September 2010

Summer/Fall September 2010

Lost In Peru Explore the Dominican Republic’s North Coast Disabled Explorers Integrated Cookset Showdown

September 2010

Volume 1, Number 1

8

Explore the Dominican Republic’s North Coast by Abbie Mood Looking for a getaway off the beaten path and away from the maddening crowd? The Dominican Republic’s North Coast may be just what the doctor ordered.

Front cover: USGS Benchmark on the Appalachian Trail Back Cover: Sun sets over the Hunter-Fryingpan Wilderness Area, Colorado

10

Lost in Peru by Jeanne Fu

Sometimes the least well-planned trips offer the greatest adventure, although not always what you’re expecting.

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Departments Letter From the Editor Canine Corner Exposed Seen, Read, Heard

Places

Bellingham, Washington

People

Lance Blair of Disabled Explorers

Things

Stove Showdown Waterproofing Standards Demystified New and Noteworthy Gear Wetsuits for Surfing 101

Stars and the moon glow over Great Sand Dunes National Park, Colorado

Letter from the Editor Adventure Insider Magazine has been a long time coming. I launched the website AdventureInsider.com in 2007 and have spent the past three years sharing my experiences, adventure travel tips, and product reviews with a continually-growing group of contributors and readers. Today we extend the Adventure Insider idea with the launch of Adventure Insider Magazine. I started Adventure Insider with a group of friends that share a love of travel and the outdoors. Our goal is to bring you information about adventure travel worldwide that you won’t find in mainstream travel magazines or travel guides. Now, with Adventure Insider Magazine, we continue to bring you our featured articles, honest gear reviews, and trustworthy skills publishing quarterly in one beautiful package. We sincerely hope that you will enjoy reading Adventure Insider Magazine as much as we’ve enjoyed putting it together. We also welcome your thoughts and feedback as we develop and grow. Leave comments, send us email, and tell us what you think, good or bad. You are not just our readers but the reason we developed AdventureInsider.com and the Adventure Insider Magazine in the first place. Let’s share the journey as we explore lesser known trails, rivers, cities, and all the adventure there is to find on this great planet. It’s our pleasure to share our experiences with you and I look forward to sharing yours. Please visit us on Facebook (http://www.facebook.com/adventureinsider) or Twitter (@adventureinside) or just drop us an email. We look forward to hearing from you! Erick Pound Editor-in-Chief [email protected]

4 Adventure Insider Magazine •September 2010

EDITORIAL editor-in-chief ERICK POUND EXECUTIVE EDITOR ELIZABETH COX ASSOCIATE EDITOR SHANE WILLIAMS K-9 EDITOR NIXON BUSINESS OFFICE ADVENTURE INSIDER MEDIA, LLC 4465 NORTHPARK DR. SUITE 100 COLORADO SPRINGS, CO 80907 Adventure Insider Magazine is published by Adventure Insider Media, LLC on a quarterly basis in March, June, September and December. Although Adventure Insider Media, LLC strives for accuracy and confirms information at the time of publishing we cannot be held responsible for errors. While participating in any outdoor or recreational activity you do so at your own risk. Adventure Insider Media, LLC cannot be held liable for any damages, injury or death that occurs as a result of your participation, even in such cases of error or omission. Copyright© Adventure Insider Media, LLC, 2010. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without prior consent is strictly prohibited.

Contributors

Abbie Mood

Jeanne Fu

Abbie lives in Southern California and, in addition to being a freelance writer, teaches preschool Special Education. Originally from Delaware, she moved to California after graduating from the University of Delaware with a Bachelor’s degree in early childhood development. Abbie earned a Master’s in special education from Cal State Fullerton while she developed a love for the outdoors and exploring. She has been an avid runner for more than ten years and has more recently taken up rock climbing. Abbie takes every break from teaching as an opportunity to get out and go (often with pups Daisy and Sadie in tow). Check out Abbie’s adventures on AbbieMood.com and keep and eye out for her soon-to-be re-launched travel sneakersandsuitcases. com, or on Twitter @AbbieMood!

Jeanne sufferers from a chronic case of wanderlust and is constantly in search of the next adventure. She has bouldered in France, climbed crags in California, China, and Colombia, surfed shore breaks and point breaks in Costa Rica and Peru, and trekked mountain trails in South Africa and rain forests in Argentina.

Abbie is an intern at the Matador Network, the budget expert for Planet Eye Traveler online magazine, and Managing Editor for Barefoot-Running.us. She has also contributed to BootsnAll, and Adventure World magazine.

Born and bred in New York, NY, she spent summers in Shanghai – her parents’ hometown – and spent extensive time abroad, studying philosophy and languages in Scotland, India, Germany, and England. A former Fulbright Student Scholar, she earned her B.A. in Philosophy from Colgate University and M.Phil in Philosophy from University College London. She speaks fluent German and Shanghainese, decent Spanish, aspires to brush up on her (now) very rusty French and Italian, and learn Portuguese to prepare for her upcoming surfing and climbing adventure in Rio de Janiero, Brazil. 5

Canine Corner Our intention with this column was to offer pet gear reviews and share stories of our own canine (mis-)adventures with our well-travelled and sweet Chocolate Lab, Nixon (and his four-legged companions). Two weeks before this issue was finalized our K-9 editor, Nixon was diagnosed with cancer. Canine Osteosarcoma, or bone cancer, is a very aggressive and painful cancer that originated in Nixon’s right hind leg. Five days after the diagnosis Nixon had his leg amputated. While this will impact his ability to hike, backpack, and swim it will not diminish his love for the outdoors. Nixon will be undergoing chemotherapy over the next few months, but sadly, the prognosis for this type of cancer is still quite bleak. Nixon’s a trouper, though, and we’ll all fight this together. We would be remiss if we didn’t take this opportunity to encourage those of you with pets to look into pet insurance. Not surprisingly, the cost of the amputation and chemotherapy is astronomical. And, although Elizabeth and I had considered purchasing pet insurance as recently as a few months ago, we put it off. A big mistake we are now regretting. Learn from our mistake, if you have a pet, look into pet insurance. That said, our first concern is getting Nixon back in good shape and that includes getting him back on the trail and in the water. We’ll be sure to keep you updated on his progress.


Exposed

Hiking Great Sand Dunes National Park in Colorado, I was nearing the top of a dune when I paused for a break and turned around to notice I had all but missed sunset. In spite of that, I was able to get a great shot of the subtle pastels the setting sun left behind. Photo: Nate Burgess Nikon D200, 17mm, f18, 3s

This little guy was checking us out after a trek in Costa Rica Photo: Elizabeth Cox Nikon D200, 105mm, f5.3, 1/30s

Explore the Dominican Republic’s North Coast by Abbie Mood

The North Coast of the Dominican Republic is quickly gaining a reputation for being one of the next big adventure spots. With everything from diving to hiking to kiteboarding and windsurfing, it’s easy to see why. On a recent trip sponsored by the Ministry of Tourism, I was able to experience some of these activities firsthand. The Samaná Peninsula is a great starting place. It’s roughly a 3.5 hour drive from the airport in Santo Domingo, or a 2.5 hour drive from the airport in Puerto Plato. There are quite a few all-inclusive resorts and a couple bars in the town of Samaná on the southern part of the peninsula, but if you are looking for something more low-key, I would suggest staying in Las Terrenas on the northern part. Las Terrenas is becoming more developed, but still has some good hotel options, great restaurants, and public beaches if you want to hang out with the locals. Besides the miles and miles of beautiful beaches, there are two main attractions in this area - Salto de Limón and Los Haitises National Park. The Limón waterfall is just 1 km away from Las Terrenas, and can be reached by horseback or by hiking the (roughly) 4 km trail through the Dominican vegetation and across crystal clear streams. If you decide to go by horseback, I Limón waterfall would recommend Parada Basilio y Ramona (Tel. 829-6614137 or email [email protected]). Each person through mangroves, and past Cayo de los Pájaros, where gets a horse and a guide will lead you to the 170 foot wahundreds of birds have made their homes. There are several terfall where you can swim and cool off. We also found a caves throughout the park, etched with pictographs from the smaller waterfall along the way that had no people at all and Tainos Indians, the original inhabitants of the area. There would be great for spending some time swimming alone. are several isolated beaches along the coast of the park that There were a couple of other groups at the Salto de Limon, you could stop at, or hang out with the fisherman before but the swimming hole is so big that there was plenty of they head back into town to sell their catch. room for everyone to take a dip. After our ride, we had a traditional Dominican Republic meal of red beans and rice, We visited Los Haitises with Amilka Tours, who will pick vegetables, and tostones (smashed and fried plantains). The you up from your hotel in Las Terrenas and take you to their ride and lunch costs roughly $20-25 USD. dock. If you would rather get there yourself, they are located in the town of Sanchez. They also provide a traditional Los Haitises National Park, a protected virgin forest with Dominican meal upon returning, for a total for $45 USD, little road access (it is possible to access with a 4 wheel drive including transportation. vehicle from the south), is best reached by a 20-30 minute ride across the Samaná Bay by boat. It’s becoming a more Cabarete is the outdoor activity capital of the Dominican popular destination, but the number of tourists is limited by Republic, and is roughly 2 hours northwest of the Samaná the government, so it’s unlikely to be crowded. Peninsula. With both native Dominicans and a high population of expats from all over the world, this is the place to The park looks like something from a movie, with white be outside all day and grab a beer at a beachside bar aftersandy beaches, lush green forests, and rocky cliffs. Ride wards. 8 Adventure Insider Magazine •September 2010

If you walk the beach at Cabarete you will see windsurfers and kiteboarders everywhere – both in the water and on the beach. You can stop pretty much anywhere along the main drag and rent a board or get a lesson. If you want more information about kiteboarding, visit Cabarete Kiteboarding. If windsurfing is more your style, visit Cabarete Windsurfing for all the details you need. If you are looking for adventure, this is it. Start with your life jacket and helmet and follow the guide into the forest and across streams until you arrive at the first fall. They get your confidence up by giving you a ladder for the first one, but after that its rope climbing and pulling yourself up against the rushing water (with some help from the guides if you need it). Once you get to the last waterfall, the only way back down is to jump off 25 foot cliffs and slide down natural water shoots. We went with a guide from Iguana Mama, located in the middle of Cabarete, who will pick you up from your hotel in Cabarete and guide you up the 27 Falls for $79 USD (not including tax). Iguana Mama also leads eco-responsible tours for those interested in mountain biking, hiking & ziplining, diving & snorkeling, rafting & kayaking, and horseback riding. Just (approximately) 10 miles west of Cabarete, Sosúa is it’s own town, but with all the action in Cabarete, it An eel poses for the camera makes sense to catch a ride to get to the nearby diving. I had never been snorkeling before, so I wasn’t quite sure what to expect. We went out with North Coast Diving, who were very knowledgeable and helpful for a first-time snorkeler, but also have a variety of trips for serious divers. We stopped at the Three Rocks area and jumped in. As soon as I put my head underwater I saw all kinds of ocean life –

tiny yellow fish, blue striped fish, coral, sea plants. I was so glad to have an underwater camera. The guide even dove down and snapped a picture of an eel that was hiding from us! We went to another site and saw tons of fish there, too. It was definitely an amazing experience. The 3 hour snorkeling cruise is $45 USD and includes equipment, snacks, a guide, a fish identification chart, and the chartered boat with a canopy to get out of the sun. North Coast Diving will pick you up in Cabarete for $15 USD round-trip. What you need to know Now is a great time to visit the North Coast because even though it’s gaining a reputation for adventure activities, it is not yet as crazy as some of the beach destinations like Punta Cana. Most tourists visit between December and April, so unless you like the crowds, I would plan a visit between May-October. The rainy season is technically from May/June-October/November, but the North Coast doesn’t really get hurricanes like other Caribbean countries, so if you can handle on-again, off-again rain, you should be fine. Visa fee - There is currently a $10 visa fee to pay upon your arrival at the airport, but no fee to leave. Currency - The Dominican Republic peso and the American dollar can both be used. Major credit cards are usually accepted. Water - Drink bottled water or bring a purification system. Depending on your hotel, you may be able to drink their tap water, but it’s probably best to be safe and go with bottled. A great website with any other information you might need to know is Go Dominican Republic. For more photos, check out my Adventure Insider photo essay! While the trip was sponsored by the Ministry of Tourism, any opinions expressed are my own.

9

Lost in Peru by Jeanne Fu

The plan: a seemingly simple-to-navigate map that outlined hike and bike paths along the Sacred Valley including the villages of Ollantaytambo, Urubamba, Maras, Moray, and Salinas, a rusty mountain bike (which would have made my brother’s sixteen year old BMX look like a Bianchi Pista ) I rented from the local hostel owner in Ollantaytambo for the bargain price of $15 a day, a rather ambitious plan to mountain bike to Maras, the ruins of Moray and continue onward to uncover the salt pans of Salinas and me, a native New Yorker and avid solo traveler, armed with a decent grasp of Español and not the slightest bit of mountain biking experience. On day 6 of my Peru adventure, I arrived in the village of Ollantaytambo, located at the northwest end of the Incas’ ancestral homeland in the Rio Urubamba Valley, popularly known as El Valle Sagrado (the Sacred Valley). The Sacred Valley is fed by rivers which descend through adjoining valleys and gorges, and contains numerous archaeological remains and villages, most notably the Inca citadels of Pisac and Ollantaytambo Dominated by a massive Inca fortress above, Ollantaytambo is the best surviving example of Inca city planning; it has an orthogonal layout with four longitudinal streets crossed by seven parallel streets (think New York City’s grid street plan, only on a much smaller scale, and with narrow cobblestone streets). It also serves as a ubiquitous stopover in a quiet town for weary travelers en route to catch trains arriving from and departing to Aguas Calientes, better known as Machu Picchu Pueblo.

Chaska Wasi, a lovely lodge with basic rooms, electric showers (a must for those cold Andean nights!), and much to my surprise, bicycles for rent. To prepare for the next day’s mountain biking adventures, I treated myself to an elegant fried Peruvian chicken dinner, two glasses of Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon, and a Pisco cocktail at Kusicoylloy, a stylish underground café adorned with golden décor, a tempting wine list, high culinary standards, and a convenient location offering views of the Incan ruins. The next morning, I set off for Moray. Admittedly, the journey to Moray from Ollantaytambo was itself an adventure, contrary to what my guide book had to say about the whole affair: “Refreshingly off the beaten path, though not that challenging to reach. Catch one of the frequent buses(combi) from Urubamba’s bus terminals to Chinchero . Ask driver to drop you off at the turnoff for the road to Maras. Taxis usually wait at this turnoff to drive tourists to Moray.”

To get to Urubamba, I rode a shared taxi (collectivo) with my mountain bike, helmet, and air pump crammed in the boot. Urubamba might best be described by the following: “an unappealing but necessary transit hub of little historical interest; it’s surrounded by beautiful countryside and makes a convenient base from which to explore the extraordinary Salinas and terracing of Moray”. One Maras-bound A set of sunken terraces - 60 meters bus and Moray-bound private wide and up to 15 meters below the levtaxi later, I finally arrived at the el of surrounding terraces - start south ruins of Moray. The impresof Ollantaytambo’s Plaza de Armas, sively deep amphitheater-like stretching all the way to the Urubamba terracing of Moray is indeed a River, about 700 meters. After having fascinating spectacle. Differexplored Ollantaytambo’s extensive agrient levels of concentric terraces cultural terraces, which start at the bot- The author with her rented bike are carved into a huge earthen tom of the valleys and climb up the surbowl that appear like modern rounding hills, I schlepped my 80 liter pack through town in crop circles, ironic considering the use of the terraces. search of a hostel according to my usual method of selection: leaf through the Lonely Planet guide, and then head over to I should mention that I was warned by my taxi driver en the nearest recommendation. Unfortunately, said hostel was route to Moray not to attempt to bike to the salt pans of fully booked, so the schlepping continued until I reached Salinas from Moray due to the steep and somewhat un10 Adventure Insider Magazine •September 2010

kept nature of the trails but should instead combine a visit to Moray with Salinas via taxicab; However, being proud, stubborn, and cynical (quintessential New York traits), promptly ignored him, assuming that he mistook me for a typical American tourist and therefore tried to rip me off for cash. I parked my bike outside the Moray archaeological site and was greeted by a friendly and helpful guide, Jose, who gave me a tour of the Inca ruins, explaining the significance of the enormous terraced circular depressions –the largest of which is about 30 m (98 ft) deep – and how they The terraces of Moray were used as agricultural and spiritual zones by the Incas. He also helped me to navigate the map that outlined the path to Salinas from Moray, confirming that there was indeed a trail (camineto) in the back roads of the Andes that one could take that would lead directly to the extensive terracing salt areas of Salinas, bypassing the rather unpleasant asphalt road that must be shared with vehicles headed to Maras. He instructed me to turn left at a ‘blue sign post,’ although, given my elementary grasp of Spanish, I mostly understood ‘blue’ (azul) something and nodded as he pointed to a bright blue spot in the distance, on the left hand side of the road. As I set off for the bright blue spot across the distance, I recall another American tourist, fresh off the bus, saying to me, ‘Wow, you must be real spontaneous and adventurous – setting off by yourself on a bike into the mountains like that. You go, girl!’ Spontaneous – or incredibly stupid, as I had realized shortly after setting off that I was running low on water and was crap at reading maps or orienteering myself, and probably should have taken a compass – or better yet a guide – along with me.

The first fifteen minutes of riding seemed straightforward enough, although not particularly scenic, as I cycled down a dusty, narrow asphalt road with passing trucks and cars. After passing by a number of barn-like doors and sign posts on my downhill ride, I began to lose sight of the bright blue landmark that indicated the turnoff to reach the back roads, and began to worry. Even I, as directionally challenged as I am, realized that something was not quite right and the road on which I was riding would simply lead me back to Maras, out of the way to the salt pans of Salinas. Numerous attempts to ask locals about the best way to get back on track to the Salinas-bound camineto were met with confused faces and incomprehensible Spanish/ Quechuan (the language of the indigenous people of the Andes), with fingers pointed in all sorts of directions – abajo (down there!), izquierda (to the left!) derecha (to the right!), derecho (keep going straight!). At least all confirmed that the road I was on did indeed lead back to Maras, and that my best bet was to cycle back towards Moray to orient myself. As so I did, after about 2 hours of riding, feeling pangs of defeat, dehydration, and hunger. On the way back to Moray, I spotted something blue, but was too paranoid at this point to trust my own instincts. So instead I sat right below the blueish thing and munched on the lunch consisting of an apple and empanada I had brought with me while I gathered my thoughts and resolved, reluctantly, to return to Moray and admit to Jose that I had somehow gotten lost. Still defeated and dehydrated but no longer hungry, I rode back on the asphalt road to Moray, running into a young 11

local boy on the way. I showed him the now-not-sosimple-to-navigate-map and he confirmed the existence of a camineto that bypassed the asphalt roads but delivered some not-so-pleasant news: there was not only a camineto, but a network of them – quite complex and convoluted to navigate, and using the trails to get to Salinas and then Urubamba would alone take several hours. The problem was that I only had about a couple to spare, as I had to get back to Ollantaytambo in the evening to catch a Macchu Picchu-bound train. When I had reached the ruins of Moray for the second time that day, Jose, my guide, was quite surprised not only to see me again but also to hear that I had trouble locating the turnoff, which he confirmed was indeed the bright blueish sign post under which I had lunched. I then relayed the story about the intricate network of caminetos that the young boy had told me, and Jose’s response, though somewhat laughable in hindsight, struck a bit of fear in my heart at the time: ‘It’s easy – just take the one in the middle. That will lead you to Salinas. Actually, maybe you should just bike back to Maras and then head to Salinas from there so that you don’t get lost again.’ Again, the determined and somewhat stubborn New Yorker in me resolved Vidal takes the author’s bike for a spin to find this elusive camineto to see the incredible salt pans of Salinas before I could throw in my bike helmet and call it a day, though the lack of time and increasingly complicated nature of the route was beginning to worry me at this point, New Yorker or not. Back on the asphalt road again, I was enthralled to discover that turning left at the blueish sign post thing did indeed lead to a dirt road winding through the Andes. The feeling of autonomy and ecstasy that accompanied the ride through the Andean Mountains was inspiring, and suddenly defeat had washed away, transforming itself into my second wind. This relief was short-lived however, and the trouble began (although arguably, it probably began with the renting of 12 Adventure Insider Magazine •September 2010

the bike in the first place) when said dirt road led to many dirt roads curving through the mountainside and Jose’s suggestion, ‘take the middle one’ no longer seemed applicable; there were over half a dozen paths and not a soul in sight. Things only worsened an hour later, when I had run out of water and cell phone reception and realized that I had just carried my bicycle up and down the dirt road in a circle, passing by the same familiar puddle of water in an otherwise arid Andean landscape. The sun was getting closer to setting and my time was running out. Sweaty, cold, thirsty and tired from lugging that damned bike up and down the trails in search of any sign of life, I recall having a minute-long panic attack as I tried desperately to retrace my route back and plan the next best course of action. Although I could make out Moray and Maras far in the distance, the grade and complexity of the trails made it difficult for me to cut across to where I had come from. I was no longer concerned with seeing those silly salt pans, but just wanted to get back to Maras before dark and subsequently catch a cab to Ollantaytambo to make my Macchu Picchu train. After hiking back up the path with my bike in tow, I came across a remote Quechuan farm, out of the reach of motorized vehicles, and ran across the field leaving the bike behind so as not to do too much damage to their farmland although still wearing my helmet attempting to communicate in notso-composed Spanish about my plight to get back to Maras in time to reach Macchu Picchu. The Quechuan farmer reacted more kindly than I deserved, replying in a rather relaxed voice, all things considered: ‘Ah Maras? That’s easy – it’s just over there’ and offered me some homemade liquor. Certainly I had never encountered this kind of quaint hospitality back in New York (typically, most natives (or at least I) would simply point tourists in the opposite direction of where they wanted to go, let alone be so kind as to offer

them a dirty martini). Although I could have used a drink, I politely declined and admitted my shameful lack of navigation skills ‘Yes, I have heard that it’s easy from a few people now, but I seem to be having quite a time finding this route – would you please show me the way back?,’ as I offered him 20 soles ($7) and he offered the help of his son – a sweet young boy named Vidal to accompany me back to Maras. Vidal, eighteen years old and aspiring to study engineering in Cusco, had never met an American before me, and politely pointed out where I should have headed north instead of south to reach Salinas which as it turns out is right at the puddle I’ve seen all too many times. I laughed at myself a little and admitted that I had suspected that was the point where things had all gone wrong. By now, I had buried any desire to see Salinas so deep that those salt pans were simply dead to me, and I was thrilled and relieved to be greeted by goats and locals in their stylish Bowler hats as Vidal led me safely back to the town of Maras, where he helped arrange a cab for me to Ollantaytambo. Leafing through Lonely Planet 10 months later, I can’t help but chuckle to myself when reading:

‘From Moray it is supposedly possible to continue walking to Salinas about 6km away and then downward to the Rio Urubamba, which can fill a long but satisfying day. Ask the guard in Moray to point out the faint and not well-used trail, as it can be very hard to find. Most locals recommend backtracking to Maras first.’ Adventurer or not, stubbornness and a lack of preparation might best be left behind on such expeditions. But always pack an open mind, some local language (and map-reading) skills, adequate water supply, a compass, and faith in yourself and others. And although I will return to El Valle Sagrado (Sacred Valley) to pay homage to the salt gods of Salinas, I might take the beaten track (and path of prudence) the second time around and hire a taxi driver to take me to the terraced Inca salt fields on the way back from Moray. Or better yet, bring along a friend with far superior mountain biking and navigation skills than I. And the next time a lost New York City tourist stops me in the street for directions, I’ll give her the Quechuan treatment (well, maybe minus the dirty martini offer).

Fried chicken provides ample fuel for adventure 13

Spotlight: Bellingham, Washington by Abbie Mood

Bellingham, Washington is a growing city that has been able to keep the smaller town charm while offering some really exciting adventures. Being in the northwest corner of Washington state between Bellingham Bay and the North Cascades Mountain range makes Bellingham great for both water and mountain adventures. Bellingham has received awards for everything from best paddling destination (Outside Magazine in August 2006) to 7th best locale for mountain biking (Mountain Bike magazine in June 2001) to being named one of the top adventure cities in the United States by National Geographic Adventure. On your next (or first!) visit to Bellingham, be sure to head up to Mt. Baker. A 30-45 minute drive up Mt. Baker highway (Highway 542) from the city of Bellingham will get you to gorgeous hiking or skiing, depending on the season. When I went towards the end of July, Artist Point had just opened due to the walls of snow along the road and I actually got to do a bit of sledding. With over 200 miles of trails, there is definitely something for everyone from the beginner to the more advanced hiker (http://www.fs.fed.us/ r6/mbs/about/mbrd.shtml). After a day at Mt. Baker, fill up on some authentic Italian food at Milano’s Restaurant (http://www.MilanoRestaurant.us) in Glacier, just off of 14 Adventure Insider Magazine •September 2010

Highway 542, or grab a beer at North Fork Brewery (http:// northforkbrewery.com), also just off Highway 542. The North Fork Brewery, also known as a beer shrine and Wedding Chapel, makes hand-crafted British ales served directly to the tap room from serving tanks. If you forgot your bicycle or ski gear, head over to Fairhaven Bike & Ski (http://fairhavenbike.com). In addition to renting equipment, the store is also a great place to jump onto the Interurban Trail into Downtown Bellingham or over to the Larrabee State Park. Looking for a great brewery in town? Besides being voted Best Washington Brewery and Best IPA in the Northwest by Northwest Brewing News, at Boundary Bay Brewery (http://www.bbaybrewery.com) you can find live music, community events, and a great local crowd outside in the beer garden. It’s not just hiking, skiing, and biking, you can also find kayaking, sailing, and even whale watching within miles of Bellingham city limits. With so many year round activities, it’s easy to see why Bellingham is one of the best adventure locations in the United States. I was able to visit Bellingham courtesy of the Whatcom County Tourism Board, but the suggestions are based on my own opinions.

Waterproofing Standards

Demystifing the jumble of IEC 60529 Not all that long ago manufacturers simply labeled their items ‘waterproof ’. That label was awfully ambiguous. What exactly is waterproof? Rain? Lots of rain? Swimming? There is certainly a lot left to the imagination when interpreting the term ‘waterproof ’. The International Electrotechnical Commission’s (IEC) standard IEC 60529 aims to standardize testing of devices so you know exactly what a rated device can withstand. No doubt you have seen standards such as IPX7, but unless you know the code, that doesn’t help you much. Let’s take a look at the code format and what it means. All devices certified to IEC 60529 start with ‘IP’ to indicate the standard is being applied, and then there are two digits that follow. The first digit (0-6 or X) designates the device’s protection from solid objects. 0-4 indicate protection from items such as fingers and wires, but a rating of 5 or 6 may occasionally be used for consumer devices. A 5 indicates ‘dust protected’ meaning the device may let dust in but not in sufficient quantity to interfere with the proper operation. A 6 means ‘dust tight’ which indicates that the device is completely sealed to dust. Most consumer devices will generally carry an X, indicating the device was not tested for protection from solid objects. The second digit following the ‘IP’ describes the protection from water, this is what we’re really concerned about. The digits range from 0-8. Refer to the following table to deter-

mine to what degree your new device can withstand exposure to water: 0 - Device is not protected from water. 1 - Device is protected from vertically dripping water. 2 - Device is protected from dripping water when tilted up to 15˚ from it’s normal position. 3 - Device is protected from water falling as a spray at any angle up to 60˚ from it’s normal position. 4 - Device is protected from water splashing against the enclosure. 5 - Device is protected from water sprayed from jets at any angle 6 - Device is protected from water sprayed from high pressure jets at any angle. 7 - Device is protected from ingress of water in sufficient quantity to damage device when submerged in up to 1m of water. 8 - Device is protected from ingress of water during continuous submersion under conditions specified by manufacturer. Now you should know exactly what IPX7, a very common rating, means. If you run across a different IP rating just refer to the table above to determine the protection provided. There are other standards from various organizations such as the Department of Defense, National Electrical Manufactures Association, and Underwriters Laboratory just to name a few. The IP Code seems to be the standard most commonly employed by consumer device manufactures, and now you know how to decode the standard.

15

MSR Reactor, Jetboil Flash and Primus EtaSolo by Erick Pound

In recent years there has been a definite trend towards the use of integrated cook systems. These all-in-one systems combine the stove, windscreen, heat exchanger, and cook pot, and their efficiency and ease of use makes them extremely popular for backpackers moving to a lighter cook system as well as high altitude mountaineers looking for lightweight hangable kits. We compare three of these systems below. Both the Jetboil Flash and MSR Reactor have been around for a couple years. The Primus EtaSolo is brand new to the market and with that comes the obvious advantage of learning from other mistakes. We conducted a series of tests on all three systems side-by-side to eliminate as many variables as possible. Test 1: Each system was filled with 2 cups of water at 81° F. Time was recorded at rolling boil. Test 2: Each system was filled with 2 cups water at 34° F. Time was recorded at rolling boil. Test 3: Each system was filled with boiling water. Temperature was recorded in ten minute intervals for 30 minutes. Price Weight1 Capacity2 Hangable Test 1 Test 2 Test 3 (° F) 0’/10’/20’/30’ Bonus Test Pros

Cons

1 2

MSR Reactor $159.95 1 lb 1 5/8 oz 2L No 1’ 23” 2’ 09” 198/170/152/137 3’ 59” • Large capacity • Cool MSR logo when lit • No integrated lighter • Stove rattles inside pot in storage

Includes stove, pot, and burner Max fill is half of listed capacity


Bonus test: The MSR reactor was filled with 1 L of 34° ice water. Time was recorded at rolling boil. Note: Air temperature for all tests was 74° F Conclusions What stove you ultimately decide on will be a matter of your circumstances. Here’s our feeling. Groups: If you’re traveling with more than three people there is no comparison to the MSR Reactor. The Reactor boils water at a shockingly fast speed and the larger capacity will enable everyone to get a nice hot cup of tea. Solo or couples: Either the Jetboil Flash or Primus EtaSolo are great choices. If you plan to hang your stove often the sting of the Jetboil Flash hanging kit will be minimized and if you hang rarely the included Primus hanging kit is a welcome addition. Both stoves also offer lids used to drink from he pot and insulation to keep the contents warm. The ability to use other pots with the Primus EtaSolo may give it an edge for most people, however.

Jetboil Flash $99.95 15 3/8 oz 1L Optional (kit: 1 7/8 oz, $29.95) 1’ 52” 2’ 53” 198/177/160/148

Primus EtaSolo $99.95 15 5/8 oz 1L Yes (kit: 7/8 oz, included) 1’ 50” 2’ 41” 198/182/164/153

N/A • Very stable hanging kit • Feels very tight and well assembled • Must purchase hanging kit separately

N/A • Ability to use other pots with included pot stands (5/8 oz). • Included hanging kit • Primus fuel can be tough to find although most isobutane canisters will work • Rattles quite a bit

New and Noteworthy

Olympus Stylus Tough 8010 These days it seems everyone wants to share photos from their latest adventure with friends and family. Whether it’s Facebook, Flickr, or good, old-fashioned email, we love to brag about out adventures with pictures and videos. The Olympus makes capturing those images and videos a breeze. That said, the real value in the Stylus Tough 8010 is the beating it can withstand. Waterproof to 33 ft, shockproof to 6.6 ft., and freezeproof to 14˚ F, the Stylus Tough 8010 sports a 14 megapixel still camera and is capable of shooting 720p high-definition video. The tap controls allow you to navigate the menus while wearing gloves and the 5x optical zoom lets you get closer to the action. The one thing we would have liked to see on this camera is a GPS to allow for automatic geotagging. Next time... $399 www.olympus.com Petzl Tikka Plus2 The Tikka/Zipka line of headlamps from Petzl has been one of the most hyped line of products in recent memory. So, why all the fuss? We tested the Tikka Plus2 for several months and we’re happy to report that we believe the hype. The Tikka Plus2 features both white and red LEDs with continuous and strobe features in both colors. In addition an economy mode is available in white to save batteries. The Tikka Plus2 can burn as bright as 50 lumens, casting a beam up to 35 meters and will last up to 140 hours in the economy mode. The Tikka Plus2 is powered by 3 AAA batteries and will accept lithium for ultralight and cold weather excursions. The battery compartment is very easy to access while still maintaining an IPX4 (water resistant) rating so there is no worries about getting caught in a passing storm. A low battery indicator will illuminate when the lamp reaches 50% battery life and the beam will only illuminate 5 meters. The push button was easy enough to use even with gloves and there was not a single report of the lamp inadvertently being tuned on in a pack. The lamp remember what color LED was last used and returns to that color when turned on but we would like to see it return to the mode as well since we often use economy mode. $39.95 www.petzl.com

Apple iPad The new Apple iPad may just be one of the best things to happen to travelers in a long time. Adventure Travel often does not allow for taking of a lot of discretionary items and I often travel without much in the way of electronics but that is not always an option for everyone. If you blog on the road or are ‘backpacking’ Europe, the iPad may be just what you need. Offering the ability to read books, watch movies (even in HD!), surf the internet, and utilize some of the 225,000+ Apps, the iPad is the ideal choice for your entertainment and education venue on the trail. And because you can also download iWork (Apple’s suite of office software) it’s perfect for the travel blogger on the go. Although if you are looking to do a lot of content creation, we might suggest a low-profile bluetooth keyboard. If you need internet access away from a wi-fi hotspot a 3G version is also available and a camera kit that connects to the iPad via the dock adapter is available and allows you to read SD and CF cards. $499-$829 www.apple.com Starbucks VIA Instant Coffee and Instant Iced Coffee In October of 2009 Starbucks released its version of instant coffee, VIA. Backpackers, don’t let the term ‘instant’ scare you. VIA is created using a new way of ‘micro-grinding’ coffee that tastes as close to a cup of brewed joe as you’re likely to find in ‘instant’ form. Starbucks offers Colombian medium brew, Italian Roast (bold and delicious) and Decaf Italian Roast (why?), and as of June 2010, VIA Iced Coffee. VIA is truly the first instant coffee that can pass for coffe. And, the iced variety will even dissolve in cold water to produce a nice glass of pre-sweetened iced coffee. We could do with a little less sweetener in the iced variety (or perhaps an unsweetened variety??), but having struggled for so long to find good, portable coffee on the trail, we’re not going to hold this against Starbucks just yet. $5.95 (5 packets) www.starbucks.com

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Wetsuits for Surfing 101 Like most outdoor gear, wetsuits are becoming more sophisticated every season. Over the past 5 years, we have seen a dramatic increase in the quality and comfort of wetsuits available on the market. A select few manufacturers have been pushing the limits of wetsuit production with features such as built in lithium-battery powered heaters and limestone-based materials called ‘Geoprene’. There are many different cuts, sizes and thicknesses now available, so you are sure to find one that perfectly meets your needs as the seasons change. Models Fortunately, wetsuits now come in many different styles and we are no longer confined to either grabbing a spring suit or a full suit. We now have the options of sleeveless spring, sleeveless long john, short sleeve-long, long sleeve shortie and so on. These options allow consumers to pick a suit pseudo-customized to their geographic location (expected air and water temperature at any time during the year), changing weather patterns and personal preferences. For example, on warm days in early spring in the Northeast when the water temperature is between 50-60°F and the air temperature is 80°F, I choose to wear my sleeveless long john instead of my standard full suit. I’ll sacrifice a bit of warmth for the lower resistance and increased range of motion while paddling that a sleeveless suit offers. Do some research and see what best fits your personal comfort level and the climate of your location. Individual Fitting Because the function of a wetsuit is essentially to provide another layer of skin, manufacturers have adapted their sizing techniques to increase proper fitting to a range of body types. There are no longer simply Extra Small, Small, Medium, Large, etc. The newest fitting technique additionally includes Tall and Short. So, now you can have the option of Large, Large Short or Large Tall, depending on your build and height. It is always a good idea to go in your local surf shop to try on a few sizes before you make the investment. Stitched vs Glued Seams Currently, all wetsuits are seamed with either stitches or glue. If you are on a budget, the stitched option is more affordable, however, it’s not water tight. You will feel water reaching your skin the moment you begin to paddle out. Although, glued seams add around $50 to the price tag, they 18 Adventure Insider Magazine •September 2010

are much more effective at keeping water out of your suit, and therefore extending the length of your session. Thickness Wetsuits come in a range of thicknesses: 2/1, 3/2, 4/3, 5/4/3, and 6/5/4 to name a few. The first number indicates the thickness (in mm) around your core and the second number(s) indicate the thickness around your extremities. The third number (if applicable) indicates the thickness around joints to help maintain range of motion. In the Northeast a good 3/2 long suit and a pair of booties will keep you surfing through October and into November. Construction Materials This is one of the most important features to pay attention to when purchasing a wetsuit. Although, almost all wetsuits are constructed of neoprene, manufacturers have different processes for deign and manufacture. This leads to different benefits in addition to varying quality. Because of the difference in materials, two wetsuits can look almost identical but one is $200 more. The higher the quality of materials, the more flexible, lightweight and warm the suit will be. This where the customer must really decide on how much he/she wants to invest in a wetsuit. Product Warranty As with any large purchase, you want to protect your investment. Wetsuits are pulled and stretched in many directions, especially when taking on and off, which could lead to ripping. So, make sure to compare the manufactures’ warranties. Even after the warranty has expired, most companies will repair suits at a fair price, but plan ahead because it could take up to 6 weeks to have it returned.

Air Temp. (°F)

by Jonas Ahern

30 40 50 60 70 80

30 6/4 6/4 5/3 5/3 4/3

Water Temperature (°F) 40 50 60 70 6/4 5/3 5/3 6/4 5/3 5/3 4/3 5/3 4/3 4/3 3/2 4/3 4/3 3/2 3/2 4/3 3/2 3/2 2/1 4/3 3/2 2/1 2/1

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3/2 2/1

Seen, Read, and Heard Seen: 180° South Yvon Chouinard and Doug Tompkins are both well known in the climbing and conservation communities as is their 1968 journey to Patagonia. Both call the journey the best trip of their lives -- one that inspired not only the conservation mission of their personal lives but also served as inspiration for their companies. Yvon went on to found the clothing company Patagonia and Doug founded The North Face. 180° South follows filmmaker Jeff Johnson’s own trip to Patagonia inspired by Yvon and Doug’s 1968 journey. Jeff makes his way south via boat from Seattle, WA to Patagonia. As Yvon said in the movie “true adventure begins as soon as something goes wrong” and Jeff truly has himself an adventure. Jeff finally makes it to Patagonia where he meets up with Yvon and Doug. Jeff fails in his bid to climb Mt. Corcovado, the ultimate goal of his journey, due to the lack of ice and poor quality of the rock. It’s obvious, however, that Jeff has found more than he was looking for in his journey. The only critique of the movie comes in the form of a warning: be careful not to stay awake at night and dream of your expeditions and then call work and quit in the morning. This movie will make you want to do just that. -- Erick Pound www.180south.com Seen: The Season I had an extra few minutes today, so I was able to finish watching the final episode of The Season. If you’re not familiar with it, it’s a web series produced by Bryan Smith and Fitz Cahall that follows five adventurers throughout their individual ‘seasons’. You can find all 22 episodes online or on iTunes.

movies, and countless other adventure films. And although those types of movies certainly are wonderful (raise your hand if you eagerly anticipate the annual Warren Miller movie), they seem to blend together at times. They all feature great music, world class videography, and amazing athletes. The scale of those films is what throws me off though. The adventures portrayed don’t seem obtainable for a ‘regular’ person. The aspect of The Season that I found so great is just that... these adventures seem attainable. I appreciate that Smith & Cahall covered real people who love their sport and this brings a level of reality to the series. Every story they followed includes some issue that we all have to deal with from time to time: injuries, family life, jobs, and weddings just to name a few. Even though I’m not a world class snowboarder, extreme kayaker, or mountain bike racer – I could identify with the struggles each of these athletes had to deal with. My two favorite aspects of the series had to be the music and the videography. The producers did a great job at matching the music to each athlete’s personality, activity, and mood. Smith & Cahall were able to partner with some great artists to lay down a soundtrack that’s truly inspiring. The videography in this series is nothing short of spectacular. The producers were able to get shots of the athletes in their natural surroundings that capture the moment in a way you don’t often see. Some of my favorites included following a mountain biker through the woods and capturing kayakers battling unforgiving currents. The only thing I didn’t love about The Season was the narration. At times the words seemed forced, almost as if it wasn’t clear which words needed the most emphasis, so they were all stressed equally. Still, the story was told and the producers were able to get the point across. In the end it’s a very small part of the entire experience and doesn’t take away from the inspiration. I’m excited to see what these two great producers come up with next. Hopefully The Season has provided them a means to expand their production capability so we’ll see more great movies soon. The inspiration these two have provided me (and countless others) is out of this world! -- Shane Williams www.theseasontv.com

When I first saw the trailer of the The Season last year, I was intrigued. We’ve all seen the hardcore ski movies, climbing 19

Disabled Explorers

One man’s quest to allow those with disabilities to explore by Shane Williams his knowledge and love of the outdoors with other disabled In 1988, a vibrant young man who loved the outdoors had his life changed forever when a truck blew through a red light. Lance Blair was only 18 years old when he lost his left leg in this tragic accident. The doctors weren’t sure if Lance would make it through the weekend, much less ever walk again. 22 years later, not only does Lance walk, he drives one of the most amazing off road Lance and his FJ Cruiser machines I’ve seen. But I’m getting ahead of myself. In 2000 Lance decided to give up his thriving tobacco shops in order to pursue a different goal. He wanted to help people in the same way so many special people helped him after his accident. Lance decided to become a nurse. And that decision was just the beginning of Lance’s service to others. His next big leap came in 2006 when Toyota began selling their iconic FJ Cruiser.

persons. Disabled Explorers was born.

The first major trip Lance put together for Disabled Explorers was one for the record books: three FJ Cruisers, over 5,000 miles, and 24 days, all to explore the continental divide from Canada to Mexico. The kicker: trying to stay off road (off pavement) for as much of the trip as possible. That trip was a huge success and served to motivate Lance to expand Disabled Explorers even more. The FJ Cruisers worked well for the continental divide trip, but there was one major drawback to the fun little trucks: wheelchair access. In order for Lance to truly serve all disabled persons, he would need something a little larger, but still as capable. At the Overland Expo a couple of years ago, Lance found his answer: the Sportsmobile camper van. Of course, Disabled Explorers wouldn’t build just any old conversion van; this vehicle had to be able to go where few could -- it had to be stout, tough, equipped, and capable of handling nearly any situation. Enter the W.A.V.E. (Wheelchair Accessible Van for Expeditions).

The W.A.V.E. is a very well equipped Sportsmobile conversion van (based on a Ford full size van) with nearly every bell and Lance was immediately sold on whistle you can imagine. FJs. He loved the look, the capaThe Sportsmobile comes bility, and the possibilities. I first ‘standard’ with upgrades met Lance (virtually) on an online like a Dynatrac Pro Rock forum dedicated to FJ Cruisers. 60 axle, ARB Air Locker, It was there that I learned about heavy duty shocks and his passion for off-road drivDakar springs, a high The W.A.V.E. being put to good use ing, adventure, and expeditions. capacity fuel tank, and When I started FJC Magazine, I dozens of other enhancements. The real interesting bits of asked Lance if he’d be interested in a recurring feature called the W.A.V.E. though are the unique features for the dis“Expedition Wheeling” to cover thoughts and ideas related abled. The wheelchair lift; the hand controls; the automatic to long-range overland driving. He was more than happy to step; and all the other mobility enhancements make this the help out and I’m glad to say he’s still writing for us today. ideal vehicle for disabled exploring. Not long after Lance had his FJ (mostly) setup for vehicle dependent expeditions, he decided that he wanted to share 20 Adventure Insider Magazine •September 2010

Lance’s goal is to allow disabled persons to truly explore the outdoors like never before. We’re not talking about a guided tour where the participants sit in the back & enjoy the view (although they’re welcome to do so). Lance gives everyone the opportunity to drive the W.A.V.E. off road. It’s one thing to see the great outdoors, it’s another to experience it.

There are plenty of future plans for Disabled Explorers. There are at least two other chapters expected to open in the very near future (San Diego, CA and Pueblo, CO). Depending on donations, sponsorships, and grants, they’ll feature their own versions of the W.A.V.E. and of course they will have the same mission: To expose Disabled Explorers is as many disabled persons not some vast organias possible to the great zation with plenty of outdoors. Lance won’t be resources and a waitable to do it alone though, ing list of participants. he needs our help. If you’re Although, not surprisinterested in helping Lance ingly, there is a waiting continue and expand the list. The fact is Disabled Disabled Explorers misExplorers is supported Lance with his pet project, the W.A.V.E. sion, he’s setup a Paypal acalmost entirely by its count to accept donations, founder, Lance Blair. He works extra shifts at the hospital you can access the DE Donation Page here. Another great to fund weekend trips into the great outdoors. These trips way to help the cause is by spreading the word. If you’re on range from simple day trips, which allow a participant to get Facebook you can ‘Like’ the Disabled Explorers Page (http:// used to the W.A.V.E., to full multi-day expeditions. Particiwww.facebook.com/disabledexplorers) and tell your friends pation is completely free of charge. Lance is adamant that and family about this great program. Disabled Explorers and its supporters foot the bill for everything. And, although the W.A.V.E. does feature some equip- Thanks, Lance. And, keep exploring! ment and gear that’s been donated, the operation, maintenance, repair, and refitting bills fall straight into Lance’s lap, Shane will be covering some of Disabled Explorers’ advennot to mention the monthly payment for the $75,000 van. tures in upcoming issues of Adventure Insider, so stay tuned Of course, he’s more than happy to give to the project he for many amazing stories! started. For him, it’s all about helping others.

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