a savoury Malay platter: crumbed haddock, kebabs, savoury pie, dhaltjies and samosas served with chilli blatjang (chutne
travel leisure | lifestyle
CAPE TOWN
The past and present of PortsWood A hotel with history, filled with modern comforts The PortsWood, at Cape Town’s V&A Waterfront, has everything you’d expect from a luxury hotel. But, unlike many a five-star behemoth without a soul, it also has a history that goes back over 100 years. The restaurant occupies a section of the original Breakwater Prison, constructed in 1860
28 01 18
This isn’t something I thought about when I checked in on a sweltering afternoon. Perhaps that’s understandable. The first thing I did after check-in was take a walk next door to The Commodore, one of two dozen sister properties in the Legacy Hotels group, for a modern experience. Here, I found the Casuarina Wellness Centre, where I enjoyed the manicure, pedicure, facial and massage that make up the ‘Urban Man’ treatment. I was so wrapped up in the two-and-a-half-hour process – literally, in the case of my hands after their first paraffin dip – that the past was the last thing on my mind. But the sense of history struck me when I sauntered back to the PortsWood and noticed the details I missed earlier. At the centre of the lobby is an ancient well, with scattered coins at the bottom for those brave enough to lean over and take a look through the glass. On top of this sits a zodiac globe that made me think of the orb in the opening credits of Game of Thrones. There was also a sense of nautical exploration from days gone by. On the walls were maps from a time when early sailors gave Africa a different shape, while models of famous ships sat anchored behind glass. The maritime theme continued up to the third floor. Walking to the end of the ‘Business Deck’ – boat imprints on the carpet and ship paintings on the walls – made me feel like I was on a cruise. The hotel was recently refurbished, and I spent the night in the SS Statendam suite. I later learned on Wikipedia that the name refers to one of four ships from Holland America Line, a company that dates
back to 1873 and played a key part in transporting hundreds of thousands of immigrants from the Netherlands to the US. But there was nothing ancient about the room, overlooking the courtyard’s waterfall pool, with a perfect view of the Waterfront’s wheel. With its clean lines and shades of white, grey and blue, the suite made me feel like I’d stepped onto a luxury yacht.
Delicious detention It was like the feeling I had when I came down to dinner in the Quarterdeck Restaurant – wooden ceilings and antique suitcases above the bar. On the walls were cartoon sketches of early Cape governors Simon van der Stel, Ryk Tulbagh, Lord Charles Somerset and Sir George Grey. There were even original menus from ships, dating back to 1929 (including something called ‘Yarmouth Bloater’ as part of supper), and more
recent mementos from the Queen Elizabeth 2. The most fascinating piece of the hotel’s history is darker than that. Staring out of the window of my suite, I noticed the same kind of stone walls I’d seen at Fort Hare University, where my family and I toured one of the student dorms that used to be a jail. It turns out that the restaurant occupies a section of the original Breakwater Prison, constructed in 1860 and known as the Good Conduct Ward. Now owned by the University of Cape Town’s Graduate School of Business, the prison was built exclusively for ‘European’ convicts as a rehabilitation centre. ‘NonEuropean’ prisoners remained in the Old Convict Station for a period of time as cheap labour for the quarry and harbour. They were also rented out to locals as house servants and gardeners. The Breakwater Convict Station was declared a military prison in 1882. This allowed military
offenders from ships and shore stations convicted for civil disobedience to be committed for hard labour. But in 1898, the Cape Review published Life on The Breakwater, which highlighted poor prison standards and cruelty at the convict station. This article led to an inquiry into prison regulations and standards. The Good Conduct Ward and what remained of the chapel on the Sea Point side, and a section of the ward on the harbour side, were altered and plastered. This ‘new’ building became one of a group of buildings
How to get there
Refer to flight schedules on page 91 for flights departing from Cape Town. www.flyairlink.com
29 01 18
travel leisure | lifestyle
CAPE TOWN
Contact details • PortsWood Hotel: 021 418 3281, portswood@ legacyhotels.com or www.legacyhotels.co.za • Casuarina Wellness Centre: 021 419 3090, info@ casuarinawellness. co.za or www. casuarinawellness.co.za
30 01 18
known collectively as The Moorings. (The houses in the lane behind the Quarterdeck were built for prison staff.) There is also evidence that the prison had been converted to a military store by 1910. And according to early records, the convict station – including the infamous ‘treadmill’ torture device – was demolished between 1930 and 1938. But parts of the original wall remain in the restaurant, with prison bars ‘guarding’ the buffet. Even the restaurant’s menu seems to take inspiration from history. While they serve a monthly ‘spitbraai’ lunch (on the first Sunday) and a monthly ‘potjiekos’ dinner (on the last Saturday), the speciality is Cape Malay cuisine. Rather than choose, I opted for the Chef’s Feast, a three-course meal featuring the bestselling items from head chef Craig Paulse. That meant starting with a savoury Malay platter: crumbed haddock, kebabs,
savoury pie, dhaltjies and samosas served with chilli blatjang (chutney), cucumber mint yogurt, and tomato and onion sambals. The main course lets you choose four items from a tempting array. I went with mixed seafood curry, chicken rendang, pumpkin bredie and bobotie. It wasn’t long before the waitress brought over a feast that I realised is meant for sharing between at least two people. I did the sensible thing and tried a bit of everything before enjoying the baked vanilla cheesecake with berry compote for dessert. More sensibly, I skipped the tempting coffee and koeksister and chose to sip on a gin and tonic instead. As much as it’s great to look back on the past and enjoy the present, sometimes you have to think about the future! Text | Eugene Yiga Photography | Supplied
