the lookbook - Eco-Age

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The Songket is a woven fabric that is like brocade from Brunei, ... She has since dedicated all her time and work to sup
T H E LO O K B O O K

CONTENTS 3

India x Tuvalu

4

Malaysia

5

Bangladesh

6

Sri Lanka

7

Brunei Darussalam x Singapore

8

Pakistan

9

South Africa x Lesotho

10

Kenya x Zambia + Kenya

11

Rwanda x Uganda

12

Botswana x Swaziland

13

Cameroon x United Republic Of Tanzania

14

Nigeria x Malawi

15

Sierra Leone x Ghana + The Gambia

16

Mozambique x Mauritius

17

Samoa x Papua New Guinea

18

Tonga x Nauru

19

Fiji x Vanuatu + The Seychelles

20

New Zealand x Cook Islands

21

Australia x Solomon Islands

22

Cyprus x Kiribati

23

UK

24

Malta x India

25

UK x India

26

Jamaica x Belize

27

Canada x Namibia

28

St Kitts and Nevis x Grenada

29

St Vincent and The Grenadines x Saint Lucia

30

Trinidad and Tobago x Dominica

31

The Bahamas x Barbados

32

Guyana x Antigua And Barbuda

33

Canada

BE HN O DESIGNER INDIA TUVALU

FAFI NE NI U TAO I AOTE AROA ARTISANS behno’s mission is to redefine and bring awareness to the craft and character of “Made in India” and to set a new standard for manufacturing in India’s garment trade that revolutionizes the way garment workers are treated, viewed, and employed.

The Fafine Niutao i Aotearoa from Niutao Island is a Collective of Tuvalu women. They work together producing Kolose: Tuvaluan crochet, which take form in tops, dresses, petticoats and are distinctive features on wall hangings.

Dress made from remnant blue silk organza fabric pieces embellished with Swarovski upcycled crystals

Dress embellished with one hundred square, black panels of Kolose, a traditional crochet from Tuvalu. It took five women one month to create the panels, using an intensive crochet technique

Kolose is a traditional form of crochet, illustrating the adoption and continual development of art practices whilst highlighting the supporting structure of women as knowledge holders. Often gifted, the brightly coloured and free-styled patterns of Kolose portray the love for one’s community, culture and island.

Coat with Indian mirrorwork and border and grid beadwork in repurposed wool

Mirror-work, otherwise known as shisha, can be traced back to 13th century Persia, brought to India via tradesmen and travelers. Indian artisans have excelled at mirror-work for centuries, using mirrors alongside other embroidery techniques to create intricate embellished fabrics.

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B ERNARD CHAN DRAN DESIGNER

MALAYSIA

I N HOUSE ARTISAN

Bernard Chandran was the first non-European designer to win both the coveted Silk Cut Young Designers Award and the Open European contest for Look of the Year 2000. In 2007, he was conferred Dato by the Sultan of Pahang for his outstanding contributions to fashion design.

Oriental embellishments created with wool and fabric offcuts A newly mastered geometrical version of the ‘kerawang’, traditional malay cut-work

Fine ‘songket’ (royal Malay brocade)

Kerawang is a style of traditional embroidery that involves cutting away the base-cloth to create a lace effect.

The Songket is a woven fabric that is like brocade from Brunei, Indonesia and Malaysia. It is hand-woven in silk or cotton and intricately patterned with gold or silver metallic threads to create a shimmering effect.

4

BI BI RUSSE L L DESIGNER

BANGLADESH

I N HOUSE ARTISAN Bibi Russell opened the fashion house Bibi Productions in 1995, fusing indigenous Bengali cultural elements into her line. As of 2004, her company employed 35,000 weavers in rural Bangladesh. Bibi strongly believes that fashion can create sustainable development and a better livelihood for craftspeople. She started the ‘Fashion for Development’ initiative in 1996 at the Unesco headquarters in Paris with the support of then Director General Federico Mayor. She has since dedicated all her time and work to support craftspeople around the world and in her native Bangladesh.

Skirt, jacket, scarf and matching accessories made from Jamdani woven cloth

Jamdani is a vividly patterned, sheer cotton fabric, traditionally woven on a handloom by craftspeople and apprentices around Dhaka. Jamdani textiles combine intricacy of design with muted or vibrant colours

JAMDANI woven cloth is unique to Bangladesh, and considered an ‘Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity’ by UNESCO. It’s vividly patterned, sheer cotton fabric, traditionally woven on a handloom by craftspeople and apprentices around Dhaka is a labour-intensive form of weaving. Weaving is thriving today due to the fabric’s popularity for making saris, the principal dress of Bengali women at home and abroad. The Jamdani sari is a symbol of identity, dignity and self-recognition and provides wearers with a sense of cultural identity and social cohesion.

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BUD DHI BATIKS DESIGNER

SRI LANKA

I N HOUSE ARTISAN

Darshi Keerthisena is the Creative Director at Buddhi Batiks, a leading proponent of the batik craft in Sri Lanka. She was awarded the British Council International Young Fashion Entrepreneur of the Year 2008.

Hand-pleated and batik printed Seacell™ silk

Peace (Ahimsa) silk lining

Laser cut Piñatex sequins

Obi belt made from Piñatex, a pineapple fibre based leather alternative

Peace (Ahimsa) silk is reeled from empty cocoons, meaning that silkworms are left to hatch into moths before the silk is spun from the cocoons in a way similar to spinning wool. SeaCell™ is a fibre made from seaweed, produced in a closed loop system meaning that no chemicals are released as waste.

Multiple detachable zippers

Sri Lankan hand-drawn, hand-dyed batik, created by experienced batik artisans at the Buddhi Batiks workshop in the village of Koswadiya in North Western Sri Lanka

The look is embellished with Swarovski upcycled crystals

Piñatex provides additional income for farmers while creating a vibrant new industry for pineapple growing countries. Piñatex fibres are the by-product of the pineapple harvest. No extra land, water, fertilizers or pesticides are required to produce them.

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NA FORRE R DESIGNER BRUNEI SINGAPORE

LUL LY SE L B ARTISANS

Based in tropical Brunei Darussalam, Na Forrér is a demi-couture designer brand that creates an array of exclusive clothing that is timeless, chic, bold and cool.

Lully Selb was launched in 2015, synergizing the strengths of both co-founders. Through the hand illustrated prints; the explorative, bold, playful strokes and patterns give the collection a distinctive yet personal touch.

100% wool crepe

The Brunei emblem Panji-Panji is featured in the custom textile design, handpainted on Euca silk

Bruneian Songket, a traditional material woven out of silk and cotton gold and silver threads

Bruneian Songket is a Malay Songket, a woven fabric that is like brocade from Brunei, Indonesia and Malaysia. It is hand-woven in silk or cotton and intricately patterned with gold or silver metallic threads to create a shimmering effect.

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RI ZWAN BE YG DESIGNER

PAKISTAN

i n house ARTISAN

Rizwan Beyg entered the fashion world almost accidentally in the 1980s. Beyg has been creating garments ever since, as one of the most respected names in the Pakistani fashion community, retaining the essence of traditional bridalwear whilst challenging the concept. In 2013, Rizwan created the first collection inspired by ‘Truck Art’ - the style of design found on Pakistan’s rickshaws, inspired by nature, and painted by rural artists.

Print designed by original truck artists

Hand embroidered by the village women of Bhawalpur

Digitally printed silk

The rickshaw and truck art of Pakistan is an art form comes from rural / indigenous artists who use flora and fauna as inspiration and is now recognised globally as typical to Pakistan.

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CLI VE RUN DL E DESIGNER SOUTH AFRICA LESOTHO

H OUSE OF THE THAN A ARTISAN Clive Rundle blends intricate structures and layered patterns to create unparalleled visual depth. Clive’s creations are well-known both locally and abroad. Clive has shown at the SAFW since its inception in 1997, and in all the major fashion capitals. Lucilla Booyzen of SAFW facilitated the exchange.

House of Thethana is a textile design business founded in 2006. Inspired by Lesotho’s culture and dynamic landscape, its mission is to become a global textile design brand contributing to the economic development of Lesotho.

Wool and collar accessory

Wool and organza coat

Swarovski upcycled crystals

Wool and organza shorts Custom textile design by House of Thethana screen printed on silk using water based dyes

The process of screen printing involves a mesh which is used to transfer ink onto a material, except in areas made impermeable to the ink by a blocking stencil. A blade is moved across the screen to fill the open mesh apertures with ink, and a reverse stroke then causes the screen to touch and print the material.

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DEEPA DOSAJA DESIGNER KENYA ZAMBIA | KENYA

M UMWA CRA F TS ASSO C I AT I O N

ART ISA N FASH ION

ARTISANS

ARTISANS

Deepa Dosaja started her own business in 1991 and focused on Haute Couture using luxurious natural materials, hand painting, and embroidery. Deepa’s designs have been instrumental in changing the perception of Kenyan fashion.

Organic silk produced in Kenya

The Mumwa Crafts Association aims to enable the community to generate income through traditional crafts, and to improve standards of living in local communities. Artisan Fashion is a social enterprise engaging Kenyan artisans, providing international market access, promoting social value.

Maasai beadwork features on the neckline and belt

Recycled leather scraps

Woollen shawl

Embellished with Swarovski upcycled crystals

Maasai beads are created by The Maasai, an ethnic group inhabiting Southern Kenya and Northern Tanzania. Beaded pieces created by the women of the tribe accompany the lifecycle of each member of the Maasai tribe, indicating age, social and marital status.

Handmade Zambian palm leaf purse with recycled brass chain featuring ‘Deepa Flowers’ crafted from sustainable cow horn and recycled brass and leather

Cow horn is a widely available material that can be ‘recycled’ and used for bag construction and embellishment. Horn carving enables artisans to make a living, preserving important skills and techniques.

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H AUTE BASO DESIGNER RWANDA UGANDA

IHATO ARTISANS

Haute Baso, founded in 2014, recognises the potential of young women by offering them training and employment. Their mission is to translate the passion for art and design into a vehicle for positive change.

Handmade Ugandan beads made from recycled paper, which is then cut into triangular shapes, rolled and glued, and finished with varnish

Ihato sells hand-crafted jewellery and accessories made from ethnic materials. Ihato aims to foster growth and innovation in local communities, by empowering women through teaching skills to earn an income from creating fashion accessories.

Top made from a locally sourced mosquito net, naturally dyed grey using fermented cassava

Lightweight wool underskirt Skirt and top embellished with upcycled beads from traditional accessories such as necklaces and bracelets

Mosquito nets are essential as Malaria is a prevalent problem in many countries. Conventional insecticide treated mosquito nets last between 6 to 12 months therefore thousands of mosquito nets are disposed of annually to protect people from Malaria.

Handmade recycled paper beads are made from crushed sawdust and charcoal, missed with wood glue then shaped into different sizes. After drying the beads are drilled with a hole, sanded and varnished.

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IZAURA DESIGNER BOTSWANA SWAZILAND

QUA ZI DE SIGN ARTISANS

iZaura is an haute couture line that celebrates women of all shapes, sizes and ages. The brands Creative Director, Mothusi Lesolle, co-founded Botswana’s first ever Fashion Week.

Quazi Design stands for sustainable change and social impact. Based in Swaziland, all products are hand made by local women, empowering them through skill sharing and a living wage.

White linen represents purity

Black beads by Quazi Design to symbolize power in the culture of the Swaziland people

Red beads made by Quazi Design are to raise awareness of HIV/AIDS

Derived from the flax plant, linen is the strongest of all natural fibers. It is grown with little or no chemical fertilizer, and all parts of the plant can be used after harvesting to create multiple by-products so nothing is wasted.

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KI BON E N N E W YORK DESIGNER CAMEROON TANZANIA

M AKORY MGEC E ARTISAN Kibonen’s work is inspired by traditional Cameroonian garments, West African fabrics and New York’s vibrant fashion scene. Kibonen is famous for contemporizing one of the most delicate and intricate hand woven traditional garments of Cameroon western highlands region, the toghu.

Woolmark certified wool

Toghu embroidery from Cameroon

The Toghu cloth is heavy and bold, worn traditionally by rulers of Northwest Cameroon

The Maasai beads are created by The Maasai, an ethnic group inhabiting Southern Kenya and Northern Tanzania. Beaded pieces created by the women of the tribe accompany the lifecycle of each member of the Maasai tribe, indicating age, social and marital status.

Mgece Makory is a Tanzanian fashion designer, inspired by the culture and heritage of Tanzania. Mgece uses different materials like khanga, batik, kitenge, Masai fabrics, and intricate Maasai beading to create modern interpretations of traditional Tanzanian crafts.

The red Maasai beads stand for bravery and unity, representing Africa’s potential to drive positive global change

Maasai beads from Tanzania

The Toghu is a traditional attire of Northwestern Cameroon, traditionally worn by members of royalty, and also during weddings, festivals, and other major celebrations.

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N KWO DESIGNER NIGERIA MALAWI

JO E L SUYA ARTISAN

Nkwo Onwuka launched her brand in 2012 in Nigeria. Nkwo regularly collaborates with artisans across Africa and aims to educate and employ small scale manufacturers/producers, enabling the growth of sustainable businesses.

Joel Suya is a Malawian wood carver, who taught himself to sand and polish, eventually being taught to chisel, file and carve by an established craftsman. From selling his crafts through others, Joel is now growing his own independent business.

Hand-loomed asooke cloth Organic British wool

Zero-waste pattern cutting

Mirror embellishments made from waste glass

Malawian traditions have inspired this look, titled ‘Spirit of the Dance’, featuring 12 miniature masks hand carved in Malawi

The look is embellished with Swarovski upcycled crystals

Asooke is a hand-loomed cloth woven by a group of women based in Kogi state in central Nigeria, according to a traditional craft of the Yoruba people. Traditionally, the weaving was done by men on horizontal looms, making long narrow strips of cloth which were sewn together to form larger pieces or garments. However, in certain places, women did the weaving on vertical broadlooms which produced wider panels and it was once believed that the pieces produced by women had spiritual and medicinal powers through which the wearer could be blessed healed or protected.

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SYDNE Y -DAV IE S DESIGNER SIERRA LEONE GHANA | THE GAMBIA

BI G DRE AD KE N TE ARTISANS

SYDNEY-DAVIES is an independent luxury fashion brand curated by Sierra Leonean born designer Euphemia-Ann. The label has made steady progress in the fashion industry as an innovative ethical brand.

Big Dread Kente is a kente weaving company in Ghana, founded in 2015 and run by husband and wife team, Gideon and Julia. Ousman Toure designed this jewellery in collaboration with Continent Clothing. Osman comes from a long line of jewellers, and lives and works in Sukuta, The Gambia. His work is often influenced by the Maasai Tribe.

Handwoven kente cloth produced by Big Dread Kente, Ghana

Handmade necklace and bracelet crafted in The Gambia from glass beads and wooden Malawian trade beads

The Ewe people from southern Ghana have been wearing Kente, a vibrantly striped, woven fabric for centuries. Originally only worn by royalty, with special meaning woven through the horizontal and vertical patterns, today Kente is worn by all, often on special occasions like weddings.

Natural raffia-fringed hand-woven kente cloth midi skirt with recyclable

Oversized bardot wrap jacket made from hand-woven gold kente cloth, hand-woven country cloth, and 100% wool

Bralet top embellished with Swarovski upcycled crystals in queen bee motifs

Raffia is a natural fibre derived from the raffia palm tree, which is native to Madagascar but now grows throughout tropical Africa. The fibre can be used to create textiles, mats, baskets, hats and twine.

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ZI N ZI D E BROUW E R DESIGNER MOZAMBIQUE MAURITIUS

BEAUTI FU L LOCAL HAN DS ARTISANS Zinzi de Brouwer’s design aesthetic draws from her multicultural background. She has returned to Mozambique, to enable empowerment to people, especially women, through craftsmanship, heritage and design by building bridges between cultures through shared ethical values.

Fabric in a traditional pattern from Mozambique that resembles the grid pattern the Maasai utilise

Beautiful Local Hands is an association of 60 artisans from underprivileged backgrounds. The artisans work using different materials namely textiles, coconut, bamboo, clay, recyclable materials in order to create unique products.

Handmade necklace and arm bracelets made in Mauritius from polished coconut shells

The coconut tree is an abundant sight in regions with warm climates. This tree provides a source of food, but also an ongoing source of material for handcrafting. Coconut shells can be polished, cut, and shaped to create beautiful jewellery.

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AFA AH LOO DESIGNER SAMOA PAPUA NEW GUINEA

Afa Ah Loo was born in the Independent state of Samoa, where he grew up and spent most of his life. He was first introduced to fashion and sewing by his late mother Amioga, who he refers to as a very kind, happy and stylish woman. He has been a fashion designer for several years now and is passionate about making women feel beautiful, and also confident in their own skin.

Papua New Guinea curved necklace of braided rope and shells

Embellished with handmade and painted flowers, made from recycled paper and upcycled foam

Printed floral fabric from the archives

Linen

Afa is featured in this look, a traditional Samoan rope made out of coconut husk.

Traditional Papua New Guinea jewellery was originally made using Neolithic tools such as obsidian and sharks teeth, using locally found natural materials including shells, stone, feathers, plant fibres, bone, teeth, wood, and animal shells. Glass beads and other materials were introduced when Pacific cultures started trading with Europeans.

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B OU FON UA DESIGNER TONGA NAURU

RENDI N A E DWARDS ARTISAN

Bou’s designs feature traditionally inspired hand painted prints placed onto rich, regal palettes of cotton and silk. Bou draws inspiration from her Tongan roots and ensures that each piece carries her signature motifs.

Raw silk lining

Hand-crafted necklace from Nauru

Rendina Edwards is a jewellery maker from the island of Nauru, a tiny island country in Micronesia, northeast of Australia.

Traditional Feta’aki fabric made from natural fibres, from Tonga

Feta’aki (Ngatu) has been the treasure of Tonga’s ancestors and today it is still one of the islands’ prestige, traditional and cultural wealth. Feta’aki when it has been printed is used in gift-giving and other rituals. It is a sign of respect but significantly, shows the cultural wealth of Tonga’s people.

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H UPFELD H OE RDE R DE SIGN S DESIGNER FIJI VANUATU | SEYCHELLES

TOUSONG KAL SONG - L I ZA GARO - MARI E RO ROU | ROL AN & A N N A pay et ARTISANS Hupfeld’s specialties are in the area of casual resort-wear and haute couture. His designs promote a strong sense of the Pacific, incorporating his culture, identity and heritage. He utilises authentic and natural fibres as well as creating designs in vibrant colours that reflect the colours and the diversity of the Pacific.

The white/cream tapa is depicted with the significant hand printed Sand Print design of Vanuatu

Jewellery made from broken shells from the Seychelles

Designers Tousong Kalsong, Liza Garo and Marie Rorou, each live on Pentecost and maintain cultural decoration used in ceremonies for centuries. Husband and wife, Rolan and Anna are craftspeople from the Seychelles. All their products are handmade, using broken, found and dead shells from the area.

Skirt made from Fijian Masi (a Fijian traditional Tapa fabric), embellished with recycled Fijian shells and mother of pearl shells cut into geometric shapes

Corset made from Vanuatu fibre (mat), Fijian magimagi (coconut fibre), bark cloth and mother of pearl shells

Appliqued Masi flowers embellish the look

Beadwork from Tousong, uses shells previously reserved for ceremonies such as marriage, death, circumcision and chiefly rankings. Liza worked on necklaces fashioned from seeds and sand according to a custom known as Bwati Pani while Marie wove leaves and grasses to make a white mat.

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KAREN WAL KE R DESIGNER NEW ZEALAND COOK ISLANDS

KUKI AI RANI C RE ATIV E MAMAS ARTISANS

Karen Walker’s eccentrically elegant style has established a stellar international following for her ready-to-wear, eyewear, jewellery, bags and fragrance. Karen’s signature energy and optimism define the label.

Claret coloured Tivaivai embroidered flowers

The flowers are iconic flora of the Māmās’ island home and include gardenia, jasmine, orchid, fruit salad plant, hibiscus, fringed hibiscus, red ginger, frangipani and the Cook Islands national flower, Tiare Māori. Added to these are the beloved Karen Walker daisies

Karen Walker has collaborated with Kuki Airani Creative Mamas, Tivaevae craftspeople from the Cook Islands, now residing in New Zealand. Traditional tivaevae take years to make. A design is first created and each woman in the sewing group has a specific part of the pattern to complete.

Dusty pink Woolmark certified wool flannel

Twelve different traditional stitch styles

Tivaevae is a part-patchwork, part-embroidery tradition that is intrinsic to the culture of the Cook Islands. Depicting designs that represent age-old legends, sea life and flowers, and often taking many years to complete, these bedspreads are rarely bought or sold. Instead they are given as special gifts, demonstrating love and patience, between family members or close friends.

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KITX DESIGNER AUSTRALIA SOLOMON ISLANDS

PASI FI K C RE ATION S ARTISANS

KITX consciously sources and produces luxury womenswear with an eye to ensuring supply chains are both ethical, and environmentally sound. KITX seeks to preserve and nurture artisanal tradition and protect our planet’s natural resources, through conscious sourcing of every material and component.

The look is embellished with trochus shell beads. These beads can be used as embellishment and also form of currency

Pasifik Creations, a business started by Alfred Samasoni that connects overseas buyers to grass root artisans producing crafts and arts from across the Pacific Islands, connected Kitx to three Solomon Island artisans.

The bodice and skirt are created using GOTS certified organic crepe wool sourced from a Woolmark certified mill

Traditional straw skirt handmade on the Solomon Islands

Shell beads can be used for adornments but also certain shells are used as a form of currency. These beads have been made by hand for centuries. In Malaita Province (part of the Solomon Islands) shell money remains a fundamental part of their culture, used ceremonially in dispute resolution and weddings. The craft of making these beads is usually done by women, but you can find the men involved in collecting and polishing the shells as well. The colours are achieved through the type of shell being used and brought out further in a drying process where the most difficult colors to get (and therefore the most valuable) being red and orange.

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AFRODITI HE RA DESIGNER CYPRUS KIRIBATI

KIRIBATI H AN DI C RAF TS ASSOC IATION ARTISANS

Afroditi Hera founded her eponymous brand in 2001. The Cypriot designer chose to base her brand on her home island. Tapping into the collective imagination, she creates loose, flowing dresses filled with the antique essence of immaculate togas.

Kiribati Handicraft was established in 2013 as an NGO, and is an open body for artisans and producers. The organisation focuses on creating products using traditions that have been passed down for generations.

Kaftan with blue silk underlay featuring bespoke textile design by Afroditi Hera

Traditional ornamental beading created by artisans in Kiribati using grass, paper and shells This look can be worn in three ways using buttons

Made up of 33 atolls and reefs including Christmas Island, in the central Pacific, Kiribati is dispersed across 1.3 million square miles. The indigenous handicrafts of the Pacific are manifold, with Kiribati specializing in ornamental beadwork and grass-weaving.

22

B URBE RRY DESIGNER

UK

Founded in 1856, Burberry is a global luxury fashion house with a distinctive British identity. Heritage, craftsmanship and innovation are at the heart of the Burberry story, as embodied by the iconic trench coat, which over the years has been continuously reinterpreted, be it through fabric, colours or lengths.

Woollen trousers made with Oeko-Tex certified yarns

Oeko-Tex certified Australian Merino wool trench coat Knitwear made with non-muelsed wool

Australian Merino wool is an entirely natural fibre grown year-round. Grazing on extensive grassland terrain, Merino sheep in Australia are free-range animals. Australia is home to about 71 million sheep, with close to 3/4 of Australia’s flock being Merino. The remainder is composed of crossbred and other breeds of sheep.

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CH ARL E S & RON DESIGNER MALTA INDIA

KHUSHBOO ARTISAN

Charles & Ron is a contemporary lifestyle brand, creating highend clothing and bags with a distinct Mediterranean flair and a dedication to superior quality. Maltese culture is an integral part of the Charles & Ron design ethic.

Khushboo helps to run a charity for homeless children, through a café / library set up by Amin Sheikh. The pair, who were previously street children themselves, use the café as a way to help feed and educate the kids.

Blouse made of black Maltese lace and wool crepe

Maltese hand-tooled leather belt

Embellished with beaded appliqué in the shapes of traditional Maltese door knockers

The appliqué beading has been hand-crafted in India

Maltese lace is a style of guipure bobbin lace made in Malta using silk thread. It is worked as a continuous width on a tall, thin, upright lace pillow. Black Maltese lace is becoming very rare, as less and less artisans work with black silk thread as it’s very tiring on the eyes to work this type of lace in black.

The Woolmark Company is the global authority on wool, highlighting wool’s position as the ultimate natural fibre and premier ingredient in luxury apparel. The Woolmark logo is one of the world’s most recognised and respected brands, providing assurance of the highest quality, and representing pioneering excellence and innovation from farm through to finished product.

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STELL A MCCARTN E Y DESIGNER UK INDIA

OSHADI ARTISAN Stella McCartney is a keen advocate for fair trade and female empowerment. The designer and Oshadi share an aligned value of environmental principles and social business practices, it is through this and their commitment to bringing employment to weavers of Southern India that has brought forth this collaboration.

Oshadi is a contemporary womenswear brand that bridges the traditional craft heritage of India. The collection is crafted using cruelty-free, natural and organic fibres, in ancient hand weaving, ikat and natural dyeing techniques by local highly skilled craftspeople.

Handwoven peace (ahimsa) silk made in India

Coloured using ancient natural dyeing techniques

Peace (Ahimsa) silk is reeled from empty cocoons, meaning that silkworms are left to hatch into moths before the silk is spun from the cocoons in a way similar to spinning wool.

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DREN N AL UN A DESIGNER JAMAICA BELIZE

Mayabags ARTISAN

Arlene L. Martin has had a passion for design and sewing from as far back as she can remember. She actively took up the craft as a hobby in her late teens and over the years, sought to improve her garment construction technique, eventually creating drennaLUNA.

Fabric for the jacket and bodice has been created from the selvedge offcuts of the fabric that was used for these flowers, by sewing rows of selvage together for a subtly manipulated textile

A selvedge is a ‘self-finished’ edge of fabric, manufactured in a way to prevent fraying and unravelling. The selvedge of fabric is usually discarded, but drennaLUNA has developed a technique to use this waste to create beautifully textured new fabrics.

MayaBags is a handmade, design-driven accessories collection. The motivation behind the business was to save the vanishing Maya handwork skills, and to empower Maya women as income producers in their households, to encourage them to send their girls to high school along with their boys.

The skirt is made of individually cut flowers featuring 6 petals, folded together in 3 stages and attached to the core fabric of the garment

“uh tok” basket purse made from a coiled plant fiber (Jippi Jappa) basket frame, a Maya hand-woven fabric, Dupion silk, and a coconut button and macramé loop closure

Jippi Jappa Baskets are a traditional craft of the Maya of Southern Belize, originally developed to preserve foodstuff and perishable items. The Jippi Jappa is a wild rainforest plant, resembling a palm. Closed leaves are used to create light baskets, and darker baskets are made from open leaves. The leaf fibres are separated and then boiled, washed, and dried in the sun, before weaving.

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LUC IAN MATIS DESIGNER CANADA NAMIBIA

OMBA ARTS TRUST ARTISAN

Lucian Matis is a Toronto-based womenswear designer whose eponymous label features elegant daywear and eveningwear with couture-quality embellishment. Matis has been nominated twice for the CAFAs Womenswear Designer of the Year award.

Namibian roll necklace made from ostrich eggshells that are broken in to small pieces, clipped into circles and pierced with a hole. The beads have been heated to create different colours

Founded in 1991, Omba Arts Trust is an NGO that supports sustainable livelihoods in marginalized communities, through craft development and marketing. To create the Fashion Exchange look, the Trust looked to the San community, living in the eastern region of Namibia, living on either government managed ‘Resettlement farms’ or in ‘Communal conservancy’ areas.

Wool fabric

Embellished with Swarovski upcycled crystals

Ostrich eggshell beads are an ancient San tradition, and were still worn by San communities up to the 1970s. This type of jewellery production has seen a resurgence in the last 20 years, providing an important livelihood option for these remote communities.

The Swarovski upcycle program gives a new life to crystals that weren’t used in previous projects. Swarovski focuses on Conscious Luxury, developing responsibly produced embellishments.

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IRIDESCENT FASHION DESIGNER

ST KITTS AND NEVIS

GRENADA

N EISH A L A TOUCHE ARTISAN

Iridescent was established by seventeen-year-olds Keeanna Ible and Shavaniece Lake in October 2016. Iridescent designs and creates casually elegant and formal outfits for women, designed to exude confidence and fierceness.

Neisha La Touche is a Grenadian born designer, stylist and artist, renowned for her effortless designs in women’s resort wear, readyto-wear and carnival costume design.

Look inspired by Caribbean carnivals

Bodice embellished with Swarovski upcycled crystals Backpiece made with bi-product and naturally moulted features

The Swarovski upcycle program gives a new life to crystals that weren’t used in previous projects. Swarovski focuses on Conscious Luxury, developing responsibly produced embellishments.

These feathers have been sourced from a company which provides naturally moulted and bi-product feathers.

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FASH ION IS PAY N E DESIGNER ST VINCENT AND THE GRENADINES

SAINT LUCIA

DESI GN S BY N ADIA ARTISAN

Jeremy Payne is a multidisciplinary artist and designer and a native of Saint Vincent and the Grenadines. Jeremy studied Art & Design and in 2011, he founded his own brand ‘Fashion Is PAYNE.’

Nadia Jabour is a jewellery designer. She creates pieces using a mixture of regional seeds, coconut, sea glass leather and much more, and also owns a regional craft shop in St. Lucia featuring over 80 artisans.

Hemp and organic cotton jersey, tie-dyed using local organic turmeric

Custom jewellery hand-crafted by St. Lucian jeweller Nadia Jabour from copper and coconut shell

Hand-painted motifs symbolize local vincentian petroglyphs (rock art / rock carvings)

Tie-dye is a resist dyeing method, used to create patterns on fabric by folding, twisting, pleating or crumpling fabric before tying it and submerging in dye. Turmeric (locally referred to as saffron) is used by Vincentians daily for many purposes such as medicine, as well as in food and beverage preparation.

Hemp grows almost anywhere and requires no pesticides or fertiliser. The plant is good both for the soil and the atmosphere. The potential for hemp is vast. The fibres are long and very strong, making the most beautiful fabric and paper.

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ME IL IN G DESIGNER TRINIDAD AND TOBAGO

DOMINICA

vanessa w in ston ARTISAN

For the last thirty years, Meiling has dedicated herself to her brand Meiling, Trinidad’s favourite fashion brand, and has won many accolades over the years culminating in the Chaconia Silver Medal, a national award given to the designer for her long and meritorious service to Trinidad & Tobago’s business sector.

New Beginning Gifts and Leathers was set up by Vanessa Winston to preserve the craft industry in Dominica through training programs to teach craft from natural and recycled materials and promoting other local crafts.

Handembroidered organdie and silk

Trousers made from upcycled Indian fabric

Leather tooling is the process of giving a three-dimensional appearance to leather, through cutting and stamping the surface.

Hand-tooled leather corset belt featuring butterfly motif, made in Dominica

Hand weaving takes a weaver one day to create 5 meters of woven peace silk using a hand loom, compared to hundreds that can be produced by machine.

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TH EODORE E LY E T T DESIGNER THE BAHAMAS BARBADOS

CATH ERI N E ROCHE FORD ARTISAN

Theodore Elyett marries fine fabrications with expert tailoring and sophisticated details. From fluid silhouettes – an ode to the designer’s Caribbean roots.

The bodice print depicts the leaves of palm trees, representing the environment

The silhouette of the gown is derived from the fluid waters surrounding the island

Catherine Rocheford is a textile and accessories designer working with Sea Island cotton, Barbados Blackbelly sheep skin, as well as with local mahogany and metal, specifically sterling silver, brass and copper.

The skirt print is a combination of sea shells, turtles and sand dollars, native to the region, representing local aquatic life

Jewellery made in Barbados using intricate beading and hammered sterling silver to reflect textile motifs

Embellished with intricate Swarovski upcycled crystal embroidery

The silk screen printing process involves a mesh which is used to transfer ink onto a material, except in areas made impermeable to the ink by a blocking stencil. A blade is moved across the screen to fill the open mesh apertures with ink, and a reverse stroke then causes the screen to touch and print the material.

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SH ASHA DE SIGN S DESIGNER GUYANA ANTIGUA AND BARBUDA

L AUN E SHA BARN E S ARTISAN

Keisha Edwards is the owner and Creative Director of Shasha Designs. She launched her career in fashion by participating in the Guyana Fashion Week in 2008.

Bodice is made with hand dyed Madras, palm leaves and fibres woven into a plain weave

The neck of the dress is made with Burlap and covered with seeds from a shac shac tree

A recent graduate with a Bachelor of Fine Arts in Fashion Design from the Caribbean Academy of Fashion Design under the University of Trinidad and Tobago, Launesha has actively pursued her passion in the creative sphere for years.

Inspired by Antigua and Barbuda National Costume, fusing elements of Arawak tradition and National wear

The skirt is made with brown cotton, buck beads and dyed burlap

Tie-dyed using natural onion skin and beetroot

Tibiseri straw (a fibre extracted from a Mauritia flexuosa found in Guyana) was woven with the palm leaves from Antigua (date palm) to create the plain weave used along the bodice of the dress as well as the front panel of the skirt The bodice is made with hand dyed Madras which is Antigua and Barbuda’s national fabric for their National costume.

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TANYA TAY LOR DESIGNER

CANADA

Canadian Designer, Tanya Taylor, brings modern, feminine shapes to life through an artful use of colour and original prints. Each print begins as a hand-painting done by the Tanya Taylor team in their New York design studio. After collaborating with Aidy Bryant and Glamour Magazine on a red carpet look in 2017, Tanya recognized the need for a feminine and joyful voice in the plus size market and the brand is now proud to offer extended sizing each season.

Printed silk created using hand tie-dye technique Silk printed bodice encrusted with Swarovski upcycled crystals Multicoloured pailette embellished skirt

The Swarovski upcycle program gives a new life to crystals that weren’t used in previous projects. Swarovski focuses on Conscious Luxury, developing responsibly produced embellishments.

Season after season, fabric remnants and surplus are discarded. Using precious archive fabrics allows designers to give a new lease of life to materials which might otherwise be forgotten about or disposed of.

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CON TACT Chloe Page [email protected] 020 8995 1070 www.eco-age.com