learn from artists, pedagogues, their parents and grandparents how to play with other children. On Saturdays the whole family comes together for breakfast or lunch, after which there is a special activity for everyone.

Photo:Mamusca

Mamusca - Rua Joaquim Antunes, 778 - Pinheiros R. Joaquim Antunes, 778 – Pinheiros – São Paulo (11) 2362-9303 www.mamusca.com.br

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PAULISTANO TRIBES


VISITE SÃO PAULO

THE PARELHEIROS REGION IS AN INDIAN VILLAGE Guarani Indian villages; a German settlement; Japanese communities; the Afro-Brazilian culture; anthroposophic doctrine; Augustinian monks—they have all set up their ocas (or communal huts) less than 50 km from São Paulo’s central Sé Square. Some three hundred Indians live peacefully in the Krukutu village; the AséYlê do Hozoouane Afro-Brazilian Cultural Society, represents the black community through its dance traditions and martial art-forms capoeira and maculelê; there are roughly 850 Indians living in the TenondéPorã village, where they celebrate their religious rites; the Paulus Anthroposophic Center; the Holy Ground of the Messianic Church of Brazil (Solo Sagrado da Igreja Messiânica do Brasil) stretching out over a 327,000 m2 area and dominating one of the region’s most beautiful landscapes; the Capela de São Sebastião, built in 1904, housing a statue of Saint Sebastian sculpted by a Guarani Indian; the Cemitério da Colônia, (or Settlement Cemetery), the first in the city, built by German immigrants in the nineteenth century; Florarte a farm on which the influential Japanese community grows ornamental plants and shimeji mushrooms, are all found in the Capivair-Monos and Bororé-Colonia Environmental Protection Areas of the Parelheiros district.

Photo: Igreja Messianica

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To complete the blend, the Curucutu Nucleus in the Serra do Mar mountain range National Park offers the Mirante (or Belvedere) forest trail whence you can see all the way to the coastline of São Paulo state; the Tagaste Eco Park, set up by Augustinian monks, holds environmental education activities; thousands of migrating birds flock to the Paiquerê Farm from September to March to breed; and at the Marina SOS Levi canoes and inflatable dinghies can be hired to explore the Billings reservoir. There is also the Colônia Crater, 3.6 kilometers in diameter, where a meteorite crashed to earth 35 million years ago; and there are also more than 30 waterfalls and a vast tract of Atlantic Rainforest to explore. Posto de Atendimento ao Turista (PAT)

Av. Senador Teotônio Vilela, 8000 - Cidade Dutra - São Paulo (11) 5925-2736 www.prefeitura.sp.gov.br

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JARAGUÁ PEAK

The ramshackle Indian town of Aldeia do Jaraguá-Itu does its best to overcome the neglect of authorities and the encroachments of outsiders. It is split down the middle by the metaled Jaraguá tourist highway, forming upper and lower sections. The latter section is much older—a historic settlement where gold was formerly mined. That is where village leader Jandira (Jandira Augusta Venâncio) and her husband Joaquim Augusto Martins live with their children, grand-children, and sons- and daughters-in-law. In the upper section, the village known as Tekoa Payau has not yet been legally defined on behalf of the indigenous tribes folk. One hundred and twenty-five families, some 650 Indians, live there. Their spiritual and social leader is Chief and Healer Guirá-Pejó (José Fernandes), who guides the destiny of the village, aided by a representative council mainly made up of elders. The village preserves the Guarani tongue and ancient customs, and ekes out a livelihood from the sales of their crafts. It was Afonso Sardinha, a Portuguese itinerant explorer, or bandeirante, Indian hunter and dealer, who first opened the forest around the Pico do Jaraguá, where he found traces of gold in the Itaí creek in the early seventeenth century.

Photo:Chensivuan

The gold ran out in the nineteenth century, leaving behind pits and grooves in the rocks, metal sieves and the ruins of Afonso Sardinha’s mansion. These places and objects can now be seen and visited: Jaraguá State Park was created in 1961, and was protected by CONDEPHAAT (São Paulo State’s Council for the Defense of the Historical, Artistic, Archaeological and Tourist Heritage) in 1983. 63

UNITED NATIONS OF THE LUZ NEIGHBORHOOD Every Tuesday and Thursday, groups of Bolivians, Chinese, Brazilians, and Africans, each in their on way and with their unique customs, get up early in order to care for their minds and bodies through physical activity. To do this, they seek out the Parque da Luz.


Parque da Luz

R. Ribeiro de Lima – Bom Retiro – São Paulo (11) 3227-3535 www.prefeitura.sp.gov.br

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BOARD OF DIRECTORS - MANAGEMENT BOARD 2013 - 2014 CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD Juan Pablo De Vera Barbieri FIRST VICE-PRESIDENT Roland de Bonadona VICE-PRESIDENT, FINANCES Raul Sulzbacher VICE PRESIDENTS Carlos Eduardo Hue Chieko Aoki Guilherme Paulus Orlando de Souza Regina Paiva Noronha Rui Manuel Oliveira William José Périco ADVISORY BOARD Alberto de Camargo Vidigal Altino João de Barros Alvaro Aoas Annie Morrissey Caio Calfat Caio Carvalho Eduardo Sanovicz Ênio Vergeiro Ibrahim George Tahtouh Luis Paulo Luppa Roosevelt Hamam Tarcisio Gargioni Valter Patriani STAFF Cristina Simões Elenice Zaparoli Elisabete Sorrentino Flavia Taulois Gilmara Machado Keila Moreira Kelly Oliveira Sara Souza EXECUTIVE PRESIDENT Toni Sando de Oliveira JANUARY 2015 2

COORDINATION

Toni Sando de Oliveira / Executive President

RESEARCH, CHOICE OF MATERIAL WRITER AND EDITOR Zedu Lima (José Edvardo P. Lima) / Journalist

GENERAL SUPERVISOR

Gilmara Machado / Communications Manager - SPCVB

GRAPHIC DESIGN

Giovanna Favero a Creative Assistant - SPCVB Fernanda Ota / Creative Assistant - SPCVB Mayara Moraes / Creative Intern - SPCVB

CREDITS/PHOTOS

Andre Stefano A-brasil Bel Ascenso Blog O bom garfo Bourbon Hotéis & Resorts Brookfield Incorporações Chensivuan Douglas Nascimento Fabiano F. Albertoni Fernanda Forato Frank Powolny Glaucia Garcia de Carvalho Guia da Semana GQ Online Igreja Messianica José Cordeiro Jornal Turismo Mamusca Memoria Votorantim Reinaldo Meneguim Revista Espresso Ricardo Matsukawa

COPYRIGHT

Fundação 25 de Janeiro São Paulo Convention & Visitors Bureau

Fundação 25 de Janeiro | São Paulo Convention & Visitors Bureau Alameda Ribeirão Preto, 130, 12º andar, Bela Vista, São Paulo-SP, 01331-000, Brasil, Tel.: 55 11 3736-0600 | [email protected] | visitesaopaulo.com saopaulotudodebom |

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