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Braai the beloved
L I V E I N T E RV I E W
WHAT ARE THE RULES OF A GOOD BRAAI?
country resh from his stint filming MasterChef 2017, chef Reuben Riffel tells Eugene Yiga that he loves a good braai as much as any South African.
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The Bo-Kaap has so much history. I just love that culture. I come from a small town where the community is very important. In my opinion, the Bo-Kaap managed to keep that tradition going to this day. It’s great to just go there when I need my spices. I can go into the shop, walk around, get what I want and just enjoy the atmosphere. It’s such a special place for me.
WHAT ROLE DID FOOD PLAY EARLY IN YOUR LIFE?
WHAT IS THE SIGNIFICANCE OF A BRAAI FOR YOU?
When I was growing up, the food was very important. But it wasn’t just about the food, it was about the people that cooked the food and their approach to the people that they were cooking for.
It’s about more than what goes onto the fire, it’s everything around that. A braai is about the experience and connecting with others. We all have to eat – yes, that’s important – but a braai is about so much more than just sustenance. It’s about community and being yourself. People just let their hair down around the braai, making it the perfect opportunity to get to know each other better.
WHAT’S YOUR FOOD PHILOSOPHY AS A CHEF?
For me, a good philosophy is to keep things simple. I like familiarity. That’s why I think it’s so important to stir up feelings of nostalgia, of ‘this is something I grew up with and I’ve tasted it somewhere before’, in anyone you’re are preparing a meal for. At my restaurants, Reuben’s, we never overcomplicate things. We don’t try to have a hundred flavours on every plate. That’s not our food. For us to stand out, we’ve got to really use what’s local – things that are part of our heritage. If there’s an opportunity for us to bring in some local spice or a distinct combination, we’ll always explore that ‘familiar’ option.
EDGARS CLUB SEPTEMBER 2017
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SPEAKING OF SPICES, WHAT’S YOUR RELATIONSHIP WITH BO-KAAP?
TEXT: EUGENE YIGA, IMAGES: BRAAI BY REUBEN RIFFEL (QUIVERTREE PUBLICATIONS) & SUPPLIED
With Heritage Day (aka National Braai Day) on 24 September, chef Reuben Riffel examines the significance of SA’s love of grilled meat
There’s always only one guy that’s in charge of the braai – remember the old adage of too many cooks spoiling the broth. The ‘braai master’ is normally quite proud of what they’ve put together, and they want people to experience it as they intend. Some people can get quite sensitive about it too … I’m not like that, but it happens!
WHAT MAKES FOOD COOKED ON A BRAAI SPECIAL?
I think cooking on a fire gives food a great flavour. Whether it’s the fat that sort of melts and gets that smoky flavour or the deep, rich browning, it enhances the food so much. For me, the anticipation is a big part of the enjoyment of food. And a braai achieves this so well: you can see it, you can smell it, and you can almost imagine tasting it. And by the time it comes to your plate, you just want to start digging in there and then.
WHAT ROLE DOES BRAAIING PLAY IN THE LIVES OF SOUTH AFRICANS?
There’s so much that South Africa has to offer in terms of food and people and personalities. And when people gather around a braai, there are very deep discussions – no one solves an entire country’s trickiest problems better than a crowd around the braai. I guess that’s what makes it fun. A braai is almost something sacred and
WHAT ROLE DOES FOOD PLAY IN BRINGING PEOPLE TOGETHER?
Food does what we all need more of, it creates opportunities for the community to gather. I think that the braai brings us together because we are at our most comfortable with each other when we can find common ground. Like our love of good food, for example. We should always look for things that unite us, like being together around a braai fire.
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‘A braai is about so much more than just sustenance. It’s about community and being yourself’ people can take it very seriously. It’s just a very social thing that I think every South African can relate to. WHY DO YOU THINK BRAAIING IS SUCH AN IMPORTANT PART OF SOUTH AFRICAN LIFE?
Whenever there’s some kind of occasion, there’s always a braai. Yes, it’s great food, but I think people love it for the togetherness. Every braai is a celebration. And everyone gets involved: we cook together and everyone has this sense of duty to do their part, whether it’s preparing a salad or jumping in there and cooking. It’s also very spontaneous.
Turn over to page 66 for a selection of braai recipes from Reuben’s new book, Braai – Reuben on Fire (Quivertree Publications).
EDGARSCLUB.CO.ZA
2017/07/31 9:04 AM
