Sustainable Apparel in Europe - CBI - Centre for the Promotion of ...

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CBI Product Fact Sheet Sustainable apparel in Europe ‘Practical Market Insights for Your Product’ This product fact sheet provides information for developing country exporters planning to enter the European sustainable apparel market. Consumer demand for sustainably produced apparel is growing in Europe. In order to be competitive in this market, sustainable apparel should be design-led and fashionable. Consider targeting the mid-range segment where there is opportunity to build the market and stimulate a trickle-down effect to the lower segments. Focus on quality over price and promote the economic advantage of sustainable apparel over the moral advantage. Choose one sustainability issue close to your company core values to focus on. Product Definition Sustainable apparel, also known as eco-fashion, is a growing trend in which a product is designed, created and produced ethically and responsibly, with consideration to the environmental and social impact it may have throughout its total life span. There may be impact at any stage in the product life cycle: Figure 1: Stages in the Life Cycle of a Cotton T-Shirt

Image Source: BuddhaJeans.com

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CBI Prouct Fact Sheet Sustainable Apparel

The precise definition of ‘sustainable’ continues to evolve as consumer awareness increases and as the industry becomes more transparent. Current sustainability issues of focus in the different stages of the product life cycle in the apparel sector include: 

Materials o Pesticide, water, and energy use in the production of fibre crops, especially cotton o Processing fossil fuels into synthetic fibres (e.g. polyester or nylon) is resource intensive and products don’t degrade well o Fair conditions and prices for growers o Animal welfare



Fabric and Garment production o Water, and energy use o Use of toxic chemicals in pre-treatment (bleaching and washing) and to dye, print or apply finishing processes o Untreated waste from factories o Working conditions, worker safety, fair wages



Transport and Retail o Global, complex supply chains; products are transported longer distances and result in higher CO2 emissions o Unnecessary packaging



Consumption and Disposal o Unsustainable consumption o Energy use during clothing care; washing, drying and ironing o Increasing amounts of clothing is ending up in landfills

Principles of sustainability can be applied to all apparel category segments including outerwear, body wear, accessories and footwear. CONSIDERATIONS FOR ACTION: The sustainability of fibre and fabric production is of increasing concern to buyers as the industry attempts to address consumer concerns and compliance issues. DC exporters can choose to focus on one particular issue that is related to the company’s core values. Sustainability can be applied to niche products, or aspects can be integrated into a whole collection.

Product specifications Quality: Key aspects that relate to the quality of sustainable apparel include: 

Quality o o o o



Overall Construction – how well the garment has been put together o o o

of Fabric Comfortable – soft, non-irritating, good drape Durable – will allow the garment to last a long time Easy-care – wash and dry, no special care necessary Fabric content is appropriate for garment

Hems are even, stitching is straight Seams are strong and neatly sewn Hardware (e.g. zippers, clasps, buttons etc.) is durable, and firmly fastened to the fabric

For sustainable apparel, consumers expect medium to high quality products that are durable, so high quality and value for money rationales should be

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CBI Prouct Fact Sheet Sustainable Apparel

incorporated. The quality will depend on the segment in which the clothes will be sold, but superior quality is most important for a high-end market. Labelling: The following information will generally be found on the label in clothes:  Care symbols  Composition (Fibre content by percentage)  Size  Country of origin (Made in)  Eco-labels, such as labels for sustainable cotton, are also found on clothing labels, if applicable Materials: Factors to consider when choosing materials for sustainable apparel are: the renewability and source of fibre; the process of turning raw fibre into textiles; the working conditions of the people producing the materials; and the total carbon footprint of the material. Some of the more sustainable materials that can be used include: Natural fibres Natural fibres are found in nature and are not petroleum-based. Natural fibres can be categorized into two main groups: cellulose or plant fibre and protein or animal fibre. Designers continue to experiment with bamboo fibre, which absorbs greenhouse gases during its lifecycle and grows quickly and plentifully without pesticides. Cellulose Cotton is one of the most widely grown and chemical-intensive crops in the world. Conventionally grown cotton uses approximately 25% of the world’s insecticides and more than 10% of the world’s pesticides. Organic cotton is considered a more sustainable choice for fabric, as it is completely free of destructive toxic pesticides and chemical fertilizers; according to recent research, organic cotton products use 5–10% less energy, and persistent toxicity is reduced by 85% and eco-toxicity by 95%. Other cellulose fibres include: Jute, Flax, Hemp, Ramie, Abaca, Bamboo (used for viscose), Soy, Corn, Banana, Pineapple, Beechwood (used for rayon). Protein Wool, Silk, Angora, Camel, Alpaca, Llama, Vicuna, Cashmere, Mohair Manufactured From natural materials: Lyocell, Polylactic acid or PLA (Corn Polymer) Recycled fibres Recycled or reclaimed fibres are made from scraps of fabrics collected from clothing factories, which are processed back into short fibres for spinning into a new yarn. There are only a few facilities globally that are able to process the clippings. CONSIDERATIONS FOR ACTION: Seek out the best materials with the lowest social and environmental impact. Consider in your evaluation the use of renewable vs. non-renewable resources and land usage for fibres as well as water and energy usage and pollution or GHG emissions created in the manufacturing process. Colour and Design: Style reigns in the world of fashion. Design can play a key role in increasing the appeal of sustainable apparel to mainstream consumers by ensuring garments are desirable and stylish in addition to durable, and functional. Innovations are

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Photo example: Labelling

CBI Prouct Fact Sheet Sustainable Apparel

key to designing for sustainability; creative solutions to create flexible, longlasting garments will help drive market growth. Technology can also be harnessed. Waterless dying techniques and digital fabric printing are currently being used by some manufacturers to help reduce the environmental impact of textile dyeing and printing processes and becoming key selling features of the garments. CONSIDERATIONS FOR ACTION: Sustainability can be a positive design opportunity. Design for longevity by taking into account how the garment will be used and cared for and by incorporating the principles of seasonless or ‘slow’ design. Consider designing clothing for recycling or disassembly and monitor innovative production techniques and finishing processes. Know the impact of your design choices; consider using assessment tools such as the Higgs Index or the Rapid Design Module. DC Exporters are encouraged to research how the global fashion industry is using a design-led approach and focusing on innovations and style to promote sustainable apparel:  H&M’s Conscious collection  Stella McCartney’s eco-friendly products Packaging: Packaging needs to meet all EU requirements. These requirements aim to prevent packaging waste, to promote the reuse of packaging, and as such reduce the final disposal of such waste. Retailers are primarily responsible for the way products are packed for sale in shops and can ask suppliers to do this for them. Each individual garment is wrapped with plastic with a sticker providing information on brand, size, and kind of garment. Similar items could be packed in boxes.

Buyer Requirements Buyer requirements can be divided into (1) musts, requirements you must meet in order to enter the market, such as legal requirements, (2) common requirements, which are those most of your competitors have already implemented, in other words, the ones you need to comply with in order to keep up with the market, and (3) niche market requirements for specific segments. The buyer requirements listed below are relevant for the shapewear market. For more information on the buyer requirements for the Apparel sector, refer to the Apparel Sector Buyer Requirements section on the Market Intelligence Platform. Figure 1: Buyer Requirements

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CBI Prouct Fact Sheet Sustainable Apparel

Legal requirements are a must – product safety, health and informing consumer correctly crucial Here you can find requirements you must meet when marketing your products in the EU. Pay attention to the indications of which materials are concerned per requirement described. The following ‘musts’ apply to the products and uses listed here:    

Product safety – applicable to all products Chemicals – specific for textiles, leather and accessories Labelling – specific rules for textiles CITES – applicable to products made from wild plants and animals

Product safety The General Product Safety Directive basically states that all products marketed in the EU must be safe to use and forms a framework for all specific legislation established for specific products and issues. If no specific legal requirements have been established for your product and its uses, the General Product Safety Directive still applies. If there are specific requirements applicable to you, the General Product Safety Directive applies in addition, covering all other safety aspects which may not have been described specifically. CONSIDERATIONS FOR ACTION: Study the specific legal requirements listed here, and use your common sense to ensure the product does not tear, catch fire or cause any other danger in its normal use as this may not be outlined in specific legislation, but is covered in the General Product Safety Directive. You can read more about the General Product Safety Directive in the EU Export Helpdesk. Chemicals – restricted substances The EU has restricted a great number of chemicals in products that are marketed in the EU. These are listed in the so called REACH regulation (Regulation (EC) 1907/2006). Which chemicals are of relevance for you will depend on your specific product and material used. Chemicals relevant to the manufacture of shapewear include: Textiles  Azo dyes: if you dye your textile make sure you do not use any of the azo dyes that release any of the 22 aromatic amines which are prohibited. The EU legislation lists the aromatic amines, not the azo dyes which release them. The vast majority of azo dyes are therefore legally acceptable. Moreover, most reputable dye manufacturers only produce legally accepted dyes. However, border rejections and market withdrawals do show that azo dyes still is an issue that causes problems on the EU market. Flame retardants: in textile products that come into contact with the skin flame retardants are restricted. Often used flame retardants are Tris (2,3 dibromopropyl) phosphate (TRIS), Tris(aziridinyl)phosphineoxide (TEPA) and Polybromobiphenyles (PBB). Organotin compounds: if you use PVC in your products, know that organotin compounds are also restricted. Organotin compounds Dioctyltin (DOT) compounds and Dibutyltin (DBT) compounds can be used in textiles products (e.g. print on t-shirts and other garments). Their use is restricted as they can pose a risk to human health (i.e. suppress the immune system, are toxic to reproduction). 



Metal  Metal parts and accessories (e.g. clasps, zippers, jewellery, buttons) coming into direct and prolonged contact with the skin should not release more 0.5 μg/cm2 nickel per week. CONSIDERATIONS FOR ACTION: Familiarize yourself with the full list of restricted substances in products marketed in the EU by checking out restricted chemicals in textile products in the EU Export Helpdesk.

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CBI Prouct Fact Sheet Sustainable Apparel

In case of dyeing: Make sure your products do not contain any of the azo dyes which release the forbidden aromatic amines. This includes checking your suppliers. To test your products, use the official tests. You can find the tests on the CEN website: o CEN Textiles – Methods for the determination of certain aromatic amines derived from azo-colourants – Part 1: Detection of the use of certain azocolourants accessible without extraction. Reference: EN 14362:2003 / EN 14362-1:2012. Follow new developments in the field of flame retardants, as new alternatives are being developed. You can do so for instance through the European Flame Retardants Association (EFRA). Some EU countries have additional or stricter national restrictions on chemicals substances used in apparel. For example, formaldehyde in textiles (Austria, Germany, Finland and the Netherlands) and PCP (Austria, Denmark, Germany, the Netherlands) and disperse dyes in textiles (Germany). To find out more contact the helpdesk of the Europeans Chemicals Agency (ECHA) or of European national agencies. Labelling: Textile products must be labelled with the fibre composition and using the fibre names in accordance with EU rules. The aim of this common set of labeling rules is to ensure that the consumer knows what he is buying. CONSIDERATIONS FOR ACTION: Know your own product and study the EU labelling rules to find out how it should be labelled. Find out more about textile labeling rules in the EU Export Helpdesk. CITES- products from wild plants and animals If you produce products (partially) made from wild plants or animals, you need to make sure that these do not fall under the restrictions of the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES). CONSIDERATIONS FOR ACTION: You can read more about the legislation in CITES in the EU Export Helpdesk and check out the links to find out whether or not CITES is relevant to you. Full overview of requirements for apparel For an overview of all legal requirements set for your product, see the EU Export Helpdesk where you can identify your product code to get a list of requirements applicable. Common requirements: care labelling, sizing standards, and good sustainability performance commonly asked Care labelling: The GINETEX care labelling system is widely used in all EU Member States. GINTEX uses highly recognizable symbols to recommend garment care. According to GINETEX standards, labels should include: o general care and warnings o washing o drying o ironing o professional textile care (dry-cleaning) CONSIDERATIONS FOR ACTION: It is important to note that the symbols are protected as trademarks in many countries and using them is only permitted by GINETEX under contract. For more information on GINETEX labels, see the GINETEX website. Sizing standards. The sizing of clothes sold on the EU market tends to vary from country to country and even from store to store. The textile industry is urging the EU to implement legislation on standard sizing but there is no agreement on a standard as of yet.

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CBI Prouct Fact Sheet Sustainable Apparel

CONSIDERATIONS FOR ACTION: As long there is no EU-wide legislation on sizing, it is recommended to use a recognised standard on clothes sizing. Sustainability performance Sustainability is one of the ways for companies to differentiate themselves, and the means of offering sustainable products are numerous, ranging from labour issues to choice of sustainable materials to certification and use of labels (see ‘Niche’). In particular, social aspects like basic labour rights are major issues in the garments industry. Several initiatives have gained quite some ground in (particularly) western European countries. The Ethical Trading Initiative, ETI is used by large buyers in the UK. Retailers/importers and producers also participate in the Business Social Compliance Initiative (BSCI) and the Fair Wear Foundation which have a strong presence in the other European markets. Implementing a management system such as ISO14000 (environmental aspects), OHSAS 18001 (occupational health and safety) or SA 8000 (social conditions) is a way to address sustainability and possibly gain a competitive advantage. Research or discuss with your buyer to determine whether this is of interest. CONSIDERATIONS FOR ACTION: Look into the possibilities of improving your sustainability performance. This may not always include immediate certification or application of a label (read the information in ‘Niche’), but it is important to familiarize yourself with issues. In case you are targeting the UK market familiarise yourself with the ETI base code to check what ETI members require from their suppliers. See CBI’s tailored intelligence on the market for sustainable apparel in the UK. When targeting other EU markets it might be interesting to assess your company’s current performance by doing a selfassessment, which you can find on the BSCI website. Be aware that many of the environmental and social sustainability issues take place at upstream in your supply chain (factory, collector, farm). Think about a way to assure responsible business at the premises of your suppliers. For more information about SA8000 and other standards please turn to the ITC’s Standards Map where you can search “textiles” Niche requirements: certified sustainable products While sustainability is gaining ground, the actual use of certification is still a niche in this sector. Fairtrade products (textiles) Among the niche initiatives, Fair Trade is the best known with a relatively large market presence (including several sectors) and available for textiles products. Eco-labelled apparels There are several different eco-labels used for apparel and as this is a means of showing sustainability, there is an interest from buyers. The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and Naturland (Germany) are examples of textile processing standard for organic fibres; OEKO-TEX and Bluesign stand for no use of hazardous chemicals in textiles; the EU Ecolabel and also look to chemicals environmentally-friendly options. When doing business in Germany the Blauer Engel is important eco-label. When targeting north European countries look into the Nordic Swan. CONSIDERATIONS FOR ACTION: Check the Fair Trade Standards for small fibre crop producer organisations and consult ITC’s Standards Map for more information on the Fair Trade label. If you are looking to focus on the ethical niche market, you need to find business partners. This could range from large companies with sustainable product lines as well as specialized apparel buyers. Familiarizing yourself with the initiatives and how they work is an initial step in finding out whether or not your company would be a good match. For more alternatives, see ITC’s Standards Map.

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CBI Prouct Fact Sheet Sustainable Apparel

Trade and Macro-Economic Statistics Figure 2: EU28 key economic indicators and forecasts in % 2013

Forecast 2014

Forecast 2015

GDP Growth

0.1

1.6

2.0

Inflation

1.5

1.0

1.5

10.8

10.5

10.1

Unemployment

Source: European Commission, 2014

Economic recovery is spreading. After a lengthy, double-dip recession, there are finally signs that a more lasting recovery is now taking place and spreading across the EU. Growth has turned positive in a large majority of Member States over the course of last year and the outlook has improved even in the more vulnerable ones. The five largest euro zone economies (The Netherlands, Spain, Italy, France and Germany) all saw an increase in economic sentiment, mostly fuelled by buoyant consumer confidence. The improvement in sentiment over recent months suggests that consumers are set to spend more freely, which bodes well for all apparel sales, including sustainable apparel. But spending on sustainable apparel may be conservative. Due to the efforts taken to minimise harm in the growth, manufacturing, and shipping of the products, sustainable fashion can be more expensive than clothing produced by conventional methods. While some consumers may be more willing to pay a premium for a well-designed sustainable fashion piece, many consumers will still be wary of making investment purchases. CONSIDERATIONS FOR ACTION: Many Western European apparel markets tend to grow broadly in line with GDP; as such, improving macro trends in Europe may signal opportunities for DC exporters of sustainable apparel. The strongest large economies, Germany and the UK represent the best opportunity for DC exporters. With its growing economies, the Baltic region is another key market to target. Even in the world of fashion, economic interests prevail and price is still the dominant purchasing factor at all levels of the value chain. However, there are ways to address sustainability and still make money:   

Consider targeting the mid range segment for sustainable apparel, where there is a gap in the market and much more of a priority on quality and fit than on fashion and price Focus on competitive pricing and niche marketing. Promote the economic advantage of sustainable apparel over the moral advantage. Integrate sustainability into your marketing budget and Profit &Loss statement (eg. allocate 25c more to each article).

Trade Trade data for the apparel sector also applies to sustainable apparel. Although domestic demand is slowing down in Europe, the region still represents an important trade, production and creative hub with access to other growing regions, such as the US and the BRIC countries. China is the world's primary source of apparel, but as wages continue to rise, other emerging countries, including Bangladesh, Indonesia and Cambodia, are expanding their presence as key manufacturing regions. For further trade data on Apparel sector, please consult the CBI Tradewatch for Apparel document.

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CBI Prouct Fact Sheet Sustainable Apparel

Trends Consumer attitudes about the materials and ingredients in products they buy are rapidly changing, shifting toward products that are ethically or sustainably sourced. A conservative estimate of the market for environmentally friendly clothing and textile products is comparable to the size of the market for organic cotton: €883.8 million. Market drivers for sustainable apparel are: 1. 2. 3.

Increasing consumer awareness of sustainability issues Retailer involvement in initiatives for sustainable practises Regulatory initiatives on national and EU level to promote sustainable initiatives

A combination of these drivers can be seen in key trends: 

Production-improvement Programs. For example, in Bangladesh, the IFC and the Netherlands Government launched a program called Water PaCT: Partnership for Clean Textile. This program aims to help the local textile and garment industry address the long-term sustainability and competitiveness of their factories by reducing their water footprint through cleaner production practices, improved water resource management awareness and systems, and investments in technologies that significantly reduce water consumption and effluent. Solidaridad, and global apparel brands H&M, C&A and G-Star are other partners in the program.

CONSIDERATIONS FOR ACTION: DC exporters are encouraged to research the Bangladesh Water PaCT and explore any similar programs locally. Consumers are increasingly interested in the underlying product story, where it came from, and who made it. Consider creating marketing materials that provide such details, and encourage the consumer to make a connection with their purchase. Highlight any sustainability initiatives at your facilities. 

Industry focus on Consumer education. Consumers are a crucial driver for greater sustainability in the apparel sector. Although price remains a key purchasing factor, there is increasing evidence that customers care more about how their clothes are made. Because many sustainability impacts occur at the usage and disposal phase of the product lifecycle, the apparel industry in Europe is starting to educate the consumers on how their own habits can make a difference: o

Making conscious fashion choices. Consumers in all segments are being encouraged to rethink their wardrobes: buy better, buy less is the current sentiment in Europe. This means investing in a few key pieces and wearing them until the product lifecycle ends. This applies to all apparel subsectors.

o

Reducing Waste. Increasing amounts of clothing is ending up in landfills rather than being reused or recycled. The apparel industry is beginning to recognize that raising consumer awareness of the impact of clothing disposal and making recycling as easy as possible are critical. For example, H&M has recently launched a global garment collection campaign. The in-store recycling program aims to reduce waste and give old products a new life; eventually, H&M hopes to close the loop on textiles so nothing goes to waste. Government support for waste reduction is increasing. In late 2013, The UK introduced a Sustainable Clothing Action Plan; many leading apparel retailers pledged to measure and report their waste, water, and carbon footprints of clothing, and

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CBI Prouct Fact Sheet Sustainable Apparel

reduce their environmental impact by 2020. Recently, the European Commission announced the intention to shift to a more circular economy where “re-use, repair and recycling is the norm and where waste is a concept of the past”. o

Labelling. Garment Care is another current area of industry focus, as washing, drying and ironing often accounts for the most significant use of energy in the clothing lifecycle. At this year’s Copenhagen Fashion Summit, Stella McCartney launched Clevercare, H&M’s new garment-labeling system that encourages consumers to reduce climate impact, effort and money by caring for their garments properly. Sustainable care techniques advised include: don’t wash clothes too often; wash in lower temperatures; hang-dry when possible; and only iron if necessary.

CONSIDERATIONS FOR ACTION: Research innovative consumeroriented programs such as H&M’s Garment Collection program and Clever Care system in order to understand the front-of-mind issues in sustainability in the European apparel industry. Monitor brands participating in sustainable ventures and events. For example, Designers Remix and Phillipa K, showcased sustainable fashion at this year’s Copenhagen summit. Consider ways that your company can optimize waste management. For example: o Producing on demand through crowdsourcing (or eventually, perhaps 3D production) o Consider incorporating the principles of ‘seasonless design’; this means focusing on classic designs that can be worn any time of the year so that clothes can be re-used over several fashion cycles o Design for disassembly, like in the auto sector - consider how to turn the garment into new products o Consider using biodegradable or recyclable fibers. Nike, Puma, H&M, GStar and prAna have recently been named the top five largest users of recycled polyester o Investigate technological innovations in the industry. Recent initiatives include Raw for the Oceans, G-Star’s collaboration with Pharrell Willams to create a denim collection made from waste plastic scooped up from the ocean 

Standardization will be key to further development of the sustainable apparel market. Some companies are trying to work together to create standards, but it is a difficult and slow process. This may be because the industry is too fragmented, and competes on these very standards. Governmental intervention is possible. Nationally, Germany may be the exception in setting environmental standards. The European Commission is currently exploring conservation and labelling requirements, but this may take many years.

CONSIDERATIONS FOR ACTION: For supplying countries, it’s difficult to follow CSR rules of every different company –– there is a cost issue to get so many different certificates, which are indistinguishable by the outsider.

Market Channels and Segments Market Channels and Segments for apparel for sustainable apparel are comparable to those of the overall apparel sector. CONSIDERATIONS FOR ACTION: Develop clear market positioning before setting up distribution channels for the market. Some retailers are more appealing to younger consumers and some target older demographics. For highend segments, product quality must be in line with customer expectations.

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CBI Prouct Fact Sheet Sustainable Apparel

Minimum delivery volumes and terms of payment vary greatly and will need to be requested on an individual basis. For more information, see CBI Market Channels and Segments for Apparel.

Price Due to the efforts taken to minimise harm in the growth, manufacturing, and shipping of the products, sustainable fashion can be more expensive than clothing produced by conventional methods. Typically, for apparel, retail price = 4.5 to 6 times the FOB price. Figure 7: Stages in the trade channel in which a margin is applied Raw materials

Processing

Shipping

Import & Processing

Field of Competition Although the field of competition for sustainable apparel is somewhat comparable to that of the overall apparel market, there are fewer competitors offering sustainable apparel, so there is a lower level of competition. Most sustainable brands are still niche brands or high-end brands. But increasingly, large and well-known middle range brands are offering sustainably made products at affordable price points. For more information on the field of competition, please refer to the Apparel Sector Field of Competition document on the CBI website. CONSIDERATIONS FOR ACTION: A well-marketed offering of products will be key to succeeding in the sustainable apparel market. To increase the competitive advantage of your product offering, differentiate products with style and design. With moderate market-entry barriers, importers and wholesalers are the best way for small-to medium-size enterprises to bring products into the target country; contact them directly via the representative and terms will be negotiated. For more information, see CBI Field of Competition for Apparel.

Useful sources    

Sustainable Apparel Coalition http://www.apparelcoalition.org/ Made-by http://www.made-by.org/ Ethical Fashion Forum www.ethicalfashionforum.com NICE - www.nordicfashionassociation.com

Tradeshows Copenhagen Fashion Summit http://www.copenhagenfashionsummit.com/ More information CBI market information: Promising EU export markets. EU Expanding Exports Helpdesk - http://exporthelp.europa.eu - go to ‘trade statistics’. Eurostat - http://epp.eurostat.ec.europa.eu/newxtweb - statistical database of the EU. Several queries are possible. For trade, choose ‘EU27 Trade Since 1995 By CN8’. Use the guide ‘Understanding Eurostat: Quick guide to easy comext’ (http://epp.eurostat.ec.europa.eu/newxtweb/assets/User_guide_Easy_Comext_2009051 3.pdf) for instructions. International Trade Statistics - http://www.trademap.org – you have to register

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CBI Prouct Fact Sheet Sustainable Apparel

This survey was compiled for CBI by Global Intelligence Alliance in collaboration with CBI sector expert Dhyana van der Pols Disclaimer CBI market information tools: http://www.cbi.eu/disclaimer

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